Twenty years in the Philippines [1819-1839]

TWENTY YEARS

IN

THE PHILIPPINES

TRANSLATED FKOM TIIK FKEXCH OK

PAUL P. DE LA GIP^ONIERE,

I'TILCVALISR OF THE ORDER OF THE LEGION OK HONOR.

Rjviscd and Extended by the Author, expressly for this Edition.

Portrait of the Author.

NEW YORK:

HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,

329 & 331 PEARL STREET,

FRANKLIN SQUARE.

1854.

CONTENTS.

Ulnstrations ••••••• «-• 11

Preface t 13

CHAPTER L

A Family Sketch— My Youthful Days— I Study for the Medical Pro
fession — Obtain a Naval Surgeon's Diploma — Early Voyages
—Sail for Manilla in the Cultivateur— Adventurous Habits —
Cholera and Massacre at Manilla and Cavite— Captain Drouant's
Piescue — Personal Dangers and Timely Escapes— How Business
may make Friends of one's Enemies — An Unprincipled Cap
tain—Tranquillity restored at Manilla — Pleasures of the Chase
— The Cultivateur sails without me — First Embarrassments . ?7

CHAPTER II.

Description of Manilla— The two Towns— Gaiety of Binondoc —
Dances — Gaming — Beauty of the Women — Their Fascinating
Costume— Male Costume— The Military Town— Personal Ad
ventures—My First Patient — His Generous Confidence— Com
mencement of my Practice— The Artificial Eye— Brilliant
Success — The Charming Widow — Auspicious Introduction —
My Marriage— Treachery and Fate of Iturbide— Our Loss of
Fortune — Return to France postponed «<2

VJ CONTENTS.

Pap?

CHAPTER III.

Continued Prosperity in Practice — Attempted Political Revolution

— Desperate Street Engagement — Subjugation of the In
surgents — The Emperor of a Day — Dreadful Executions —
Illness and Insanity of my Wife — Her Recovery and Relapse

— Removal to the Country — Beneficial Results — Dangerous
Neighbours — Repentant Banditti — Fortunate Escape — The
Anonymous Friend — A Confiding Wife — Her Final Recovery,

and our Domestic Happiness restored ........ 4'/

CHAPTER IV.

Hunting the Stag — Indian Mode of Chasing the Wild Buffalo : its
Ferocity — Dangerous Sport — Capture of a Buffalo—Narrow
Escape of an Indian Hunter — Return to Manilla — Injustice of
the Governor — My Resignation of Office — I Purchase Property
at Jala-Jala — Retire from Manilla to take Possession of my
Domains — Chinese Legend — Festival of St. Nicholas — Quina-
boutasan — Description of Jala-Jala — Interview with a Bandit
Chief — Formation of Guard — Preparations for Building—
Visit to Manilla, and Return to Jala-Jala — Completion of my
House — Reception of my Wife by the Natives — The Govern
ment of the Philippines — Character of the Tagaloc Indians —
Unmerited Chastisement — A (Vr*»fe Appointed — Our Labours
at Civilisation — My Hall of Justice — Buffalo Hunting
Expedition . ...... 62

CHAPTER V.

Description of my House at Jala- Jala— Storms, Gales, and Earth
quakes—Reforming the Banditti— Card-playing— Tagal Cock-
lighting — Skirmishes with Robbers — Courage of my Wife —

CONTENTS. vil

.'age

Our Domestic Happiness — Visits from Europeans — Their
Astonishment at our Civilisation — Visit to a Sick Friend at
Manilla — Tour through the Provinces of the Ilocos and Pan-
gasman Indians — My Reception by the Tinguians — Their
Appearance and Habits — Manners and Customs — Indian Fett
ut Laganguilan y Madalag — Horrible Ceremonies to Cele
brate a V ictory — Songs and Dances— Our Night-watch — We
Explore our Cabin — Discovery of a Secret Well — A Tomb of
the Tinguian Indians 95

CHAPTER VI.

Visit to Manabo — Conversation with my Guide — Eeligion of the
Tinguians — Their Marriage Ceremony — Funereal Rites —
Mode of Warfare — I take leave of the Tinguians — Journey to
the Igorrots — Description of them — Their Dwellings — A
Fortunate Escape — Alila and the Bandits — Recollections of
Home — A Majestic Fig-tree — Superstition of Alila — Inter
view with an Igorrot — The Human Hand — Nocturnal Adven
ture — Consternation of Alila — Probable Origin of the Tinguians
and Igorrots 117

CHAPTER VII.

I return to Jala-Jala — An Excursion on the Lake — Relempago's
Narrative — Pie-organisation of my Government — A Letter from
my Brother Henry — His Arrival — He joins me in the Manage
ment of my Plantations — Cajoui, the Bandit : Anten-Anten
— Indian Superstition — A Combat with the Bandit — His
Death — A Piratical Descent — My Lieutenant is Wounded — 1
extract the Ball, and cure him 139

Viii CONTENTS.

K&

CHAPTER VIII.

Death of my Brother Robert — Our Party at Jala- Jala — Illness and
Last Moments of my Friend Bermigan — Recovery and Depar-
i ture for France of Lafond — Joachim Balthazard : his Eccen
tricity — Tremendous Gale of Wind — Narrow Escape in
Crossing the Lake— Safe Return to Jala- Jala — Destruction of
my House and the Village by a Typhoon — Rendezvous with a
Bandit — Ineffectual Attempts to Reform Him — His Death —
Journey to Tapuzi — Its Inaccessibility — Government of the
Tapuzians — Morality and Religious Character of their Chief
— Their Curiosity at beholding a White Man — Former
Wickedness and Divine Punishment —We bid adieu to the
Tapuzians, and return to Jala- Jala ......... 162

CHAPTER IX.

Suppression of War between two Indian Towns — Flourishing Con
dition of Jala-Jala — Hospitality to Strangers — Field Sports —
Bat and Lizard Shooting — Visit to, and Description of, the
Isle of Socolme — Adventure with a Cayman — Cormorants —
We visit Los Banos — Monkey Shooting — Expedition to, and
Description of, the Grotto of San-Mateo — Magnificent aspert
of the Interior . 181

CHAPTER X.

Duraont d'Urville — Bear-Admiral Laplace : Desertion of Sailors
from his Ship — I recover them for him — Origin of the In
habitants of the Philippine Islands — Their General Disposition
— Hospitality and Respect for Old Age — Tagal Marriage Cere
mony — Indian Legal Eloquence — ^Explanation of the Matri
monial Speeches — The Caymans, or Alligators — Instances of

CONTENTS. ix

I'.v

their Ferocity— Imprudence and Death of my Shepherd-
Method of Entrapping the Monster whieh had devoured him —
We Attack and eventually Capture it — Its Dimensions — We
Dissect and Examine the Contents of its Stomach — Boa-Con
strictors — Their large size — Attack of a Boa-Constrictor on a
Wild Boar — We Kill and Skin it — Unsuccessful Attempt to
Capture a Boa- Constrictor alive — A Man Devoured — Dan
gerous Venomous Eeptiles ............ 201

CHAPTER XL

The Prosperity and Happiness of my Life at Jala-Jala — Destruc-
tivencss of the Locusts — Agriculture in the Philippines — My
Herds of Oxen, Buffaloes, and Horses — My Wife presents me
with a Daughter, who dies — The Admiration of the Indian »
Women for my Wife — Birth of my Son— Continued Prosperity
— Death of my Brother Henry — My Friendship with Malvi-
lain — His Marriage with my eldest Sister — His Premature
Death — I take my Wife to Manilla — Melancholy Adieus — We
Return to Jala-Jala — Death of my Wife — My friend Vidie — I
determine to Return to France ........... 228

CHAPTER XII.

My friend Adolphe Barrot visits me at Jala-Jala — The Bamboo
Cane — The Cocoa-Nut Tree — The Banana — Majestic Forests

!of Gigantic Trees — The Leeches — A Tropical Storm in a
Forest — An Indian Bridge — "Bernard the Hermit" — We
arrive at Binangonan-de-Lampon — The Ajetas — Veneration of
the Ajetas for their Dead — Poison used hy the Ajetas — I carry
away a Skeleton — We Embark on the Pacific in an old CJIH.-KJ,
reach Maoban, and ultimately arrive «t Jala- Jala ....

S CONTENTS.

Tatf:

CHAPTER XIII.

] Determine not again to Separate from my Son — 1 take him to
Manilla — The Effects of the Wound I received among the
Ajetas — My Recovery — Kindness of the Spanish and other
Inhabitants of Manilla — Illness of my Son — I return with him
to Jala- Jala — Sorrowful Remembrances — The Death of my
poor Boy — His Interment — My frantic Grief and Despair —
I Determine to Quit the Philippines — I am Called to Manilla
by Madame Dolores Seneris — My Final Departure from Jala-
Jala — I Arrive at Manilla, where I resume Practice as a Sur
geon — I Embark for France — Discontent — My Travels through
Europe — I Marry again — Death of my Mother and my Second
Wife — Conclusion . 283

STATISTICS OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.— Mechanical and Agri
cultural Products — I. The Soil of the Island of Luzon, and
the Sources of its Fertility — II. Rice— III. Indigo— IV. Tobacco
—V. Abaca, or Vegetable Silk— VL Coffee— VII. Cacao—
VIII. Cotton— IX. Pepper— X. Wheat— XI. Sugar Cane—
XII. Bamboo— XIII. The Buffalo ......... 305

AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS. — I. The Indian Plough— II. Yoke
for the Buflaloes-III. Lilit, or the Indian Sickle— IV. The
Comb Harrow— V. Guiligen, or Hand-Mill— VI. The Mortar. 331

APPENDIX. — I. Testimony of M. Gabriel Lafond 337

II. Testimony of H. Hamilton Lindsay, Esq. . . . 340
Account of a Visit to the Cave of San Matteo, in
the neighbourhood of Manilla 342

III. Testimony of M. Dnmont d'Urville 356

IV. Testimony of Admiral Laplace 362

V. Testimony of M. Mallat 872

LIST OF ILLUSTBATIONS.

FRONTISPIECE, A NATIVE WOMAN CARRIED OFF BY A CAYMAN.
TITLE PAGE, PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR.

NANTES 17

SAYING THE LIFE OF CAPTAIN DKOUANT .... 22

MOUTH OF THE BAY OF MANILLA 32

SPANISH METIS, OR HALF-BREEDS 36

CHINESE METIS, OR HALF-BREEDS 37

SPANISH METIS OF THE SUPERIOR CLASS .... 47

BRIDGE OF MANILLA , 50

STAG HUNTING IN THE MARIGONDON MOUNTAINS . . 62

PASSAGE-BOAT ON THE RIVER PASIG 70

TAGAL INDIANS POUNDING RICE 82

FATHER MIGUEL 86

SHOOTING A BUFFALO 93

HORNS OF THE BUFFALO 93

THE HOUSE AT JALA-JALA 95

HERD OF WILD BUFFALOES « 98

TAGAL COCK-FIGHTING 10i

TAGAL INDIANS 103

ILOCOS INDIANS 106

THE BRAIN FEAST ...,..,.. 112

GUINAN INDIANS .... 117

Ml LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Pxge

WEAPONS OF THE TINGUIAN INDIANS 12-3

BIRANGAS INDIANS — INHABITANTS OF BOULACAN . . 138

FISHING RAFT 139

THE HOUSE OF LA PLANCHE ... 162

CHURCH OF PANDACAN, IN THE ENVIRONS OF MANILLA . 178

HUNTING PARTY AT JALA- JALA 181

CASCADE NEAR JALA- JALA 185

VIEW AT SAN-MATEO 195

PORTRAIT OF DUMONT D'URVILLE 204

A TAGAL INDIAN DWELLING 20S

YOUNG TAGAL INDIAN AND HIS BETROTHED . . . 209

ATTACKING A CAYMAN 219

BOA-CONSTRICTOR AND WlLD BOAR 222

ATTACKING A BOA-CONSTRICTOR 221

RICE, STACKING IN THE PHILIPPINES ..... 228

THE LOCUST 230

VIEW ON THE RIVER PASIG 239

AJETAS INDIANS 245

LA GIRONIERE IN HUNTING DRESS 247

THE COCOA-NUT 250

THE BANANA 251

TRAVERSING AN INDIAN FOREST 251

FRUIT OF THE PALM TREE 25G

INHABITANTS OF BINANGONAN DE LAMPON .... 265

VIEW OF MANILLA FROM THE ENVIRONS .... 283

THE INDIAN PLOUGH 334

YOKE FOR THE BUFFALOES 335

LILIT, OR THE INDIAN SICKLE ...... 335

THE COMB HARROW 335

A GUILIGEN, OR HAND-MILL ....... 336

THE MORTAR . r > 386

PREFACE.

ON hearing a recital of some adventures which had
occurred to me during my long voyages, many of my
friends have frequently begged of me to publish a narra
tive of them, which might perhaps be interesting.

" Nothing can be more easy for you," they said, " as
you have always kept a journal since your departure from
France.

I hesitated, however, to follow their advice, or to yield
to their wishes, when I was one day surprised to see my
name in one of \\\G feuilletons of the " Comtitutionnel?

M. Alexandra Dumas was publishing, under the title
of " The Thousand- and- One Phantoms ," a romance, one
of the principal personages of which, in a voyage to the
Philippine Islands, must have known me when I was
residing at Jala-Jala, in the colony that I founded there.

XIV PREFACE.

It must be evident that the lively romancist has ranken
ine in the category of his Thousand-and-One Phantoms;
but, to prove to the public that I am really in existence,
I have resolved to take up the pen, under an impression
that facts of the most scrupulous veracity, arid which can
be attested by some hundreds of persons, might possess
some interest, and be read without ennui, by those
especially who are desirous of learning the customs of
the savage tribes amongst whom I have resided.

TWENTY YEARS

IN

THE PHILIPPINES.

CHAPTER I.

A Family Sketch — My Youthful Days — I Study for the Medical Profession —
Obtain a Naval Surgeon's Diploma — Early Voyages — Sail for Manilla in
the Cultivateur — Adventurous Habits — Cholera and Massacre at Manilla
and Cavite — Captain Drouant's Rescue — Personal Dangers and Timely
Escapes — How Business may make Friends of one's Enemies — An Un
principled Captain — Tranquillity restored at Manilla — Pleasures of the
Chase — The Cultivateur sails without me — First Embarrassments.

~[\/TY father was born at Nantes, and held the rank of captain

in the regiment of Auvergne. The Revolution caused

him the loss of his commission and his fortune, and left him, as

sole remaining resource, a little property called La PlancJic,

B

18 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

belonging to my mother, and situate about two leagues from
Nantes, in the parish of Vertoux.

At the commencement of the Empire he wished to enter
the service again ; but at that period his name was an obstacle,
c.iul he failed in every attempt to obtain even the rank of
lieutenant. With scarcely the means of existence, he retired
to La Planclie with his family. There he lived for some years,
suffering the grief and the many annoyances caused by the
sudden change from opulence to want, and by the impossi
bility of supplying all the requirements of his numerous family.
A short illness terminated his distressed existence, and his mortal
remains were deposited in the cemetery of Vertoux. My mother,
a pattern of courage and devotedness, remained a widow, with
six children, two girls arid four boys ; she continued to reside in
the country, imparting to us the first elements of instruction.

The free life of the fields, and the athletic exercises to
which my elder brothers and I accustomed ourselves, tended
to make mo hardy, and rendered me capable of enduring every
kind of fatigue and privation. This country life, with its liberty,
and I may well say its happiness, passed too quickly away ;
and the period soon came when my education compelled me to
pursue my daily studies in a school at Nantes. I had four
leagues to walk, but I trudged the distance light-heartedly, and
at night, when I returned home, I ever found awaiting me the
kind solicitude of our dear mother, and the attentive cares of
two sisters whom I tenderly loved.

It was decided that I should enter the medical profession.
I studied several years at the Hotel-Dieu of Nantes, and I
passed my examination for naval surgeon at an age when many
a young man is shut up within the four walls of a college, still
prosecuting his studies.

EARLY VOYAGES SAIL FOR MANILLA. ID

It would be difficult to form any idea of my joy when I
saw myself in possession of my surgeon's diploma. Thence
forward I regarded myself as an important being, about to take
my place among reasonable and industrious men; and what
perhaps rendered me still more joyous was, that I could earn
my own livelihood, and contribute to the comfort of my mother
and my sisters.

I was also seized with a strong desire to travel abroad,
and make myself acquainted with foreign countries.

Twenty-four hours after my nomination as surgeon I went
and offered my services to a ship-owner who was about freighting
a vessel to the East Indies. We were not long in arranging
terms, and, at forty francs per month, I engaged myself for the
voyage.

Within twelve months afterwards I returned home. Who
can depict the sweet emotions which, as a young man, I felt on
again beholding my native land ? I stayed a month on shore,
surrounded by the affectionate attentions of my mother and
sisters. Despite their assiduities I was seized with ennui, I
made a second and a third voyage ; then, after having rounded
the Cape of Good Hope half-a-dozen times, I undertook one
which separated me from my country during twenty years.

On the 9th October, 1819, I embarked on board the Cul-
tivatcur, an old half-rotten three-masted vessel, commanded
by an equally old captain, who, long ashore, had given up navi
gating for many years. An old captain with an old ship ! Such
were the conditions in which I undertook this voyage. I ought,
however, to add, that I obtained an increase of pay.

We touched at Bourbon ; we ran along the entire coast of
Sumatra, a part of Java, the isles of Sonde, and that of Banca ;
and at last, towards the end of May, eight months after our

20 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

departure from Nantes, we arrived in the magnificent bay of
Manilla.

The Cultivatcur anchored near the little town of Cavite.
I obtained leave to reside on shore, and took lodgings in Cavite,
which is situate about five or six leagues from Manilla.

To make up for my long inactivity on board ship, I eagerly
engaged in my favorite exercises, exploring the country in all
directions with my gun upon my shoulder. Taking for a guide
the first Indian whom I met, I made long excursions, less
occupied in shooting than in admiring the magnificent scenery.
I knew a little Spanish, and soon acquired a few Tagaloc
words. Whether it was for excitement's sake, or from a vague
desire of braving danger, I know not, but I was particularly
fond of wandering in remote places, said to be frequented by
robbers. With these I occasionally fell in, but the sight of
my gun kept them in check. I may say, with truth, that at
that period of my life I had so little sense of danger, that 1
was always ready to put myself forward when there was an
enemy to fight or a peril to be encountered.

I had only resided a short time at Cavite when that
terrible scourge, the cholera, broke out at Manilla, in Sep
tember, 1820, and quickly ravaged the whole island. Within
a few days of its first appearance the epidemic spread rapidly ;
the Indians succumbed by thousands ; at all hours of the day
and of the night the streets were crowded with the dead-carts.
Next to the fright occasioned by the epidemic, quickly suc
ceeded rage and despair. The Indians said, one to another,
that the strangers poisoned the rivers and the fountains, in
order to destroy the native population and possess themselves
of the Philippines.

On the 9th October, 1820, the anniversary of my departure

FRIGHTFUL MASSACRE AT MANILLA AND CAVITE. 21

from France, a dreadful massacre commenced at Manilla and
at Cavitc. Poor Dibard, the captain of the Cultivatcur, was
one of the first victims. Almost all the French who resided
at Manilla were slain, and their houses pillaged and destroyed.
The carnage only ceased when there were no longer any
victims. One eye-witness escaped this butchery, namely, M.
Gautrin, a captain of the merchant service, who, at the
moment I am writing, happens to be residing in Paris. He
saved his life by his courage and his muscular strength. After
seeing one of his friends mercilessly cut to pieces, he precipi
tated himself into the midst of the assassins, with no other
means of defence than his fists. He succeeded in fighting his
way through the crowd, but shortly afterwards fell exhausted,
having received three sabre-cuts upon his head, and a lance-
thrust in his body. Fortunately, some soldiers happened to
pass by at the time, who picked him up and carried him to a
guard-house, where his wounds were quickly attended to.

I myself was dodged about Cavite, but I contrived to
escape, and to reach a pirogue, into which I jumped, and took
refuge on board the Cultivateur. I had scarcely been there
ten minutes when I was requested to attend the mate of an
American vessel, who had just been stabbed ori board his ship
by some custom-house guards. When I had finished dressing
the wound, several officers, belonging to the different French
vessels lying in the bay, acquainted me that one of their
brethren, Captain Drouant, of Marseilles, was still ashore, and
that there might yet be time to save him. There was not a
moment to lose ; night was approaching, and it was necessary
to profit by the last half-hour of daylight. I set off in a
cutter, and, on nearing the land, I directed my men to keep
the boat afloat, in order to prevent a surprise on the part of the

22 TWENTY YEARS II,' THE PHILIPPINES.

Indians, but yet to hug the shore sufficiently close to land
promptly, in case the captain or myself signaled them. I
then quickly set about searching for Drouant.

On reaching a small square, called Puerto, J3aga, I ob
served a group of three or four hundred Indians. I had a
presentiment that it was in that direction I ought to prosecute
my search. I approached, and beheld the unfortunate Drouant,
pale as a corpse. A furious Indian was on the point of plung
ing his kreese into his breast. I threw myself between the
captain and the poignard, violently pushing on either side the
murderer and his victim, so as to separate them. "Run!" I
cried in French ; "a boat awaits you." So great was the stupe
faction of the Indians that the captain escaped unpursued.

It was now time for me to get out of the dangerous situ
ation in which I was involved. Four hundred Indians sur
rounded me ; ihe only way of dealing with them was by audacity.
I said in Tagaloc to the Indian who had attempted to stab the
captain: "You are a scoundrel." The Indian sprang toward
me ; he raised his arm : I struck him on the head with a cane
which I held in my hand ; he waited in astonishment for a
moment, and then returned towards his companions to excite
them. Daggers were drawrn on every side ; the crowd formed
a circle around me, which gradually concentrated. Mysterious
influence of the white man over his coloured brother ! Of all
these four hundred Indians, not one dared attack me the first ;
they all wished to strike together. Suddenly a native soldier,
armed with a musket, broke through the crowd ; he struck
down my adversary, took away his dagger, and holding his
musket by the^ bayonet end, he swung it round and round his
head, thus enlarging the circle at first, and then dispersing a
portion of my enemies. " Fly, sir !" said my liberator ; " now

A FRIEND IN NEED A TIMELY WARNING. 23

that I am here, no one will touch a hair cf your head." In
fact the crowd divided, and left me a free passage. I was saved,
without knowing by whom, or for what reason, until the native
soldier called after me : "You attended my wife who was sick,
and you never asked payment of me. I now settle my debt."

As Captain Drouant had doubtless gone off in the cutter,
it. was impossible for me to return on board the Cultivate? tr.
I directed my steps towards my lodgings, creeping along the
walls, and taking advantage of the obscurity, when, on turning
the corner of a street, I fell into the midst of a band of dock
yard workmen, armed with axes, and about to proceed to the at
tack of the French vessels then in harbor. Here again I owed
my preservation to an acquaintance, to whom I had rendered
some service in the practice of my profession. A Metis, or
half-breed, who had quickly pushed me into the entry of a house,
and covered me with his body, said: "Stir not, Doctor Pablo !"*
"When the crowd had dispersed, my protector advised mo
to conceal myself, and above all, not to go on board ; he then
started off to rejoin his comrades. But all was not yet over. I
had scarcely entered my lodgings when I heard a knocking at
the door.

" Doctor Pablo," said a voice, which was not unknown to me.

I opened, and I saw, as pale as death, a Chinese, who kept
a tea-store on the ground-floor of the same house.

" What's the matter, Yang-Po ?"

" Save yourself, Doctor !"

" And wherefore ?"

" Because the Indians will attack you this very night ; they
have decided upon it !"

* Pablo signifies Paul, my Christian namo. [ was always called thus
at Manilla and at Cuvite.

24 TWENTY YEARS IN THE I'lIlLirriNES.

"Is it not your apprehension on. account of your shop,
Yang-Po ?"

"Oh, no ! do not treat this matter lightly. If you remain
here you are doomed ; you have struck an Indian, and his
friends cry aloud for vengeance."

The fears of Yang-Po were, I saw, too well-founded ; but
what could I do ? To shut my door and await was the safest
plan.

" Thank you," said I to the Chinese ; " thank you for your
kind advice, but I shall remain here."

" Remain here, Signor Doctor ! Can you think of so doing ?"

" Now, Yang-Po, a service : go and say to these Indians
that I have, at their service, a brace of pistols and a double-
barreled gun, which I know how to use."

The Chinese departed sighing deeply, from a notion that
the attack upon the Doctor might end in the pillage of his
wares. I barricaded my door with the furniture of the room ;
I then loaded my weapons, and put out the lights.

It was now eight o'clock in the evening. The least noise
made me think that the moment had arrived when Providence
alone could save me. I was so fatigued that, despite the
anxiety natural to my position, I had frequently to struggle
against an inclination to sleep. Toward eleven o'clock some
one knocked at my door. I seized my pistols, and listened
attentively. At a second summons, I approached the door on
tip-toe.

" Who's there ?" I demanded.

A voice replied to me; "We come to save you. Lose not
an instant. Get out on the roof, and climb over to the other
side, wrhere we will await you, in the street of the Campanario"
Then two or three persons descended the stairs rapidly. I had

ESCAPE FROM THE INDIANS. 25

recognised the voice of a Metis, whose good feelings on my
behalf were beyond doubt. There was now no time to be lost,
for at the moment I got out of a window which served to
light the staircase, and led on to the roof, the Indians had
arrived in front of the house, and in a few minutes were
breaking and plundering the little I possessed. I quickly
traversed the roof, and descended into the street of the Cam
panario, where my new preservers awaited me. They conducted
me to their dwelling : there, a profound sleep caused me
quickly to forget the dangers I had passed through.

The following day my friends prepared a small pirogue to
convey me on board the Cultivatcur, where, apparently, I
should be in greater security than on shore. I was about to
embark when one of my preservers handed me a letter which
he had just received. It was addressed to me, and bore the
signatures of all the captains whose vessels were lying in the
harbour, and it informed me that, seeing themselves exposed
every moment to an attack by the Indians, they were decided
to raise anchor and seek a wider offing ; but that two among
them, Drouant and Perroux, had been compelled to leave on
shore a portion of their possessions, and all their sails and
fresh water. They entreated me to lend them my assistance,
and had arranged that a skiff should be placed at my command.
I communicated this letter to my friends, and declared that I
would not return on board without endeavouring to satisfy the
wishes of my countrymen ; it was a question of saving the lives
of the crews of two vessels, and hesitation was impossible.
They used every effort to shake my resolution. " If you show
yourself in any part of the town," said they, " you are lost ;
even supposing the Indians were not to kill you, they would
not fail to steal every object intrusted to them." I remained

B

26 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

immovable, and pointed out to them that it was a question of
honour and humanity. "Go alone, then!" exclaimed that
Metis who had contributed the most to my escape ; " not
one of us will follow you ; we would not have it said that we
assisted in your destruction."

I thanked my friends, and, after shaking hands with them,
passed on through the streets of Cavite, my pistols in my belt,
and my thoughts occupied as to the best means of extricating
myself from my perilous position. However, I already knew
sufficient of the Indian character to be aware that boldness
would conciliate, rather than enrage them. I went towards
the same landing-pace where once before I had escaped a
great danger. The shore was covered with Indians, watching
the ships at anchor. As I advanced, all turned their looks
upon me ; but, as I had foreseen, the countenances of these
men, whose feelings had become calmed during the night that
had intervened, expressed more astonishment than anger.

" Will you earn money ?" I cried. " To those who work
with me I will give a dollar at the end of the day."

A moment's silence followed this proposition ; then one
of them said : " You do not fear us !"

"Judge if I am alarmed," I replied, showing him my
pistols ; " with these I could take two lives for one — the
advantage is on my side."

My words had a magical effect, and my questioner replied :

" Put up your weapons ; you have a brave heart, and
deserve to be safe amongst us. Speak ! what do you require ?
We will follow you." I saw these men, who but yesterday
would have killed me, now willing to bear me in triumph. I
then explained to them that I wished to take some articles
which had been left on shore to my comrades, and to those

A BAKGAIN WITH THE ENEMY. M

who assisted me in this object I would give the promised re
compense. I told the one who had addressed me to select
two hundred men, nearly double the number necessary ; during
the time he made up his party I signaled a skiff to approach
the shore, and wrote a few words in pencil, in order that the
boats from the French vessels might be in readiness to receive
the stores as soon as they were brought to the water's edge.
I then marched at the head of my Indian troop of two
hundred men, and by their aid the sails, provisions, biscuits,
and wines, were soon on board the boats. That which most
embarrassed me was the transport of a large sum ]of money
belonging to Captain Drouant. If the Indians had conceived
the least suspicion of this wealth, they would no longer have
kept faith with me. I therefore determined to fill my own
pockets with the gold, and to traverse the distance between
the house and the boats as many times as was necessary to
embark it. There, concealed by the sailors, I deposited piece
after piece as quietly as possible. In carrying the sails
belonging to Captain Perroux, a circumstance occurred which
might have been fatal to me. A few days before the massacre,
a French sailor, who was working as sail maker, had died of
the cholera. His alarmed companions wrapped the body in
a sail, and then hurried on board their ships. My Indians now
discovered the corpse, which was already in a state of putre
faction. Terrified at first, their terror soon changed to fury ;
for an instant I feared they would fall upon me.

"Your friends," they cried, "have left this body here
purposely, that it might poison the air and increase the vio
lence of the epidemic."

" What ! you are afraid of a poor devil dead of the cholera !"
I said to them, affecting to be as tranquil as possible ; " never

28 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

fear, 1 will soon rid you of him ;" and, despite the aversion I
felt, I covered the body with a small sail, and carried it down
to the beach. There I made a rude grave, in which I placed
it ; and two pieces of wood, in the shape of a cross, for some
days indicated the spot where lay the unhappy one, who pro
bably had no prayers save mine.

It had been a busy and agitating day, but towards the even
ing I finished my task, and everything was embarked. I paid
the Indians, and in addition gave them a barrel of spirits.

I did not fear their intoxication, being the only Frenchman
there, and when it was dark I got into a boat, and towed a dozen
casks of fresh water at her stern. Since the previous day I
had not eaten ; I felt worn out by fatigue and want of food,
and threw myself down to rest upon the seats of the boat.
Ere long a mortal chilliness passed through my veins, and I
became insensible. In this state I remained more than an
hour. At last I reached the Cultivateur, and was taken on
board, and, by the aid of friction, brandy, and other remedies,
was restored to consciousness. Food and rest quickly renovated
my powers of mind and body, and the next day I was calm as
usual among my comrades. I thought of my personal posi
tion ; the events of the two last days made the review ex
tremely simple. I had lost everything. A small venture of
merchandise, in which I invested the savings of my previous
voyages, had been intrusted to the captain for sale at Manilla.
These goods were destroyed, together with all I possessed, at
Cavite. There remained to me but the clothes I had on — a
few old things I could wear only on board ship — and thirty-two
dollars. I was but a littleric her than Bias. Unfortunate^
I recollected that an English captain — whose ship I had seen
in the roads—owed me something like a hundred dollars. In

A DISHONEST TAR— TRANQUILLITY RESTORED. 29

my present circumstances this sum appeared a fortune. The
captain in question, from fear of the Indians, had dropped
lown as far as Maribele, at the entrance of the bay, ten
leagues from Cavite. To obtain payment it was necessary I
should go on board his vessel. I borrowed a boat, and the
services of four sailors, from Captain Perroux, and departed.
I reached the ship at dusk. The unprincipled captain, who
knew himself to be in deep water and safe from pursuit, re
plied that he did not understand what I was saying to him.
I insisted upon being paid, and he laughed in my face. I
was treated as a cheat. He threatened to have me thrown
into the sea ; in short, after a useless discussion, and at the
moment when the captain called five or six of his sailors to execute
his threat, I retreated to my boat. The night was dark, and
as a violent and contrary wind had sprung up, it was impossible
to regain the ship, so we passed the night floating upon the
waves, ignorant as to the direction we were going. In the
morning I discovered our efforts had been thrown away ;
Cavite was far behind us. The wind becoming calmer, we
again commenced rowing, and two hours after noon reached
the ship.

Meanwhile tranquillity was restored at Cavite and Manilla.
The Spanish authorities took measures to prevent a recurrence
of the frightful scenes I have detailed, and the priests
of Cavite launched a public excommunication against all those
who had attempted my life. I attributed this solicitude to the
character of my profession, being in fact the only ^Esculapius in
the place. When I left the town the sick were obliged to
content themselves with the hazardous presumptions of Indian
sorcerers. One morning, I had almost decided upon return
ing to land, when an Indian, in a smartly decorated pirogue

80 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

came alongside the Cultivateur. I had met this man in som<?
of my shooting excursions, and he now proposed that I should
go with him to his house, situated ten leagues from Cavite,
near the mountains of Marigondon. The prospect of some
good sport soon decided me to accept this offer. Taking with
me my thirty-two dollars and double-barreled gun — in fact, my
whole fortune — I intrusted myself to this friend, whose ac
quaintance I had just made. His little habitation was de
lightfully situated, in the cool shadow of the palm and yang-
yang — immense trees, whose flowers spread around a delicious
perfume. Two charming Indian girls were the Eves of this
paradise. My good friend kept the promises he had made me
on leaving the vessel ; I was treated both by himself and family
with every attention and kindness.

Hunting was my principal amusement, and, above all, the
chase of the stag, which involves violent exercise. I was still
ignorant of wild-buffalo hunting, of which, however, I shall
have to speak later in my narrative ; and I often requested my
host to give me a taste of this sport, but he always refused,
saying it was too dangerous. For three weeks I lived with the
Indian family without receiving any news from Manilla, when
one morning, a letter came from the first mate — who, on the
death of the unfortunate Dibard, had taken the command of the
Cultivateur — telling me he was about to sail, and that I must
go on board at once if I wished to leave a country which had
been so fatal to all of us. This summous was already several
days old, and despite the reluctance I; felt to quit the Indian's
pleasant retreat, it was necessary that I should prepare to
start. I presented my gun to my kind host, but had nothing
to give his daughters, for to have offered them money would
have been an insult. The next day I arrived at Manilla, still

LEFT IN THE LURCH — FIRST EMBARRASSMENTS. 31

thinking of the cool shade of the palm and the perfumed
flowers of the yang-yang. My first impulse was to go to the
quay ; but, alas ! the Cultivateur had sailed, and I had the
misery of beholding her already faraway in the horizon, moving
sluggishly before a gentle breeze towards the mouth of the bay.
I asked some Indian boatmen to take me to the ship ; they
replied that it might be practicable if the wind did not freshen,
but demanded twelve dollars to make the attempt. I had but
twenty-five remaining. I considered for a few moments, should
I not reach the vessel, what would become of me in a remote
colony, where I knew no one, and my stock of money reduced
to thirteen dollars, and with no articles of dress than those I
had on — a white jacket, trousers, and striped shirt. A sud
den thought crossed my mind : what if I were to remain at
Manilla, and practise my profession? Young and inexpe-
lienced, I ventured to think myself the clever -st physician
in the Philippine Islands. Who has not felt this self-confi
dence so natural to youth ? I turned my back upon the ship,
and walked briskly into Manilla.

Before continuing this recital, let me describe the capital
of the Philippines.

Mouth of the Bsj of Manilla.

CHAPTEK IT.

Description of Manilla — The two Towns — Gaiety of Binondoc — Dances — Gaming
— Beauty of the Women — Their Fascinating Costume — Male Costume — The
Military Town — Personal Adventures — My First Patient — His Generous Con
fidence — Commencement of my Practice — The Artificial Eye — Brilliant Suc
cess — The Charming Widow — Auspicious Introduction — My Marriage —
Treachery and Fate of Iturbide- -Our Loss of Fortune — Return to France
postponed.

1\/TANILLA and its suburbs contain a population of about
^'•*- one hundred and fifty thousand souls, of which Spaniards
and Creoles hardly constitute the tenth part ; the remainder
is composed of Tagalocs, or Indians, Metis, and Chinese,

DESCRIPTION OF MANILLA — THE TWO TOWNS. 33

The city is divided iiito two sections — the military and the
mercantile— the latter of which is the suburb. The former,
surrounded by lofty walls, is bounded by the sea on one side,
and upon another by an extensive plain, where the troops are
exercised, and where of an evening the indolent Creoles, lazily ex
tended in their carriages, repair to exhibit their elegant dresses
and to inhale the sea-breezes. This public promenade — where
intrepid horsemen and horsewomen, and European vehicles,
cross each other in every direction — may be styled the Champs-
Elysees, or the Hyde Park, of the Indian Archipelago. On a
third side, the military town is separated from the trading town
by the river Pasig, upon which are seen all the day boats laden
with merchandize, and charming gondolas conveying idlers to
different parts of the suburbs, or to visit the ships in the bay.

The military town communicates by the bridge of Binon-
doc with the mercantile town, inhabited principally by the
Spaniards engaged in public affairs; its aspect is dull and
monotonous ; all the streets, perfectly straight, are bordered
by wide granite footpaths. In general, the highways are
macadamised, and kept in good condition. Such is the effemi
nacy of the people, they could not endure the noise of carriages
upon pavement. The houses— large and spacious, palaces
in appearance — are built in a particular manner, calculated to
withstand the earthquakes and hurricanes so frequent in this
part of the world. They have all one story, with a ground-
floor ; the upper part, generally occupied by the family, is sur
rounded by a wide gallery, opened or shut by means of large
sliding panels, the panes of which are thin mother-of-pearl.
The mother-of pearl permits the passage of light to the apart
ments, and excludes the heat of the sun. In the military
town are all the monasteries and convents, the archbishopric.

c

34 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

the courts of justice, the custom-house, the hospital, the
governor's palace, and the citadel, which overlooks both towns.
There are three principal entrances to Manilla — Piwrta Santa
Lucia, Puerta Real, and Puerto, Parian.

At one o'clock the drawbridges are raised, and the gates
pitilessly closed, when the tardy resident must seek his night's
lodging in the suburb, or mercantile town, called Binondoc.
This portion of Manilla wears a much gayer and more lively
aspect than the military section. There is less regularity
in the streets, and the buildings are not so fine as those in what
may be called Manilla proper ; but in Binondoc all is move
ment, all is life. Numerous canals, crowded with pirogues, gon
dolas, and boats of various kinds, intersect the suburb, where
reside the rich merchants — Spanish, English, Indian, Chinese,
and Metis. The newest and most elegant houses are built
upon the banks 6f the river Pasig. Simple in exterior, they
contain the most costly inventions of English and Indian
luxury.- Precious vases from China, Japan ware, gold, silver,
and rich silks, dazzle the eyes on entering these unpretending
habitations. Each house has a landing-place from the river,
and little bamboo palaces, serving as bathing-houses, to which
the residents resort several times daily, to relieve the fatigue
caused by the intense heat of the climate. The cigar manufactory,
which affords employment continually to from fifteen to twenty
thousand workmen and other assistants, is situated in Binondoc ;
also the Chinese custom-house, and all the large working
establishments of Manilla. During the day, the Spanish
ladies, richly dressed in the transparent muslins of India and
China, lounge about from store to store, and sorely test the
patience of the Chinese salesman, who unfolds uncomplainingly,
and without showing the least ill-humour, thousands of pieces

DANCES — GAMING — BEAUTY OF THE WOMEN. 35

of goods before his customers, which are frequently examined
simply for amusement, and not half a yard purchased. The
balls and entertainments, given hy the half-breeds of Biuondoc
to their friends, are celebrated throughout the Philippines.
The quadrilles of Europe are succeeded by the dances of
India, and while the young people execute the fandango, the
bolero, the cachucha, or the lascivious movements of the
bayaderes, the enterprising half-breed, the indolent Spaniard,
and the sedate Chinese, retire to the gaming saloons, to try
their fortune at cards and dice. The passion for play is
carried to such an extent, that the traders lose or gain in
one night sums of 50,000 piasters (£10,000 sterling). The
half-breeds, Indians, and Chinese, have also a great passion
for cock-fighting ; these combats take place in a large arena.
I have seen £1,500 betted upon a cock which had cost £150 ;
in a few minutes this costly champion fell, struck dead by his
antagonist. In fine, if Binondoc be exclusively the city of
pleasure, luxury, and activity, it is also that of amorous
intrigues and gallant adventures. In the evening, Spaniards,
English, and French, go to the promenades to ogle the
beautiful and facile half-breed women, whose transparent robes
reveal their splendid figures. That which distinguishes the
female half-breeds (Spanish-Tagals, or Chinese-Tagals) is a
singularly intelligent and expressive 'physiognomy. Their hair,
drawn back from the face, and sustained by long golden pins,
is of marvellous luxuriance. They wear upon the head a
kerchief, transparent like a veil, made of the pine fibre, finer
than our finest cambric ; the neck is ornamented by a string
of large coral beads, fastened by a gold medallion. A
transparent chemisette, of the same stuff as the head-dress,
descends as far as the waist, covering, but not concealing, a

36

TWENTY YEARS IN TIIK PIM LIl'Pl N KS.

sfe

iil':

Spanish Metis, or Half-Biecils.

bosom that has never been imprisoned in stays. Below, and
two or three inches from the edge of the chemisette, is
attached a variously coloured petticoat of very bright hues.
Over this garment, a large and costly silk sash closely encircles
the figure, and shows its outline from the waist to the knee.
The small and white feet, always naked, are thrust into em
broidered slippers, which cover but the extremities. Nothing
can be more charming, coquettish, and fascinating, than this
costume, which excites in the highest degree the admiration
of strangers. The half-breed and Chinese Tagals know so
well the effect it produces on the Europeans, that nothing
would induce them to alter it.

While on the subject of dress, that of the men is also

tfOSTUME — THE MILITARY Tow.v

worthy of remark. The Indian and the half-breed wear upon
the head a large straw hat, black or white, or a sort of Chinese
covering, called a salacote ; upon the shoulders, the pine fibre
kerchief embroidered ; and round the neck, a rosary of coral
beads ; their shirts are also made from the fibres of the pine,
or of vegetable silk ; trousers of coloured silk, with embroidery
near the bottom, and a girdle of red China crape, complete
their costume. The feet, without stockings, are covered with
European shoes.

The military town, so quiet during the day, assumes a
more lively appearance towards the evening, when the inhabit
ants ride out in their very magnificent carriages, which are
invariably conducted by postilions ; they then mix with the

38 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

walking population of Binondoc. Afterwards visits, balls,
and the more intimate reunions take place. At the latter
they talk, smoke the cigars of Manilla, and chew the betel,*
drink glasses of iced eau sucree, and eat innumerable sweet
meats ; towards midnight those guests retire who do not stay
supper with the family, which is always served luxuriously, and
generally prolonged until two o'clock in the morning. Such is
the life spent by the wealthy classes under these skies so favoured
by Heaven. But there exists, as in Europe, and even to a
greater extent, the most abjec-t misery, of which I shall speak
hereafter, throwing a shade over this brilliant picture.

I shall now return to my personal adventures. While I
spoke with the Indians upon the shore, I had noticed a young
European standing not many paces from me ; I again met him
on the road I took towards Manilla, and I thought I would
address him. This young man was a surgeon, about returning
to Europe. I partly told him the plans I wished to form,
and asked him for some information respecting the city where
I pin-posed locating myself. He readily satisfied my inquiries,
and encouraged me in the resolution to exercise my profession
in the Philippine Islands. He had himself, he said, con
ceived the same project, but family affairs obliged him to
return to his country. I did not conceal the misfortune of my
position, and observed that it would be almost impossible to
pay visits in the costume, worse than plain, which I then wore.

" That is of no consequence," he replied ; " I have all you
would require : a coat almost new, and six capital lancets. I

* The betel is a species of pepper plant, the loaves of which are wrapped
round arcca nuts and the chunam — the latter is a kind of burnt-lime made
of shells, and the areca nut is the fruit of a species of palm. The Indians,
Chinese, half-breeds, and a great number of Creoles, continually chew this
mixture, which is reputed to sweeten the breath and assist digestion.

MY FIRST PATIENT. 39

will sell you these things for their cost price in France ; they
will be a great bargain." The affair was soon concluded. He
took me to his hotel, and I shortly left it encased in a garment
sufficiently good, but much too large and too long for me.
Nevertheless, it was some time since I had seen myself so
well clad, and I could not help admiring my new acquisition.

I had hidden my poor little white jacket in my hat, aiid
I strode along the causeway of Manilla more proud than Arta-
ban himself. I was the owner of a coat and six lancets ; but
there remained, for all my fortune, the sum of one dollar
only; this consideration slightly tempered the joy that I
felt in gazing on my brilliant costume. I thought of where
I could pass the night, and subsist on the morrow and the
following days, if the sick were not ready for me.

Reflecting thus I slowly wandered from Binondoc to the
military town, and from the military town back to Binondoc, —
when, suddenly, a bright idea shot across my brain. At
Cavite I had heard spoken of a Spanish captain, by name
Don Juan Porras, whom an accident had rendered almost
blind. I resolved to seek him, and offer my services; it
remained but to find his residence. I addressed a hundred
persons, but each replied that he did not know, and passed
on his way. An Indian who kept a small shop, and to whom
I spoke, relieved my trouble : "If the senor is a captain,"
he said, " your excellency would obtain his address at the
first barrack on your road." I thanked him, and eagerly
followed his counsel. At the infantry barracks, where I pre
sented myself, the officer on duty sent a soldier to guide me
to the captain's dwelling : it was time, the night had already
fallen. Don Juan Porras was an Audalusian, a good man, arid
of an extremely cheerful disposition. I found him with his

40 TWENTY TEARS TN THE PHILIPPINES.

head wrapped in a Madras handkerchief, busied in completely
covering his e}Tes with two enormous poultices.

" Senor Captain," I said, " I am a physician, and a skilful
oculist. I have come hither to take care of you, and I am
fulljr convinced that I shall cure you."

" Basta" (enough is said), was his answer ; " all the phy
sicians in Manilla are asses."

This more than sceptical reply did not discourage me. I re
solved to turn it to account. " My opinion is precisely the same
as yours," I promptly answered ; " and it is because I am strongly
convinced of the ignorance of the native doctors, that I have
made up my mind to come and practise in the Philippines."

" Of what nation are you, sir ? "

" I am a Frenchman."

" A French physician ! " cried Don Juan ; " Ah ! that is
quite another matter. I ask your pardon for having spoken
so irreverently of men of your profession. A French physician !
I put myself entirely into your hands. Take my eyes, Senor
Medico, and do what you will with them ! "

The conversation was taking a favourable turn : I hastened
to broach the principal question :

" Your eyes are very bad, Senor Captain," said I ; " to
accomplish a speedy cure, it is absolutely necessary that I
should never quit you for a moment."

"Would you consent to come and pass some time with
me, doctor?"

Here was the principal consideration settled.

" I consent," replied I, " but on one condition ; namely,
that I shall pay you for my board and lodging."

"That shall not part us — you are free to do so," said the
worthy man; " and so the matter is settled. I have a nice room,

COMMENCEMENT OF MY PRACTICE. 41

and a good bed, all ready ; there is nothing to do but to send
for your baggage. I will call my servant."

The terrible word, " baggage," sounded in my ears like
a knell. I cast a melancholy look at the crown of my hat—
my only portmanteau — within which were deposited all my
clothes — consisting of my little white jacket ; and I feared
Don Juan would take me for some runaway sailor trying to
dupe him. There was no retreat ; so I mustered my courage,
and briefly related my sad position, adding that I could not
pay for my board and lodging until the end of the month —
if I was so fortunate as to find patients. Don Juan Porras
listened to me very quietly. When my tale was told he burst
into a loud laugh, which made me shiver from head to foot.

" Well," cried he, " I am well pleased it should be so; you
are poor ; you will have more time to devote to my malady, and a
greater interest in curing me. What think you of the syllogism ?"

" It is excellent, Senor Captain, and before long you will
find, I hope, that I am not the man to compromise so dis
tinguished a logician as yourself. To-morrow morning I will
examine your eyes, and I will not leave you till I have radically
cured them."

We talked for some time longer in this joyous strain, after
which I retired to my chamber, where the most delightful
dreams visited my pillow.

The next day I rose early, put on my doctoral coat, and
entered the chamber of my host. I examined his eyes ; they
were in a dreadful state. The sight of one was not only
destroyed, but threatened the life of the sufferer. A cancer
had formed, and the enormous size it had attained rendered
the result of an operation doubtful. The left eye contained
many fibres, but there was hope of saving it. I frankly ac-

43 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PllILirPINES.

quainted Don Juan with my fears and hopes, and insisted
upor the entire removal of the right eye. The Captain, at
first astonished, decided courageously upon submitting to the
operation, which I accomplished on the following day with
complete success. Shortly afterwards the inflammatory symp
toms disappeared, and I could assure my host of a safe recovery.
I then bestowed all my attention upon the left eye. I desired
the more ardently to restore to Don Juan his vision, from the
good effect I was convinced his case would produce at Manilla.
For me it would he fortune and reputation. Besides, I had
already acquired, in the few days, some slight patronage, and
was in a position to pay for my board and lodging at the end
of the month. After six weeks' careful treatment Don Juan
was perfectly cured, and could use his eye as well as he did
previous to his accident. Nevertheless, to my great regret,
the Captain still continued to immure himself; his re-ap
pearance in society, which he had forsaken for more than a
year, would have produced an immense sensation, and I
should have been considered the first doctor in the Philip
pines. One day I touched upon this delicate topic.

Senor Captain," said I, " what are you thinking about,
to remain thus shut up between four walls, and why do you not
resume your old habits ? You must go and visit your friends,
your acquaintances."

" Doctor," interrupted Don Juan, " how can I show myself
in public with an eye the less? When I pass along the
street all the women would say : * There goes Don Juan the
One-eyed ! ' No, no ; before I leave the house you must get
me an artificial eye from Paris."

" You don't mean that ? It would be eighteen months
before the eye arrived."

THE ARTIFICIAL EYE. 43

" Then hero goes for eighteen months' seclusion," said
Don Juan.

I persisted for upwards of an hour, hut the Captain would
not listen to reason. He carried his coquetry so far that,
although I had covered the empty orbit with black silk, he
had his shutters closed whenever visitors came ; so that, as
they always found him in the dark, none would credit his
cure. I was very anxious to thwart Don Juan's obstinacy,
as may well be imagined ; I had not the time to waste, during
eighteen months, in dancing attendance at fortune's door ;
therefore I determined to make this eye myself, without
which the coquetish captain would not be seen. I took some
pieces of glass, a tube, and set to work. After many fruitless
attempts, I at last succeeded in obtaining the perfect form ol
an eye ; but this was not all — it must be coloured to resemble
nature. I sent for a poor carriage-painter, who managed to
imitate tolerably well the left eye of Don Juan. It was
necessary to preserve this painting from contact with the tears,
which would soon have destroyed it. To accomplish this I
had made by a jeweller a silver globe, smaller than the glass
eye, inside which I united it by means of sealing-wax. I
carefully polished the edges upon a stone, and after eight days'
labour I obtained a satisfactory result. The eye which I had
succeeded in producing was really not so bad after all. I was
anxious to place it within the vacant orbit. It somewhat inconve
nienced the Senor Don Juan, but I persuaded him that he
would soon become accustomed to it. Placing across his nose
a pair of spectacles, he examined himself in the looking-glass,
ajpd was so satisfied with his appearance that ho decided on
commencing his visits the following day.

As I had anticipated, the re-appearance in the world of

44 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

Captain Juan Porras made a great sensation, and soon tlio
consequence was, that Senor Don Pablo, the eminent French
physician — most especially the clever oculist — was much spoken
of. From all quarters patients came to me. Notwithstanding
my youth and inexperience, my first success gave me such
confidence that I performed several operations upon persons
afflicted with cataracts, which succeeded most fortunately. I
no longer sufficed to my large connection, and in a few days,
from the greatest distress, I attained perfect opulence : I
had a carriage-and-four in my stables. I could not, however,
notwithstanding this change of fortune, resign myself to leave
Don Juan's house, out of gratitude for the hospitality he so
generously offered me. In my leisure hours he kept me
company, and amused me with the recital of his battle stories
and personal adventures. J had already spent nearly six
months with him, when a circumstance, which forms an epoch
in my life, changed my existence, and compelled me to quit
the lively captain. One of my American friends often called
my attention in our walks towards a young lady in mourning,
who passed for one of the prettiest senoras of the town. Each
time we met her my American friend never failed to praise
the beauty of the Marquesa de Las Salinas. She was about
eighteen or nineteen years of age ; her features were both
regular and placid ; she had beautiful black hair, and large
expressive eyes ; she was the widow of a colonel in the guards,
who married her when almost a child. The sight of this
young lady produced so lively an impression upon me, that
I explored all the saloons at Binondoc, to endeavour to meet
her elsewhere than in my walks. Fruitless attempts ! The
young widow saw nobody. I almost despaired of finding an
opportunity of speaking to her, when one morning an Indian

AUSPICIOUS INTRODUCTION — MARRIAGE. 45

came to request me to visit his master. I got into the
carnage and set off, without informing myself of the name
of the .sick person. The carriage stopped before the door cf
one of the finest houses in the Faubourg of Santa-Crux.
Having examined the patient, and conversed a few minutes
with him, I went to the table to write a prescription ; suddenly
I heard the rustling of a silk dress ; I turned round — the
pen fell from my hand. Before me stood the very lady 1
had so long sought after — appearing to me as in a dream !
My amazement was so great that I muttered a few unin
telligible words, and bowed with such awkwardness that she
smiled. She simply addressed me to inquire the state of her
nephew's health, and withdrew almost immediately. As to
myself, instead of making my ordinary calls, I returned home ;
questioned Don Juan minutely about Madame de Las Salinas :
he entirely satisfied my curiosity. He was acquainted with
all the family of this youthful widow, and they were highly
respected in the colony. The next morning, and following
days, i returned to this charming widow, who graciously con
descended to receive me with favour. These details being so
completely personal, I pass them over. Six months after my
first interview with Madame de Las Salinas, I asked her hand,
and obtained it. I had therefore found, at more than five
thousand leagues from my country, both happiness and wealth.
I agreed that we should go to France as soon as my wife's
property, the greater part of which lay in Mexico, should be
realised. In the meantime my house was the rendezvous
of foreigners, particularly of the French, who were already
rather numerous at Manilla. At this period the Spanish
government named me Surgeon-Major of the 1st Light Regi
ment, and of the first battalion of the militia of Panjanga.

4(> TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

Having been so successful in so short a time, I never once
doubted but that fortune would continue to bestow her smiling
favours upon me. I had already prepared everything for my
return to France ; for we hourly expected the arrival of the
galleons that plied from Acapulco to Manilla, which were to
bring my wife's fortune. Her fortune was no less than
700,000 francs (£28,000 sterling).

One evening, as we were taking tea, we were informed
that the vessels from Acapulco had been telegraphed, and that
the next morning they would be in; our piasters were to be
on board ; I leave you to guess if our wishes were not gratified.
But, alas ! how our hopes were frustrated : the vessels did
not bring us a single piaster. This is what occurred : five or
six millions were sent by land from Mexico to San Bias, the
place of embarkation, and the Mexican government had the
van escorted by a regiment of the line, commanded by Colonel
Iturbide. On the journey he took possession of the van,
and fled with his regiment into the independent states. It
is well known that later Iturbide was proclaimed Emperor
of Mexico, then dethroned, and at last shot, after an expedition
that offers more than one analogy with that of Murat. The
very day of the arrival of the'vessels we learnt that our fortune
was entirely lost, without even hopes of regaining the smallest
part. My wife and self supported this event with tolerable
philosophy. It was not the loss of our piasters that distressed
us the most, but the necessity we were in to abandon, or at
least to postpone, our journey to France.

S8

^-.(^u^^5-^
i J
" ^^-^v^r^r^X--

;^;^^^P?5IS:^

..punish Mi- Us oi the bujiej ior cias

CHAPTEE III.

Continued Prosperity in Practice — Attempted Political Revolution — Desperate
Street Engagement — Subjugation of the Insurgents — The Emperor of a Day
— Dreadful Executions — Illness and Insanity of my Wife — Her Recovery
and Relapse — Removal to the Country — Beneficial Results — Dangerous
Neighbours — Repentant Banditti — Fortunate Escape — The Anonymous
Friend — A Confiding Wife — Her Final Recovery, and our Domestic Happi
ness Restored.

TPvESPITE the misfortune I have alluded to, I kept up
•*•' my house in the same style as before. My connec
tion, and the different posts I occupied, permitted me to lead
the life of a grandee belonging to the Spanish colonies ; and
probably I should have made my fortune in a few years, if

48 TWENTY TEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES,

I bad continued in the medical profession, but the wish for
unlimited liberty caused me to abandon all these advantages
for a life of peril and anxiety. At the same time do not let
us anticipate too suddenly, and let the reader patiently peruse
a few more pages about Manilla, and various events wherein 1
figured, either as actor or witness, before taking leave of a
sybarite citizen's Itfe

I was, as I said before, surgeon-major of the 1st Light
Regiment of the line, and on intimate terms with the staff, and
more particularly with Captain Novales, a Creole by birth, pos
sessing a courageous and venturesome disposition. He was sus
pected of endeavouring to excite his regiment to rebel in behalf
of the Independence. An inquiry was consequently instituted,
which ended without proof of the captain's culpability ; neverthe
less, as the governor still maintained his suspicious, he gave
orders for him to be sent to one of the southern provinces, under
the inspection of an alcaide. Novales came to see me the morn
ing of his departure, and complained bitterly of the injustice of
the governor towards him, and added that those who had no
confidence in his honour would repent, and that ho would soon
be back. I endeavoured to pacify him : we shook hands, and in
the evening he went on board the vessel commissioned to take
Him to his destination. The night after Novales departure, I
was startled out of rny sleep by the report of fire-arms. I
immediately dressed myself in my uniform, and hastened to
the barracks of my regiment. The streets were deserted;
sentinels were stationed at about fifty paces apart. I under
stood that an extraordinary event had occurred in some part
of the town. When I reached the barracks I was no little
astonished to find the gates wide open, the sentry's box vacant,
and not a soldier within. I went into the infirmary, set apart

ATTEMPTED POLITICAL REVOLUTION. 49

for the special service of the cholera patients, and there a
serjeant told me that the bad weather had compelled the
vessel that was taking Novales into exile to return into the
port ; that about one o'clock in the morning, Novales, accom
panied by Lieutenant Ruiz, came to the barracks, and having
made himself certain of the votes of the Creole non-commissioned
officers, put the regiment under arms, took possession of the
gates, and proclaimed himself Emperor of the Philippines.

This extraordinary intelligence caused me some anxiety.
My regiment had openly revolted ; if I joined it, and were
defeated, I should be considered a traitor, and, as such, shot ;
if, on the contrary, I fought against it, and the rebels proved
victorious, I knew Novales sufficiently well to be convinced that
he would not spare me. Nevertheless I could not hesitate : duty
bound me to the Spanish government, by which I had been so
ivell treated. I left the barracks, rambling where chance might
lead me. I shortly found myself at the head-quarters of the artil
lery ; an officer behind the gate stood observing me. I went up
to him, and asked him whether he was for Spain. Upon his
answering me in the affirmative, I begged him to open the
gate, declaring that I wished to join his party, and would
willingly offer my services as surgeon to them. I went in, and
took the commander's orders, which soon showed me how
matters stood. During the night Ruiz went, in the name of
Novales, to General Folgueras, the commander during the
absence of Governor Martin es, who was detained at his country
house, a short distance from Manilla. He took the guard
unawares, and seized the keys of the town, after having stabbed
Folgueras; from thence he went to the prisons, set the pri
soners at liberty, and put in their places the principal men of
the public offices belonging to the colony. The 1st Regi

50

TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

ment was on Government Place, ready to engage in battle ;
twice it attempted to fall unexpectedly upon the artillery and
citadel, but was driven back. Many expected assistance from
without, and orders from General Martines to attack the
rebels. Very soon we heard a discharge of artillery : it was
General Martines, who, at the head of the Queen's Regiment,
broke open Saint Lucy's Gate, and advanced into the besieged
town. The body of the artillery joined the governor-general,
and we marched towards Government Place. The insurgents
placed two cannons at the corner of each street. Scarcely had
we approached the palace, than we were exposed to a violent
discharge of loaded muskets. The head chaplain of the regi
ment was the first victim. We were then engaged in a street,
by- the side of the fortifications, and from which it was impossible
to attack the enemy with advantage. General Martines changed
the position of the attack, and in this condition we came back
by the street of Saint Isabelle. The troops in two lines followed

-

DREADFUL EXECUTIONS. 51

both sides of the street, and left the road free ; in the mean
time the Panpangas regiment, crossing the bridge, reached us
by one of the opposite streets : the rebels were then exposed to
the opposite attacks. They nevertheless defended themselves
furiously, and their sharpshooters did us some harm. No vales
was everywhere, encouraging his soldiers by words, exploits,
and example, while Lieutenant Ruiz was busy pointing one of
the cannons, that swept the middle of the street we were
coming up. At length, after three hours' contest, the rebels
succumbed. The troops fell upon everything they found,
and Novales was taken prisoner to the governor's. As to
Ruiz, although he had received a blow on his arm from a ball,
he was fortunate enough to jump over the fortifications, and
succeeded, for the time, in escaping; three days afterwards he
was taken. The conflict was scarcely over, than a court-martial
was held. Novales was tried the first. At midnight he was out
lawed ; at two o'clock in the morning proclaimed Emperor; and
at five in the evening shot. Such changes in fortune are not
uncommon in Spanish colonies.

The court-martial, without adjourning, tried, until the
middle of the following day, all the prisoners arrested with
arms. The tenth part of the regiment was sent to the hulks,
and all the non-commissioned officers were condemned to
death. I received orders to be at Government Place by four
o'clock, on which spot the executions were to take place ; two
companies of each battalion of the garrison, and all the staff,
were to be present.

Towards five the doors of the town-hall opened, and
between a double file of soldiers advanced seventeen non
commissioned officers, each one assisted by two monks of the
order of Misericordia. Mournful silence prevailed, interrupted

J2 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

every now and then by the doleful beating of the drums, and
the prayers of the agonising, chanted by the monks. The
procession moved slowly on, and after some time reached the
palace ; the seventeen non-commissioned officers were ordered
to kneel, their faces turned towards the wall. After a lengthened
beating of the drums the monks left their victims, and at a
second beating a discharge of muskets resounded : the seven
teen young men fell prostrate on the ground. One, however,
was not dead; he had fallen with the others, and seemed
apparently motionless. A few minutes after the monks threw
their black veils upon the victims : they now belonged to Divine
justice. I witnessed all that had just happened. I stood a
few steps from him who feigned death so well, and my heart
beat with force enough to burst through my chest. Would
that it had been in my power to lead one of the monks
towards this unfortunate young man who must have experienced
such mortal anguish ; but, alas ! after having been so mira
culously spared, at the moment the black veil was about to cover
him, an officer informed the commander that a guilty man
had escaped being punished ; the monks were arrested in their
pious ministry, and two soldiers received orders to approach
and fire upon the poor fellow.

I was indignant at this. I advanced towards the informer
and reproached him for his cruelty; he wished to reply; I
treated him as a coward, and turned my back to him. Express
orders from my colonel compelled me to leave my house, to
assist at this frightful execution; still, deep anxiety ought to
have prevented me from so doing, as I will explain. On the eve
when the battle was over, and the insurgents routed, the dis
tress of my dear Anna came across my mind. It was now
one o'clock in the afternoon, and she had received no tidings

ILLNESS AND INSANITY OF MY WIFK. 53

from me since three in the morning ; might she not think me
dead, or in the midst of the rebellion ? Ah ! if duty could
make me forget for a moment she whom I loved more than
life, now all danger was over her charming image returned to
my mind. Dearest Anna ! I beheld her pale, agitated ; asking
herself at each report of the cannon whether it rendered her a
widow ; when my mind became so agitated that I ran home to
calm her fears. Having reached my house I went quickly up
stairs, my heart beating violently; I paused for a moment at
her door, then summoning a little courage I entered. Anna
was kneeling down praying ; hearing my footsteps she raise,!
her head, and threw herself into my arms without uttering a
word At first I attributed this silence to emotion, but, alas !
upon examining her lovely face, I saw her eyes looked wild,
her features contracted : I started back. I discovered in her
all the symptoms of congestion of the brain. I dreaded
lest my wife had lost her senses, and this fear alarmed me
greatly. How fortunate it was that it lay in my power to
relieve her. I had her placed in bed, and ministered myself to
her wants. She was tolerably composed ; the few words she
uttered were inconsistent ; she seemed to think that somebody
was going to poison or kill her. All her confidence was placed
in me. During three days the remedies I prescribed and
administered were useless ; the poor creature derived no
benefit from them. I therefore determined to consult tbo
doctors in Manilla, although 1 had no great opinion of their
skill. They advised some insignificant drugs, and declared to
me that there were no hopes, adding, as a philosophical mode
of consolation, that death was preferable to the loss of reason.
I did not agree on this point with these gentlemen : I would
have preferred insanity to death, for I hoped that her madness

54 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

would die away by degrees, and eventually disappear altogether
How many mad people are cured, what numbers daily recover*
yet death is the last word of humanity ; and, as a young poet
has truly said, is "the stone of the tomb."

Between the world and God a curtain falls ! I determined
to wage a war against death, and to save my Anna by having
recourse to the most indisputable resources of science. I
looked now upon my brotherhood with more contempt than
ever, and, confident in my love and zealous will, I began my
struggle with a destiny, tinged indeed with gloomy clouds. I
shut myself up in the sick-chamber, and never left my wife.
I had great difficulty in getting her to take the medicaments I
trusted she would derive so much benefit from ; I was obliged
to call to my assistance all the influence I had over her, in
order to persuade her that the draughts I presented to her
were not poisoned. She did not sleep, but appeared very
drowsy; these symptoms denoted very clearly great disorder of
the brain. For nine days she remained in this dreadful state ;
during which time I scarcely knew whether she was dead or
alive ; at every moment I besought the Almighty to work a
miracle in her behalf. One morning the poor creature
closed her eyes. I cannot describe my feelings of anguish.
Would she ever awake again? I leant over her; I heard
her breathing gently, without apparent effort; I felt her
pulse, it beat calmer and more regular; she was evidently
better. I stood by her in deep anxiety. She still remained
in a calm sleep, and at the end of half-an-hour 1 felt con
vinced that this satisfactory crisis would restore my invalid
to life and reason. I sat down by her bed-side, and stayed there
eighteen hours, watching her slightest movements. At length,
after such cruel suspense, my patient awoke, as if out of a dream.

HER RECOVERY AND RELAPSE. 65

"Have you been long watching?" she said, giving me her
hand : " Have I, then, been very ill ? What care you have taken
of me ! Luckily you may rest now, for I feel I am recovered."

I think I have during my life been a sharer of the
strongest emotions of joy or of sadness man can feel ; but
never had I experienced such real, heartfelt joy as when I
heard Anna's words. It is easy to imagine the state of my
mind in recollecting the -bitter grief I was in for ten days ;
then can be understood the mental anguish 1 felt. Having
witnessed such strange scenes for a considerable time, it would
not have been surprising had I lost my senses. I was an
actor in a furious battle; I had seen the wounded falling
around me, and heard the death-rattle. After the frightful
execution, I went home, and there still deeper grief awaited
me. I had watched by the bed-side of a beloved wife, know
ing not whether I should lose her for ever, or see her spared
to me deprived of reason ; when all at once, as if by a miracle,
this dear companion of my life, restored to health, threw
herself into my arms. I wept with her ; my burning eyes,
aching for want of rest, found at last some tears, but they
were tears of joy and gladness. Soon we became more com
posed ; we related to each other all that we had suffered. Oh !
the sympathy of loving hearts ! Our sorrows had been the
same, we had shared the same fears, she for me and I for
her. Anna's rapid recovery, after her renovating slumber,
enabled her to get up; she dressed herself as usual, and
the people who saw her could not believe she had passed
ten days struggling between death and insanity — two gulplis,
from which love and faith had preserved us.

I was happy ; my deep sadness was speedily changed tc
gladness, even visible on my features. Alas! this joy was trail

50 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PH1LIPF1N KS.

sitory, like all happiness ; man here below is a continual prey
to misfortune ! My wife, at the end of a month, relapsed into
her former sickly state; the same symptoms showed them--
selves again, with similar prospects, during the same space
of time. I remained again nine clays at her bed-side, and
on the tenth a refreshing sleep brought her to her senses
But this time, guided by experience, that pitiless mistress, who
gives us lessons we should ever remember, I did not rejoice
as I had done the month before. I feared lest this sudden
cure might only be a temporary recovery, and that every
month my poor invalid would relapse, until her brain becoming
weaker and weaker, she would be deranged for life. This sad
idea wounded my heart, and caused me such grief that I
could not even dissimulate it before her who inspired it. I
exhausted all the resources of medicine ; all these expedients
proved unavailable. I thought that perhaps, if I removed my
poor invalid from the spot where the events had occurred that
caused her disorder, her cure might be more easily effected ;
that perhaps bathing and country walks in the fine weather
would contribute to hasten her recovery ; therefore I invited
one of her relations to accompany us, and we set out for Tierra-
Alta, a delightful spot, a real oasis, where all things were
assembled that could endear one to life. The first days of
our settling there were full of joy, hope, and happiness.
Anna got better and better every day, and her health very
much improved. We walked in beautiful gardens, under the
shade of orange-trees ; they were so thick that even during the
most intense heat we were cool under their shade. A lovely
river of blue and limpid water ran through our orchard ; I
had some Indian baths erected there. We went out in a
pretty, light, open carriage, drawn by four good horses, through

DANGEROUS NEIGHBOURS — REPENTANT BANDITTI. 57

beautiful avenues, lined on each side with the pliant bamboo,
and sown with all the various flowers of the tropics. I leave
you to judge, by this short account, that nothing that can be
wished for in the country was wanting in Tierra-Alta. For
un invalid it was a Paradise ; but those are right who say
there is no perfect happiness here below. I had a wife I
adored, and who loved me with all the sincerity of a pure
young heart. We lived in an Eden, away from the world,
from the noise and bustle of a city, and far, too, from the
jealous and envious. We breathed a fragrant air; the pure and
limpid waters that bathed our feet reflecting, by turns a sunny
sky, and one spangled with twinkling stars. Anna's health was
improving: it pleased me to see her so happy. What, then,
was there to trouble us in our lovely retreat? A troop of
banditti ! These robbers were distributed around the suburbs
of Tierra-Alta, and spread desolation over the country and
neighbourhood by the robberies and murders they com
mitted. There was a regiment in search of them ; this they
little cared about. They were numerous, clever, and audacious ;
and, notwithstanding the vigilance of the government, the band
continued their highway robberies and assassinations. In the
house where I then resided, and which I afterwards left,
Aguilar, the commander of the cavalry, who had replaced
me as occupant, was fallen upon unexpectedly, and stabbed.
Several years after this period, the government was obliged
to come to some terms with these bandits, and one day twenty
men, all armed with carbines and swords, entered Manilla.
Their chieftain led them ; they walked with their heads upright,
their carriage was proud and manly ; in this order they went
to the governor, who made them a speech, ordered them to
lay down their arms, and sent them to the archbishop that

c*

58 TWENTY YEAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

he might exhort them. The archbishop in a religious discourse
implored of them to repent of their crimes, and become honest
citizens, and to return to their villages. These men, who had
bathed their hands in the blood of their fellow-creatures, and
who had sought in crime — or rather, in every crime — the gold
they coveted, listened attentively to God's minister, changed
completely their conduct, and became, in the end, good and
quiet husbandmen.

Now let us return to my residence at Tierra-Alta, at the
period when the bandits were not converted, and might have
disturbed my peaceful abode and security. Nevertheless,
whether it was carelessness, or the confidence I had in my
Indian, with whom I spe.nt some time after the ravages
occasioned with the cholera, and with whose influence I was
acquainted, I did not fear the bandits at all. This Indian
lived a few leagues off from Tierra-Alta ; he came often to
see me, and said to me on different occasions : " Fear nothing
from the robbers, Senor Doctor Pablo ; they know we are friends,
and that alone would suffice to prevent them attacking you,
for they would dread to displease me, and to make me their
enemy." These words put an end to my fears, and I soon
had an opportunity of seeing that the Indian had taken me
under his protection.

If any of rny readers for whom I write these souvenirs
feel the same desire as I experienced to visit the cascades oi
Tierra-Alta, let them go to a place called Yang- Yang ; it was
near this spot where my Indian protector resided. At this
part the river, obstructed in its course by the narrowness of
its channel, falls from only one waterspout, about thirty or
forty feet high, into an immense basinj out of which the water
p.alroly flows onwards, to form, lower down, three other water

FORTUNATE ESCAPE — ANONYMOUS FRIEND. 59

falls, not so lofty, but extending over the breadth of the river,
thereby making three sheets of water, clear and transparent
as crystal. What beautiful sights are offered to the eyes of
man by the all-powerful hands of the Creator ! And how often
have I remarked that the works of nature are far superior
to those that men tire themselves to erect and invent !

As we went one morning to the cascades we w?ere about
to alight at Yang- Yang, when all at once our carriage was
surrounded with brigands, flying from the soldiers of the line.
The chief — for we supposed him to be so at first — said to
his companions, not paying the slightest attention to us, nor
even addressing us : " We must kill the horses ! " By this
I saw he feared lest their enemies should make use of our
horses to pursue them. WTith a presence of mind which fortu
nately never abandons me in difficult or perilous cicumstances,
I said to him : " Do not fear ; my horses shall not be used by
your enemies to pursue you : rely upon my word." The chief
put his hand to his cap, and thus addressed his comrades : " If
such be the case, the Spanish soldiers will do us no harm to
day, neither let us do any. Follow me ! " They marched off,
and I instantly drove rapidly away in quite an opposite direc
tion from the soldiers. The bandits looked after rne ; my good
faith in keeping my word was successful. I not only lived a few
months in safety at Tierra-Alta, but many years after, when
I resided in Jala-Jala, and, in my quality of commander of the
territorial horse-guards of the province of Lagune, was naturally
a declared enemy of the bandits, I received the following note :

" SIB, — Beware of Pedro Tumbaga; we are invited by him to go
to your house and to take you by surprise ; we remember the morning
we spoke to you at the cascades, and the sincerity of your word.
You are an honourable man. If we find ourselves face to face

60 TWENTY TEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

with you, and it be necessary, we will fight, but faithfully, and
never after having laid a snare. Keep, therefore, on your guard ;
beware of Pedro Tumbago; he is cowardly enough to hide himself
in order to shoot you."

Everybody must acknowledge I had to do with most
polite robbers.

I answered them thus :

" You are brave fellows. 1 thank you for your advice, but I
do not fear Pedro Tumboga. I cannot conceive how it is you keep
among you a man capable of hiding himself to kill his enemy;
if I had a soldier like him, I would soon let him have justice, and
without consulting the law."

A fortnight after my answer, Tumbaga was no more ; a
bandit's bullet disembarrassed me of him.

I will now return to the recital I have just interrupted.
When T had left the bandits at Yang- Yang, I pulled up my
horses and bethought me of Anna. I was anxious to know what
impression had been produced on her mind from this un
pleasant encounter. Fortunately my fears were unfounded ;
my wife had not been at all alarmed, and when I asked her
if she was frightened, she replied : " Frightened, indeed ! am I
riot with you ?" Subsequently I had good proofs that she told
me the truth, for in many perilous circumstances she always
presented the same presence of mind. When I thought there
was no longer any danger we retraced our steps and went home,
satisfied with the conduct of the bandits towards us, for their
manner of acting clearly showed us that they intended us no
harm. I mentally thanked my Indian friend, for to him I
attributed the peace our turbulent neighbours allowed us to
enjoy. The fatal time was drawing near when my wrife would
again be suffering from another attack of that frightful malady

DOMESTIC HAPPINESS RESTORED 61

brought on by Novales revolt. I had hoped that the country
air, the baths, and amusements of every kind would cure my
poor invalid ; my hopes were deceived, and, as in the preceding
month, I had the grief once more to assist at a period of
physical and mental suffering. I despaired : I knew not what
course to pursue. I decided, however, upon remaining at
Tierra-Alta. My dear companion was happy there on the days
her health was better, and on the other days I never left her,
endeavouring by every means that art and imagination could
invent to fight against this fatal malady. At length my care,
attempts, and efforts were successful, and at the periods the
symptoms usually returned I had the happiness not to observe
them, and believed in the certainty of a final cure. I then
felt the joy one experiences after having for a long time been
on the point of losing a very dear friend, who suddenly recovers.
I now gave myself up without fear to the various pleasures
Tierra-Alta offers.

^ffi^

Stag hunting in tiie Marigondon Mountains.

CHAPTER TV.

Hunting the Stag— Indian Mode of Chasing the Wild Buffalo ; its Ferocity-
Dangerous Sport — Capture of a Buffalo — Narrow Escape of an Indian Iluntei
— Return to Manilla — Injustice of the Governor — My Resignation of Office —
I Purchase Property at Jala-Jala — Retire from Manilla to Take Possession of
my Domains— Chinese Legend — Festival of St. Nicholas — Quinaboutasan —
Description of Jala-Jala — Interview with a Bandit Chief — Formation of a
Guard — Preparations for Building — Visit to Manilla, and Return to Jala-Jala
— Completion of my House — Reception of my Wife by the Natives — The
Government of the Philippines — Character of the Tagaloc Indians — Un
merited Chastisement — A Curate Appointed — Our Labours at Civilisation —
My Hall of Justice — Buffalo Hunting Expedition.

VTATURALLY fond of hunting, I often went to the home of
TV my Indian friend in the Marigondon mountains To
gether we chased the stag, and killed the various kinds of birds
which abound in these regions to such an extent that one may

HUNTING THE STAG. 03

always choose between fifteen or twenty different species of
pigeons, wild ducks, and fowl, and it frequently happened that
I brought down five or six at a shot. The manner of killing
wild fowl (a sort of pheasant) much amused me. We rode
across the large plains, strewed with young wood, on good and
beautiful horses, broken in for the purpose ; the dogs raised the
game, and, armed with whips, we endeavoured to knock the birds
down at a single blow, which is not so difficult as might be
imagined. When a number of the frightened flocks left the
shelter of the wood we put our steeds to the gallop, and it
became a veritable steeple-chase, such as amateur jockeys
would much delight in. I also hunted the stag with the lance,
on horseback ; this sport is likewise very amusing, but, unfor
tunately, often attended with accidents. This is how they
occur : — The horses employed are so well trained to the sport,
that as soon as they perceive the stag it is no longer necessary,
neither is it possible, to guide them ; they pursue the animal
at the top of their speed, and leap over every obstruction
before them. The horseman carries a lance seven or eight
feet long, which he holds in readiness to cast as soon as he
thinks himself within reach of the stag. If he misses his
aim the lance sticks in the ground, and it then requires great
skill to avoid coming in contact with the opposite end, which
often wounds either the hunter or the horse. I speak not of
the falls to which one is liable from going at a furious gallop
along unknown and uneven roads. I had already enjoyed this
sport during my first sojourn at the Indian's, but, well as 1
acquitted myself, I was never able to gain his permission that
I should assist at a chase far more dangerous, and which 1
might almost call a combat — that of the wild buffalo To all
my questions my host had replied : "In this sport there is

64 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

much to fear: I would not expose you to the risk." He
avoided, also, taking me near that part of the plain touching
upon the mountains of Marigondon, where these animal's
could generally be found. However, after repeated solicitation,
I managed to obtain what I so ardently desired ; the Indian
only wished to know whether I was a good horseman, if 1
possessed dexterity ; and when he had satisfied himself on these
two points, we started one fine morning, accompanied by nine
huntsmen and a small pack of dogs. Ill this part of the
Philippines the buffalo is hunted on horseback, and taken with
the lasso, the Indians not being much accustomed to the use
of guns. In other parts fire-arms are used, as I shall have
occasion to recount in another part of my narrative ; but, in
whichever case, there is little difference in the danger, for
the one requires good riding and great skill, the other much
presence of mind and a good gun.

The wild buffalo is quite different from the domesti
cated- animal ; it is a terrible creature, pursuing the hunter
as soon as it gets sight of him, and, should he transfix
him with its terrible horns, he would promptly expiate his
rashness. My faithful Indian was much more anxious
about my safety than his own. He objected to my taking
a gun ; he had little confidence in my skill with the lasso,
and preferred that I should merely sit on horseback, un
armed and unencumbered in my movements ; accordingly I
set out, with a dagger for my sole weapon. We divided our
party by threes, and rode gently about the plains, taking care
to keep at a distance from the edge of the wood, lest we
should be surprised by the animal we were seeking.

After riding for about an hour, we at last heard the baying
of the dogs, and understood that the enemy was forced from its

DANGEROUS SPOUT. 05

forest retreat. We watched with the deepest attention the spot
where we expected him to break forth. He required a great deal
of coaxing before he would show ; at last there was a sudden
crashing noise in the wood ; branches were broken, young trees
overthrown, and a superb buffalo showed himself, at about one
hundred and fifty paces' . distance. He was of a beautiful
black, and his horns were of very large dimensions. He
carried his head high, and snuffed the air as though scenting
his enemies. Suddenly starting off at a speed incredible in
so bulky an animal, he made for one of our groups, composed
of three Indians, who immediately put their horses to a gallop,
and distributed themselves in the form of a triangle. The-
buffalo selected one of them, and impetuously charged him.
As he did so, another of the Indians, whom he passed in
his furious career, wheeled his horse and threw the lasso he
held ready in his hand ; but he was not expert, and missed his
aim. Thereupon the buffalo changed his course, and pur
sued the imprudent man who had thus attacked him, and who
now rode right in our direction. A second detachment of three
hunters went to meet the brute ; one of them passed near him
at a gallop, and threw his lasso, but was as unsuccessful as his
comrade. Three other hunters made the attempt ; not one of
them succeeded. I, as a mere spectator, looked on with ad
miration at this combat — at those evolutions, flights, and pur
suits, executed with such order and courage, and with a precision
that was truly extraordinary.

I had often witnessed bull-fights, and often had I shuddered
at seeing the toreadors adopt a similar method in order to turn
the furious animal from the pursuit of the picador. But what
comparison could possibly be established between a combat in
an enclosed arena and this one in the open plain — between the

E

C6 TWENJff YEARS IN THE FHILJrriNES.

most terrible of bulls and a wild buffalo ? Fiery and hot-
blooded Spaniards, proud Castilians, eager for perilous spec
tacles, go, hunt the buffalo in the plains of the Marigondon •
After much flight and pursuit, hard riding, and imminent peril,
a dexterous hunter encircled the animal's horns with his lasso
The buffalo slackened his speed, and shook and tossed his
head, stopping now and then to try to get rid of the obstacle
which impeded his career. Another Indian, not less skilfiL
than his predecessor, threw his lasso with a like rapidity and
success. The furious beast now ploughed the earth with his
horns, making the soil fly around him, as if anxious to display
his strength, and to show what havoc he would have made with
any of us who had allowed themselves to be surprised by him.
With much care and precaution the Indians conveyed their
prize into a neighbouring thicket. The hunters uttered a
shout of joy ; for my part I could not repress a cry of admi
ration. The animal was vanquished ; it needed but a few pro
cautions to master him completely. I was much surprised to
see the Indians excite him with voice and gesture until he re
sumed the offensive, and bounded from the ground with fury
What would have been our fate had he succeeded in shaking
off or breaking the lassos ! Fortunately, there was no danger of
this. An Indian dismounted, and, with great agility, attached
to the trunk of a solid tree the two lassos that retained the savage
beast ; then he gave the signal that his office was accomplished,
and retired. Two hunters approached, threw their lassos over
the animal, and fixed the ends to the ground with stakes ; and
now our prey was thoroughly subdued, and reduced to immo
bility, so that we could approach him with impunity. With
blows of their cutlasses the Indians hacked off his horns,
which would so well have revenged him had he been free to use

NARROW ESCAPE OF AN INDIAN -HUNTER. 67

them ; then, with a pointed bamboo, they pierced the mem
branes that separate the nostrils, and passed through them a
cane twiste in the form of a ring. In this state of martyrdom
they fastened him securely behind two tame buffaloes, and led
him to the next village.

Here the animal was killed, and the hunters divided the
carcass, the flesh of which is equal in flavour to beef. I had
been fortunate in my first essay, for such encounters with these
shaggy sovereigns of the plain do not always end so easily. A
few days afterwards we renewed the sport, which, alas ! termi
nated with an accident of too frequent occurrence. An Indian
was surprised by a buffalo, at the moment the animal issued
from the wood. With one blow from his horns the horse was
impaled and cast to the earth, while his Indian rider fell near
to him. The inequality of the ground offered some chance 01
the man escaping the notice of his redoubtable foe, until the
latter, by a sudden movement of his head, turned the horse over
upon his rider, and inflicted several blows with his horns, either
of which would have proved fatal, but from the force becoming
diminished in traversing the carcass of the horse. Fortunately
some of the other sportsmen succeeded in turning the animal, and
compelled him to abandon his victim. It was indeed time, for
we found the poor Indian half dead, and terribly gored by the
horns of the buffalo. We succeeded in stopping the blood which
flowed copiously from his wounds, and carried him to the
village upon a hastily constructed litter. It was only by con
siderable care and attention that his cure was eventually effected,
and my friend the Indian strongly opposed my assisting at such
dangerous sport for the future.

Anna's health was now completely re-established. I no
longer dreaded the return of her fearful malaclv. During the

H TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

space of several months I had enjoyed all the pleasures that
Tierra-AHa afforded, and my affairs now requiring my presence
at Manilla we set out for that city. Immediately after my
arrival I was compelled, mucli to my regret, to resume my
ordinary occupation ; that is, to visit the sick from morning to
night, and from night to morning. My profession did not well
accord with my natural character, for I was not sufficiently
philosophic to witness, without pain, the sufferings I was in
capable of alleviating, and, above all, to watch the death-beds
of fathers, c£ mothers, and of dearly loved children. In a
word, I did not act professionally, for I never sent in my bills ;
my patients paid me when and how they could. To their
honour, I am bound to say that I rarely had to complain of
forgetfulness. Besides, my appointments permitted me to
live sumptuously, to have eight horses in my stables, and to
keep open house to my friends and the strangers who visited
Manilla. Soon, however, what my friends designated a coup-
de-tete caused me to lose all these advantages.

Every month I summoned a council of revision in the
regiment to which I belonged. One day I brought forward
a young soldier for rejection ; all went well ; but a native
surgeon, long jealous of my reputation, was nominated by the
governor to make inquiry and check my declaration. He
naturally inserted in his report that I was deceived ; that the
malady of which I spoke was imaginary ; and he succeeded it
all this so well that the governor, enraged, condemned me in
a penalty of six piasters. The following month I again
brought forward the same soldier, as being incapable of per
forming his duties ; a commission of eight surgeons was nomi
nated ; their decision was unanimous in my favour, and the
soldier was accordingly discharged. This reparation not quite

MY RESIGNATION OF OFFICE. 69

satisfying me, I presented an appeal to the governor, who \vould
not receive it, upon the strange pretext that the decision of
the medical committee could not annul his. I confess that I
did not understand this argument. This method of reasoning,
if reasoning it was, appeared to me specious in the extreme.
Why allow the innocent to suffer, and thejgnorant practitioner,
who had contradicted my opinions and deceived himself, to
escape ? This injustice revolted me. I am a Breton, and ]
have lived with Indians — two natures which love only right and
justice. I was so much annoyed by the governor's conduct
towards me that I went to him, not to make another recla
mation, but to tender my resignation of the important offices
which I held. He received me with a specious smile, and told
me that after a little reflection I should change my rnind.
The poor governor, however, was deceived, for, on leaving his
palace, I wrent direct to the minister of finance and purchased
the property of Jala- Jala. My course was marked out, my
resolution unshakable. Although my resignation was not yet
duly accepted, I began to act as though I was completely free.
I had at the beginning informed Anna of the matter, and had
asked her if she would reside at Jala-Jala. " With you I
should be happy anywhere." Such was her answer. I was
free, then, to act as I pleased, and could go wherever my
destiny might lead me. I forthwith decided upon visiting the
land that I had purchased.

For the execution of this project it was necessary to find
a faithful Indian upon whom I could rely. From among my
domestics I chose the coachman, a brave and discreet man,
who was devoted to me. I took some arms, ammunition, and
provisions. At Lapindan, a small village near the town of
SuntaAnna, I freighted a small boat worked bv three Indians:

70

TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

t i-v.sge-bc&t en the River I'aiig.

and one morning, without making my project known to my
friends, and without inquiring whether the governor had re
placed me, I set out to take possession of my domains, respir
ing the vivifying and pure air of liberty. I ascended in my
pirogue — -which skimmed along the surface of the wraters like a
sea-gull — the pretty river Pasig, which issues from the lake of
Bay, and traverses, on its way to the sea, the suburbs of Manilla.
The banks of this river are planted with thickets of bamboo,
and studded with pretty Indian habitations ; above the large
town of Pasig it receives the waters of the river St. Mateo, at
the spot where that river unites itself with that of the Pasig.
Upon the left bank are still seen the ruins of the chapel and
parsonage of St. Nicholas, built by the Chinese, as the legend
I am about to relate informs us

FESTIVAL OF ST. NICHOLAS. 71

At an unknown epoch, a Chinese who was once sailing
in a canoe, either upon the river Pasig, or that of St.
Mateo, suddenly perceived an alligator making for his frail
bark, which it immediately capsized. On his finding him
self thus plunged in the water, the unfortunate Chinese,
whose only prospect was that of making a meal for the
ferocious animal, invoked the aid of St. Nicholas. You, per
haps, would not have done so, nor I either ; and we should
have been wrong, for the idea was a good one. The good St.
Nicholas listened to the cries of the unhappy castaway, appeared
to his wondering eyes, and with a stroke of a wand, like some
benevolent fairy, changed the threatening crocodile into a rock,
and the Chinese was saved. But do not imagine that the
legend ends here ; the Chinese are not an ungrateful people —
China is the land of porcelain, of tea, and of gratitude. The
Chinese who had thus escaped from the cruel fate that awaited
him, felt desirous of consecrating the memory of the miracle ;
and, in concert with his brethren of Manilla, he built a pretty
chapel and parsonage in honour of the good St. Nicholas.
This chapel was for a long time officiated in by a bonze ; and
every year, at the festival of the saint, the rich Chinese of
Manilla assembled there in thousands, to give a series of fetes
which lasted for fifteen days. But it happened that an arch
bishop of Manilla, looking upon this worship offered up by
Chinese gratitude as nothing but paganism, caused both the
chapel and parsonage to be unroofed. These harsh measures
had no other result than to admit the rain into the buildings ;
but the worship due to St. Nicholas still continued, and remains
to this day. Perhaps this arises from the attempt to sup
press it !

At present, at the period when this festival takes place —

72 TWENTY YEARS IN TI1E PHILIPPINES.

that is, about the 6th of November every year — a delightful
view presents itself. During the night large vessels may be
seen, upon which are built palaces actually several stories high,
terminating in pyramids, and lit up from the base to the
summit. All these lights are reflected in the placid waters of
the river, and seem to augment the number of the stars, whose
tremulous images dance on the surface of the waters : it is an
extemporised Venice ! In these palaces they give themselves
up to play, to smoking opium, and to the pleasures of music.
The pevete, a species of Chinese incense, is burning everywhere
and at all times in honour of St. Nicholas, who is invoked
every morning by throwing into the river small square pieces
of paper of various colours. St. Nicholas, however, does not
make his appearance ; but the fete continues for a fortnight,
at the termination of which the faithful retire till the year
following.

And now that the reader is acquainted with the legend of
the crocodile, of the Chinese, and of the good St. Nicholas, I
will resume my voyage.

I sailed on peaceably upon the Pasig, proceeding to the con
quest of my new dominions, and indulging in golden dreams.
I gazed on the light smoke of my cigarette, without reflecting
that my dreams, my castles in the air, must evaporate like it !
I. soon found myself in the lake of Bay. The lake occupies an
extent of thirty leagues, and I greatly admired this fine sheet
of water, bounded in the distance by mountains of fantastic
forms. At length I arrived at Quinaboutasan — this is a Tagal
word, which signifies " that which is perforated." Quinaboutasan
is situated on a strait, which separates the island of Talem from
the continent. We stopped for an hour in the only Indian hut
there was in the place, to cook some rire and take our repast.

DESCRIPTION OF JALA-JALA. 73

This hut was inhabited by a very old fisherman and his wife.
They were still, however, able to supply their wants by fishing.
At a later period I shall have occasion to speak of old Re-
lempago, or the " Thunderer," and to recount his history.
When I was in the centre of the sheet of water which separates
Talera from Jala-Jala, I came in sight of the new domain
which I had so easily acquired, and I could form some opinion
of my acquisition at a glance. Jala-Jala is a long peninsula,
extending from north to south, in the middle of the lake of
Bay. This peninsula is divided longitudinally for the space of
three leagues by a chain of mountains, which diminish gradually
in height till they become mere hillocks. These mountains,
are easy of access, and generally covered on one side with forests,
and on the other with fine pasturage, abounding with waving
and flexible grass, three or four feet high, which, agitated by the
breeze, resembles the waves of the sea when in motion. It is
impossible to find more splendid vegetation, which is watered
by pure and limpid springs that gush from the mountain
heights, and roll in a meandering course to join the waters of the
lake. These pasture grounds constitute Jala-Jala the greatest
game preserve in the island : wild boars, deer, buffaloes, fowls,
quail, snipe, pigeons of fifteen or twenty different varieties,
parrots — in short all sorts of birds abound in them. The lake
is equally well supplied with aquatic birds, and particularly
wild ducks. Notwithstanding its extent, the island produces
neither noxious nor carnivorous animals ; the only things to be
apprehended are the civet cat, which only preys upon birds,
and the monkeys, which issue in troops from the forests to
ravage the fields of maize and sugar-cane. The lake, which
abounds with excellent fish, is less favoured in this respect
than the land, for it contains numerous crocodiles and alliga-

D

74 TWENTY YEA11S IN THE PHILIPPINES.

tors, of such, immense size that in a few moments one of them
can tear a horse to pieces, and swallow it in its monstrous
stomach. The accidents they occasion are frequent and terrible,
and I have seen many Indians become their victims, as I shall
subsequently relate. I ought, doubtless, to have begun by
speaking of the human beings who inhabited the forests of
Jala-Jala, but I am a sportsman, and must therefore be excused
for beginning with the game.

At the time I purchased it Jala-Jala was inhabited by some
Malay Indians, who lived in the woods, and cultivated a few
spots of ground. During the night they carried on the trade of
piracy, and gave shelter to all the banditti of the neigh
bouring provinces. At Manilla this country had been described
to me in the most gloomy colours. According to the citizens
of that place it would not be long before I fell a victim to these
robbers. My adventurous disposition, however, only made all
these predictions, instead of frightening me, increase my desire
to visit these men, who lived in an almost savage state. As
soon as I had purchased Jala-Jala, I had laid down a line of
conduct for myself, the object of which was to attach to me
such of the inhabitants as were the most to be dreaded. I re
solved to become the friend of these banditti, and for this
purpose I knew that I must go amongst them, not like a sordid
and exacting landlord but like a father. For the execution of
my enterprise, everything depended on the first impression that
I should make on these Indians, who had become my vassals.
When I had landed, I directed my steps along the borders of
the lake, towards a little hamlet composed of a few cabins. I
was accompanied by my faithful coachman ; we were both
armed with a good double-barreled gun, a brace of pistols, and
a sabre. I had taken the precaution of ascertaining from some

INTERVIEW WITH A BANDIT CHIEF. 75

fishermen the name of the Indian to whom I should especially
address myself. This man, who was the most respected amongst
his countrymen, was called in the Tagal language, " Mabutiu-
Tajo," which may be translated the " bravest of the brave" he
was a thorough-paced robber, a real piratical chief : a fellow that
would not hesitate to commit five or six murders in one expedi
tion ; but he was brave, and with a primitive people bravery
is a quality before which they bow with respect. My conference
with Mabutiu-Tajo was not long. A few words were enough to
win me his favour, and to make him my faithful servant during
the whole time I remained at Jala-Jala. This is the manner
in which I spoke to him : " You are a great villain," I said ;
" I am the lord of Jala-Jala. I insist on your changing your
conduct ; if you refuse, I shall punish you for all your mis
deeds. E have occasion for a guard : will you pledge me your
honour to become an honest man, and I will make you my
lieutenant ?"

After these few words, Alila (this was the name of the
robber) continued silent for a few moments, while his coun
tenance displayed the marks of profound reflection. I awaited
his answer with considerable anxiety and doubt as to what it
would be.

" Master," he at length replied, with enthusiasm, presenting
me his hand, and bending one knee to the ground : " I shall
be faithful to you till death !"

His answer made me happy, but I did not let him see
my satisfaction.

"Well and good," I replied; "to show you that I confide
in you, take this weapon, and use it only against the enemy."

I gave him a Tagal sabre, which bore the following Spanish
inscription, in large letters : " No me sacas sin rason, ni me

TWENTY YEARS IN TIIE PHILIPPINES.

envainas sin honor." " Never draw me unjustly, and never
sheath me with dishonour."

I translated this legend into the Tagaloc language : Alila
thought it sublime, and vowed never to deviate from it.

" When I go to Manilla," I added, " I shall procure you a
handsome uniform, with epaulettes ; but you must lose no
time in assembling the soldiers you will have to command, and
who are to form my guard. Conduct me to the house of one
of your comrades whom you think most capable of obeying
you as Serjeant." We went some distance from his cabin to
the hut of one of his friends, who almost always accompanied
him in his piratical excursions. A few words like those I had
spoken to my future lieutenant produced a similar influence
on his comrade, and induced him to accept the rank I offered
him. We occupied the day in recruiting amongst the various
huts, and in the evening we had a guard of ten effective men,
infantry and cavalry, a number I did not wish to exceed.

Of these I took the command as captain; and thus, as
will be seen, I went promptly to work. The following day I
assembled the population of the peninsula, and, surrounded by
my extempore guard, I chose a situation where I wished to
found a village, and a site on which I wished my own habita
tion to be built. I ordered the heads of families to construct
their huts on an allotment which I indicated, and I directed
my lieutenant to employ as many hands as possible, to quarry
stones, to cut down timber for the wood- work, and .to prepare
everything in short for my house. Having issued my orders,
I departed for Manilla, promising to return soon. When
I reached home, I found them in a state of inquietude, for, as
nothing had been heard of me, it was thought I had fallen a
prey to the crocodiles, or a victim to the pirates. The recital

VISIT TO MANILLA RETURN TO JALA-JALA. 77

of my journey, and the description I gave of Jala-Jala, far from
disgusting my wife with the idea I had conceived of inhabit
ing that country, made her, on the contrary, impatient to visit
our estate, and to establish herself there. It was, however,
a farewell she was taking of the capital— of its fetes, its assem
blies, and its pleasures.

I paid a visit to the governor. My resignation had been
considered as null and void : he had preserved all my places
for me. I was touched by this goodness. I sincerely thanked
him, but told him that I was really in earnest, that my reso
lution was irrevocably fixed, and that he might otherwise dis
pose of my employments. I added, that I only asked him for
one favour, that of commanding all the local gendarmerie of
the province of La Lagune, with the privilege of having a
personal guard, which I would form myself. This favour was
instantly granted, and a few days after I received my com
mission. It was not ambition that suggested to me the idea
of asking for this important post, but sound reason. My object
wns to establish an authority for myself at Jala-Jala, and to
have in my own hands the power of punishing my Indians,
without recurring to the justice of the alcaid, who lived ten
leagues away from my dominions.

Wishing to be comfortably settled in my new residence, I
drew out a plan of my house. It consisted of a first-floor, with
five bed-chambers, a large hall, a spacious drawing-room, a ter
race, and bathing rooms. I agreed with a master-mason and a
master carpenter for the construction of it ; and having obtained
arms and uniforms for my guard, I set out again. On arriving
I was received with joy by my Indians, My lieutenant had
punctually executed my orders. A great quantity of material
was prepared, and several Indian huts were already built.

78 TWENTY TEAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

This activity gave me pleasure, as it evinced a desire for
my gratification. I immediately set my labourers to work,
ordering them to clear away the surrounding wood, and I soon
had the pleasure of laying the foundation of my residence ;
I then went to Manilla. The works lasted for eight months,
during which time I passed backwards and forwards continually
from Manilla to Jala-Jala, and from Jala-Jala to Manilla. I
had some trouble, but I was well repaid for it when I saw a
village rise from the earth. My Indians constructed their
huts on the places I had indicated ; they had reserved a site
for a church, and, until this should be built, mass was to be
celebrated in the vestibule of my mansion. At length, after
many journeys to and fro, which gave great uneasiness to my
wife, I was enabled to inform her that the castle of Jala-Jala
was ready to receive its mistress. This was a pleasing piece
of intelligence, for we were soon to be no longer separated.

I quickly sold my horses, my carriages, and useless furni
ture, and freighted a vessel to convey to Jala-Jala all that I
required. Then, having taken leave of my friends, I quitted
Manilla, with the intention of not returning to it but through
absolute necessity. Our journey was prosperous, and on our
arrival, we found my Indians on the shore, hailing with cries
of joy the welcome advent of the " Queen of Jala-Jala" for it
was thus they called my wife.

We devoted the first days after our arrival to installing our
selves in our new residence, which it was necessary to furnish,
and make both useful and agreeable ; this we accordingly
effected. And now that years have elapsed, and I am far re
moved from that period of independence and perfect liberty, I
reflect on the strangeness of my destiny. My wife and I
were the only white and civilised persons in the midst of a

THE GOVERNMENT OF THE PHILIPPINES. 79

bronzed and almost savage population, and yet I felt no appre
hension. I relied on my arms, on my self-possession, and
on the fidelity of my guards. Anna was only aware of a part
of the dangers we incurred, and her confidence in me was so
great, that when by my side she knew not what it was to fear
When I was well established in my house, I undertook a
difficult and dangerous task, that of establishing order amongst
my Indians, and organizing my little town according to the
custom of the Philippine islands. The Spanish laws, with
reference to the Indians, are altogether patriarchal. Every
township is erected, so to speak, into a little republic. Every
year a chief is elected, dependant for affairs of importance on
the governor of the province, whicn latter, in his turn, de
pends on the governor of the Philippine islands. I confess
that I have always considered the mode of government pe
culiar to the Philippines as the most convenient and best
adapted for civilization. The Spaniards, at the period of their
conquest, found it in full operation in the isle of Luzon.

I shall here enter into some details. Every Indian popu
lation is divided into two classes, the noble and the popular.
The first is composed of all Indians who are, or have been
cabessas de barangay, that is to say, collectors of taxes, which
situation is honorary. The taxes established by the Spaniards
are personal. Every Indian of more than twenty-one years of
age pays, in four instalments, the annual sum of three francs ;
which tax is the same to the rich and the poor. At a certain
period of the year, twelve of the cabessas de barangay become
electors, and assembling together with some of the old in
habitants of the township, they elect, by ballot, three of their
number, whose names are forwarded to the governor of the
Philippines. The latter chooses from amongst these names

80 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

whichever he pleases, and confides to him for one year the
functions of gobernadorcillo, or deputy-governor. To distin
guish him from the other Indians, the deputy-governor bears a
gold-headed cane, with which he has a right to strike such of
his fellow-citizens as may have committed slight faults. His
functions partake at the same time of those of mayor, justice
of the peace, and examining magistrate. He watches over good
order and public tranquillity ; he decides, without appeal, suits
and differences of no higher importance than sixteen piasters
(£3 6s. 8d.). He also institutes criminal suits of high im
portance, but there his power ceases. The documents con
nected with these suits are sent by him to the governor of
the province, who, in his turn, transmits them to the royal
court of Manilla. The court gives judgment, and the alcaid
carries it into execution. When the election for deputy-governor
takes place, the assembled electors choose all the officials who
are to act under him. These are alguazils, whose number is
proportioned to the population; two witnesses, or assistants,
who are charged with the confirmation of the acts of the
deputy-governor — for without their presence and sanction his
acts would be considered null and void ; a jouds de palma, or
palm judge, with the functions of rural guard ; a vaccinator,
bound to be always furnished with vaccine matter, for new
born children ; and a schoolmaster, charged with public in
struction ; finally, a sort of gendarmerie, to watch banditti and
the state of the roads within the precincts of the commune
and the neighbouring lands. Men, grown up, and without
employment, form a civic guard, who watch over the safety of
the village. This guard indicates the hours of the night, by
blows struck upon a large piece of hollow wood. There is in
each town a parochial house, which is called Casa Real, where

KEL'LECTIONS ON MY PIIESENT POSITION. 81

the deputy-governor resides. He is bound to afford hospi
tality to all travellers who pass through the town, which hos
pitality is like that of the Scotch mountaineers — it is given, but
never sold. During two or three days, the traveller has a right
to lodging, in which he is supplied with a mat, a pillow, salt,
vinegar, wood, cooking vessels, and — paying for the same — all
descriptions of food necessary for his subsistence. If, on his
departure, he should even require horses and guides to con
tinue his journey, they are procured for him. With respect
to the prices of provisions, in order to prevent the abuses so
frequent amongst us, a large placard is fixed up in every Casa
Real, containing a tariff of the market prices of meat, poultry,
fish, fruit, &c. In no case whatever can the deputy-governor
exact any remuneration for the trouble he is at.

Such were the measures that I wished to adopt, and which, it
is true, possessed advantages and disadvantages. The greatest
inconvenience attending them was undoubtedly that of placing
myself in a state of dependence upon the deputy-governor,
whose functions gave him a certain right, for I was his adminis
trator. It is true that my rank, as commandant of all the
gendarmerie of the province, shielded me from any injustice
that might be contemplated against me. I knew ve**y well
that, beyond military service, I could inflict no punishment on
my men without the intervention of the deputy-governor ; but
I had sufficiently studied the Indian character to know that I
could only rule it by the most perfect justice and a well-under
stood severity. But whatever were the difficulties I foresaw,
without any apprehension of the troubles and dangers of every
description that I should have to surmount, I proceeded
straightforward towards the object I had traced out for myself.
The road was sterile and encumbered with rocks ; but I entered

82

TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES

Ta«?al Indians poaiiiliiig noc.

upon it with courage, and I succeeded in obtaining over the
Indians such an influence, that they ultimately obeyed my
voice as they would that of a parent. The character of the
Tagaloc is extremely difficult to define. Lavater and Gall
would have been very much embarrassed by it; for both phy
siognomy and craniology would be, perhaps, equally at a loss
amongst the Philippines.

The natural disposition of the Tagal Indian is a mixture of
vices and virtues, of good and bad qualities. A worthy priest
has said, when speaking of them: "They are great children
and must be treated as if they were little ones."

It is really curious to trace, and still more so to read, the

CHARACTER OF THE TAGALOC INDIANS. 83

moral portrait of a native of the Philippine islands. The
Indian keeps his word, and yet — will it be believed ? — he is a
liar. Anger he holds in horror, he compares it to madness ;
and even prefers drunkenness, which, however, he despises.
He will not hesitate to use the dagger to avenge himself for in
justice ; but what he can least submit to is an insult, even when
merited. When he has committed a fault, he may be punished
with a flogging ; this he receives without a murmur, but he
cannot brook an insult. He is brave, generous, and a fatalist.
The profession of a robber, which he willingly exercises, is
agreeable to him, on account of the life of liberty and adven
ture it affords, and not because it may lead to riches. Gene
rally speaking, the Tagalocs are good fathers and good husbands,
both these qualities being inherent. Horribly jealous of their
wives, but "not in the least of the honour of their daughters ;
and it matters little if the women they marry have com
mitted errors previous to their union. They never ask for a
dowry, they themselves provide it, and make presents to the
parents of their brides. They dislike cowards, but willingly
attach themselves to the man who is brave enough to face
danger. Play is their ruling passion, and they delight in the
combats of animals, especially in cock-fighting. This is a
brief compendium of the character of the people I was about
to govern. My first care was to become master of myself. I
made a firm resolution never to allow a gesture of impatience
to escape me, in their presence, even in the most critical mo
ments, and to preserve at all times unshaken calmness and
sang-froid. I soon learned that it was dangerous to listen to
the communications that were made to me, which might lead
me to the commission of injustice, as had already happened
under the following circumstances.

84 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

Two Indians came one day to lodge a complaint against
one of their comrades, living at some leagues' distance from
Jala- Jala. These informers accused him of having stolen
cattle. After I had heard all they had to say, I set off with
my guard to seize upon the accused, and brought him to my
residence. There I endeavoured to make him confess his
crime, hut he denied it, and said he was innocent. It was in
vain I promised him if he would tell the truth to grant him
his pardon, for he persisted even in the presence of his accusers.
Persuaded, however, that he was telling me falsehoods, and
disgusted with his obstinacy in denying a fact which had been
sworn to me, with every appearance of sincerity, I ordered him
to be tied upon a bench, and receive a dozen strokes of a whip.
My orders were executed ; but the culprit denied the charge,
as he had done before. This dogged perseverance irritated
me, and I caused another correction to be administered to him
the same as the first. The unfortunate man bore his punish
ment with unshaken courage : but in the midst of his sufferings
he exclaimed, in penetrating accents : " Oh ! sir, I swear to
you that I am innocent ; but, as you will not believe me, take
me into your house. I will be a faithful servant, and you will
soon have proofs that I am the victim of an infamous calumny."
These words affected me. I reflected that this unfortunate
man was, perhaps, not guilty after all. I began to fear I had
been deceived, and had unknowingly committed an act of
injustice. I felt that private enmity might have led these two
witnesses to make a false declaration, and thus induce me to
punish an innocent man. I ordered him to be untied. " The
proof you demand," I said to him, " is easily tried. If you
are an honest man, I shall be a father to you ; but if you
deceive me, do not expect any pity from mo. From this

UNMERITED CHASTISEMENT — A CURATE APPOINTED. 65

moment you shall be one of my guard ; my lieutenant will
provide you with arms." He thanked me earnestly, and his
countenance lit up with sudden joy. He was installed in my
guard. Oh! human justice! how fragile, and how often un
intelligible art thou ! Some time after this event, I learnt that
Bazilio de la Cruz — this was the name of the man — was
innocent The two wretches who had denounced him had fled,
to avoid the chastisement they merited. Bazilio kept his pro
mise, and during my residence at Jala-Jala he served me
faithfully and without malice or ill-will. This fact made a
lively impression on me ; and I vowed that for the future I
would inflict no punishment without being sure of the truth of
the charge alleged. I have religiously kept this vow — at least I
think so ; for I have never since ordered a single application
of the whip until after the culprit had confessed his crime.

I have before said that I had expressed a wish to have a
church built in my village, not only from a religious feeling,
but as a means of civilisation : J was particularly desirous of
having a curate at Jala-Jala. With this view I requested
Monseigneur Hilarion, the archbishop, whose physician I had
been, and with whom I was on terms of friendship, to send mo
a clergyman of my acquaintance, and who was at that time
unemployed. I had, however, much difficulty in obtaining
this nomination. " Father Miguel de San-Francisco," the
archbishop replied, "is a violent man, and very headstrong :
you will never be able to live with him." I persisted, however ;
and as perseverance always produces some result, I at length
succeeded in having him appointed curate at Jala- Jala. Father
Miguel was of Japanese and Malay descent. He was young,
strong, brave, and very capable of assisting me in the difficult
circumstances that might occur ; as, for example, if it were

86 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

necessary to defend ourselves against banditti. Indeed I must
say that, in spite of the anticipations, and I may add the pre
judices, of my honourable friend the archbishop, I kept him
with me during the whole time of my abode at Jala-Jala, and
never had the slightest difference with him. I can only re
proach him with one thing to be regretted, which is that he
did not preach sufficiently to his flock. He gave them only
one sermon annually, and then his discourse was always the
same, and divided into two parts : the first was in Spanish, for
our edification, and the second in Tagaloc, for the Indians.
Ah ! how many men have I since met with who might well
imitate the worthy curate of Jala- Jala ! To the observations
I sometimes made he would reply : " Let me follow my own
course, and fear nothing. So many words are not necessary to
make a good Christian." Perhaps he was right. Since my

OUR LABOURS AT CIVILISATION. 87

departure from the place the good priest is dead, bearing with
him to the tomb the regret of all his parishioners.

As may be seen, I was at the beginning of my labour of
civilisation. Anna assisted me with all her heart, and with
all her intelligence, and no fatigue disheartened her. She
taught the young girls to love that virtue which she practised
so well herself. She furnished them with clothes, for at this
period the young girls from ten to twelve years of age were
still as naked as savages. Father Miguel de San Francisco
was charged with the mission more especially belonging to his
sacred character. The more readily to disseminate through
the colony that instruction which is the beneficent parent of
civilisation, the young people were divided into squads of four
at a time, and went by turns to pass a fortnight at the parson
age. There they learned a little Spanish, and were moulded
to the customs of a world which had been hitherto unknown
to them. I superintended everything in general. I occupied
myself in works of agriculture, and giving proper instruction to
the shepherds who kept the flocks I had purchased to make
use of my pasturage. I was also the mediator of all the differ
ences which arose amongst my colonists. They preferred
rather to apply to me than to the deputy-governor ; and I sue
ceeded at last in obtaining over them the influence I desired.
One portion of my time, and this was not the least busy, was
occupied in driving the banditti from my residence and its
vicinity. Sometimes I set off for this purpose before daybreak
and did not return until night ; and then I always found my
wife good, affectionate, and devoted to me : her reception re
paid me for the labours of the day. Oh, felicity almost perfect!
I have never forgotten you ! Happy period ! which has left
indelible traces in my memory, you are always present to my

88 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

thoughts ! I have grown old, but my heart has ever continued
young in recollecting you.

In our long chit-chat of an evening we recounted to each
other the labours of the day, and everything that occurred to
us. This was the season of sweet mutual confidence. Hours
too soon vanished, alas ! Fugitive moments, you will never
return! It was also the time when I gave audience; real
bed of justice, imitated from St. Louis, and thrown open to
my subjects. The door of my mansion admitted all the
Indians who had anything to communicate to me. Seated
with my wife at a great round table, I listened, as I took my
tea, to all the requests that were made to me, all the claims
that were laid before me. It was during these audiences that
I issued my sentences. My guards brought the culprits before
me, and, without departing from my ordinary calmness, I ad
monished them for the faults they had committed; but I
always recollected the error I had committed in my sentence
against poor Bazilio, and I was, therefore, very circumspect
I first listened to the witnesses ; but I never condemned until
I heard the culprit say :

" What would you have, sir ? It was my destiny. I
could not prevent myself from doing what I did."

"Every fault merits chastisement," I would reply; "but
choose between the deputy-governor and me — by which do you
wish to be chastised?"

The reply was always the same.

" Kill me, if you will, master; but do not give me up to my
own countrymen."

I awarded the punishment, and it was inflicted by my
guards. When this was over, I presented the Indian with a
cigar, as a token of pardon. I uttered a few kind words to him

MY HALL OF JUSTICE. 89

to induce him not to commit any. fresh faults, and he went
away without bearing any malice to his judge. I had, perhaps,
been severe, but I had been just; that was enough. The
order and discipline I had established were a great support for
me in the minds of the Indians ; they gave me a positive
influence over them. My calmness, my firmness, and my
justice — those three great qualities without which no govern
ment is possible— easily satisfied these natures, still untrained
and unsophiscated. But one thing, however, disquieted them.
Was I brave ? This is what they were ignorant of, and fre
quently asked of one another. They spurned the idea of being
commanded by a man who might not be intrepid in the face of
danger. I had indeed made several expeditions against ban
ditti, but they had produced no result, and would not serve as
proofs of my bravery in the eyes of the Indians. I very well
knew that they would form their definite opinion upon me
from my conduct in the first perilous extremity we should
encounter together. I was therefore determined to undertake
anything, that I might show myself at least equal to the best
and bravest of all my Indians: everything was comprised in
that. I felt the imperious necessity of showing myself not
only equal but superior in the struggle, by preserving my self-
possession.

An opportunity at length offered.

The Indians look upon buffalo hunting as the most dan
gerous of all their wild sports, and my guards often said they
would rather stand naked at twenty paces from the muzzle of
a carbine than at the same distance from a wild buffalo. The
difference they said is this, that the ball of a carbine may only
wound, but the horn of a buffalo is sure to kill. I took advan
tage of the terror they had of this animal, and one day declared,

90 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

with the utmost possible coolness, my intention to hunt one.
They then made use of all their eloquence to turn me from my
project ; they gave me a very picturesque, but a very discou
raging description of the dangers and difficulties I should have
to encounter, especially as I was not accustomed to that sort
of warfare, — and such a combat is, in fact, a struggle for life or
death. But I would listen to nothing. I had spoken the
word : I would not discuss the point, and I looked upon all
their counsels as null and void. My decision was right ; for
these kind counsels, these frightful pictures of the dangers I
was about to incur, had no other object than to entrap me ; they
had concerted amongst themselves to judge of my courage by
my acceptance or refusal of the combat. My only answer was
to give orders for the hunt. I took great care that my wife
should riot be informed of our excursion, and I set off, accom
panied by half a score Indians, nearly all of whom were armed
with muskets. Buffalo hunting is different in the mountains
from what it is in the plains. On the plain one only requires a
good horse, with address and agility in throwing the lasso;
but in the mountains it requires something more : and, above
all, the most extraordinary coolness and self-possession are
essentially necessary.

This is the way in which it is done : the hunter takes a
gun on which he can depend, and places himself in such a
position that the buffalo must see him on issuing from the
wood. The moment the animal sees him, he rushes on him
with the utmost velocity, breaking, rending, and trampling
under foot every obstacle to the fury of his charge ; he rushes
on as if about to crush the enemy, then stops within some
paces for a few seconds, and presents his sharp and threatening
horns. This is the moment that the hunter should fire, and

BUFFALO HUNTING EXPEDITION. 91

lodge his ball in the forehead of the foe. If unfortunately
his gun misses fire, or if his coolness fails him, if his hand
trembles, or his aim is bad, he is lost — Providence alone
can save him ! This was, perhaps, the fate that awaited
me; but I was resolved to tempt this cruel proof, and I went
forward with intrepidity — perhaps to death. We at length
arrived on the skirts of an extensive wood, in which we felt
assured there were buffaloes, and here we halted. I was sure
of my gun, and I conceived I was equally so of my self-
possession ; I therefore determined that the hunt should be
conducted as if I had been a simple Indian. I placed myself
at the spot where it was fully expected that the animal would
come out, and I forbade anyone to remain near me. I ordered
everyone to his proper place, and I then stood alone on the
open ground, about two hundred paces from the borders of the
forest, to await an enemy that would show me no mercy if I
missed him. It is, I confess, a solemn moment, when one
stands between life and death by the more or less certainty of
a gun, or the greater or less steadiness of the arm that holds
it. I was, however, perfectly tranquil. When all were at their
posts two hunters entered the forest, having first thrown off
some of their clothing, the more readily to climb up trees in
case of danger : they had no other arms than a cutlass, and
were accompanied by the dogs. A dead silence continued for
upwards of half-an-hour ; everyone listening for the slightest
noise, but nothing was heard. The buffalo continues a long
time frequently without betraying his lair; but at the end of
the half-hour we heard the repeated barking of the dogs, and
the shouts of the hunters : the animal was aroused from his
cover. He defended himself for some time against the dogs,
till at length, becoming furious, he sprang forward with a bound

92 TWENTY YEAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

towards the skirts of the forest. In a few minutes after, I
heard the crashing of the branches and the young trees thai
the buffalo rent asunder in the terrible velocity of his course.
His advance could only be compared to the galloping of several
Worses — to the rushing noise of some frightful monster — or, I
might almost say, of some furious and diabolical being.
Down he came like an avalanche; and at this moment, I
confess, I experienced such lively emotions that my heart beat
with extraordinary rapidity. Was it not death — aye, and fright
ful death — that was perhaps approaching me ? Suddenly the
buffalo made his appearance. He stopped for an instant;
gazed, as if frightened, around him ; sniffed up the air of the
plain which extended in the distance ; then, with distended
nostrils, head bent, and horns projected, he rushed towards me,
terrible and furious. The moment was come. If I had longed
for an opportunity of showing off my courage and sang-froid to
the Indians, these two precious qualities were now put to a
severe test. There I was, face to face with the peril I had
courted ; the dilemma was one of the most decided and una
voidable that could possibly be : conqueror or conquered, there
must be a victim — the buffalo or me, and we were both equally
disposed to defend ourselves.

It would be difficult for me to state exactly what was pass
ing in my mind, during the brief period which the buffalo
took in clearing the distance that lay between us. My heart,
so vividly agitated while the ferocious animal was rushing
through the forest, now beat no longer. My eyes were fixed
upon him, my gaze was rivetted on his forehead in such a
manner that I could see nothing else. My mind was concen
trated on one object alone, in which I was so absorbed, that
I could actually hear nothing, though the dogs were still bark-

DANGEROUS TRIAL OK MY COURAGE.

93

ing at a short distance, as they followed their prey. At length,
the buffalo lowered his head, presented his sharp*pointed horns,
stopped for a moment, then, with a sudden plunge, he rushed
upon me, and I fired. My ball pierced his skull, and I was
half saved. The animal fell within a pace of me, like a mass
of rock, so loud, and so heavy. I planted my foot between his
two horns, and was preparing to fire my second barrel, when a
long and hollow bellowing indicated that my victory was com
plete — the monster had breathed his last sigh. My Indians
then came up. Their joy was succeeded by admiration ; they
were in ecstacy ; 1 was everything they could wish for. All
their doubts had vanished with the smoke of my rifle, when,
with steady aim, I had shot the buffalo. I was brave ; I had
won their confidence ; I had stood the test. My victim was
cut up in pieces, and borne in triumph to the village As the

94 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

victor, I took his horns ; they were six feet long. I have since de
posited them in the museum of Nantes. The Indians, those
imaginative beings, called me thenceforward, " Malamit Oulon,"
Tagal words, which signify " cool head."

I must confess, without vanity, that the proof to which my
Indians had subjected me was sufficiently serious to give them
a decided opinion of my courage, and to satisfy them that a
Frenchman was as brave as themselves. The habit I subse
quently acquired of hunting convinced me that but little
danger is really incurred when the weapon is a good one, and
the self-possession does not fail. Once every month I in
dulged in this exercise, which imparts such lively sensations ;
and I recognised the facility with which one may lodge a ball
in a plain surface, a few inches in diameter, and at a few paces
distance. But it is no less true that our first huntings were
very dangerous. Once only I permitted a Spaniard named
Ocampo to accompany us. I had taken the precaution to
station two Indians at his side ; but when I quitted them to
vu?e up my own post, he imprudently sent them away, and
soon after, the buffalo started from the wood, and rushed upon
him.. He fired both his barrels, and missed the animal ; we
heard the reports and ran towards him, but it was too late !
Ocampo was no longer in existence. The buffalo had gored
him through and through, and his body was ploughed up with
frightful wounds. But no such accident ever took place again ;
for when strangers came to witness our buffalo hunts, I made
them get up in a tree, or on the crest of a mountain, where
they might remain as spectators of the combat, without taking
any part in it, or being exposed to any danger.

And now that I have described buffalo hunting in the
mountains, I must return to my coionising labours.

3o-aw at Jala Jala.

CHAPTER V.

Description of my House at Jala-Jala — Storms, Gales, and Earthquakes — Reform
ing the Banditti — Card-playing — Tagal Cock-fighting — Skirmishes with
Robbers — Courage of my Wife — Our Domestic Happiness — Visits from
Europeans — Their Astonishment at our Civilisation — Visit to a Sick Friend at
Manilla — Tour through the Provinces of the Ilocos and Pangasinan Indians —
My Reception by the Tinguians — Their Appearance and Habits — Manners and
Customs — Indian Fete at Laganguilan y Madalag — Horrible Ceremonies to
Celebrate a Victory — Songs and Dances — Our Night-watch — We Explore our
Cabin — Discovery of a Secret Well — Tomb of the Tinguian Indians.

A S I have previously said, my house possessed every comfort
•*"*• that could possibly be desired. It was built of hewn stone,
so that in case of an attack it could serve as a small fortress.
The front overlooked the lake, which bathed with its clear and
limpid waters the verdant shore within a hundred steps from
my dwelling ; the back part looked upon woods and hills, where

yo TWENTY YEARS IN TUE PHILIPPINES.

the vegetation was rich and plentiful. From our window
we could gaze upon those grand majestic scenes which a
beautiful tropical sky so frequently affords. At times, on a
dark night, the summits of the hills suddenly shone with a
weak faint light, which increased by degrees ; then the bright
moon gradually appeared, and illuminated the tops of the
mountains, as large beacon-fires would have done ; then again,
calm, peaceful, and serene, she reflected her soft poetic light
over the bosom of the lake, as tranquil and unruffled as herself.
It was indeed an imposing sight. Towards evening, Nature at
times showed herself in all her commanding splendour, infusing
a secret terror into the very soul. Everything bore evidence oi
the sacred influence of the Divine Creator. At a short distance
from our house we could perceive a mountain, the base of which
was in the lake and the summit in the clouds. This moun
tain served as a lightning conductor to Jala-Jala : it attracted
the thunder. Frequently heavy black clouds, charged with
electricity, gathered over this elevated point, looking like
other mountains trying to overturn it ; then a storm began,
the thunder roared tremendously, the rain fell in torrents ;
every minute frightful claps were heard, and the total dark
ness was scarcely broken by the lightning that flashed in long
streams of fire, dashing from the top and sides of the mountain
enormous blocks of rock, that were hurled into the lake with a
fearful crash. It was an admirable exemplification of the power
of the Almighty ! Soon the calm was restored, the rain ceased,
the clouds disappeared, the fragrant air bore on its yet damp
wings the perfume of the flowers and aromatic plants, and Nature
resumed her ordinary stillness. Hereafter I shall have occasion
to speak of other events that happened at certain periods, and
were still more alarming, for they lasted twelve hours.

STORMS AND EARTHQUAKES. 97

These wer-5 gales of wind, called in the Chinese seas Tay-Foung.
At several periods of the year, particularly at the moment of
the change of the monsqon,* we beheld still more terrifying
phenomena than our storms — I allude to the earthquakes.
These fearful convulsions of nature present a very different
aspect in the country from what they do in cities. If in
towns the earth begins to quake, everywhere we hear a terrible
noise ; the edifices give way, and are ready to fall down ; the
inhabitants rush out of their houses, run along the streets,
which they encumber, and try to escape. The screams of
frightened children and women bathed in tears are blended
with those of the distracted men ; all are on their knees, with
clasped hands, their looks raised to Heaven, imploring its mercy
with sobbing voices. Everything totters, is agitated : all dread
death, and terror becomes general. In the country it is totally
different, and a hundred times more imposing and terrific. For
instance, in Jala- Jala, at the approach of one of these phenomena,
a profound, even mournful stillness pervades nature. The wind
no longer blows ; not a breeze nor even a gentle zephyr is per
ceptible. The sun, though cloudless, darkens, and spreads around
a sepulchral light. The atmosphere is burdened with heavy
and sultry vapours. The earth is in labour. The frightened
animals quietly seek shelter from the catastrophe they foresee.
The ground shakes ; soon it trembles under their feet. The trees
move, the mountains quake upon their foundations, and their
summits appear ready to tumble down. The waters of the
lake quit their bed, and inundate the country. Still louder
roaring than that produced by the thunder is heard : the earth

* During six months the winds blow continually from the north-cast,
and during the other six months from the north-west : these two periods
are termed north-east monsoon and north-west monsoon.

98

TWENTY YEAES IN THE PHILIPPINES.

quivers; everywhere its motion is simultaneously felt. But
after this the convulsion ceases, everything revives. The
mountains are again firm upon their foundations, and become
motionless; the waters of the lake return by degrees to
their proper reservoir ; the heavens are purified and resume
their brilliant light, and the soft breeze fans the air; the

Herd of Wild Buffaloes.

wild buffaloes again scour the plain, and other animals 'quit
the dens in which they had concealed themselves ; the earth
has resumed her stillness, and nature recovered her accus
tomed imposing calm.

I have not sought to enter upon those minute descriptions,
too tedious generally for the reader; I only wished to give an

REFORMING THE BANDITTI. 09

idea of the various panoramas that were unfolded to our eyes
whilst at Jala-Jala.

I now return to the details of my ordinary life.

As I had killed a wild buffalo when hunting, I had given
sufficient proofs of my skill, and my Indians were devoted to
me, because they had confidence in me. Nothing more now
pre-occupied me, and I spent my time in superintending some
necessary alterations. Shortly the woods and forests adjoining
my domain were cut down, and replaced by extensive fields OA
indigo and rice. I stocked the hills with horned cattle, and a
fine troop of horses with delicate limbs and haughty mien ;
I also succeeded in dispersing the banditti from Jala-Jala.
I must say a great many of them abandoned their wandering
sinful lives ; I received them on my land, and made good hus
bandmen of them . How was it that I had collected such a
number of recruits ? In a strange manner, I will admit, and
worthy of relating, as it will show how an Indian allows him
self to be influenced and guided, when he has confidence in a
man whom he looks upon as his superior. I frequently
walked in the forests alone, with my gun under my arm.
Suddenly a bandit would spring out, as if by enchantment,
from behind a tree, armed from top to toe, and advance
towards me.

" Master," said he to me, putting one knee to the
ground, " I will be an honest man; take me under your
protection !"

I asked him his name ; if he had been marked out by the
high court of justice, I would answer him severely:

" Withdraw, and never present yourself again before me ;
I cannot forgive you, and if I meet you again, I must do my
duty."

100 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

If he was unknown to me, 1 would kindly say to him .

" Follow me."

I would take him. home, and then tell him to lay down hia
arms ; and after having preached to him, and exhorted him to
persist in his resolution, I would point out to him the spot in
the village where he might build his cabin, and, in order to
encourage him, I would advance him some money to support
himself until he became transformed from a bandit into an
agriculturist. I congratulated myself each day on having
left an open door to repentance, since by my cares I restored to
an honest and laborious life, people who had gone astray and
been perverted. I endeavoured also to persuade the Indians
to abandon their vicious wild customs, without being too severe
towards them ; to obtain much from them I knew it was neces
sary to give way a little. The Indians are passionately fond
of cards and cock-fighting, as I have said before ; therefore, in
order not to debar them entirely from these pleasures, I al
lowed them to play at cards three times a year — the day of the
village festival, upon my wife's birthday, and upon my own.
Woe to the one who was caught playing out of the times pre
scribed above ; he was severely punished. As to the cock
fights, I allowed them on Sundays and holidays, after Divine
service. For this purpose I had public arenas built. In these
arenas, in presence of two judges, whose decrees were without
appeal, the spectators laid heavy wagers. There is nothing
more curious than to witness a cock-fight. The two proud
animals, purposely chosen and trained for the day of the con
test, come upon the battle-field armed with long, sharp, steel
spurs They bear themselves erect ; their deportment is bold
and warlike ; they raise their heads, and beat their sides with
heir wings, the feathers of which spread in the form of the

TAGAL COCK-FIGHTING.
•

proud peacock's fan. They pace the arena haughtily, raising
their armed legs cautiously, and darting angry looks at each
other, like two old warriors in armour ready to fight before the
eyes of an assembled court. Their impatience is violent, their
courage impetuous ; shortly the two adversaries fall upon and

Tajal cock-fighting

attack each other with equal fury ; the sharp weapons they
wear inflict dreadful wounds, but these intrepid combatants
appear not to feel the cruel effects. Blood flows ; the cham
pions only appear the more animated. The one that is getting
weak raises his courage at the idea of victory; if he draw
back, it is only to recruit his strength, to rush with more

102 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

ardour than ever upon the enemy he wishes to subdue. At
length when their fate is decided, when one of the heroes, co
vered with blood and wounds, falls a victim, or runs away, he
is declared vanquished, and the battle is ended.

The Indians assist with a sort of ferocious joy at this
amusement. Their attention is so captivated by it that they
do not utter a word, but follow with particular care the most
minute details of the conflict. Almost all of them train up a
cock, and treat him for several years with comical tenderness,
when one reflects that this animal, taken as much care of as a
child, is destined by its master to perish the first day it fights.
I also found that it was necessary to provide some amusement
compatible with the tastes, manners, and habits of my former
bandits, who had led for so long a space of time such a wander
ing vagabond life. For this purpose I allowed hunting on all
parts of my estate, conditionally, however, that I should take
beforehand, as tithe, a quarter of any stag or wild boar they
should kill. I do not think that ever a sportsman — one of
those men reclaimed from the paths of vice to those of virtue —
failed in this engagement, or endeavoured to steal any game.
I have often received seven or eight haunches of venison in a
day, and those who brought them were delighted to be able to
offer them to me.

The church I had laid the foundation of was progressing
rapidly ; the population of the township was daily increasing ;
and everything succeeded according to my wishes. I had still
occasional difficulties with the hardened robbers who surrounded
me ; but I pursued them without intermission, for it was to
my interest to remove them from the neighbourhood of my resi
dence. Frequently they annoyed me by the alarms that they
gave us. These resolute, determined men arrived in gangs to

MY ESCAPES FROM FIRE-ARMS.

103

besiege our house. My guards surrounded me, and we occa
sionally fought skirmishes, which always terminated in our
favour. Providence has unfathomable secrets. I was never
struck by a ball from a bandit. I bear the scars of seventeen
wounds ; but these wounds were made with naked blades. It
could be said of me, as in I know not which Scotch ballad : " Did
not the Devil's soldiers pass through the balls, instead of the
balls passing through them " Yet I have often been fired
at ; sometimes the barrel of a gun has been pointed at my
chest, and that at a few paces from me. My clothes have been
torn by the bullet, but my body has always escaped harm.

One morning I was cautioned to put myself on my guard,
because some banditti had met together at a few leagues from

104 TWENTY YEAES IN THE PHILIPPINES.

my house, and intended attacking it. Hearing ibis, I armed
my people, and set out to meet the band that was coming to
assail me, so as to anticipate their attack. At the place that
had been indicated to me I found nobody, and passed the day
in exploring the neighbourhood, in hopes of meeting the
bandits, but my search was useless. Suddenly the thought
struck me that a secret enemy had imposed upon me, and that,
at the moment I was going to face imaginary clanger, perhaps
my house I had left would be suddenly attacked. I trembled
—I shivered all over. I gallopped off, and reached home in
the middle of the night. My fears were but too well-founded.
I had fallen into a snare. I found my servants armed,
watching, with my wife at their head. " What are you doing
here ? " I exclaimed, going up to her. " I am keeping watch,"
she replied, with great presence of mind ; "I was told that
the advice given to you was false ; that you would not find the
robbers where you expected, and that, during your absence,
they would come here." This act of heroism proved to me
what courage and energy God had given to a woman appa
rently so delicate. The banditti did not attack us : was there
not some guardian angel watching over my dwelling?

We were more than a year at Jala-Jala without seeing a
European. One would have thought that we had withdrawn
ourselves entirely from the civilised w?orld, and that we were
going to live for ever with the Indians. Our mountains had
so bad a reputation, that nobody dared expose themselves to
the thousand dangers they feared to encounter in the locality.
We were therefore alone, yet still very happy. It was, perhaps,
the most pleasant time I spent in my life. I was living with a
beloved and loving wife ; the good work I had undertaken was
performed under my eyes ; the comfort and happiness, the

VISIT TO A SICK FRIEND. 105

natural results of such good work, spread themselves among
my vassals, who daily became more and more devoted to me.
How could I have regretted quitting the pleasures and enter
tainments of a town, where those diversions and pleasures are
bought by lies, hypocrisy, and deceit — those three vices 01
civilised society? However, the terror spread around by the
banditti was not great enough to keep away the Europeans
entirely ; and one morning some people,* mad enough to dare
to visit a mad man — such was the name given to meat Manilla,
when I left to go and live in the country — came to see me,
armed to their very teeth. The surprise of these venturesome
visitors is impossible to be described, when they found us at
Jala-Jala, calm, and in perfect safety. Their astonishment
increased when they went entirely through our colony; and on
their return to town they gave such an account of our retreat,
and of the entertainments they found there, that shortly after
we received more visits, and I had not only to give hospitality
to friends, but likewise to strangers. If, now and then, our
affairs compelled us to go to Manilla, we very soon came back
to our mountains and forests, for there only Anna and myself
were happy. Very great reasons alone could induce us to leave
our pleasant abode ; however, a slight event occurred that obliged
us to quit it for a short time. I was informed that one of my
friends, who had acted as witness to my marriage, was seriously
ill.f What the greatest pleasure, the most heartfelt joy, the
most splendid banquet, could not obtain from me, friendship
exacted. At this sad intelligence T determined at once upon
going to Manilla, to give my advice to the sick man, whose
family had solicited my aid ; and as my absence might be

* At their head was Don Jose Fucntes, my constant friend.
f Don Simon Fernandez, Oidor at the Court Royal.

106

TWENTY VEAIcS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

prolonged, 1 packed up my things, and \ve left, our hearts
sadder than ever at having to quit Jala-Jala on so melancholy
an errand. Upon my arrival there, I was told that my friend
had been taken from Manilla to Boulacan, a province to the
north of that town, where it was hoped the country air would
hasten his recovery. I left Anna at her sister's, and went off to
join Don Simon, whom I found convalescent; my presence was
almost useless, and the journey I had made resulted in shaking
affectionately my former comrade by the hand, whom I would
not leave until convinced that he was entirely recovered.

In order to utilise my time, I decided upon making a tour to
the north into the provinces of Ilocos and Pangasinan. I had

MY JOURNEY TO THE TINGUIANS. 10 1

my reasons for so doing : I wished, if possible, to make an ex
cursion to the Tinguians and Igorrots, wild populations, who were
much talked of, but little known. I wished to study them myself.
I took the precaution not to confide this idea to anybody, for
then, indeed, people would not have known what name to give
my folly. I made my preparations, and set out with my faithful
lieutenant, Alila, who never left me, and who was justly styled
Mabouti-Tao. We were mounted upon good horses, that carried
us along like gazelles to Vigan, the chief town of the province
of South Ilocos, where we left the animals. From there we
took a guide, who conducted us on foot to the east, close to a
small river called Abra (opening). This river is the only issue
by which we could penetrate to the Tinguians. It winds
around high mountains of basalt ; its sides are steep ; its bed is
encumbered with immense blocks of rock, fallen from the
sides of the mountains, which render it impossible to walk
along its banks. To reach the Tinguians, it is necessary to
have recourse to a slight skiff, that can easily pass through the
current and the most shallow parts. My guide and my lieu
tenant soon contrived to make a small raft of bamboos ; when it
was finished we embarked, Alila and myself, our guide refusing
to accompany us. After much trouble and fatigue, casting our
selves often into the water to draw our raft along, we at length
got clear of the first range of mountains, and perceived, in a
small plain, the first Tinguian village. When we reached
there we got out, and went towards the huts we had distin
guished in the distance. I allow it was acting rather foolishly
to go and thus expose ourselves, in the midst of a colony of
ferocious and cruel men whose language we did not know ; but
I relied upon my usual good fortune. I will add that I had
taken divers objects with me to give as presents, trusting to

108 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES

meet some inhabitant speaking the Tagaloc language. 1
walked on, then, without troubling myself about what would
become of us. In a few minutes we reached the nearest cabins,
and the inhabitants gave us at first an unwelcome reception.
Frightened at seeing us approach, they advanced towards us,
armed with hatchets and spears ; we waited for them without
recoiling in the least. I spoke to them by signs, and showed
them some necklaces of glass beads, to make them understand
we were friendly disposed. They deliberated among them
selves, and when they had held their consultation, they
beckoned us to follow them. We obeyed. They led us to
their chief, who was an old man. My generosity was greater
towards him than it had been to his subjects. He appeared so
delighted with my presents, that he immediately put us at our
ease, by making us understand that we had nothing to fear,
and that he took us under his special protection.

This pleasing reception encouraged us.

I then set about examining with attention the men,
women, and children who surrounded us, and who seemed as
much astonished as ourselves. My amazement was very great
when I beheld tall men, slightly bronzed, with straight hair,
regular features, aquiline noses, and really handsome, elegant
women. Was I really among savages ? I should rather have
thought I was among the inhabitants of the south of France,
had it not been for the costume and language. The only
clothing the men wore was a sash, and a sort of a turban, made
out of the bark of the fig tree. They were armed, as they
always are, with a long spear, a small hatchet, and a shield.
The women also wore a sash, and a small narrow apron that
came down to their knees. Their heads were ornamented with
pearls, coral beads, and pieces of gold, twisted among their

TINGUIAN MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 109

hair ; the upper parts of their hands were painted blue ; their
wrists adorned with interwoven bracelets, spangled with glass
beads — these bracelets reached the elbow, and formed a kind
of half-plaited sleeve. On this subject I learnt a remarkable
fact. These interwoven bracelets squeeze the arm very much ;
they are put on when the women are quite young, and they
prevent the development of the flesh to the advantage of the
wrist and hand, which swell and become dreadfully big ; this
is a mark of beauty with the Tinguians, as a small foot is
with the Chinese, and a small waist with the European ladies.
I was quite astonished to find myself in the midst of this
population, where there was no reason whatsoever to be alarmed.
One thing only annoyed me ; it was the odour that these people
spread around them, which could be smelt even at a distance
However, the men and women are cleanly, for they are in the
habit of bathing twice daily. I attributed the disagreeable
smell to their sash and turban, which they never leave off, but
allow to fall into rags. I remarked that the reception given
me by the chief gained us the good-will of all the inhabitants,
and I accepted, without hesitation, the hospitality proffered us.
This was the only means of studying well the manners and
customs of my new hosts.

The territory occupied by the Tinguians is situated about
17 degrees north latitude, and 27 degrees west longitude; it
is divided into seventeen villages. Each family possesses two
habitations, one for the day and the other for the night. The
abode for the day is a small cabin, made of bamboos and straw,
in the same style as most Indian huts ; the one for the night
is smaller, and perched upon great posts, or on the top of a tree,
about sixty or eighty feet above the ground. This height
surprised me, but I understood this precaution when I knew

110 TWENTY YEAHS IN THE WITLIPPINES.

that thus, under shelter at night, the Tinguians are saved
from the nocturnal attacks of the Guinanes, their mortal
enemies, and defend themselves with the stones which they
throw from the tops of the trees.* In the middle of each
village there is a large shed, in which are held the assemblies,
festivities, and public ceremonies. I had been already two
days in the village of Palan (this was the name of the place
where I stopped at), when the chiefs received a message from
the small town of Laganguilan y Madalag, that lies far off to
the east. By this message the chiefs were informed that the
inhabitants of tUis district had fought a battle, and that they
had been victorious.

The inhabitants of Palan hearing this news screamed with
joy ; it was quite a tumult when they heard that a fete would
be given in commemoration of the success at Laganguilan y
Madalag. All wished to be present — men, women, children ;
all desired to go to it. But the chiefs chose a certain number
of warriors, some women, and a great many young girls : they
made their preparations and set out. It was too favourable an
opportunity for me not to avail myself of it, and I earnestly
begged my hosts to allow me to accompany them. They con
sented, and the same night we set out on our journey, being in
all thirty in number. The men wore their arms, which are
composed of a hatchet, that they call aligua, a sharp-pointed
spear of bamboo, and a shield ; the women were muffled up in
their finest ornaments. I remarked that these garments were
cotton materials, of showy colours. We walked one behind
another, according to the custom of the savages. We went

* The most bitter enemies of the Tinguians are a race of cruel, blood
thirsty savages, who inhabit the interior of the mountains. They have also
to fear the Tgorrots, who live nearer, but who are less savage.

AN INDIAN FETE — HORRIBLE CEREMONIES. Ill

through many villages, the inhabitants of which were also going
to the fete ; we crossed over-mountains, forests, torrents, and at
last, at break of day, we reached Laganguilan y Madalag. This
small town was the scene of much rejoicing. On all sides
the sound of the gong and tom-tom were heard. The first
of these instruments is of a Chinese shape ; the second is in
the form of a sharp cone, covered over at the bottom with a
deer's skin.

Towards eleven o'clock, tho chiefs of the town, followed
by all the population, directed their steps towards the large
shed. There everyone took his place on the ground, each
party, headed by its chiefs, occupying a place marked out for it
beforehand. In the middle of a circle formed by the chiefs of the
warriors were large vessels, full of basi, a beverage made with
the fermented juice of the sugar-cane ; and four hideous heads
of Guinans entirely disfigured — these were the trophies of the
victory. When all the assistants had taken their places, a
champion of Laganguilan y Madalag took one of the heads
and presented it to the chiefs of the town, who showed it to
all the assistants, making a long speech comprehending many
praises for the conquerors. This discourse being over, the
warrior took up the head, divided it with strokes of his
hatchet, and took out the brains. During this operation,
so unpleasant to witness, another champion got a second
head, and handed it to the chiefs, the same speech was
delivered, then he broke the skull to pieces in like manner,
and took out the brains. The same was done with the four
bleeding skulls of the subdued enemies. When the brains
were taken out, the young girls pounded them with their hands
into the vases containing the liquor of the fermented sugar
cane ; thev stirred the mixture round, and then the vases were

1 12 TWENTY YEARS IS THE PHILIPPINES,

taken to the chiefs, who dipped in their small osier goblets,
through the fissures of which the liquid part ran out, and the
solid part that remained at the bottom they drank with ecstatic
sensuality I felt quite sick at this scene, so entirely new to
me. After the chieftains' turn came the turn of the cham
pions. The vases were presented to them, and each one
sipped with delight this frightful drink, to the noise of
wild songs. There was really something infernal in this
sacrifice to victory.

We sat in a circle and these vases were carried round. I
well understood that wre were about undergoing a disgusting
test. Alas ! I had not long to wait for it. The warriors
planted themselves before me, and presented me with the basi
and the frightful cup. All eyes were fixed upon me. The
invitation was so direct, to refuse it would perhaps be exposing
myself to death ! It is impossible to describe the interior con
flict that passed within me. I would rather have preferred
the carbine of a bandit five paces from my chest ; or await,
as I had already done, the impetuous attack of the wild
buffalo. What a perplexity ! I shall never forget that awful
moment. It struck me with terror and disgust ; however, I
contained myself, nothing betraying my emotion. I imitated
the savages, and, dipping the osier goblet into the drink, I
approached it to my lips, and passed it to the unfortunate Alila,
who could not avoid this infernal beverage. The sacrifice was
complete ; the libations were over, but not the songs. The
basi is a very spirituous and inebriating liquor, and the assist
ants, who had partaken rather too freely of this horrible drink,
sang louder to the noise of the tom-tom and the gong, while
the champions divided the human skulls into small pieces
destined to be sent as presents to all their friends. The

SONGS AND DANCES OUR NIGHT WATCH. 1J3

distribution was made during the sitting, after which, the chiefs
declared the ceremony over. They then danced. The savages
divided themselves into two lines, and howling, as if they were
furious madmen or terribly provoked, they jumped about, lay
ing their right hand upon the shoulder of their partners, and
changing places with them. These dances continued all day ;
at last night came on, each inhabitant retired with his family
and some few guests to his aerial abode, and soon afterwards
tranquillity was restored.

We cannot help feeling astonished, when we are in Europe —
in a good bed, under a warm eider-down coverlet, the head lux
uriously reclining upon good pillows — when we reflect on the
singular homes of the savages in the woods. How often have
I represented to myself these families — roosting eighty feet
above ground, upon the tops of trees. However, I know that
they sleep as quietly in those retreats, open to every wind, as
I in my well-closed and quiet room. Are they not like the
birds who repose at their sides upon the branches ? Have they
not Nature for a mother, that admirable guardian of all she
has made, and do they not also close their eyelids under the
tutelary looks of the Supreme Father of the universe ?

My faithful Alila retired with me into one of the low-
storied cabins to pass the night, as we had been in the habit of
doing while staying with the Tinguians. For our better security
we were accustomed to watch one another alternately; \ve
never both slept at the same time. Without being timid,
ought we not to be prudent ? This night it was my turn to
go to sleep the first. I went to bed, but the impressions 01
the day had been too strong : 1 felt no inclination to sleep.
1 tnerefore offered to relieve my lieutenant of his watcn; thw
poor fellow was like myself — the heads of the Guinans kept

114 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

dancing before his eyes. He beheld them pale, bloody, hideous;
then torn, pounded, broken to pieces; then the shocking
beverage of the brains, that he also so courageously swallowed,
came back to his mind, and he suffered sufficiently to make
him repent our visit. "Master," said he to me, looking very
much grieved, "why did we come among these devils? Ah!
it would have been much better had we remained in our good
country of Jala-Jala." He was not perhaps in the wrong,
but my desire to see extraordinary things gave me a courage
and a will he did not partake of. I answered him thus :
" Man must know7 all, and see all it is possible to see. As we
cannot sleep, and that we are masters here, let us make a night
visit ; perhaps we shall find things that are unknown to us.
Light the fire and follow me, Alila." The poor lieutenant obeyed
without answering a word. He rubbed two pieces of bamboo one
against the other, and I heard him muttering between his teeth :
" What cursed idea has the master now? What shall we
see in this miserable cabin — with the exception of the Tic-
balan,* or Assuan?^ We shall find nothing else." During the
Indian's reflections the fire burnt up. I lit, without saying a
word, a cotton wick, plastered over with elemi gum, that I
always carried with me in my travels, and I began exploring.
I went all through the inside of the habitation without finding
anything, not even the Tic-balan, or Assuan, as my lieutenant
imagined. I was beginning to think my search fruitless, when
the idea struck me to go down to the ground-floor of the cabin,
for all the cabins are raised about eight or ten feet above
ground, and the under part of the floor, closed with bamboos
ft used, as a store : I descended. Anyone who co'.ihl hftvf

* Evil Spirit. -f- A malicious divinity of the Tagalocs.

DISCOVERY OF A SECRET WELL. 115

seen me — a white man, a European, the child of another hemi
sphere — wander by night, with a taper in my hand, ahout the
hut of a Tinguiau Indian, would have heen really surprised at
my audacity, and I may almost say, my obstinacy, in seeking out
danger while pursuing the wonderful and unknown. But I went
on, without reflecting on the strangeness of my conduct : as the
Indians say : "I was following my destiny." When I had
reached the ground, I perceived in the middle of a square,
inclosed with bamboos, a sort of trap, and I stopped quite
pleased. Alila looked at me with astonishment. I lifted up
the trap, and saw a rather deep well ; I looked into it with my
light, but could not discover the bottom of it. Upon the sides
only, at a depth of about six or seven yards, I thought I dis
tinguished some openings that I took for entrances into sub
terraneous galleries. What had I now discovered? Was I,
like Gil Bias, about to penetrate into the midst of an as
semblage of banditti, living in the internal parts of the
earth ; or should I find, as in the tales of the "Arabian Nights,"
some beautiful young girls, prisoners of some wicked magi
cian ? Indeed, my curiosity increased in proportion to my dis
coveries. " There is something strange here," said I to my
lieutenant; "light a second match, I will go down to the
bottom of the well." Hearing this order, my faithful Alila
shrunk back in dismay, and ventured to say to me, in a fright
fully dismal tone :

" Why, master, you are not content to see what is upon the
earth, you must also see what is inside of it!"

This simple observation made me smile. He continued :
44 You wish to leave me alone here ; and if the souls of the
Guinans whose brains I have just drank come to fetch me, what
will become of me ? You will not be here to defend me !

My lieutenant would not have been frightened at twenty

I 16 TWENTY YEAES IN THE PHILIPPINES.

banditti, he would have struggled against every one of them
until death ; but his legs trembled, his voice faltered, he was
terrified at the idea of remaining alone in this cabin, exposed
to the view of the spirit of a Guinan, which would come and
ask him to restore his brains ! Whilst he addressed me these
complaints, I had leant my back against one side of the well,
my knees were applied against the other, and down I went.
I had already descended about four yards, when I felt some
rubbish falling upon me. I raised my head, and saw Alila
coming down too. The poor fellow would not remain alone.
" Well done," said I to him, " you are becoming curious too ;
you will be rewarded, believe me, for we shall see fine sights."
And I continued my under-ground research. After proceeding
six or seven yards I reached the opening I had remarked from
above, and stopped. I placed my light before me, and espied
a corner, where sat the dried black corpse of a Tinguian in
the same state as a mummy. I said nothing ; I waited for
my lieutenant, anxious as I was to enjoy his surprise. When
he was aside of me: "Look, look," I exclaimed; "what is
that?" He was stupified. "Master," said he at last, "I
entreat of you to leave this place ; let us get out of this cursed
hole ! Take me to fight against the Tinguians of the village —
I am quite willing to do that — but do not remain among the
dead ! What should we do with our arms, if they suddenly
appeared to ask us why we are here ? " "Be quiet," I answered
him ; " we shall go no farther." I felt satisfied that this well
was a tomb, and that 'lower down I should see some more
Tinguians in a state of preservation. I respected the abode
of the dead, and came up, to Alila's great satisfaction. We
~>ut everything in its place, and returned to the upper story of
•he cabin. I soon fell asleep, but my lieutenant could not : the
houghts of the mummy and horrible beverage kept him awake.

Guman India"'.

CHAPTEK VI.

Visit to Manabo — Conversation with my Guide — Religion of the Tingui.ins---
Tbeir Marriage Ceremony — Funereal Rites — Mode of Warfare^-I take leave
of the Tinguians — Journey to the Igorrots — Description of them — Their
Dwellings — A Fortunate Escape — Alila, and the Bandits — Recollections of
Home — A Majestic Fig-tree — Superstition of Alila — Interview with an Igorrot
— The Human Hand — Nocturnal Adventure — Consternation of Allla — Pro
bable Origin of the Tinguians and Igorrots.

E following morning, before dawn, our hosts began to
descend from their high regions, and we left our temporary
abode, to make preparations for our departure. I had resided
long onongh at Laganguilnn y Madalag. I was desirous of

118 TWENTY YlfiAES IN THE PHILIPPINES.

visiting Manabo, a large village, situated at a short distance
from Lagan guilan. I availed myself of the presence of the
inhal >ants of Manabo, who had come to assist at the Brain
Feas^ — this was the appellation I had given to this savage
fete — and I set out with them. Among the troop there was
one who had spent some time among the Tagalocs ; he spoke
their language a little, and I knew it tolerably well. I profited
by this fortunate occurrence, and during the whole of the way
I conversed with this savage, and questioned him upon the
habits, customs, and manners of his fellow-countrymen. One
point particularly pre-occupied me. I was unacquainted with
the religion of these people, so very curious to study. Until
then I had seen no temple ; nothing that bore resemblance to
an idol; I knew not what God they worshipped. My guide,
chatty for an Indian, gave me quickly every information neces
sary. He told me that the Tinguians have no veneration for
the stars ; they neither adore the sun, nor mocn, nor the
constellations ; they believe in tne existence of a soul, and
pretend that after death it quits the body, and remains in the
family. As to the god that they adore, it varies and changes
form according to chance and circumstances. And here is
the reason : When a Tinguian chief has found in the
country a rock, or a trunk of a tree, of a strange shape — I
mean to say, representing tolerably well either a dog, cow, or
buffalo — he informs the inhabitants of the village of his dis
covery, and the rock, or trunk of a tree, is immediately con
sidered as a divinity — that is to say, as something superior to
man. Then all the Indians repair to the appointed spot, carry
ing with them provisions and live hogs. When they have
reached their destination they raise a straw roof above the new
idol, to cover it, and make a sacrifice by roasting hogs ; then, at

TJNGU1AN MARRIAGE CEREMONY. 119

the sound of instruments, they eat, drink, and dance until they
have no provisions left. When all is eaten and drank, they
set fire to the thatched roof, and the idol is forgotten until
the chief, having discovered another one, commands a new
ceremony.

With regard to the morals of the Tinguians, my guide in
formed me that the Tinguian has generally one legitimate
wife, and many mistresses; but the legitimate wife alone in-
nabits the conjugal house, and the mistresses have each of them
a separate cabin. The marriage is a contract between the two
families of the married couple. The day of the ceremony,
the man and wife bring their dowry in goods and chattels ; the
marriage portion is composed of china vases, glass, coral
beads, and sometimes a little gold powder. It is of no profit
to the married couple, for they distribute it to their relations.
This custom, my guide observed to me, has been established
to prevent a divorce, which could only take place in entirely
restituting all the objects that were contributed at the mar
riage by the party asking for divorce — a rather skilful expe
dient for savages, and worthy of being the invention of civi
lised people. The relatives thus become much interested in
preventing the separation, as they would be obliged to resti
tute the presents received ; and, if one of the couple persisted
in requesting it, they would prevent him or her by making
away with one of the objects furnished, such as a coral neck
lace, or a china vase. Without this wise measure, it is to be
supposed that a husband, with mistresses, would very often
endeavour to obtain a divorce. My fellow-traveller enlightened
me upon all the points that I wished to investigate. The
government, said he to me, after resting himself for a few
minutes, is very patriarchal. It is the oldest man who com

120 TWENTY TEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES

mauds. — As at Lacedsemonia, thought I, for there old age
was honoured. — The laws are perpetuated by tradition, as the
Tinguians have no idea of writing. In some instances they
Bpply the punishment of death. When the fatal sentence has
been pronounced, the Tinguian who has merited it must
escape, if he wishes to avoid it, and go and live in the forests ;
for, the old men having spoken, all the inhabitants are bound
to perform their orders. Society is divided into two classes,
as with the Tagalocs, the chiefs and the commonalty. Who
ever possesses and can exhibit to the public a certain number
of china vases is considered a chief. These jars constitute all
the wealth of the Tinguians. We were still conversing about
the natives of the country when we reached Manabo. My
guide had scarcely ceased talking all the way from Laganguilan.

My attention was now attracted by some flames that were
issuing from under a cabin, where a large fire was burning.
Around it many people were sitting, howling like wolves.

" Ah ! ah !" said my guide, seemingly very pleased ; " here
is a funeral. I did not tell you anything about these ceremo
nies ; but you will judge for yourself of what they are. It
will be time enough to-morrow. You must be tired. I will
take you to my day-cabin, and you may repose yourself without
any danger of the Guinans, for a funeral compels a great many
people to be on the watch all night."

I accepted the offer made to me, and we took possession of
the Tinguian cabin. It was my turn to take the first watch,
and my poor Alila, a little more at his ease, fell into a sound
sleep. I followed his example, after my watch, and \ve did
lot wake up until it was broad daylight.

We had scarcely finished our morning repast, composed of
ckmey-potatoes, palms, and dried venison, when my guide o*

FUNEREAL RITES. 121

the preceding day came to conduct me to the spot where the
funeral of the deceased was about to take place. I followed
him, and placing ourselves a few steps from the cortege, we
assisted at a strange sight. The deceased sat in the middle of
his cabin upon a stool ; underneath him, and at his side, fires
were burning in enormous chafing-dishes ; at a short distance
about thirty assistants were seated in a circle. Ten or twelve
women formed another circle ; they were seated nearer to the
corpse, close by which the widow was also placed, and who
was distinguished by a white veil, that covered her from head
to foot. The women brought some cotton, with which they
wiped off the moisture that the fire caused to exude from the
corpse, which was roasting by degrees. From time to time
one of the Tinguians spoke, and pronounced, in a slow, har
monious tone of voice, a speech, which he concluded by a sort of
laugh, that was imitated by all the assistants ; after which
they stood up, eat some pieces of dried meat, and drank some
basi; they then repeated the last words of the orator, and
danced.

I endured — such is the word — this sight for an hour; but
I did not feel courage enough to remain in the cabin any
longer. The odour that exhaled from the corpse was unbear
able. I went out, and breathed the fresh air ; my guide fol
lowed me, and I begged him to tell me what had occurred
from the beginning of the illness of the deceased.

" Willingly," he answered me.

Delighted to breathe freely, I listened with interest to the
following recital :

"When Dalayapo," said the narrator, "fell sick, they took
him to the grand square, to apply severe remedies to him , that
is to say, all the men of the village came in arms, and, to the

122 TWENTY Y.EAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

sound of the gong and the tom-tom, they danced around
the sick man from the rising to the setting of the sun. But
this grand remedy had no effect — his illness was incurable.
At the setting of the sun they placed our friend in his house,
and no more heed was paid to him : his death was certain,
as he would not dance with his fellow-countrymen."

I smiled at the remedy and the reasoning, but I did not
interrupt the narrator.

" For two days Dalayapo was in a state of suffering ; then,
at the end of those two days, he breathed no more ; and, when
that was perceived, they immediately put him on the bench
where we saw him just now. Then the provisions that he pos
sessed were gathered together to feed the assistants, who paid
him all due honours. Each one made a speech in his praise :
his nearest relations began the first, and his body was sur
rounded with fire to dry it up. When the provisions are
consumed, the strangers will leave the cabin, and only the
widow and a few relations will wait until the body is thoroughly
dried. In a fortnight's time he will be placed in a large hole
that is dug under his house. He will be put in a niche, or
aperture, in the wall, where already his deceased relatives'
remains are deposited, and then all is over."

This hole, thought I, must be similar to the one I went
into the other night at Laganguilan.

The explanation that I had just received completely satis
fied me, and I did not request to be present again at the
ceremony. I resolved, since I was very comfortably seated,
under the shade of a balete, upon availing myself of the obliging
disposition of ray guide, to ask him to inform me, suddenly
changing the conversation all the while, how his tribe managed
to wage war on the Guinans, their mortal enemies.

MODE OF WARFARE,

123

Weapons of the Ting'Uian Indians.

"The Guinans," said he to me, without drawing in any
way on my patience, " wear the same arms as we do. They
are neither stronger, nor more skilful, nor more vigorous.
We have two modes of fighting them. Sometimes we give
them a grand battle at mid-day, and then we meet them face
to face, under a burning sun ; at other times, during some dark
night, we creep in silence to their dwelling-places, and if we be
able to surprise any of them we cut off their heads, which we
take away with us, and then we get up a feast, such as you
have already witnessed."

That word " feast " recalled to my mind the sanguinary
orgie, or carousing, I had been present at, and particularly the
share I had taken in it, so that I felt I was blushing and
gr2wing pale by turns. The Indian took no heed of it, and
went on thus :

" in the grand battles all the men belonging to a village
are compelled to take up arms, and to march against the fo»-

124 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

It is generally in the midst of a wood that tha two armies
meet. As soon as they come in sight of each other they
get up crying and howling on both sides. Each man then
rushes upon his enemy, and upon this shock depends the fate
of the victory; for one of the armies is always panic-struck,
and scampers away ; then it is that the other pursues it, and
kills as many as possible, taking care to preserve the heads,
which they bring home with them."*

" Why it is a hide-and-seek fight, the consequences of which
are, however, very cruel," I said. My Indian was of the same
opinion, and rejoined :

" In general the conquerors are ever those who are
cleverest in concealing themselves, in order to surprise their
enemies, and who then dash on them bawling and howling."

Here my guide stopped short, the fight having no longer
any interest for him; and then, perceiving I questioned him no
longer, he left me to myself, when I returned to my habitation
and Alila, who was sick enough of Manabo. For my own
part I had seen enough of the Tinguiaus, and besides I thought
I had observed that they seemed not too well pleased with the
long stay I had made among them. I passed over in my
mind the brain feast, so I resolved upon leaving. I therefore
went to take leave of the elders. Unfortunately I had nothing
to offer them, but I promised them many presents, when I
should get back among the Christians — and then I left them.

The satisfaction of my faithful lieutenant was at its height
when we started for home. Not being disposed to go back by
the same way I had come, I determined upon keeping more to

* It is on account of this cruel custom of beheading their victims that
the Spaniards have given to these savages the name of "corta cadesaz,"
' deeajjitators."

JOUENEY TO THE IGOBI10TS. 125

the east, crossing over the mountains, and upon taking the sun
as my guide. This road seemed preferable to me, inasmuch
as I was about to traverse a country inhabited by a few Igor-
rots, that other species of the savage tribe I was not ac
quainted with. The mountains we crossed over were crowned
with magnificent forests. Now and then we perceived lovely
fertile valleys below our feet, and the grass was so high and
thick-set, that it was with great difficulty we could pass through
it. During our journey, my lieutenant kept a sharp look-out,
wishing to kill some game for our support. As for myself, I
was indeed far from thinking of the pleasure of shooting, so
great was my contemplation of the admirable panoramic
views that we met with every moment"; and I was too much
enraptured with the virgin and fruitful soil that spread itself
so incommensurately around us to think even of eating. But
my faithful Alila was less an enthusiast than I was myself :
however, in return, he was more prudent. At the close of the
day on which we started he killed a stag ; so we halted on the
brink of a stream, cut off some palm-tree strips, in guise of
rice and bread, and set about eating the roasted liver of the
animal. Our repast was truly a copious one. Ah ! how often
since that time, when seated before a richly served table —
having before me delicious and recherche viands, and that in
dining-rooms where the atmosphere was balmy and perfumed
by the aroma arising from the highly flavoured dishes — how
often, I say, have I regretted the supper I partook of with Alila
in the forest, after a day's ramble on the mountains ! Nay,
what mortal could forget such hours — such places ?

Our repast over, we made our bed of some branches we
lopped off from the trees, and which we joined togethei
on the very moist soil in the interior of the vast forest, and

120 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

there we slept soundly till the morrow, without fear, and par
ticularly without having any sombre or disagreeable dreams
At the dawn of day we were on foot again, all Nature seeming
to wake up with ourselves. Oh ! how fine and calm did she
appear to us ! The vapours that arose from her breast covered
her all over with a veil, like a young virgin at her waking ;
and then this veil by degrees would break up into pieces,
which pieces, gently balanced on the morning breeze, would
disappear, and be lost on the tops of the trees or the summits
of the rocks. On we walked for a long time, till at last,
towards the middle of the day, we came to a small plain
inhabited by the Igorrots. We found, in all, three cabins, or
huts, so that the population was far from being large. At the
door of one of these cabins I saw a man, of about sixty years
of age, and a few women. As we had arrived from behind the
huts we took the savages by surprise, so that they had no time
to fly at our approach : we were in the midst of them.

I assumed the line of conduct I had pursued on arriving
at Palan, but as I had no more coral beads or coloured glass,
I presented them with a part of our stag, making them under
stand at the same time that we came with the most friendly
intentions. From that moment there was established between
us a very curious sort of mimic conversation, during which I
was able to examine at my ease the new race of beings I saw
around me. I perceived that the costume of the Igorrots
was pretty nearly the same as that of the Tinguians, the
ornaments excepted, but their features and physiognomy were
quite different. The men were smaller, their breasts being
exceedingly broad, their heads immensely big, their limbs
developed, their strength herculean ; their shape was not so
Viaudsome as that of the savages I had just left ; their colour

THEIR DWELLINGS. 127

of a dark bronze, very dark indeed; their noses are less
aquiline, their eyes yellow and fully open — a la Chinoise. The
women's shape was also very protuberant, their complexion dark,
their hair long, and combed up — a la Chinoise. Unfortunately
it was impossible for me, with all my mimicry, to obtain the
information I wished for, so I was obliged to content myself
with visiting the cabin, which was a real hut, having but the
ground-floor. The surrounding parts wrere closed in by very
thick piles, covered with a roof in the form of a bee-hive.
There was but one issue, through which it was impossible to
have either egress or ingress, except in crawling on all-fours.
in spite of this difficulty I wrould see the interior of this Indian
dwelling; so, having made a sign to my lieutenant to keep
watch, I penetrated into the hut. The Igorrots seemed quite
surprised at my so doing, but they made no opposition to it.
I found myself within an obnoxious hole, or hovel, through a
small opening in the summit of which the daylight peeped in
and the smoke crept out. The floor was thickly covered with
clust, and it was upon such a soft couch that the whole family
laid down to rest. In one of the corners I perceived some
bamboo lances, a few cocoa-nuts divided into two parts, so as
to serve as cups, a heap of good-sized round pebbles, that were
used in case of attack, and a few pieces of wood, of very
common workmanship, that served as pillows.

I soon got out of such a den, from which I was driven by
the nauseous smell it contained in its every part, but I had
been able to see everything in it. I then inquired, by signs,
of the Igorrot, the way I should go, in order to join the
Christians. He fully understood me, showed me the road
with his finger, and we then proceeded on our journey. As I
journeyed on, I remarked here and there fields of patates and

128 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

sugar-cane, which of course must have been the only husbandry
of those miserable savages. After about an hour's journey wo
were near running into a very great danger. On entering into
a vast plain we saw an Igorrot, flying away as quickly as
possible. He had remarked us, and I attributed his flight to
fear, when suddenly I heard the sound of the tom-tom and
gong, and saw, at the same time, twenty men armed with
lances, rapidly advancing towards us. I felt that a fight was
about to ensue, so I told my lieutenant to fire at the group, so
as to injure none of them.

Alila fired : his bullet passed over the heads of the savages,
who were so astonished at the detonation that they suddenly
halted, and examined us attentively. I prudently took ad
vantage of their surprise, and an immense forest presenting
itself on our right, we entered it, leaving the village on our
left, but the savages did not follow us into it.

During the whole of this scene my lieutenant did not
utter a word. I had already remarked that when in pre
sence of danger he became dumb, but when he had lost sight
of the Igorrots his speech and loquacity returned to him.

" Master," said he to me, in a very dissatisfied tone, "how
I do regret not having fired directly into the middle of those
miscreants!"

" And why so ?" asked I.

" Because I am certain I should have killed one of them
at least."

"Well?"

" Well, master, our journey would not have terminated
without our sending at least one soul of a savage to the devil."

"Ah! Alila," said I; "so you have become wicked and
naughty, have you?"

ALILA AND THE BANDITS. 129

" No, no, no, master," replied ho ; " but I cannot conceive
why you are so kind and compassionate to that infernal race.
You, who pursue and persecute the Tulisans,* who are a
hundred times better than these wretches are, and who are
Christians besides."

" What !" cried I ; " brigands, robbers, and assassins better
than poor primitive beings, who have no one to guide and
conduct them to the path of virtue ! "

" Oh, master-!" replied my lieutenant, and most senten-
tiously this time; "Oh ! the brigands, as it pleases you to call
them, are in nowise what you think them. The Tulisau is
not an assassin. When he takes away life it is onty when he
is compelled, in defence of his own, and if he do lull, why it is
always de bon cceur."

" Oh! oh!" said I; " and the robberies — how do you ex
plain them ?"

" If he rob, why it is only to get possession of a little of the
superfluity of the rich, and that he divides among the poor —
that's all. Now, master, do you know what use the Tulisan
makes of his plunder ?"

'• No, indeed, master Alila," answered I, smilingly.

" Well, he keeps nothing of it for himself," said my lieu
tenant, with great pride; " in the first place he gives a part,
of it to the priest, to have masses said for him."

" Indeed ! it is mighty edifying — go on."

*' And then he gives another part of it to his mistress, or
bonne amie, because he loves her, and likes to see her finely
dressed out ; and as for the remainder, why, faith! he spends it
among his friends. You may therefore see, master, that the
1'ulisan possesses himself of the superfluity of one person to

* Banditti.

F

130 TWENTY YEARS M TJTE PHILIPPINES.

satisfy several other persons with it.* Oh ! but he is far, very
far indeed, from being so wicked as those savages, who kill
you without saying a word to you, and then eat up your brains —
fie!" And here Alila heaved a deep sigh, for the brain feast
was ever present to his mind. His conversation so interested
me. his system was so curious, and he himself so frank in
drawing it out, that I almost forgot the Igorrots in listening
to him.

We pursued our road through the wood, keeping as much
as possible to the south, in order to get near the province of
Batangas, where I was to meet my poor patient, who no doubt
was very uneasy about my long absence. When I started 1
said not a word about my project, and had I done so it i? most
likely I should have been thought as no longer belonging to thid
world. The recollection of my wife, whom I had left at Manilla,
and who was far from supposing me to be among the Igorrots,
inspired me with the most anxious desire of returning home to
my family as quick as possible. Absorbed in my thoughts,
and carried away by my reflections, I walked silently along,
without even casting a glance upon the luxuriant vegetation all
around us. I must indeed have been very much pre-occupied,
for a virgin forest between the tropics, and particularly in the
Philippine islands, is in nowise to be compared with our
European forests. I was aroused from my pensiveness, and
recalled to the remembrance of my whereabouts, by the noise of
a torrent, and I gratefully admired nature in her gigantic pro
ductions. I looked up, and before me I perceived an immense
baletc, an extraordinary fig-tree, that thrives in the sombre and
mysterious forests of the Philippines, and I stopped to admire

* " The nakedness of the poor might be clothed out of the trimming
of the vain."— Dr. Goldsmith's "Vicar of Wakefield."— Tn.

A MAJESTIC FIG-TREE. 131

it. This immense tree springs from a seed similar to the
seed of the ordinary fig-tree ; its wood is white and spongy,
and in a few years it grows to an extraordinary size. Nature,
who has had foresight in all things, and who allows the young
lamb to leave its wool on the bushes for the timid bird to
pick it up and build its nest with — Nature, I say, has shown
herself in all her genius in the fig-tree of the Philippine
islands, which grows so rapidly and so immensely. The branches
of this tree generally spring from the base of the trunk ; they
extend themselves horizontally, and, after forming an elbow or
curve, rise up perpendicularly ; but, as I said before, the tree
is spongy, and easily broken, and the branch, while forming
the curve, would inevitably be broken, did not a ligament,
which the Indians call a drop of water — goutte d'eau — fall from
the tree and take root in the earth ; there it swells, and grows
in proportion with the size of the branch, and acts to it as a
living prop. Besides which, around the trunk, and at a
Considerable distance from the ground, are natural supports,
which rise up in points or spirals to about the middle of the
trunk. Has not the Grand Architect of the world foreseen
everything?

The appearance presented by the balete is very frequently
indescribably picturesque ; and this is so true that, within a
space of some hundred paces in diameter — which these gigantic
pg-trees usually occupy — one may see by turns grottoes, halls,
Chambers, that are often furnished with natural seats, formed
out of and by the roots themselves. No ! no vegetation is
more diversified, nor more extraordinary ! This tree sometimes
grows out of a rock, where there is not an inch of earth ; its
long roots run along the rock, encompass it, and then plunge
into the neighbouring brook. It is indeed a masterpiece of

132 TWENTY TEAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

nature — a chef d'ceuvre — which, however, is very ordinary in
the virgin forests of the Philippine islands.

" Here," said I to my lieutenant, " is a good spot for us
to spend the night on."

He recoiled some paces.

" What !" said he ; " do you wish to stop here, master?"

" Certainly," replied I.

" Oh ! but you don't see that we are in still more danger
here than in the midst of the Igorrots !'*

" And why, then, are we in danger?" asked I.

"Why? why? Do you not know that the Tic-balan
dwells in the large baletes. If we stop here you may be very
sure that I shan't sleep a moment, and that we shall be tor
mented the whole night."

I smiled, which my lieutenant perceiving :

"Oh! master," said he, most dolefully, "what should we
do with an evil spirit that fears neither bullet nor dagger ?"

The terror of the poor Tagal was really too great for me to
resist him, so I yielded, and we took up our quarters for the
night at a place much less to my own taste, but much more to
Alila's. The night passed away like many others — I mean,
perfectly well, and we woke up to resume our journey through
the forest.

We had been walking about two hours, when, on leaving the
wood, and entering on a plain, we met an Igorrot, mounted
upon a buffalo, face to face. The encounter was somewhat
curious. I levelled my gun at the savage : jny lieutenant took
hold of the animal by the long leather strap, and I made a
sign to the Igorrot not to stir: then— always in my mimic
language — I asked if he were alone. I understood from him
that he was accompanied by no fellow-traveller, and that he

INTERVIEW WITH AN IGORROT. 133

was going northwards, in the opposite direction to our own
But Alila, who decidedly had a grudge against the savages,
was most anxious to lodge a ball in this fellow's head. How
ever, I strenuously opposed such a project, and ordered him to
let go the bridle.

" But, master," said he, " allow me at least to see what
these jars contain."

Around the neck of the Igorrot's buffalo were strung three
or four jars, covered with leaves of the banana tree.

My lieutenant, without even waiting for my answer, applied
his nose to them, and discovered, to his infinite satisfaction, that
they contained a deer or stag ragout, which sent forth a certain
perfume ; so, still without consulting me, he undid the smallest
of the jars, struck the buffalo a blow with the but-end of his
gun, and, letting go the animal at the same time, exclaimed :

" Go, you rascal — go !"

The Igorrot, finding himself free, fled as quick as the
beast could carry him, and we re-entered the woods, taking
care to avoid the openings, for fear of being surprised by too
large a number of savages.

Towards four o'clock we halted to take our repast. This
wished- for moment was impatiently expected by my lieutenant,
as the savage's jar sent forth a veiy savoury smell. At last
the desired moment arrived : we sat down on the grass. I
stuck my poignard into the jar, which Alila had brought up to
the fire, and I withdrew — an entire human hand !* My poor
lieutenant was as stupified as I was myself, so we remained a
few minutes without saying a word. At last I gave a vigorous

* The Igorrots, however, according to the reports of the Indians, arc-
not anthropophagi ; perhaps the one in question had received these ragouts
from some other savages — the Guinans, for instance.

134 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

kick to the jar, and smashed it in pieces, so that the human
flesh it contained was scattered over the ground, while still I
held the fatal hand on the point of my dagger.

That hand horrified me ; yet I examined it most carefully,
and it appeared to me to have been the hand of a child of an
Ajetas, a species of savages that inhabit the mountains of
Nueva-Exica and Maribeles, of which race I shall have an
opportunity of speaking during the course of this work. I
took some strips of palm-tree, roasted in the burning embers ;
Alila did the same, and we set out, not in the best of humours,
in search of another resting-place for the night.

Two hours after sun-rise we issued from the forest and
entered upon the plain. From time to time — that is, from
distance to distance — we met with rice-fields, cultivated after
the Tagal manner, and then did my lieutenant exclaim most
joyously to me :

" Master, we are now in Christian ground."

He was right; the road was becoming more easy. We
followed on a narrow pathway, and towards evening arrived in
front of an Indian cabin, at the door of which a young girl was
sitting, while abundant tears trickled down her sorrowful
countenance. I drew near her, and inquired into the cause o*
her grief. On hearing my question she rose up, and without
replying to my queries, conducted us into the interior of the
habitation, where we beheld the inanimate body of an old
woman, whom we learned was the mother of the young girl ;

tjf

the brother of the latter had gone to the village in quest of the
relations of the deceased, to aid them in transporting the
corpse to its final destination.

This scene affected me very much. I did my best to con
sole the poor young girl, and solicited hospitality for the night,

NOCTURNAL ADVENTURE. 135

which was instantly granted. To be in company with a dead
body nowise affrighted me ; but I bethought of Alila, so super
stitious and so fearful with regard to ghosts and evil spirits.

" Well," said I to him ; " are you not afraid to spend the
night near a corpse ?"

"No, master," replied he, courageously; "this dead per
son is a Christian soul, which, far from wishing us evil, will
watch over us."

I was really astonished at the answer of the Tagaloc, at
his calmness and security : the rogue had his own motives
for thus speaking to me. The Indian huts in the plains,
are never composed of more than one room ; the one we were
in was scarcely large enough to hold us all four ; however, we
one and all managed as well as we could. The deceased oc
cupied the back part ; a small lamp, placed by her head,
threw out a feeble light, and beside her lay the young Indian
girl. I had established my quarters at a short distance from
the bed of death, and my lieutenant was nearest the door, left
open purposely to dispel the heat and foul air.

Towards two o'clock in the morning I was waked up by a
shrill voice, and I felt at the same time that some one was
passing o\er me, and uttering cries that soon were heard
outside the cabin. I immediately stretched out my hand
towards the place where Alila had lain down, but that place
was empty ; the lamp was out, and the darkness complete.

This made me very uneasy. I called to the young girl,
who answered me that she had heard, like me, cries and noise,
but she was ignorant of the cause. I snatched up my gun and
sallied forth, calling out to my lieutenant ; but to no purpose.
No one answered ; the stillness of death reigned all around.
I then set out, walking over the fields at hazard, calling out

136 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

now and then Alila's name. I had not, perhaps, r. gone a
hundred paces when I heard the following words, pronounced
most timidly, proceeding from a tree by which I was passing :

" I am here, master."

It was Alila himself. I drew nigh, and saw my lieutenant
ensconced behind the trunk of the tree, and trembling like one
of its leaves.

"What then has happened to you?" I inquired; "and
what are you doing there ?"

"Oh! master," said he to me; "pray forgive me! Bad
thoughts got the better of me; it was the young Indian girl
inspired me with them, and the demon blew them into my
inner man. I — I — I — drew nigh, during the night, to the
young girl's resting-place, and when I saw you fast asleep — I
put out the lamp."

" Well, and then — " said I, most impatiently ana angrily.

"And then — I wished to take a kiss from the young girl;
but, at the very moment I drew nigh, the old dead woman took
her daughter's place, so I only met with a cold and icy face,
and at the same moment two long arms stretched out to seize
upon me. Oh ! it was then I gave such a cry — and I fled !
fled ! fled ! but the old woman pursued me — yes, the corpse
tracked me behind; and she has only just now disappeared, on
hearing the sound of your voice. I then hid behind this tree,
where you now see me, in a piteous plight."

The fright of the Tagal and his mistake made me almost
laugh out ; but I severely reprimanded him for the bad inten
tion he had of abusing the hospitality that had been so gra
ciously afforded us : he repented, and begged of me to excuse
him. He was, I should think, sufficiently punished by his
fright. I wished to take him back to the cabin with me ; but

PROBABLE ORIGIN OF THE T1NGUIANS. 137

for no consideration would he return. I therefore left my gun
in his charge, and went back to the house of mourning, where
I found the poor young girl just as frightened as he was. I
soon made her acquainted with the adventure ; so thanking
her for her kind hospitality, and morning coming on, I re
turned to Alila, who was most impatiently expecting me.

The hope of seeing soon again our relations, our homes,
our friends, gave us new courage, and before sunset we arrived
at an Indian village, without anything remarkable having taken
place : this was to be our last stage.*

* It would be difficult to establish from what nations the divers species
of men who inhabit the interior of Luzon originally came. The Tingui-
ans, from their fine shape, their colour, their eyes, their almost aquiline
nose, the value they set upon china vases, their music, and finally from
their habits, would appear to be the descendants of the Japanese. It is
most likely that at a very distant period some junks from the Japan
coasts, hurried along by strong northern winds, may have been wrecked
upon the Luzon shores, and that their crews, seeing no possibility of1
returning to their native country, as well as to avoid the Malayan popu
lation that was in possession of the beaches, — it is possible, I say, that the
shipwrecked persons withdrew into the interior of the mountains, the diffi
culty of access to which protected them from all invasion.

The Japanese sailors, who are merely coasters, sail about with their
wives, as I had an opportunity of witnessing on board many junks,
whither I went through mere curiosity. Those same junks, beaten by
the tempest, had steered for shelter to the eastern coast of Luzon, where
they anchored for four months, waiting for the return of the monsoon ;
and had they not met with a protecting government, their crews would
have been compelled to fly into the mountains, as I suppose the Tinguians
had been obliged to do. The latter having some women with them, must
have procured others from among the neighbouring population, and as they
inhabit the finest and healthiest country in the world, their number must
have considerably increased. They are now spread over sixteen villages :
Palan, Jalamey, Mabuantoc, Dalayap, Lanquiden, Baac, Padanquitan y
Pangal, Campasan y Danglas, Lagayan, Ganagan, Malaylay, Bucay, Gad-
dani, Laganguilan y Madalag, Manab, Palog y Amay.

The Igorrots, whom I had less opportunities of studying, seem to be
the descendants of the remains of the grand naval army of the Chinese

J8Q

TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

Inhabitants ol Boulacan

After this long and interesting journey I arrived at Quingua,
a village in the province of Boulacan, where I had left my
friend in convalescence.

Lima-On, who, after attacking Manilla, on the 30th November, 1574, had
taken refuge in the province of Pangasinan, in the gulf of Lingayan,
where he was a second time defeated, and his fleet completely destroyed.
A part of the crew escaped into the mountains of Pangasinan, where the
Spaniards could not pursue them.

The Igorrot has long hair, eyes a la Chinoise, a flat nose, thick lips,
high cheek bones, broad shoulders, strong and nervous limbs, and bronze
colour; he greatly resembles the Chinese of the southern provinces of the
Celestial Empire.

I could obtain no information as to extraction concerning the Guinans,
another people of savages, ferocious and cruel, who live in the neighbour
hood of the Tinguians.

I keep back for a future period a description of the Ajetas, or Negritos,
the aborigines of Luzon.

MwrJlla Fibhin.; Halt

CHAPTER VII.

I return to Jala-Jala — An Excursion on the Lake — Rclempago's Narrative — Re
organisation of my Government — A Letter from my Brother Henry — His
Arrival — He joins me in the Management of my Plantations — Cajoui, the
Bandit : Anten-Anten — Indian Superstition — A Combat with the Bandit —
His Death — A Piratical Descent — My Lieutenant is Wounded — I extract
the Ball, and cure him.

1\/TY prolonged absence from home caused great uneasiness.
"*- Very fortunately my wife remained at Manilla, and was
totally ignorant of the journey I had recently undertaken.

My patient had not exactly followed the prescribed regimen,
so that his distemper had increased, and he was impatiently

140 TWENTY YEAES IN THE PHILIPPINES.

expecting to return and dte, he said, in his house : his wishes
were complied with. A few days after my arrival we set out
and arrived the next day at Manilla, where my poor friend
rendered his last sigh in the middle of his family. This event
damped, of course, the pleasure I should have enjoyed in be
holding my wife once more.

A few days after the demise of our friend we embarked, and
set sail for Jala-Jala.

We glided most agreeably upon the lake until we left tha
strait of Quinanbutasan, but, once there, we met with so vio
lent an east wind, and the water of the lake was so ruffled, that
we were obliged to re-enter the strait, and cast anchor near
the cabin of the old fisherman, Relempago, whom I have
already noticed.

Our sailors landed to prepare their supper; as for ourselves,
we remained in our boat, where we stretched ourselves at our
ease, the old fisherman, as he sat doubled up in the Indian
fashion, amusing us in the best way he could by the narration
of brigand stories.

I interrupted him all on a sudden, saying to him :

" Relempago, I should prefer hearing the history of your
own personal adventures ; do, therefore, relate your misfortunes
to us."

The old fisherman heaved a sigh, and then, unwilling to
disoblige me, began his story in the poetical terms so familiar
to the Tagal tongue, and which it is almost impossible to re
produce by a translation :

" Lagune is not my native place," said he ; "I was born in
the island of Zebou, and was at the age of twenty what is
called a fine young man ; but, pray believe me, I was by no
means proud of my physical advantages, and I preferred being

KKLEMPAGOS NARRATIVE. 141

the first fisherman of iny village. Nevertheless, my comrades
were jealous of me, and all that because the young girls would
look at me with a certain complaisant air, and seemed to find
me to their liking."

I could not but smile at this frank avowal of the old man,
which he perceiving, continued :

" I tell you these things, sir," replied he, " because at my
age one can speak of them without fearing to appear ridicu
lous — it is so long ago. And besides, allow me to inform you
that I relate to you such things, not from vanity — Oh, no ! but
merely to furnish you with an exact recital. Besides, the sly
and roguish looks that young girls threw at me, as I passed
through the village, flattered me in no manner. I was in love
with Theresa, sir ; yes, I was passionately in love with her,
and my love was returned, for fondly did she love me ; a look
from any other but from her was totally indifferent to me. Ah !
Theresa was the prettiest lass in the village ! but, poor soul !
she has done like myself — she has greatly altered ; for years are
an enormous weight, which bends and breaks you down in spite
of yourself, and against which there is no way of struggling.

" When, seated as I am at present, I bethink me of the
fine by-gone days of my youth — of the strength, the courage,
that we used to find in our ruutual affection — Oh ! I shed
tears of regret and sensibility. Where are now those fine —
those happy days ? Gone, gone, gone ! they have fled before
the piercing and terrible winds that forerun the storms and
the hurricanes. Like the day, life has its dawn ; like the day,
also, it has its decline !"

Here the poor old fisherman made a pause, and I was
loth to interrupt him in his meditation. There then ensued
a profound silence, that lasted several minutes. Suddenly Be

J42 TWENTY YEARS IX THE PHILIPPINES.

lempago seemed to start from a dream, and passing his hand
over his forehead, looked at us for some time, as if to excuse
himself for those few moments of mental absence, and then he
continued as follows :

*' We had been brought up together," said he, " and had
been affianced as soon as we had grown up. Theresa would
have died rather than belong to any other, and, as I shall here
after prove it, I would have accepted any condition, even the
most unfavourable one rather, than abandon the friend of my
heart. Alas ! it is almost always with our tears that we trace
our painful way through life. Theresa's relations were opposed
to our union ; they even put forward vain and frivolous pre
texts ; and whatever efforts I made to bring them to decide
upon bestowing her affianced hand on me, I never could succeed.
And yet they well knew that, like the palm tree, we could
not live without each other, and we were to be separated,
it would be condemning us to die. But our tears, our prayers,
our griefs, were only heard by senseless people, and we were
labouring under the most poignant grief, while no one would
understand or sympathise with our sorrow. I was beginning
to lose all courage, when one morning there came into my
mind the pious thought of offering to the Infant Jesus, in the
church of Zebou, the first pearl I should fish up. I therefore
repaired earlier than usual to the sea-shore, implored the
Almighty to grant me his protection, and to have me married
to my beloved Theresa. The sun was just beginning to dart
his burning rays upon the earth, and was gilding the surface
of the waters. Nature was awaking from her transitory sleep,
and every living being or object was singing in its languag,
a hymn to the Creator.

" With a beating heart I began diving to the bottom of the

RELEMPAGO's NARRATIVE. 142

sea, in search of the pearl which I so ardently wished for, but
my searches and struggles were completely fruitless at first.
Had anyone been near me at that moment he would have
easily read my disappointment in my face. Nevertheless, my
courage failed me not. I began again, but with no better
success. * Oh, Lord !' cried I, ' thou nearest not then my prayers,
my supplications ! Thou wilt not then accept for thy beloved
son the offering that I destine for him.'* For the sixth time
T plunged, and brought up from the bottom of the sea two
enormous oysters. Oh ! how my heart leaped with joy ! I
opened one of them, and found it contained a pearl so large
that never in my life had I seen one like it. My joy was so
great that I set-to dancing in my pirogue, as if I had lost my
reason. The Lord, then, did vouchsafe to protect me, since He
enabled me to accomplish my vow. With a joyful heart I
retraced my steps to my dwelling, and, not wishing to fail in
my word, I took my magnificent pearl to the curate of Zebou.

" The reverend father," continued the old fisherman, " was
delighted with my present. That pearl was worth 5,000 piasters
(or 25,000 francs, i. e., £1,000 English money), and you must
have admired it — you, as well as all other persons who attend
the church — for the Infant Jesus always holds it in his hand.
The curate thanked and congratulated me on my very good idea.

'"Go home in peace, brother,' said he to me ; ' go home in
peace. Heaven will not forget thy meritorious action — yea,
the disinterestedness of thy good work, and sooner or later
thy desires will be hearkened to.'

* According to Indian tradition, and to Spanish tradition likewise, the
Infant Jesus of Zebou existed before the discovery of the Philippines. After
the conquest the Infant was found upon the sea-shore ; the Spanish con
(fiierors deposited it in the cathedral, where it performed great miracles.

144 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES

" .1 left the holy man with my heart joyful indeed, and 1
hastened to inform Theresa of the pastor's consoling words :
we rejoiced like two children together. Ah ! true indeed it is
to say that youth has been endowed by the Almighty with
every privilege, particularly with that of hope. At the age of
twenty if the heart think that it may live in hope, away with
all cares immediately ; and, as the morning breeze sips up the
drops of moisture that have been left by the storm in the
chalice of flowers, so does hope dry up the tears that moisten
the eyes of the young, and drive away the sighs that inflate
and oppress the breast. So sure were we that our tribulations
would ere long be o\er, that we no longer thought of our by
gone sorrow ! In the spring-time of life grief leaves no more
trace after it than the nimble foot of the wily Indian on tne
strand, when the sea-wind has blown over it.

" The inhabitants of the village, seeing us so joyful, so
purely happy, were envious of our lot, and Theresa's relations
could no longer find any pretext for opposing our being united.
We were now in fail sight of connubial bliss ; our boat of life
was gently rocked by a very mild wind ; we were singing the
return-home hymn, not supposing, alas ! that we were going to
he dashed against a breaker ! Our young Indians foresee
not in the morning the storm that is to assail them in the
evening. The buffalo cannot avoid the lasso, and most often, in
order to avoid it, he anticipates the danger. I roved about, I
may s ay heedlessly thoughtless of the precipice before my feet.
Misfortune marked me for her own when I least expected it.

" One evening, on my return from fishing, at the moment
when I was repairing to Theresa's, there to repose myself after
my fatigues of the day, I saw one of my neighbours advancing
towards me. That man had always shown me the greatest

RELEMPAGO'S NARRATIVE. 145

affection, so that on seeing him thus advance, my limbs began
to tremble, and the pulsations of my heart gradually ceased.
His face was pale, and entirely altered. His haggard eyes
threw forth flashes of terror, and his voice was trembling and
agitated.

" ' Los Moros* have made a descent upon the coast,' said
he to me.

" ' Good Heavens !' exclaimed I, covering my face with my
hands.

" ' They surprised some persons of the village, and carried
them off prisoners.'

" ' And Theresa ?' exclaimed I.

" ' Carried off with the others,' he replied.

" I heard no more of this revelation, and for some minutes
— like the warrior pierced to the heart by a poisoned arrow —
I was completely deprived of all consciousness.

" When I came back to myself tears flooded my face, and
brought me some relief: but suddenly I resumed my courage,
and felt that no time was to be lost. I ran to the shore where I
had left my pirogue, which I unfastened, and, as quickly as oars
could pull me, I pursued the Malays, not in the hope of
wresting Theresa from them, but resolved upon partaking of
her captivity and misfortune. We better endure the suffer
ings we have to undergo when we are two together than when
we are alone. He who had brought me the fatal tidings saw
me start, and thought I had lost my senses ; the fact is,
my countenance bore all the traces of mental alienation.
Methought I was inspired by the grand master-spirit ; my
pirogue bounded along the troubled waters of the ocean as if
it possessed wings. One would have said that I had twenty
* The Malays.

G

146 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

rowers at my disposal, and I cleft the waves with the same
rapidity as the halcyon's flight, when wafted away by the
hurricane. After a short time's laborious and painful rowing
I at last came in view of the corsairs who were carrying away
rny treasure. At the sight my strength was renewed again,
and I was soon up with them. When I was side by side with
them I informed them, in words the most feeling, and which
sprang from my poor lacerated heart, that Theresa was my
wife, and that I would prefer being a slave with her to aban
doning her. The pirates listened to my voice, stifled by my
tears, and took me on board, not from commiseration, but from
cruelty. In fact, I was a slave more added to their numbers :
why should they have repulsed me ? A few days after that
fatal evening we arrived at Jolo. There the division of the
slaves was made, and the master into whose hands we fell
took us away with him. Was it, then, to undergo a like
destiny that I had dived so early in the morning for a pearl
for the Infant Jesus of Zebou ? Yes, was it for this that
I had made a vow to bring him the first pearl I should find ?
Notwithstanding my profound sorrow I murmured not, neither
did I regret my offering. The Lord was the master ! His
will should be done."

Here Relempago paused, and looked towards Heaven
with a smile of angelic resignation, and we then remarked
upon his face the furrows traced by the deep sorrows of his
life. The wind was still blowing with violence, and our boat
was dancing on the waves ; our sailors had finished their
repast, and, in order to listen to the fisherman's tale of woe,
had taken up their place by his side. Their features wore
an expression of the most innocent attention ; so, having made
a sign to the narrator, he resumed his story as follows : —

BELEMPAGO'S NARRATIVE 147

* Our captivity lasted two years, during which time we
had to endure "very great sufferings. Very often would my
master take me away with him to a lake in the interior of the
island, and these ahsences lasted for whole months together,
during which time I was perforce separated from my Theresa,
my dear wife ; for, not having been able to get united by a
clergyman, we had joined ourselves, under the all-benevolent
and protecting eye of the Almighty ! On my return, I used to
find my poor companion still the same good, faithful, devoted,
and affectionate friend, whose courage sustained my own.

" One circumstance decided me upon taking an audacious
resolution. Theresa was in an interesting situation ! Oh ! what
would not my joy have been had I been at Z6bou, in the midst
of our family and of our friends ! What happiness should I
not have felt at the idea of being a father ! Alas ! in slavery,
that very same thought froze my blood with terror, and I
firmly resolved upon snatching both mother and child from
the tortures of captivity. In one of our excursions I had
been wounded in the leg, and this wound came greatly to my
aid. One day my master set out for the borders of the
grand lake, and, knowing I had a bad leg, left me at Jolo. I
availed myself of this opportunity to put into execution a
project that I had formed for a long time, that of flying
with Theresa. The task was a daring one, but the desire of
freedom doubles one's strength and increases one's courage,
so I did not hesitate for a moment. When night had lowered,
iny dear Theresa took a road I had pointed out to her, I
went by another one, and we both arrived at the sea-shore at
a short distance from each other. There we jumped into a
pirogue, and threw ourselves upon the protection of Divine
mercy !

148 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

"We rowed vigorously the whole night, and never in my
life shall I forget that mysterious flight. The wind blew rather
violently, the night was dark, and the stars insensibly lost
their vivid brightness. Every moment we thought we heard
behind us the noise of our pursuers, and our hearts beat so
loud and so violently that they could be heard in the midst
of the silence that reigned around all nature.

" Day at last appeared : we descried by degrees, in the
mist of the morning, the rocks that lined the shore, and we
could see far enough in the distance that no one was pursuing
us. Then were our hearts filled with cheering hope, and we
continued rowing towards the north, in order to land on some
Christian isle.

" I had taken with me some cocoa-nuts, but they were a very
small resource, and we had been at sea three whole days
without eating anything, when, exhausted by fatigue and want,
we fell upon our knees and invoked the pity, compassion, and
succour of the Infant Jesus of Zebou. Our prayer over, we
felt our strength completely exhausted ; the oars fell from our
hands, and we lay down in the bottom of the pirogue, decided
upon dying in each other's arms.

" Our weakness gradually increased, and finally we swooned
away, the pirogue all the while dashing heedlessly on with the
waves

'• When wo recovered from our fainting fit — I know not
how long it lasted — we found ourselves surrounded by Chris
tians, who, having perceived us in our light skiff, had come to
our aid, conveyed us to their hospitable dwelling, and took the
most pious care of us. We had not long been disembarked
when Theresa was taken with the pains of labour, and was
confined of a very diminutive, .sickly child. I went down on

BELKMPAGO'S NARRATIVE. MO

my knees before the innocent little creature that had sc
miraculously escaped from slavery, and prayed for it — it was
a boy ! "

Here the poor old fisherman heaved a heavy sigh, while
tears were fast falling upon his shrunken hands.

We one and all respected this painful recollection of tho
poor old man.

" Our convalescence was very long indeed," said Kelem-
pngo ; "at last our health was sufficiently restored to permit
of us leaving the isle of Negros, where the Infant Jesus had
so miraculously caused us to land, and we came to settle here,
on the side of this large lake, which, being situated in the
interior of the isle of Lucon, afforded me the means of pur
suing my avocation of fisherman without in any way fearing
the Malays, who might very easily have captured us again at
Zebou.

" My first care — yes, the dearest act of my life— on arriving,
was to have our marriage celebrated in the church of Moron.
I had promised it to God, and I would not fail in the promise
I had made Him who reads all hearts. After that I built
the little cottage you see hard-by, and my existence glided on
most peacefully. The fishing trade went on prosperously. I
was still a young man, active and intelligent, and sold my fish
very easily to the vessels passing through the strait. My son
had by this time become a fine young man."

" Of course he resembled his father," said I, recollecting
the beginning of the old man's tale, but my remark could not
excite a smile upon his countenance.

" Oh ! the lad was a good fisherman," continued he, " and
happily did we all three live together, till a dreadful mis
fortune befell us. The Infant Jesus had no doubt forsaken

150 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

us, or perhaps the Almighty was displeased with us ; but I
am far from murmuring. He has visited us most severely,
since He has overwhelmed us with grief of such a strong
nature, that it must accompany us to our last resting-place ! "

And here the poor old man's tears trickled down his weather-
beaten cheeks once more, in abundance, in bitterness, and in
sorrow.

Ah ! how right was the Italian poet, when he said :—

" Nought lasteth here below but tears ! "

The voice of Relempago was stifled by his sobbing ; how
ever, he made one more effort, and continued thus :

" One night — a fine moonlight night — we set our nets in a
certain part of the strait, and as we felt so.me difficulty in drawing
them up, the lad plunged into the water to ascertain what
obstacle we had to contend with, and to set all to rights. I
was in my pirogue, leaning over the side, waiting for his
return, when all of a sudden I thought I saw, through the
silvery beams of the lamp of night, a large spot of blood
spreading itself over the surface of the water. Fear took
possession of me, and I quickly hauled up my nets. My hap
less child had seized upon and become entangled in them — •
but, alas ! when he came to the surface he was a corpse ! "

" What ! your son ? " cried I.

"My poor dear Jose-Maria," said he, "had his head
bitten off by a cayman that had got entangled in our nets. '
Ever since that night— that fatal night ! — Theresa and I offer
up our prayers to the Omnipotent, imploring Him to take
us to himself; for, alas ! nothing now has any charms for us
here below. The first of us that will depart for that bourn
from whence no traveller returns will be interred by the

RE-ORGANISATION OF MY GOVERNMENT. 151

survivor beside our beloved child — there, under that little
hillock yonder, which is surmounted by a wooden cross, in front
of my humble cottage ; and the last of us two to leave this
valley of tears will no doubt meet with some charitable Christian
hand, to place our mortal remains beside the bodies of those
we loved so tenderly during our hapless pilgrimage here
below."

Here Relempago ceased his painful history, and, that he
might give a free course to his grief and tears, he rose up,
and bowed us his adieu, which we returned to him with hearts
oppressed with sympathetic sorrow.

The wind had ceased blowing, and the attentive sailors
were awaiting our orders, so that in a few moments afterwards
we were sailing towards Jala-Jala, where we landed before
sunset

On the morrow of my arrival I entered on the business of
my little government, to which my absence had been far from
useful or favourable, so that I was obliged to suppress many
abuses that had crept into it while I had been away. Some
slight corrections, joined to an active and incessant surveillance,
or inspection, soon established once more the most perfect
order and discipline; so that, from that moment, I was at
liberty to devote all my time and attention to the cultivation
of my lands.

We were now at the beginning of the winter — the rainy
and windy season. No stranger had dared crossing the lake,
to come and visit us, so that, alone with my dear wife, our days
glided most happily and tranquilly away, for we knew not
what ennui was or meant : our mutual affection was so great
that our own presence was sufficient company for each other.

This delightful solitude was soon interrupted by a fortunate

152 TWENTY YEAES IN THE PHILIPPINES.

and unforeseen event. A letter from Manilla — a very rare
circumstance at Jala-Jala — reached me, informing me that my
eldest brother, Henry, had just arrived there ', that lie had put
up at my brother-in-law's ; and that he was expecting me with
all imaginable impatience. I was not aware that he had left
France to come and see me, so that such news, and his sudden,
as well as unexpected, arrival, surprised and overjoyed me.

I was once more to see one of my dearest relations - a
brother whom T had always tenderly loved. Ah ! he who has
never quitted his home, his family, and his early attachments, will
with difficulty understand the emotions I experienced on receiv
ing this agreeable letter. When the first transports of my joy
were somewhat allayed, I resolved to set out at once for
Manilla. Preparations for my departure were speedily made.
I chose my lightest canoe, and my two strongest Indians, and
a few minutes after, having embraced my beloved Anna, I was
scudding over the waters of the lake, slowly — too slowly for my
impatience, as I wished to be able to give wings to my fragile
skiff, and to traverse the distance that separated me from my
brother as rapidly as my thoughts: no journey ever appeared to
me so long, and nevertheless my two robust rowers exerted
all their strength to favour my wishes. At length I arrived,
and immediately hastened to my brother-in-law's, and there I
threw myself into Henry's arms. Our emotions were such
that for some time we could not speak; the abundant
tears we shed alone showed the joy of our hearts. When the
first transport was over, I asked him questions beyond number.
Not one member of my family was forgotten; the smallest
details concerning these beloved beings were to me of the
greatest interest. We passed the remainder of the day and
the following night in incessant and interesting conversation

MY BROTHER JOINS ME. 153

The next day we started for Jala-Jala. Henry was eager to
become acquainted with his sister-in law, and I to make the
dear companion of my life a sharer in my happiness. Excel
lent Anna ! my joy was joy for you — my happiness was your
delight ! You received Henry as a brother, and this sisterly
attachment was always, on your part, as sincere as your affec
tion for me had ever been.

After a few days spent in the most agreeable conversation
about France, and about all those beloved friends who remained
there, feelings of sadness that I could with difficulty repress
became intermingled with my joy. I thought of our numerous
family, so far distant, and so scattered over the globe. My
youngest brother was, to my great regret, dead at Madagascar.
My second brother, Robert, resided at Porto- Rico ; and my
two brothers-in-law, both captains of vessels, engaged in long
voyages, were gone to the Indies. My poor mother and my
poor sisters were alone, without protectors, without support :
what sad moments of fear and anxiety you must have spent in
your solitude ! Ah ! how I should have rejoiced to have you
near me ; but, alas ! a whole world separated us, and the hope
of seeing you again one day could alone scatter the clouds that
darkened occasionally the happy days adorned by the presence
of my brother.

After some time of rest, Henry asked to join me in my
labours. I then made him acquainted with my mode of
cultivation, and he took upon himself the management of the
plantations and of their products. I reserved to myself the
regulation of my Indians, the charge of the flocks, and that of
putting down the bandits.

I had frequent quarrels, and even incessant conflicts, with
these turbulent Indians ; but I never boasted of these petty

G*

154 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

engagements, in which I was often obliged to take a most active
part. On the contrary, I recommended strict silence to my
attendants, for I did not wish to cause anxiety to my excellent
Anna, nor to give my brother the desire of accompanying
me. I did not like to expose him to the dangers I ran
myself, as I had not equal hopes of safety for him. I
relied upon my star, and really, to a certain degree, all
modesty aside, I think that the bandits' balls respected me.
When I was engaged in contests in the plain, or in some of
the skirmishes, the danger was not great ; but it was quite a
different thing when it was necessary to fight hand to hand,
which happened more than once; and I cannot forbear the
pleasure of relating one of those circumstances that made me
say just now the bandits' balls respected me.

One day i was alone with my lieutenant, having both of us
only our daggers, and we were coming back to our habitation,
and passing through a thick forest, situated at the end of the
lake. Alila said to me: "Master, this neighbourhood is
much frequented by Cajoui." Cajoui was known as the chief
of a most daring gang of brigands. Among his numerous
atrocities he had amused himself, on that very day, by drown
ing twenty of his fellow-countrymen. I then determined to
free the country of the odious assassin, and the advice of my
lieutenant induced me to take a narrow path, that led us to a
hut concealed in the midst of the woods. I told Alila to
remain below, and to watch, while I went to endeavour to recon
noitre the persons who inhabited it. I went up by the small
ladder that leads to the interior of the Tagalese huts ; a young
Indian woman was there, quite alone, and very busy plaiting a
mat. I asked her for some fire to light my cigar; and returned
to my lieutenant. Having accidentally cast my eyes upon the

CAJOUI, TOE BANDIT ANTEN-ANTEN. 155

exterior of the hut, it appeared much larger than it did inside.
I ran up again quickly, and looked all round the place in which
the young girl was, and observed at the extremity of it a
small door, covered over by a mat. I gave it a strong push, and
at the moment, Cajoui, who, with his carbine on cock, was wait
ing for me behind the door, fired straight at me. The fire
and the smoke blinded me, and by a most inconceivable chance
the ball slightly grazed my clothes without wounding me.
Alila, knowing J had no fire-arms, hearing the report, thought
I was killed. He ran up to the top of the steps, and found me
enveloped in a cloud of smoke, with my dagger in my hand,
trying to find my enemy, who seeing me still standing erect,
after he had shot at me, thought, no doubt, I had about me
some anten-anten—a. certain diabolic incantation that, accord
ing to the Indian belief, makes a man invulnerable to all sorts
of fire-arms. The bandit was frightened, jumped out of a
window, and ran away as fast as he could across the forest.

Alila could not believe what had happened to me ; he felt
all over my body, in order to convince himself that the ball had
not passed through me. When he was quite sure that I had
not received a wound, he said to me .

Master, if you had not had the anten-anten about you
you would have been killed."

My Indians always believed I was possessed of this secret,
as well as of many others. For instance, when they often saw
me go for twenty-four, even for thirty-six hours, without eating
or drinking, they became persuaded that I could live in that
manner for an indefinite period ; and one day, a good Tagalese
padre, in whose house I chanced to be, almost went upon his
knees while begging me to communicate to him the power I pos
sessed, as he said, to live without food.

15f> TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

The Tagals have retained all their old superstitions. How
ever, thanks to the Spaniards, they are all Christians ; but they
understand that religion nearly in the way that children do.
They believe that to attend on Sundays and festival days at the
Divine offices, and to go to confession and to communion once
a year, is sufficient for the remission of all their sins. A
little anecdote that occurred to me will show how far they
understand evangelical charity.

One day two young Indians stole some poultry from one of
their neighbours, a'nd they came to sell them to my major-
domo for about sixpence. I had them called before me, to
administer a lecture, and to punish them With the utmost
simplicity they made me this answer :

" It is true, master, we have done wrong, but we could not
do otherwise ; we are to go to communion to-morrow, and we
had not money enough to get a cup of chocolate."

It is a custom with them to take a cup of chocolate after
communion, and it was considered by them a greater sin to
miss taking that than to commit the trifling theft of which
they were guilty.

Two evil-doing demons play an important part among
them, and in which all believed before the conquest of the
Philippine islands. One of those malevolent demons is the
Tic-balan which I have already mentioned, who dwells in
the forests, in the interior of the large fig-trees. This demon
can do every possible harm to anyone who dares not to respect
him, or who does not carry certain herbs about his person ,
every time an Indian passes under one of these fig-trees he
makes a movement towards it with his hand, saying: " Tavit-po,1
Tagal words, signifying : " Lord ! with your permission !" The
lord of the place is the Tic-balan.

INDIAN SUPERSTITION. 157

The other demon is called Azuan. She presides especially
over parturitions in an evil manner, and an Indian is often
seen, when his wife is in labour, perched upon the roof of his
hut, with a sabre in his hand, thrusting the point into the air,
and striking on all sides with the edge, to drive away, as he
says, the Azuan. Sometimes he continues this manoeuvring
for hours, until the labour is over. One of their beliefs — and
one that Europeans might envy — is, that when a child that has
not reached the age of reason dies, it is happy for all the family,
since it is an angel that has gone to heaven, to be the pro
tector of all its relations. The day of the interment is a grand
fete-day ; relations and friends are invited ; they drink, they
dance, and they sing all night in the hut where the child died.
But I perceive that the superstitions of the Indians are draw
ing me from my subject. I shall have occasion, further on, to
describe the manners and customs of these singular people.

I now resume my statement, at the moment when my lieu
tenant tried to assure me that I had some anten-anten, and that
consequently I could not be wounded by a shot fired at me.

He then addressed the young girl, who had remained in
the corner, more dead than alive.

" Ah ! cursed creature !" said he to her ; " you are Cajoui's
mistress : now your turn is come !"

At this moment he advanced towards her with his dagger
in his hand. I ran between him and the poor girl, for I knew
he was capable of killing anyone, particularly after I had been
attacked in a manner that had placed me in danger.

" Wretch !" said I to him, " what are you going to do ?"

" No great things, master ; only to cut off the hair and
ears of this vile woman, and then send her to tell Cajoui that
we shall soon catch him !"

158 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

it cost me much trouble to prevent him from executing his
plan. I was obliged to use all my authority, and to allow him
to burn the cabin, after the terrified young girl, thanks to my
protection, had fled into the forest.

My lieutenant was right in sending word to Cajoui that
we should catch him. Some months after, and several leagues
from the place where we had set fire to his cabin, one day,
when three men of my guard accompanied me, we discovered,
in the thickest part of the wood, a small hut. My Indians
rushed forward in quick time to surround it; but almost all
round it there was found a morass, covered over with sedges
and bushes, when all three sunk in the mud, up to their middle.
As I did not run as fast as they did I perceived the danger,
and went round the marsh, so as to reach the cabin by the
only accessible way. Suddenly I found myself face to face
with Cajoui, and near enough almost to touch him. I had my
dagger in my hand : he. also had his — the struggle began. For
a few seconds we aimed many strokes at each other, which
each of us tried to avoid as well as he could. I think, how
ever, that fortune was turning against me; the point of Cajoui 's
poignard had already entered rather deeply into my right arm,
when with my left hand I took from my belt a large-sized
pistol. I discharged it full at his breast : the ball and the
wadding went through his body. For a few seconds Cajoui
endeavoured still to defend himself; I struck him with all my
force, and he fell at my feet ; I then wrested from him his dagger,
which I still retain. My people came out of the mud-hole and
joined me. Compassion soon replaced the animosity we bore
against Cajoui. We made a sort of litter; I bandaged his
wound, and we carried him more than six leagues in this
manner to my habitation, where he received all the care his state

DEATH OF THE BANDIT. 159

required. Every moment I expected him to die; every quarter
of an hour my people came to tell me how he was ; and they
kept saying to me :

" Master, he cannot die, because he has the anten-anten
upon him ; and it is very lucky that you have some of it too,
and that you fired at him, for our arms would have been of no
avail against him."

I laughed at their simplicity, and expected from one minute
to another to hear that the wounded man had breathed his
last, when my lieutenant brought me, quite joyously, a small
manuscript, about two inches square, saying to me :

" Here, master, is the anten-anten I found upon Cajoui's
body."

At the same time one of my men announced his death.

" Ah I" said Alila, " if I had not taken the anten-anten from
him he would be still alive."

I searched the small book through and through; prayers
and invocations that had not much sense were therein written
in the Tagalese language. A good friar who was present took
it out of my hands. I imagined that he had the same curiosity
as I had, but by no means ; he rose up and went into the
kitchen, and in a short time after came out and told me that
he had made an auto-da-fe of it. My poor lieutenant almost
cried with vexation, for he considered the little book to be his
property, and thought that in possession of it he would be
invulnerable. I should also have wished to have kept it, as a
curious specimen of Indian superstition. The next day I had
much trouble to persuade my stout friend, Father Miguel, to bury
Cajoui in the cemetery. He maintained that a man who died
with the anten-anten upon him ought not to receive Christian
burial. To make him accede to my wishes it was necessary to

ICO TWENTY TEAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

tell him that the anten-anten had been taken from Cajoui before
his death, and that he had time to repent.

A few days after Cajoui's death it was my faithful Alila's
turn to encounter danger, not less imminent than that to which
I had been exposed, at the time of my combat with the bandit
chief. But Alila was brave, and, although he had no anten
anten, fire-arms did not frighten him.

Large vessels — real Noah's arks — freighted by various
merchants, sailed every week from the town of Pasig for that
}f Santa-Cruz, where every Thursday a large market was held.
Eight daring and determined brigands went on board one of
these vessels : they hid their arms among the bales of goods.
The ship was scarcely out at sea when they seized them, and
a horrible scene of slaughter ensued. All who endeavoured to
resist them were butchered, even the pilot was thrown over
board ; at length, finding no more resistance, they plundered
the passengers of the money they had upon them, took every
article of value they could find, and, loaded with their booty,
they steered the vessel to a deserted spot on the shore, where
they landed.

I had been informed of this nefarious enterprise, and
went with haste to the spot where they landed. Unfortunately
I arrived too late, for they had already escaped to the
mountains, after they had divided the spoil. Notwithstanding
the slight hope I entertained of overtaking them, I set off in
pursuit, and after a long march I met an Indian, who in
formed me that one of the bandits, not so good a walker as the
others, was not far off, and that if I and my guards ran quickly
we might overtake him. Alila was the best runner — he was
as fleet as a deer; so I told him : " Set out, Alila, and bring
me that runaway, either dead or alive."

ALILA IS WOUNDED. 161

My brave lieutenant, to be less encumbered in the race,
left his gun with us, took a long spear, and went off. Shortly
after we had lost sight of him we heard the report of fire
arms ; we knew it must be the brigand firing upon Alila,
and we all thought that he was killed or wounded. We
hastened forward, in the hopes of arriving in time to render
him assistance ; but we soon saw him coming leisurely towards
us ; his face and clothes were covered with blood, the spear in
his right hand, and in his left the hideous head of the bandit,
which he carried by the hair — as Judith had formerly done
with that of Holophernes. But my poor Alila was wounded,
and my first care was to examine if the wound was serious.
When I was satisfied it was not dangerous, I asked him for
the details of his combat.

" Master," said he to me, " shortly after I left you I per
ceived the bandit ; he saw me also, and ran off as quickly as ho
could, but I ran faster than he, and was soon close to him.
When he lost all hopes of escaping he turned upon me and
presented his pistol; I was not alarmed, and advanced towards
him at all risk. The pistol was fired, and I felt myself
wounded in the face ; this wound did not stop me. I darted at
him and pierced his body with my spear ; but, as he was too
heavy for me to bring to you, I cut off his head, and here it is."

When I had congratulated Alila upon his success, I ex
amined his wound, and found that a fragment of a ball, cut
into four pieces, had hit him upon the cheek, and was flattened
on the bone. I extracted it, and a speedy cure followed.

Now, as I have almost terminated, and shall not return to,
my numerous adventures with the bandits, I resume the con
tinuation of my ordinary life at Jala-Jala.

fifes i • to.

Tlie House ol La 1'lunthe.

CHAPTEE VIII.

Death of my Brother Robert — Our Party at Jala-Jala — Illness and Last Moments
of my Friend Bermigan — Recovery and Departure for France of Lafond —
Joachim Balthazard: his Eccentricity — Tremendous Gale of Wind — Narrow
Escape in Crossing the Lake — Safe Return to Jala-Jala — Destruction of my
House and the Village by a Typhoon — Rendezvous with a Bandit — Ineffectual
Attempts to Reform Him — His Death — Journey to Tapuzi — Its Inaccessibility
— Government of the Tapuzians — Morality and Religious Character of their
Chief — Their Curiosity at Beholding a White Man — Former Wickedness and
Divine Punishment — We bid Adieu to the Tapuzians, and Return to Jala-Jala.

A T this period a sad event plunged my house into mourning.
**• Letters from my family announced to me that my brother
Robert had returned from Porto-Rico, but that soon after a
serious illness had carried him to the grave. He died in the
arms of my mother and sisters, in the small house of La
Planche, where, as I said before, \ve had all been brought up.

DOMESTIC AFFLICTIONS. 163

My excellent Anna, wept with us, and exerted every means
that interesting affection could suggest to alleviate the grief my
brother Henry and myself experienced from this melancholy
bereavement. A few months afterwards a new source of sorrow
fell to our lot. Our little social party at Jala-Jala consisted
of my sister-in-law ; of Delaunay, a young man from St. Malo,
who had come from Bourbon to establish at Manilla some
manufactories for baking sugar; of Bermigan, a young Spaniard;
and my friend, Captain Gabriel Lafond, like myself, from
Nantes. He had come to the Philippine islands on board the
Fits de France, had passed some years in South America, and
had occupied several places of distinction in the navy, as
captain-commandant, until at last, after many adventures and
vicissitudes, he came with a small fortune to Manilla, where he
bought a vessel, and set sail for the Pacific Ocean, to fish for
the balati or sea- worm. He had scarcely reached the island
of Tongatabou when the vessel struck upon the rocks that
surround this island ; he saved himself by swimming to the
shore, having lost everything. From thence he went to the
Marianne islands, where grief and bad food caused him to fall
ill ; he returned to Manilla, labouring under dysentry. I had
him brought to my house, and whilst there attended to him
with all the care a fellow-countryman and a good friend
endowed with sterling and amiable qualities, deserved. Our
evenings were spent in amusing and instructive conversation.
As we had all travelled a great deal, each had somethimg to
relate. During the day the invalids kept company with the
ladies, while my brother and myself followed our respective
avocations. But soon, alas ! a shocking event disturbed the
calm that reigned at Jala-Jala. Bermigan fell so dangerously
ill, that a few days sufficed to convince me there was no hope

164 TWENTY YEAHS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

of saving him. I shall never forget the fatal night : we were
all assembled in the drawing-room, grief and consternation
were in every heart and pourtrayed in every countenance ; in an
adjoining room a few short steps from us, we heard the death-
rattle of poor Bermigan, who had only a few minutes to live.
My excellent friend, Lafond, whom sickness had reduced
almost to the last stage, broke silence, and said: "Well!
poor Bermigan goes to-day, and in a few days, perhaps to
morrow, it will be my turn. Just see ! my dear Don Pablo ;
I may almost say that I no longer exist. Look at my feet —
my body ! I am & mere skeleton ; I can scarcely take any
food. Ah ! it is better to be dead than live like this ! "

I was so persuaded that his forebodings would not be de
layed in being realized, that I scarcely dared to utter the
smallest consolation or any hopes. Who could then have told
me that he and I alone were to survive all those who sur
rounded us, full of life and health ? But, alas ! let us not here
anticipate future events.

Poor Bermigan breathed his last. Our house at Jala-
Jala was no longer untouched by the hand of Death — a human
being had expired therein ; and on the following day, in sadness
and silence, we all proceeded to the cemetery, to inter the body
of our friend, and to render him the last proofs of our respect.
The body was laid at the foot of a large cross, which is placed
in the centre of the grave-yard. For many days sadness and
silence prevailed in our home at Jala-Jala.

Some time afterwards I had the gratification to see the
efforts I employed for my friend Lafond were successful. By
means of the strong remedies I administered his health was
speedily restored, his appetite returned, and he was soon able
to set sail for France. He is now residing in Paris, married

JOACniM BALTHAZARD — HIS ECCENTEICITY. 165

to a woman possessed of every quality necessary to make a
man happy, and is the father of three children. Holding an
honourable position, and enjoying public esteem, he has never
forgotten the six months he spent at Jala-Jala, for ingratitude
never sullied his noble, loving, and devoted heart. A sincere
attachment still subsists between us, and I am happy thus to
assure him that he is, and ever will be, to me a valued friend.*

As I have now mentioned several persons who resided for
some time at Jala-Jala, I must not forget one of my colonists,
Joachim Balthazard, a native of Marseilles, as eccentric a man
as I have ever known. When Joachim was young, he set sail
from Marseilles. When he arrived at Bourbon, his name not
being on the crew's list, he was arrested, and put on board the
Astrolabe, which was then making a voyage round the world.
He deserted at the Marianne islands, and came to the Philip
pines in the greatest distress, and addressed himself to some
good friars, in order, as he said, to effect his conversion
and his salvation. He lived among them, and at their ex
pense, for nearly two years ; afterwards he opened a coffee
house at Manilla, and spent in pleasure and debauchery a large
sum of money that a fellow-countryman and I had advanced him.
He afterwards built upon my grounds a large straw edifice, that
had more the appearance of a huge magazine than of a house.
There he kept a kind of seraglio, adopted all the children
which his numerous wives gave him, and, with his own family,
made his house not unlike a mutual school. Whenever he was
weary of either of his wives he called one of his workmen,
saying to him in the most serious manner :

"There is a wife that I give you; be a good husband,
treat her well : and you, woman, this is your husband, te faith
* See Appendix, No. 1.

166 TWENTx YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

ful to him. Go, may God bless you ! Be off, and let me never
see you again."

He was generally without a farthing, or all of a sudden
rich with heavy sums, that were spent in a few days. He
borrowed from everybody, and never paid them back ; he lived
like a real Indian, and was as cowardly as a half-drowned
chicken. His light-coloured hair, sallow complexion, and beard
less face, gave him the nick-name among the Indians of
Onela-Dogou, Tagalese words, that signify "one who has no
blood."

As I was one day crossing over the lake in a small canoe
with him and two Indians, we were assailed by one of those
extraordinary gales of wind, which in the Chinese seas are called
Tay-Foung (typhoon). These gales of wind, though extremely
rare, are tremendous. The sky is covered with the heaviest
clouds ; the rain pours in torrents ; the day-light disappears,
almost as much as in the densest fog; and the wind blows with
such fury that it throws down everything it reaches in its
course.*

We were in our canoe ; the wind had scarcely begun to
"blow with all its violence than Balthazard commenced to
invoke all the saints in Paradise. Almost in despair, he cried
out aloud

44 Oh, God ! have mercy upon me, a wretched sinner ! Grant
me the grace that I may have an opportunity of confessing my
sins, and of receiving absolution !"

All these lamentations and appeals served only to frighten
my two Indians, and most undoubtedly our position was critical
enough for us to endeavour to retain our presence of mind, so

* I experienced two such ^ales during my residence, at Jala-Jala — the
one I am now speaking of, and another to which I shall afterwards allude.

TREMENDOUS GALE OF WIND. 16'*

as to attend to the management of our little boat, which from
one moment to another was in danger of being swam^od. How
ever, I was certain that, being provided with two large beams
of bamboos, it could keep its position in the current between
two waters and not capsize, if we had the precaution and
strength to scud before the wind, and not turn the side to a
wave, for in such case we should all have been drowned.
What I foresaw, happened. A wave burst upon us ; for a few
minutes we were plunged iii the deep, but when the wave
passed over we came above water. Our canoe was swamped
between the currents, but we did not abandon it ; we put our.
legs under the seats, and held them fast ; the half of our body
was above water. But every time that a wave came towards
us it passed over our heads, and then went off, giving us
time to breathe until another wave came and dashed over us.
Every three or four minutes the same manoeuvring took place.
My Indians and I used all our strength and skill to scud on
before the wind. Balthazard had ceased his lamentations ; we
all kept silence; from time to time I only uttered these words :
"-Take courage, boys, we shall reach the shore."
Our position then became much worse, for night set in.
The rain continued to pour in torrents, the wind increased in
fuiy. From time to time we received gome light from globes
of fire, like what the sailors call " Saint Elmo's fire." While
these rays of light continued I looked as far around me as I
could, and only perceived an immense body of water in furious
agitation. For nearly two hours we were tossed about by the
waves that drove us towards the beach, and, at a moment when
we least expected it, we found ourselves driven into the midst of
an extensive grove of lofty bamboos. I then knew that we were
over the land, and that the lake had inundated the country for

168 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

several miles around. We were up to our breasts in water,
and it was not in our power to pass through the inundation.
The darkness was too great to allow us to go in any direction ;
our canoe was no longer of any use to us, as it was entangled
among the bamboos. We climbed up the trees as well as we
could, even to the height where the bamboos end in sharp
points ; our bodies were much torn by the sharp thorns grow
ing on the small branches ; the rain continued to pour without
intermission ; the wind still blowed, and each gust caused the
bamboos to bend, the flexible branches of which tore our
bodies and faces. I have suffered a great deal in the course
of my life, but no night ever appeared to me so long and cruel as
this 1 Joachim Balthazard then recovered his speech, and, in a
trembling, broken voice, said to me :

" Ah ! Don Pablo, do write I beg of you, to my mother,
and tell her the tragical end of her son !"

I could not help answering him : "You cowardly rascal!
Do you think, then, that I am more at my ease than you are ?
Hold your tongue, otherwise I shall make you turn diver, so
that I may never hear you again." Poor Joachim then knew
what to do, and did not utter a word ; only from time to time
he made us aware of his trouble by his deep moans.

The wind, which was blowing from the north-west, towards
four o'clock in the morning suddenly changed to the east,
and shortly afterwards gave over. It was almost daylight :
we were saved. We could at last see one another ; all four
of us looked in a wretched condition ; our clothes being torn
to pieces. Our bodies were lacerated, and covered with deep
scratches. The cold had penetrated into the very marrow of
our bones, and the long bath we had taken had wrinkled the
skin ; we looked just like drowned people taken out of the

OUR MIRACULOUS ESCAPE FROM DROWNING. 169

water, where they had been for some hours. Nevertheless,
crippled as we were, we slipped down from the bamboos, and
were soon bathing in the waters of the lake. The effect
was healthful and agreeable : it seemed like a warm bath at
30 degrees of heat.

We were quite restored by this mild temperature. We got
our canoe out of the grove, where fortunately it had been caught
so fast that neither the waves nor the currents could drive it
any farther. We again set it afloat, and soon succeeded in
reaching an Indian hut, where we dried ourselves, and recruited
our strength. Calm was now re-established ; the sun shone in
all its splendour, but everywhere traces of the typhoon were
visible. In the course of the day we reached Jala-Jala, where
our arrival caused great joy. They knew at home that I was
on the lake, and everything led them to presume that I had
perished. My good and dear Anna threw herself into my
arms in tears; she had been in such anxiety for my safety,
that for some moments the tears that flowed down her cheeks
alone expressed her joy at again seeing me.

Balthazard returned to his seraglio. As long as he was
under my protection the Indians respected him, but after my
departure from Jala-Jala he was assassinated ; and all those
who knew him agreed that he had deserved his fate for more
than one cause.

As I have mentioned this typhoon, I am going to an
ticipate a little, in describing, as briefly as possible, a still more
frightful one than that which I experienced in my slight canoe
and in the bamboo grove.

I had just completed some pretty baths upon the lake
opposite my house. I was quite satisfied and proud of pro
curing this new pleasure for my wife. On the very day that

H

170 TWENTY YEAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES

the Indians had added the last ornaments to them, towards
evening a western wind began to blow furiously ; by degrees
the waters of the lake became agitated, and shortly we no longer
doubted but that we were going to have a typhoon.

My brother and I stayed some time examining, through
the panes of glass, whether the baths would resist the strength
of the wind, but in a heavy squall my poor edifice disappeared
like a castle made of cards. We withdrew from the window,
and luckily too, for a heavier squall than that which had
destroyed the baths burst in the windows that faced to the
•west. The wind drove through the house, and opened a way
for itself, by throwing down all the wall over the entrance-door.
The lake was so agitated that the waves went over my house,
and inundated all the apartments. We were not able to remain
there any longer. By assisting each other, my wife, my
brother, a young Frenchman who was then staying at Jala-
Jala, and myself, succeeded in reaching a room on the ground-
floor ; the light came from a very small window ; there, in
almost total darkness, we spent the greater part of the night,
my brother and I leaning our shoulders against the window,
opposing with all our strength that of the wind, which threat
ened to force it in. In this small room there were several
jars of brandy : my excellent Anna poured some into the
hollow of her hand, and gave it us to drink, to support our
strength and to warm us. At break of day the wind ceased,
and calm re-appeared. All the furniture and decorations of
my house were broken and shattered to pieces ; all the rooms
were inundated, and the store-rooms were full of sand, carried
there by the waters of the lake. Soon my house became an
asylum for my colonists, who had all spent a wretched night,
and were without shelter.

DESTRUCTION OF THE VILLAGE 171

The sun soon shone splendidly ; the sky was cloudless ;
but my sadness was extreme when, from a window, I examined
the disasters produced by the typhoon. There was no village !
Every hut was levelled to the ground. The church was thrown
down — my store-houses, my sugar factory, were entirely de
stroyed ; there was then nothing more than heaps of ruins.
My fine cane-fields were altogether destroyed, and the country,
which previously had appeared so beautiful, seemed as if
it had passed through a long wintry season. There was
no longer any verdure to be seen ; the trees were entirely leaf
less, with their boughs broken, and portions of the wood were
entirely torn down ; and all this devastation had taken place
within a few hours. During that and the following day the
lake threw up, upon the shore, the bodies of several unfortu
nate Indians who had perished. The first care of Padre
Miguel was to bury the dead, and for a long time afterwards
there were to be seen, in the grave-yard of Jala-Jala, crosses,
with the inscription : "An unknown who died during the typhoon.''
My Indians began immediately to rebuild their huts, and I, as
far as possible, to repair my disasters.

The fertile nature of the Philippine islands speedily effaced
the aspect of mourning which it had assumed. In less than
eight days the trees were completely covered with new leaves,
and exhibited themselves as in a brilliant summer, after the
frightful winter had passed over. The typhoon had embraced
a diameter of about two leagues, and, like a violent hurricane,
had upset and shattered everything it met during its course.

But enough of disasters : I return to the epoch when the
death of poor Bermigan caused affliction to us all.

All was prosperity in my dwelling : my Indians were happy ;
the population of Jala- Jala increased every day ; I was beloved

172 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

and respected. I had rendered great service to the Spanish
government by the incessant warfare I carried on against the
bandits ; and I may say that even amongst them I enjoyed a
high reputation. They looked upon me, indeed, as their enemy,
but in the light of a brave enemy, incapable of committing
any act of baseness against them, and who carried on an honour
able warfare ; and the Indian character was so well known to
me, that I did not fear they would play me any low tricks,
or would treacherously attack me. Such was my conviction,
that around my house I was never accompanied by day or by
night. I traversed without fear all the forests and mountains,
and I often even treated with these honourable bandits, as one
power does with another, by not disdaining the invitations
sometimes sent to me to come to a certain place, where, with
out fear of surprise, they could consult me, or even invoke my
assistance. This sort of rendezvous was always held in the
night, and in very lonely places. On their side, as well as on
mine, a promise given of not doing any injury to each other
was religiously observed. In these nocturnal conversations,
held without witnesses, I often brought back to a life of peace
mistaken men, whom the turbulence of youth had thrown into
a series of crimes, which the laws would have visited with
most severe punishment. Sometimes, however, I failed in my
attempts, and especially when I had to do with proud and un-
tameable characters, such as are to be found among men who
never have had any other guide but natural instinct. One
day, among others, I received a letter from a half-breed, a
great criminal, who infested the neighbouring province of
Laguna ; he told me that he wished to see me, and begged me
to come alone in the middle of the night to a wild spot, where
he would also come alone: I did not hesitate to go to the

DEATH OF A BANDIT. 173

place appointed. I found him there as he had promised me.
He told me that he wished to change his mode of life, and to
dwell on my estate. He added, that he had never committed
any crime against the Spaniards, hut only against the Indians
and the half-breeds. It would have been impossible for me to
have received him without compromising myself. I proposed
to place him in the house of a friar, where he might remain
concealed for several years, until his crimes were forgotten,
and then he could enter into society. After a moment's re
flection, he replied :

" No, that would be to lose mv liberty. To live as a slave!
I would prefer to die."

I then proposed to him to go to Tapuzi, a place where
the bandits, when hotly pursued, were enabled to conceal them
selves with impunity. — (I shall very soon have occasion to
speak of this village.) — The half-breed, with an insignificant
gesture, replied :

" No ; the person I wish to take with me would not come
there. You can do nothing for me, adieu !"

He then pressed my hand, and we separated. Some days
afterwards, a hut in which he was seen, near Manilla, was sur
rounded by the troops of the line. The bandit then caused
the owners of the hut to quit it, and when he saw them out of
danger he took his carabine and began firing upon the soldiers,
who on their side returned the attack on the hut. When
it was riddled with balls, and the bandit had ceased to de
fend himself, a soldier approached the hut and set fire to it,
so great was the fear they entertained of then finding him
alive.

These nocturnal interviews having led me to mention
Tapuzi, I cannot refrain from dedicating a few lines to this

JT4 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

remarkable retreat, where men, when proscribed by the law,
live together in a sort of accord and union of a most extra
ordinary kind.

Tapuzi,* which in the Tagal language, signifies " end of
the world," is a little village, situate in the interior of the
mountains, nearly twenty-five leagues from Jala-Jala. It was
formed there by bandits and men who had escaped from the
galleys, who live in liberty, govern themselves, and are alto
gether, on account of the inaccessible position which they
occupy, safe from any pursuit which could be ordered against
them by the Spanish government. I had often heard this
singular village mentioned, but I had never met anyone who
had visited it, or could give me any positive details relative to
it. One day, therefore, I resolved to go thither myself. I
stated my intention to my lieutenant, who said :

" Master, I shall find there, no doubt, some of my old
comrades, and then we shall have nothing to fear."

Three of us set out together, under the pretext of quite a
different journey. For two days we walked in the midst of
mountains, by paths almost impracticable. The third day
we reached a torrent, the bed of which was blocked up by
enormous stones. This ravine was the only road by which we
could get to Tapuzi ; it was the natural and impregnable ram
part which defended the village against the attack of the Spanish
troops. My lieutenant had just told me :

"Look, master, above your head. None but the inhabit
ants of Tapuzi know the paths which lead to the top of the
mountains. All along the length of the ravine they have placed
enormous stones, that they have only to push to throw them

* Tapuzi is situated in the mountains of Limutan. Limntan is a
Tagalese word, signifying "altogether forgotten."

JOURNEY TO TAPUZI. 175

down upon those who should come to attack them ; a whole
army could not penetrate among them, if they wished to give
any opposition."

I clearly saw that we were not in a very agreeable position,
and against which, if the Tapuzians should consider us as
enemies, we could oppose no defence. But we were involved
in it, and there was no means of retreating, it was absolutely
necessary to go to Tapuzi. We had been already more than
an hour in this ravine when an immense block of stone fell
down perpendicularly, and broke into pieces only twenty yards
before us : it was a warning. We stopped, laid dowrn our
arms, and sat down. Perhaps just such another block as
what had fallen was hanging over our heads, ready to crush
us to pieces. We heard a scream near us. I told my lieu
tenant to proceed alone towards the direction it came from. In
a few minutes he returned, accompanied by two Indians, who,
confident in my pacific intentions towards them, came to fetch
us, to take us to the village. We proceeded cheerfully on the
remainder of the road until we reached the spot where ended
the sort of funnel we were walking in. Upon this height there
was to be seen a plain, some miles in circumference, sur
rounded by high mountains. The part that we were in was
stopped up by enormous blocks of rocks, lying one on the top
of the other. From behind stretched forth an abrupt threat
ening mountain, without any signs of vegetation — not unlike an
ancient European fortress, that some magical power had raised
in the midst of the high mountains that commanded it. With
one glance I beheld the whole of the site we were crossing,
and at the same time reflected upon the great varieties nature
presents to our view. We soon reached the long wished-
for object of our journey — the village of Tapuzi. It lies at the

J76 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

extreme end of a plain, composed of about sixty thatched huts,
similar to those of the Indians. The inhabitants were all at
their windows, to witness our arrival. Our guides conducted
us to their chief, or Matanda-sanayon, a fine old man, from the
look of his face about eighty years of age. He bowed affably
to us, and addressed himself to me.

" How are you come here — as a friend, or is it curiosity—
or do the cruel laws of the Spaniards perhaps compel you to
seek refuge among us ? If such is the case, you are welcome ;
you will find us brothers."

" No," I said to him ; " we do not come to stay among you. 1
am your neighbour, and lord of Jala- Jala. I am come to see
you, to offer you my friendship, and to ask yours."

At the name Jala-Jala the old man looked quite astonished ;
he then said to me :

14 It is a long time since I heard you spoken of as an agent
of the government for pursuing unfortunate men, but I have
heard also that you fulfilled your mission with much kindness,
and that often you were their protector, so be welcome."

After this first recognition they presented us some mill
and some kidney potatoes, and during our repast the old mar
conversed freely with me.

" Several years ago," said he to me, "at a period I cannot
recollect, some men came to live in Tapuzi. The peace and
safety they enjoyed made others imitate their example, who
sought like themselves to avoid the punishment of some faults
they had committed. We soon saw fathers of families, with
their wives and children flock hither; this was the foundation
of the small government that you see. Now here almost all
is iii common ; some fields of kidney potatoes or Indian corn,
and hunting, suffice for us ; he who possesses anything gives

GOVERNMENT OF THE TAPUZIANS.

to him who has nothing Almost all our clothing is knitted and
woven by our wives ; the abaca, or vegetable silk, from the forest
supplies us the thread that is necessary ; we do not know what
money is, we do not require any. Here there is no ambition ;
each one is certain of not suffering from hunger. From time to
time strangers come to visit us. If they are willing to submit
to our laws, they remain with us ; they have a fortnight of pro
bation to go through before they decide. Our laws are lenient
and indulgent. We have not forgotten the religion of our
forefathers, and God no doubt will forgive me my first faults,
on account of my efforts for so many years to promote his
worship, and the well-being of my equals."

" But," said I to him, " who is your chief, who are your
judges and priests ?"

" It is I," said he, " who fulfil all those functions. Formerly
they lived like savages here. I was young, robust, and devoted
to all my brothers. Their chief had just expired : I was chosen
to replace him. I then took care to do nothing but what was
just, and conducive to the happiness of those who confided in me.
Until then they had devoted but little attention to religion : I
wished to put my people in mind that they were born Christians.
I appointed one hour every Sunday for us to pray together,
and I have invested myself with all the attributes of a minister
of the Gospel. I celebrate the marriages, I pour water upon
the foreheads of the infants, and I offer consolations to the
dying. In my youth, I was a chorister; I remembered the
church ceremonies; and if I do not actually possess the
necessary attributes for the functions I have given myself, I
practise them with faith and love. This is the reason I trust
that my good intentions will obtain my forgiveness from Him
who is the Sovereign Lord of all."

H*

178

TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

During the whole time of the old man's conversation I was
in continual admiration. I was among people who had the
reputation of living in the greatest licentiousness as thieves
and robbers. Their character was altogether misunderstood.
It wasa real, great phalanstery, composed of brothers, almost all
worthy of the name. Above all I admired this fine old man, who,
with moral principles and simple laws, had governed them for
so many years. On the other hand, what an example that was
of free men not being able to live without choosing a chief, and
bringing one another back to the practice of virtuous actions !

I explained to the old man all my thoughts. I bestowed
upon him a thousand praises for his conduct, and assured him
that the Archbishop of Manilla would approve all the religious

Church of Pandacan, tn the

M\a of Manilla.

THEIB CURIOSITY DIVINE PUNISHMENT. l79

acts he performed with so noble an object. 1 even offered to
intercede with the archbishop in his behalf, that he might
send a pastor to assist him. But he replied :

" No, thank you, sir ; never speak about us. We should
certainly be glad to have a minister of the Gospel here, but
soon, under his influence, we should be subjected to the
Spanish government. It would be requisite for us to have
money to pay our contributions. Ambition would soon creep
in amongst us, and from the freedom which we now enjoy, we
should gradually sink into a state of slavery, and should no
longer be happy. Once more I entreat of you, do not speak
of us : give me your word that you will not."

This argument appeared so just to me that I acquiesced to
his request. I again gave him all the praise he deserved, and
promised never to disturb the peace of the inhabitants of his
village under any pretext whatever.

In the evening we received visits from all the inhabitants,
particularly from the women and children, who all had an im
moderate curiosity to see a white man. None of the Tapuzian
women had ever been out of their village, and had scarcely ever
lost sight of their huts ; it was not, therefore, astonishing that
they were so curious.

The next day I went round the plain, and visited the fields
of kidney potatoes and Indian corn, the principal nourishment
of the inhabitants. The old chief and some elderly people
accompanied me. When we reached the spot where, upon the
eve, I had already remarked enormous blocks of rock, the old
man paused and told me :

"Look yonder, Castilla.* At a time when the Tapuz/ans

• In the eyes of the natives of Tagal all Europeans are Spaniards.

180 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

were without religion, and lived as wild beasts, God punished
them. Look at all the part of that mountain quite stripped
of vegetation : one night, during a tremendous earthquake,
that mountain split in two — one part swallowed up the half
of the village that then stood on the place where those enormous
rocks are. A few hundred steps further on all would have
been destroyed ; there would no longer have existed a single
person in Tapuzi : but a part on the population was not injured,
and came and settled themselves where the village now is.
Since then we pray to the Almighty, and live in a manner so
as not to deserve so severe a chastisement as that experienced
by the wretched victims of that awful night."

The conversation and society of this old man — I might say
the King of Tapuzi — was most interesting to me. But I had al
ready been four days absent from Jala-Jula. I ordered my
lieutenant to prepare for our departure. We bid most affec
tionate adieus to our hosts, and set off. In two days I re
turned home, quite pleased with my journey and the good
inhabitants of Tapuzi.

Hunting party fit Jala-JaJa.

CHAPTER IX.

Suppression of War between two Indian Towns — Flourishing Condition of Jala-
Jala — Hospitality to Strangers — Field Sports — Bat and Lizard Shooting —
Visit to, and Description of, the Isle of Socolme — Adventure with a Cayman —
Cormorants — We Visit Los Banos — Monkey Shooting — Expedition to, and
Description of, the Grotto of San-Mateo— Magnificent aspect of the Interior.

T FOUND Anna in great trouble, not only on account of my

absence, but because, on the previous evening, information

had been received that the inhabitants of the two largest towns

182 TWENTY YE ACS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

in the province had, as it was stated, declared war against each
other ; the most courageous amongst them, to the number of
three or four hundred on each side, had started for the island of
Talem. There both parties, in the presence of each other,
were upon the point of engaging in a battle ; already, while
skirmishing, several had been mortally wounded.

This news frightened Anna she knew that I was not a
man who would await quietly at home the issue of the battle ;
she already fancied she saw me, with my ten guards, engaged
in the thick of the fight, and perhaps a victim of my devoted-
ness. I comforted her as I had always done, promising to be
prudent, and not forget her ; but there was not a moment to
lose ; it was necessary, at all risks, to try to put an end to a
conflict that might no doubt cause the death of many men.
How could I do so with my ten guards ? Dare I pretend to
impose my will as law on this vast multitude ? Clearly not.
To attempt to do it by force would be to sacrifice all : what
was to be done ? Arm all my Indians — but I had not boats
enough to carry them to Talem : in this difficulty I decided
upon setting out alone with my lieutenant. We took our arms,
and set sail in a canoe, that we steered ourselves ; we had
scarcely come near the beach within hail of the shore, 'when
some armed Indians called out to us to stand off, otherwise
they would fire upon us. Without paying attention to this
threat, my lieutenant and I, some minutes later, jumped boldly
on shore, and after a few steps we found ourselves in the midst
of the combatants.

I went immediately up to the chiefs and addressed them.

" Wretched men," I said to them, " what are you going to do?
It is upon you who command that the severity of the law will
fall. It is still time : try to deserve your pardon. Order your

MY SUPPRESSION OF A NATIVE WAR.

men to give me up their arms ; lay down your own, or else in a
few minutes I will place myself at the head of your enemies
to fight against you. Obey, if not you will be treated as
rebels."

They listened attentively to me ; they were half conquered.
However, one of them made me this reply :

" And if you take away our arms who will satisfy us that
our enemies will not come to attack us ? "

"I will," I told them; "I give you my word; and if
they do not obey me as you are going to do, I will return
to you, I will give you back your arms, and will fight at
your head."

These words, said with a tone of authority and command,
produced the effect I expected. The chiefs, without uttering
a word, laid their arms at my feet. Their example was fol
lowed by all the combatants, and, in a moment, a heap of cara
bines, guns, spears, and cutlasses were laid down before me.
I appointed ten among these individuals who had just obeyed
me, gave them each a gun, and told them :

" I confide to you the care of these arms. If anyone at
tempts to take possession of them, fire upon the assailants."

I pretended to take down their names, and went off to the
opposite camp, where I found all the combatants on foot, ready
to march and fight against their enemies. I stopped them,
saying :

" The battle is over — your enemies are disarmed. You,
too, must give me up your arms, or else immediately embark
in your canoes, and go home. If you do not obey me, I will
give back their arms instantly to your opponents, and 1 will
put myself at their head to fight against you. Perform what
I command you ; I promise you all shall be forgotten."

184 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

There was no room for hesitation. The Indians knew that
I did not allow much time for reflection, and that my threats and
chastisements followed each other closely. Shortly after, they
all embarked in their canoes. I remained on the beach alone,
with my lieutenant, until I had almost lost sight of this small
fleet. I then returned to the other camp, where I was impa
tiently expected. I announced to the Indians they had no
longer any enemies, and that consequently they could go back
quietly to their village.

But a few days elapsed, as may be seen, without my having
new dangers to encounter. I was accustomed to them : I
relied upon my star, and triumphed from all my imprudences.
My Indians were blindly submissive to me. I was so certain
of their fidelity, that I no longer took against them the precau
tions which I considered necessary during the first year of
my residence at Jala-Jala.

My Anna took part every day more and more in my
labours, anxieties, and even in some of my dangers. Would it
have been possible not to have loved her with deeper affection,
than that which one feels for a companion leading a peaceful
and insignificant life ? With what gladness she received me
after the shortest absence ! Joy and satisfaction shone on her
face, her caresses were as a balsam that healed all my lassi
tude, and even the reproaches she addressed me so gently, for
the uneasiness I had caused her, fell upon my heart as drops
of beatitude.

Jala-Jala was most flourishing ; immense fields of rice,
sugar-cane, and coffee, had taken the place of woods and forests
unproductive in themselves. Rich pasture-grounds were co
vered with numerous flocks ; and a fine Indian village stood
in the centre of the labouring-ground. Here, there was every-

HOSPITALITY TO STRANGERS.

185

where to be seen plenty, activity ; and joy smiled on the coun
tenances of all the inhabitants. My own dwelling had become
the rendezvous, or resorting-place, of all the travellers arriving
at Manilla, and a refuge of
convalescence of many pa
tients, who would come
and breathe the good and
mild air of Jala-Jala, as
well as enjoy its pleasures
and amusements. Under
that roof there was no dis
tinction, no difference; all
were equals in our eyes,

Caccujus txxir Jala-lain.

186 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

whether French, Spanish, English, American. No matter to
what nation belonged those who landed at Jala-Jala, they were
received like brothers, and with all that cordial hospitality to
to be found formerly in our colonies. My visitors enjoyed full
and active liberty on my little estate ; but he who was not
desirous of eating alone was obliged to remember the time of
meals : during the other hours of the day one and all followed
their own inclinations. For instance, naturalists went in pur
suit of insects and birds, and made an ample harvest of every
species of plants. Persons ailing met with the assiduous care
of a physician, as well as with the kind attention and enjoyed
the company of a most amiable and well-informed mistress of
the house, who had the natural talent of enchanting all those
who spent but a short time in her society. They who liked
walking might look about for the fine views, and choose their
resting-place either in the woods, the mountains, near the
cascades or the brooks, or on the beautiful borders of the
lake.

But to sportsmen Jala-Jala was really a " promised land ;"
there they always found a good pack of hounds, Indians to
guide them, good stout horses to carry them across the various
mountains and plains, where the stag and wild boar were to be
met with most plentifully ; and were they desirous of less
fatiguing exercise, they only had to jump into some of our
light canoes, and skim over the blue waters, shooting on their
way at the hosts of aquatic birds flying around them in all di
rections, — they could even land on the various small islands
situated between Jala-Jala and the isle of Talem. There they
could find a sort of sport utterly unknown in Europe— that is,
immense bats, a species of vampire, designated by naturalists
by the name of roussettes. During six months in the year, at

LA GIRONIERE IX HIS HUNTING DRESS. — Page 180.

BAT AND LIZARD SHOOTING. 187

the period of the eastern monsoon, every tree on these little
isles is covered, from the topmost down to the lowest branch,
with those huge bats, that supply the place of the foliage
which they have entirely destroyed. Muffled up in their
vast wings they sleep during the whole day, and in the night
time they start off in large bodies roaming about in search
of their prey. But as soon as the western monsoon has sue
ceeded the eastern, they disappear, and repair always to the
same place, — the eastern coast of Luzon, where they take
shelter; after the monsoon changed, they return to their
former quarters.

As soon as our guests would alight upon one of. these
islands, they opened their fire, and continued it till —
frightened by so many explosions and the screams of the
wounded, clinging to and hanging from the branches — the bats
would fly away in a body — en masse. For some time they would
whirl and turn round and round like a dense cloud over their
abandoned home, imitating, in a most perfect way, those furies
we see in certain engravings representing the infernal regions,
and then, flying off a short distance, would perch upon the
trees in a neighbouring isle. If the sportsmen were not over-
fatigued by the slaughter they might then follow them, and
set-to again ; but they generally found they had made victims
enough, and diversified their pleasure by picking up the slain
from under the trees. The bat shooting over, our sportsmen
would then proceed to a new sport —

" To fresh fields and pastures new ;"

that is, in pursuit of and shooting at the iguanas, a large
species of lizard, measuring from five to six feet long, which
infest the rocks on the borders of the lake. Tired of firing

188 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

without being obliged to show any skill, our chasseurs would
re-embark in their pirogues and row in search of new amuse
ment, — this was, to shoot at the eagles that came hovering over
their heads. Here skill was requisite, as well as a prompt,
sure glance of the eye, as it is only with ball that these enor
mous birds of prey can be reached. Our fowlers would then
return home, with their boats full of game ; and everyone, of
course, had his own feats of prowess to relate.

The flesh of the iguana and the bat is savoury and delicate ;
but as for its taste, that entirely depends upon the imagina
tion, as may here be seen.

After returning from one of these grand shooting excursions
to the minor islands, a young American informed me that his
friends and he himself were most desirous of tasting the
iguana and the bat; so, supposing them all to be of the
same mind, I ordered my maitre-dlwtel to prepare for dinner
a curry of iguana and a ragout of bats. The first dish served
round at dinner was the curry, of which they one and all par
took with very good appetite ; upon which I ventured to say :
" You see the flesh of the iguana is most delicate." At these
words all my guests turned pale, and they all, by a sudden
motion, pushed their plates from before them, not even being
able to swallow what their mouths contained. I was therefore
obliged to order the removal of the entrees of iguana and bats
before we could proceed with the repast.

When it was in my power, I would accompany my guests
in their excursions, and then the chase was abundant and full
of interest, because I ever took care to guide them towards
places abounding in game and very picturesque. Sometimes
I would take them to the isle of Socolme, a still more curious
place indeed than the baf islands. Socolme is a circular lake —

THE ISLE AND LAKE OF SOCOLME. 189

being one league in circumference — in the midst of the great
lake of Bay, from which it is separated by a cordon or ribbon of
land ; or, to express myself better, by a mountain which rises
to an elevation of from twelve to fifteen hundred feet; the
centre of the mountain at the summit is occupied by the lake
of Socolme, and is evidently the crater of an extinct volcano.
Both sides are completely covered with large trees of luxuriant
growth. It is on the border of the small lake — where the Indians
never go, through fear of the caymans — that almost all the aquatic
birds of the grand lake resort to lay their eggs. Every tree, white
with the guano which they deposit there, is covered with birds'-
nests, full of eggs and birds of every size and age.

One day, in company of my brother and Mr. Hamilton
Lindsay,* an Englishman, who was as fearless an explorer as
ourselves, I started from the plantation, with the intention of
having some light canoes carried across the high ground which
separates the Socolme lake from the lake of Bay, and of using
them on the lake; and, after overcoming many difficulties, we,
by the assistance of our Indians, carried out this project.

We were the first tourists that ever ventured to expose our
lives on this Socolme lake. The Indians who had come with
us refused most decidedly to enter the boats, and exerted all
their eloquence to prevent us from going on the water. They
spoke to us thus : —

" You are going, for no good purpose, to expose yourselves
to very great dangers, against which you have no means of
defence, for before you have gone far you will see thousands of

* While this work was in the press, Mr. Hamilton Lindsay, who has
already published an account of his " Voyage to the Northern Ports of
China," kindly furnished the Publishers with confirmatory proofs of
M. de la Gironiere's narrative, see Appendix, No. II.

190 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

caymans rising out of the deep water; they will come to attack
you, and what can you oppose to those ferocious and invulner
able monsters ? Your guns and bullets connot wound them.
And as for escape by rowing quickly, that is not possible. In
their own element they swim much faster than your canoes,
and when they come up to you they will turn your boats up-side-
down with far more ease than you can drive it along ; and then
the frightful scene will begin, from which you cannot escape."

There was much good sense in what they said, and there
can be no doubt that it was most imprudent of us to em
bark in a little frail canoe, and to make a trip over a lako
inhabited by such numbers of caymans, and especially since it
was to be feared that the lake did not supply fish enough to
satisfy their voracity ; and of course when enraged by hunger
they were more to be dreaded.

But we were never deterred by dangers or difficulties ; so,
taking no account of the prognostics of my prudent Indians,
we, while they were delivering their long speeches, had lashed
together two canoes for greater security.

We had not proceeded many yards from the bank, when we
all experienced feelings of alarm, attributable, no doubt, to the
expectation of danger being immediate, as well aS to the aspect
of the place which presented itself to our view.

We were down in the deepest part of a gulf, surrounded by
lofty and precipitous mountains, which were externally covered
with very thick vegetation. They, on all sides, presented a bar
rier, through which it was impossible to pass. The shadows
which they cast over the water, at the extreme point of the
lake, produced the effect of half darkness, which, in conjunction
with the silence prevailing in that dismal solitude, gave it an
aspect so dreary and saddening, as to produce in us most painful

ADVENTURE WITH A CAYMAN. 191

feelings ; each of us as it were, struck with terror, kept his
thoughts to himself, and no one spoke.

Our canoes went on, moving farther and farther from the
brink from which we had embarked ; and it glided easily over
the glassy sheet of water, which is never agitated by even the
roughest gales, and does not receive the rays of the sun except
when that luminary is at the zenith.

The silence in which we were absorbed was suddenly
broken by the appearance of a cayman, which raised its hideous
head, and opened its enormous jaws, as if about to swallow the
canoes, as it darted after us.

The moment was come ; the grand drama announced by
the Indians was about to be realised, or all our fears would be
dissipated without any delay. There was not one instant to
be spared, and we had no choice but to try and escape as fast
as we could, for the enemy was gaining on us, and it would be
madness to await his attack. I was steering, and I exerted
myself to the utmost to get away from the danger and to
escape to the shore. But the amphibious beast was approach
ing so fast that he could almost seize us, when Lindsay, run
ning all risks, fired his gun direct at the brute.

The effect produced by the detonation was prodigious,
for, as it were by enchantment, it dispelled all our appre
hensions. The awful silence was broken in the most striking
manner; the cayman was frightened, and sank abruptly to
the bottom of the lake ; hundreds of echoes resounded from
all sides, like the discharges of a rifle corps, and these were
repeated to the tops of the mountains, while clouds of cor
morants, starting from all the trees around, uttered their
screaming and piercing cries, in which they were joined by
the Indians, who shouted with joy on seeing from the bank

192 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

the flight of the hostile beast, of which they are always so
much afraid.

All then became tranquil, and we proceeded at our leisure.
From time to time a cayman made his appearance ; but the
explosions caused by our firing soon drove the monsters
down into the deepest parts of the lake, more frightened than
hurt, for even when we struck them our balls rebounded from
their scales without piercing them.

We went close to the large trees, the branches of which
were spreading over the water ; they were thickly covered with
nests, filled with eggs, and so great a quantity of young birds,
that we not only captured as many as we wished, but could have
filled several boats with them.

The cormorants, alarmed by the explosions we made,
whirled over us continually, like an immense cloud, during the
time we troubled their gloomy abode, and seemed to " dis
turb their solitary reign ;" but they did not wish to go far from
their nests, in which their young broods were crying out for
parental care.

After we had rowed round the lake, we came to the spot
from which we started, having ended our expedition happily
without any accident, and even without having incurred all
the dangers that our Indians, who were awaiting our return in
order to take our boats once more across the mountain, had
wished to make us believe.

Resolved not to finish the excursion without producing
some beneficial results for the sake of scientific knowledge, we
measured the circumference of the lake, which we found to be
about two miles and a half. We were able to take soundings
in the deepest parts towards tho middle, where we found the
depth about three hundred feet ; while at some few fathoms

LOS BANGS — MONKEY SHOOTING. 193

from the banks we found it was invariably one hundred and
eighty feet. And here the remark may be made, that in no
part of the great Lake of Bay has the depth been found to
exceed seventy-five feet ; from which it may be concluded, as
we have previously stated, that the lake of Socolme is formed
within the crater of an extinct volcano, its waters having per
colated or filtered through from the outer lake of Bay.

From Socolme I took my guests to Los Banos, at the
foot of a mountain, several thousand feet high, from which
several springs of boiling water flow into the lake, and, mix
ing with its waters, produce every temperature to be desired
in a natural bath. There also, on the hill, we were sure to
meet with good and plentiful sport. Wild pigeons and beau
tiful doves, perched upon majestic trees, "mistrustful of their
doom," allowed our sportsmen to approach very near, and they
never returned from " the baths " without having " bagged "
plenty of them.

Upon our appointed days of relaxation from labour, we
would go into the neighbouring woods, and wage war on the
monkeys, our harvest's greatest enemies. As soon as a little
dog, purposely brought up to this mode of warfare, warned us
by his barkings that marauders were in sight, we repaired to
the spot, and then the firing was opened. Fright seized hold
on the mischievous tribe, every member of which hid itself in
its tree, and became as invisible as it possibly could. But the
little dog would not leave his post, while we would turn round
the tree, and never failed discovering the hidden inmate.
We then commence the attack, not ceasing until pug was laid
prostrate. After having made several victims, I sent them to be
hung up on forks around the sugar-cane fields, as scarecrows
to those that had escaped ; I, however, always sent the largest

I

194 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

one to Father Miguel, our excellent curate, who was very fond
of a monkey ragout.

Sometimes I would take my guests to a distance of several
days' march, to show them admirable views, cascades, grottoes,
or those wonders of vegetation produced by the fertile nature
of the Philippines.

One day, Mr. Lindsay, the most intrepid traveller I had
ever known, and who had recently accompanied me to the
lake of Socolme, proposed to me to go with him to the grotto
of San-Mateo, a place that several travellers and myself had
visited more than once, but always in so incomplete a manner,
that we had only been able to explore a small portion of it. I
was too well pleased with the proposal not to accept it with
eagerness ; but this time I resolved that I would not return
from this expedition, as I had from former ones, without having
made every possible effort to explore its dimensions and re
cesses. Lindsay, Dr. Genu, and my brother, participated
in my resolution of verifying whether or not there was any
semblance of truth in what the Indians related concerning
that grotto ; or if, as I had so often experienced it myself,
their pot tic minds did not create what had never existed.
Their old Indian traditions attributed to that cavern an im
mense extent. There, they would say, are to be seen fairy
palaces, with which nothing could be compared, and which
were the residences of fantastical beings. Determined, then,
on seeing with our own eyes all these wonders, we set out for
San-Mateo, taking with us an Indian, having with him a crow
bar and a couple of pickaxes, to dig us out a way, should we
have the chance of prolonging our subterraneous walk beyond
the limits which we all already knew. We also took with us
a good provision of flambeaus, so necessary to put our project

EXPEDITION TO SAN-MATEO.

190

into execution. We arrived early at San-Mateo, and spent the
remaining part of the day in visiting admirable views and
situations in the neighbourhood. We also went down into
the bed of a torrent that takes its source in the mountains,
and passes through the north side of this district ; there we
saw several Indians, male and female, all busy in washing the
sand in search of gold-dust. Their daily produce at this work
varies from one to ten francs ; this depends on the more or
less fortunate vein that perchance they fall on. This trade,
together with the tilling of land — to be equalled by no other in
fertility— and hewing timber for building, which is to be found
most plentifully on the neighbouring mountains, is all the
wealth of the inhabitants, who, in most part, live in abundance
and prosperity.

196 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

At th& next day's dawn we were on our way to the grotto,
which is about two hours' walk from the village. The road,
which is bordered by nature's most beautiful productions in
vegetation, traverses the finest rice plantations, and is of most
easy access ; however, about half-way, it suddenly becomes
dangerous and even difficult. Here we leave the cultivated
fields, and follow along the banks of the river, which flows in
the midst of not very high mountains, and has so many bends,
twistings, and meanderings, that, in order to cross it, it is ne
cessary at almost every moment to have recourse to swimming,
and then to take the narrow paths leading from its margin.
Nothing, until at a very short distance from the grotto, inter
rupts the monotony of these rural sites and situations. The
traveller plods his way through a gorge, or ravine, where upon
all sides the view is bounded by rocks, and a long line of ver
dant vegetation, composed of the shrubs that cover the hills.
But through a vast winding, or rather turning, made by the river,
the eye is suddenly dazzled by the splendid panorama that seems
to develop itself and move on with fairy magnificence. Let
the reader imagine that he is standing at the base of two im
mense mountains, resembling two pyramids in their form, both
equally alike and similar in height. The space that intervenes
between them allows the eye to plunge into the distance, and
to discover there a tableau, a picture, or view, which is im
possible to be described. Between the two monster mountains
the river has found an issue, and there the traveller beholds
it at his feet, precipitating itself like an impetuous torrent in
the midst of white marble rocks. The water, both limpid
and glossy, seems to play with every object that impedes its
course ; at one moment it will form a noisy cascade, and then
suddenly disappear at the foot of an enormous rock, and soon

DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOTTO. 197

after appear again, bubbling and foaming, just as if some
supernatural strength had worked it from the bowels of the
earth. Farther on, and in forming itself into a continuous
number of minor cascades, this same river flows, with a vast
silvery surface, over a bed of marble, as white and as brilliant
as alabaster, and falls upon others of still equal whiteness.
Finally, after having passed over all difficulties, all dangers, it
flows with much more modesty over a humble bed, where
may be seen the reflection of the admirable vegetation its
banks are embellished with.

The famous grotto is situated in the mountain on the right
side of the river, which the traveller crosses over by jumping
from one block of marble to another ; and then, after having
ascended a steep height of about two hundred yards, he finds
himself at the entrance to the grotto, whither I shall conduct
the reader step by step.

The entrance, the form of which is almost regular, repre
sents pretty well the portico of a church, with a full arch,
adorned with verdant festoons, composed of creeping plants
and bind-weeds. When the visitor has once passed under the
portico he enters into a large and spacious hall, studded with
stalactites of a very yellowish colour, and there a dense crowd
of bats, frightened by the light of the torches, fly out with
great noise and precipitation. For about a hundred paces, in
advancing towards the interior, the vault continues to be very
lofty, and the gallery is spacious ; but suddenly the former de
clines immensely, and the latter becomes so narrow that it
scarce admits of a passage for one man, who is obliged to crawl
on his hands and knees to pass through, and continue in this
painful position for about a hundred yards. And now the
gallery becomes wide again, and the vault rises several feet

J98 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

high. But here, again, a new difficulty soon presents itself,
and which must be overcome ; a sort of wall, three or four yards
high, must be climbed over, and immediately behind which
lies a most dangerous subterraneous place, where two enormous
precipices, with open mouths on a level with the ground, seem
ready to swallow up the imprudent traveller, who, although he
have his torch lighted, would not walk, step by step, and with
the greatest precaution, through this gloomy labyrinth. A
few stones thrown into these gulfs attest, by the hollow noise
produced by their falling to the bottom, that they are several
hundred feet deep. Then the gallery, which is still wide
and spacious, runs on without presenting anything remarkable
till the visitor arrives on the spot where the last researches
stopped at. Here it seems to terminate by a sort of rotunda,
surrounded by stalactites of divers forms, and which, in one
part, represents a real dome supported by columns. This
dome looks over a small lake, out of which a murmuring
stream flows continually into the precipices already described.
It was here that we began our serious investigations, desirous
of ascertaining if it were possible to prolong this subterraneous
peregrination. We dived several times into the lake without
discovering anything favourable to our desires ; we then directed
our steps to the right, examining all the while, by the light of
our torches, the smallest gaps to be seen in the sides of the
gallery, when at last, after many unsuccessful attempts, we
discovered a hole through which a man's arm could scarcely
pass. By introducing a torch into it, how great was our sur
prise to see within it an immense space, studded with rock-
crystal. I need not add that such a discovery inspired us with
the greatest desire of more closely examining that which we had
but an imperfect view of. We therefore set our Indian to work

DISCOVERIES — MIEACULOUS ESCAPE. 199

with his pick-axe, to widen the hole and make a passage for us ;
his labour went on slowly, he struck his hlows gently and cau
tiously, so as to avoid a falling-in of the rock, which would
not only have marred our hopes, but would, besides, have
caused a great disaster. The vault of rocks suspended over
our heads might bury us all alive, and, as will be seen by the
sequel, the precautions we had taken were not fruitless. At
the very moment when our hopes were about to be realised,
— the aperture being now wide enough to admit of us passing
through it — suddenly, and above our heads, we heard a hollow
prolonged rustling noise that froze us to death ; the vault had
been shaken, and we dreaded its falling upon us. For a
moment, which seemed to us, however, very long, we were all
terrified ; the Indian himself was standing as motionless as a
statue, with his hands upon the handle of his pick-axe, just in
the same position as he was when he gave his last blow.
After a moment's solemn silence, when our fright had a little
subsided, we began to examine the nature of the danger we had
just escaped. Above our heads a long and wide split ran along
the vault to a distance of several yards, and, at the place where
it stopped, an enormous rock, detached from the dome, had been
most providentially impeded in its fall downwards by one of the
columns, which, acting as a sort of buttress, kept it suspended
over the opening we had just made. Having, after mature
examination, ascertained that the column and the rock were
pretty solid, like rash men, accustomed to daunt all danger
and surmount any sort of obstacle and difficulty, we resolved
upon gliding one by one into the dangerous yawning. Dr.
Genu, who till then had kept a profound silence, on hearing
of our resolution was suddenly seized with such a panic fear
that he recovered his voice, imploring and begging of us to

200 TWENTY YEAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

take him out of the cavern ; and, as if he had been suddenly
seized with a sort of vertigo, he told us, with interrupted accents,
that he could not breathe — that he felt himself as if he were
smothering — that his heart was beating so violently, were he
to stay any longer amidst the dangers we were running he was
certain of dying from the effects of a rupture of the heart.
He offered all he possessed on earth to him who would save his
life, and with clasped hands he supplicated our Indians not
to forsake him, but to guide him out of the place. We there
fore took compassion upon his state of mind, and allowed the
Indian to guide him out ; but as soon as the latter returned,
and having ascertained during his absence that neither the
rocky fragment nor the column had stirred, but which had been
the momentary cause of our alarm, we put our project into
execution, and like serpents, one after the other, \ve crawled
into the dangerous opening, which was scarcely large enough
for our passing through. We soon ceased thinking of our past
dangers, nor did our present imprudence much pre-occupy our
minds, all our attention being entirely absorbed by what pre
sented itself to our ravished eyes. Here we were in the midst
of a saloon wearing a most fairy aspect, and, by the light of our
torches, the vault, the floor, and the wall were shining and
dazzling, as if they had been covered over with the most
admirably transparent rock-crystal. Even in some places did
the hand of man seem to have presided over the ornamenting
of this enchanted palace. Numberless stalactites and stalag
mites, as pellucid as the limpid stream that has just been seized
by the frost, assumed here and there the most fantastic forms
and shapes — they represented brilliant draperies, rows of
columns, lustres, and chandeliers. At one end, close to the
wall, was to be seen an altar, with steps leading up to it, and

MAGNIFICENCE OF THE INTERIOR OF THE GROTTO. 201

which seemed to be in expectation of the priest to celebrate
divine service. It would be impossible for my pen to describe
everything that transported us with joy, and drew forth our
admiration ; we really imagined ourselves to be in one of the
Arabian Nights' palaces, and the Indians themselves were far
from guessing the one-half of the wonders we had just dis
covered.

Having left this dazzling palace, we continued our under
ground ramble, penetrating more and more into the bowels of
the earth, following step by step a winding labyrinth, but which
for a whole half-league offered nothing remarkable to our view,
except now and then the sight of the very great dangers our
imdauntable curiosity urged us on to. In certain parts the
vault no longer presented the aspect of being as solid as stone,
earth alone seemed to be its component parts ; and here and
there, recent proofs of falling-in showed us that still more
considerable ones might take place, and cut off from us all
means of retreat. Nevertheless we pushed on still, far beyond
our present adventurous discovery, and at last arrived at a new,
magnificent, and extensive space, all bespangled, like the first,
with brilliant stalactites, and in no way inferior to the former in
the gorgeous beauty of its details. Here again we gave our
selves up to the most minute examination of the many wonders
surrounding us, and which shone like prisms by the light of
our torches. We gathered from off the ground several small
stalagmites, as large and as round as hazel-nuts, and so like
that fruit, when preserved, that some days later, at a ball at
Manilla, we presented some of them to the ladies, whose first
movement was to put them to their mouth ; but soon finding
out their mistake, they entreated to be allowed to keep them,
to have them, as they said, converted into ear-ring drops

202 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

Having fully enjoyed the beautiful and brilliant spectacle pre
sented to our eyes, we now began to feel the effects of hunger
and fatigue. We had been walking in this subterraneous
domain to the extent of more than three miles, had taken no
rest or refreshment since morning, and the day was already far
advanced.

1 have often experienced that our moral strength decreases
in proportion as our physical strength does ; and of course we
must have been in that state when sinister suppositions took
possession of our imaginations. One of- our party communicated
to us a reflection he had just made — which was, that a falling-
in might have taken place between us and the issue from the
grotto ; or, what appeared still more probable, that the enormous
rock, that was suspended and buttressed up by the column,
might have fallen down, and thus bar up all passage through
the hole we had so rashly made. Had such a misfortune
happened to us, what a horrible situation we should have been
in ! We could hope for no help from without, even from our
friend Genu, who, as we had witnessed, had been so upset by
fear; so that, rather than suffer the anguish and die the death
of the wretch buried alive in a sepulchre, our poignards must
have been our last resource.

All these reflections, which we analysed and commented
upon, one by one, made us resolve upon returning, and leaving
to others, more imprudent than ourselves, if any there be, the
care of exploring the space we had still to travel over. We
soon got over the ground that separated us from the place wo
had most to dread. Providence had favoured and protected
us — the large fragment of rock, that object of all our fears, was
still propped up. One after the other did we squeeze ourselves
through the narrow opening, avoiding as much as possible the

IMPRUDENCE OF OUR INDIAN — RETURN. 20S

least friction, till at last we had all passed through. Joyous
indeed were we on seeing ourselves out of danger after so
perilous an enterprise, and we were already beginning to direct
our steps towards the outlet of the cavern, when suddenly a
hollow, prolonged noise, and below our feet a rapid trembling
excited once more all our fears. But those fears were soon
calmed by our Indian, who came running towards us at full
speed, brandishing in his hand his pick-axe. The impru
dent fellow, unwilling to sacrifice it, had waited till we were
some paces distant, and then pulling it to him most forcibly,
while all the while he took good care to keep quickly moving
away, when thanks to Providence, or to his own nimbleness,
he was not crushed to atoms by the fragment of the rock,
which, being no longer buttressed up by the column that had
been shaken, had fallen to the ground, completely stopping up
the issue through which we had passed one after the other :
so that no doubt no one, after us, will be able to penetrate
into the beautiful part of that grotto which we had just
passed through so fortunately. After this last episode we
no longer hesitated in returning, and it was with great delight
that we beheld once more the great luminary of the world, and
found our friend Genu sitting upon a block of marble, reflect
ing on our long absence, and, at the same time, on our un
qualifiable temerity.

Dumont d'Urville.

CHAPTER X.

Dumont d'Urville — Rear-Admiral Laplace : Desertion of Sailors from his Ship—
I recover them for him — Origin of the Inhabitants of the Philippine Islands
— Their General Disposition — Hospitality and Respect for Old Age — Tagal
Marriage Ceremony — Indian Legal Eloquence — Explanation of the Matri
monial Speeches — The Caymans, or Alligators — Instances of their Ferocity —
Imprudence and Death of my Shepherd — Method of entrapping the Monster
which had devoured him — We Attack and eventually Capture it— Its Dimen
sions — We Dissect and Examine the Contents of its Stomach — Boa-Con
strictors — Their large size — Attack of a Boa-Constrictor on a Wild Boar —
We Kill and Skin it — Unsuccessful Attempt to capture a Boa-Constrictor
alive — A Man Devoured — Dangerous Venomous Reptiles.

T SHALL perhaps be accused of exaggeration for what I say
of the enjoyments and emotions of my existence at Jala- Jala :
nevertheless I adhere to the strict truth, and it would be very
easy for me to cite the names of many persons in support of
the truth of all my narrative. Moreover, the various tra
vellers who have spent some time at my habitation have
published, in their works, the tableau or recital of my existence

DESERTION OF SEAMEN AT MANILLA. Ii0

in the midst of my dear Indians, who were all so devoted to mo
Among other works, I shall cite "The Voyage Round the
World," by the unfortunate Dumont d'Urville ; and that of
Rear-Admiral LapL^ce, in each of which works will be found
a special article dedicated to Jala- Jala.*

Since I have named M. Laplace, I shall here relate a little
anecdote of which he was the hero, and which will show to
what a degree my influence was generally considered and
looked up to in the province of Lagune.

Several sailors, belonging to the crew of the frigate com
manded by M. Laplace, had deserted at Manilla, and, notwith
standing all the searches that the Spanish government had
caused to be made, it was found impossible to discover the
hiding-place of five of them. M. Laplace coming to pay a few
weeks' visit to my little domain, the governor said to him : " .If
you wish to find out your men you have only to apply to
M. Gironiere — no one will discover them if he do not;
convey to him my orders io set out immediately in pursuit of
them."

On arriving at my habitation M. Laplace communicated to
me this order, but I was too independent to think of executing
it : my business and occupation had nothing to do with deserters.
A few days afterwards a captain, accompanied by about a hundred
soldiers, under his orders, arrived at Jala-Jala, to inform M
Laplace that he had scoured the province without being able
to obtain the least news of the deserters, whom he had been
looking after for the last fortnight ; at which news M. Laplace
was very much grieved, and coming to me, said: " M. de la
Gironiere, I perceive I shall be obliged to' sail without the
hands that have deserted, if you yourself will not look after

* Sec Appendix III. and IV.

206 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

them. I therefore beg and beseech of you to sacrifice a little
of your time, and render me that important service."

This entreaty was no order: it was a prayer, a supplication,
that was addressed to me, consequently I took but little time
to reply as follows : :' Commander, in one hour hence I shall
be on iny way, and before forty-eight hours are expired you
shall have your men here."

" Oh ! take care," replied he ; " mind, you have to do with
more than rough fellows : do not therefore expose your life,
and should they perchance make any resistance, give them no
quarter, but fire on them."

A few minutes afterwards, accompanied by my faithful
lieutenant and one soldier, I crossed over the lake, and went
in the direction where I thought that the French sailors had
taken refuge. I was soon on their track ; and on the second
day afterwards I fulfilled the promise I had made Com
mander Laplace, and delivered up to him his five deserters
against whom I had been obliged to employ neither violence
nor fire-arms.

I have already had the occasion of speaking about the
Tagalocs, and describing their disposition. However, I have not
yet entered into the necessary details to make well known a popu
lation so submissive to the Spaniards, and whose primitive origiu
never can be anything but hypothesis — yea, a true problem.

It is probable, and almost incontestible, that the Philippine
Islands were primitively peopled by aborigines, a small race of
negroes still inhabiting the interior of the forests in pretty large
numbers, called Ajetas by the Tagalocs, and Negritos by the
Spaniards. Doubtless at a very distant period the Malays in
vaded the shores, and drove the indigenous population into the
interior beyond the mountains ; afterwards, whether by accidents

ABORIGINES OF THE PHILIPPINES. 20?

on sea, or desirous of availing themselves of the richness of tho
soil, they were joined by the Chinese, the Japanese, the in
habitants of the archipelago of the South Seas, the Javanese,
and even the Indians. It must not, then, be wondered at, that
from the mixture proceeding from the union of these various
people, all of unequal physiognomy, there have risen the differ
ent nuances, distinctions and types ; upon which, however, is
generally depicted Malay physiognomy and cruelty.

The Tagal is well made, rather tall than otherwise. His hair
is long, his beard thin, his colour brass-like, yet sometimes in
clining to European whiteness ; his eye expanded and vivacious,
somewhat a la Chinoise; nose large; and, true to the Malay race,
his cheek bones are high and prominent. He is passionately
fond of dancing and music ; is, when in loyg^very loving ; cruel
towards his enemies; never forgives an act of injustice, and
ever avenges it with his poignard, which — like the kris with
the Malays — is his favourite weapon. Whenever he has
pledged his word in serious business, it is j>acred ; he gives
himself passionately to games of hazard; he is a good husband,
a good father ; jealous of his wife's honour, but careless of his
daughter's ; who, despite any little faux-pas, meets with no
difficulty in getting a husband.

The Tagal is of very sober habits : all he requires is water,
a little rjce^an^ salt-fish. ^ In his estimation an aged man is
an object of great veneration ; and where there exists a family
of them in all periods of life, the youngest is naturally most
subservient to the eldest.

The Tagal, like the Arab, is hospitably inclined, without
any sentiment of egotism, and certainly without any other idea
than that of relieving suffering humanity : so that when a
stranger appears before an Indian hut at meal-time, were the

208 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

ifc

A Tagal Indian Dwelling.

poor Indian only to have what was strictly necessary for his
family, it is his greatest pleasure to invite and press the stranger
to take a place at his humble board, and partake of his family
cheer. When an old man, whose days are dwindling to the
shortest span, can work no longer, he is sure to find a refuge,
an asylum, a home, at a neighbour's, where he is looked upon
as one of the family. There he may remain till he is called
to " that bourne from whence no traveller returns."

Amongst the Tagals the marriage ceremony is somewhat
peculiar. It is preceded by twro other ceremonies, the first
of which is called Tain manoc, Tagal words, signifying
or meaning " the cock looking after his hen." Therefore,
when once a young man has informed Ins father and mother
that he has a predeliction for a young Indian girl, his

TAGAL MARRIAGE CEKEMONY.

209

Tfoung Tagal Indian and his Betrothed-

parents pay a visit to the young girl's parents upon some fine
evening, and after some very ordinary chat the mamma of the
young man offers a piaster to the mamma of the young lady.
Should the future mother-in-law accept, the young lover is
admitted, and then his future mother-in-law is sure to go and
spend the very same piaster in betel and cocoa-wine. During
the greater portion of the night the whole company assem
bled upon the occasion chews betel, drinks cocoa-wine, and
discusses upon all other subjects but marriage. The young
men never make their appearance till the piaster has been ac
cepted, because in that case they look upon it as being the
first and most essential step towards their marriage.

210 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

• On the next day the young man pays a visit to the mother,
father, and other relatives of his affianced bride. There
he is received as one of the family ; he sleeps there, he
lodges there, takes a part in all the labours, and most particu
larly in those labours depending upon the young maid's super
intendence. He now undertakes a service or task that lasts,
more or less, two, three, or four years, during which time he
must look well to himself ; for if anything be found out against
him he is discarded, and never more can pretend to the hand
of her he would espouse.

The Spaniards did their best to suppress this custom, on
account of the inconveniencies it entailed. Very often the
father of a young girl, in order to keep in his service a man
who cost him nothing, keeps on this state of servitude indefi
nitely, and sometimes dismisses him who has served him for
two or three years, and takes another under the same title of
pretendant, or lover. But it also frequently happens that if the
two lovers grow impatient for the celebration of the marriage
ceremony — for " hope deferred maketh the heart sick," — some
day or other the girl takes the young man by the hair, and
presenting him to the curate of the village, tells him she
has just run away with her lover, therefore they must be
married. The wedding ceremony then takes place without
the consent of the parents. But were the young man to
carry off the young girl, he would be severely punished, and
she restored to her family.

If all things have passed off in good order, if the lover has
undergone two or three years of voluntary slavery, and if his
future relations be quite satisfied with his conduct and temper,
then comes the day of the second ceremony, called Tajin-bojol,
" the young man desirous of tying the union knot."

INDIAN LEGAL ELOQUENCE 211

This second ceremony is a grand festival-day. The rela
tions and friends of both families are all assembled at the
bride's house, and divided into two camps, each of which dis
cusses the interests of the young couple ; but each family has
an advocate, who alone has the right to speak in favour of his
client. The relations have no right to speak ; they only make,
in a low tone of voice, to their advocate, the observations they
think fit.

The Indian woman never brings a marriage portion with
her. When she takes a husband unto herself she possesses
nothing; the young man alone brings the portion, and this
is why the young girl's advocate speaks first, and asks for it, in
order to settle the basis of the treaty.

I will here set before my readers the speeches of two advo
cates in a ceremony of this kind, at which I had the curiosity
to be present. In order not to wound the susceptibility of the
parties, the advocates never speak but in allegorical terms, and
at the ceremony which I honoured with my presence the advocate
of the young Indian girl thus began : —

" A young man and a young girl were joined together in
the holy bands of wedlock ; they possesed nothing — nay, they
had not even a shelter. For several years the young woman
was very badly off. At last her misfortunes came to an end,
and one day she found herself in a fine large cottage that
was her own. She became the mother of a pretty little
babe, a girl, and on the day of her confinement there appeared
unto her an angel, who said to her: — * Bear in mind thy mar
riage, and the time of penury thou didst go through. The
child that has just been born unto thee will I take under my
protection. When she will have grown up and be a fine lass,
give her but to him who will build her up a temple, where

212 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

there will be ten columns, each composed of ten stones. If
thou dost not execute these my orders thy daughter will be as
miserable as thou hast been thyself.'"

After this short speech, the adverse advocate replied: —
" Once upon a time there lived a queen, whose kingdom lay on
the sea-side. Amongst the laws of her realm there was one
which she followed with the greatest rigour. Every ship
arriving in her states' harbour could, according to that law,
cast anchor but at one hundred fathoms deep, and he who
violated the said law was put to death without pity or remorse.
Now it came to pass one day that a brave captain of a ship
was surprised by a dreadful tempest, and after many fruitless
endeavours to save his vessel, he was obliged to put into the
queen's harbour, and cast anchor there, although his cable was
only eighty fathoms long, for he preferred death on the scaffold
to the loss of his ship and crew. The enraged queen com
manded him to her audit chamber. He obeyed, and throwing
himself at her feet, told her that necessity alone had compelled
him to infringe upon the laws, and that, having but eighty
fathoms long, he could not possibly cast out a hundred, so
he besought her most graciously to pardon him."

And here ended his speech, but the other advocate took it
up, and thus went on : —

" The queen, moved to pity by the prayer of the suppliant
captain, and his inability to cast his anchor one hundred
fathoms deep, instantly pardoned him, and well did she devise."

On hearing these last words joy shone upon every counte
nance, and the musicians began playing on the guitar. The
bride and bridegroom, who had been waiting in an adjoining
chamber, now made their appearance. The young man took
from off his neck his rosary, or string of beads, put it round

EXPLANATION OF THE SPEECHES. 213

the young girl's neck, and took back hers in lieu of the one
he had given her. The night was spent in dancing and merri
ment, and the marriage ceremony— just as Christian-like as our
own — was arranged to take place in a week.

I shall now, just as I heard it myself, give the explanation
of the advocates' speeches, which I did not entirely understand.
The bride's mother had married without a wedding portion
on her husband's side, so she had gone through very adverse
and pinching circumstances. The temple that the angel had
told her to demand for her daughter was, a house ; and the
ten columns, composed of ten stones each, signified that with
the house a sum of one hundred piasters would be requisite —
that is, twenty pounds sterling.

The speech of the young man's advocate explained that ho
would give the house, as he said nothing about it ; but, being
worth only eighty piasters, he threw himself at the feet of the
parents of. his betrothed, that the twenty piasters which he
was minus, might offer no obstacle to his marriage. The
pardon accorded by the queen signified the grace shown to the
young man, who was accepted with his eighty piasters only.

The servitude which precedes matrimony, and of which I
have spoken, was practised long before the conquest of these
isles by the Spaniards. This would seem to prove the origin
I attribute to the Tagalocs, whom I believe to be descended
from the Malays, and these latter, being all Mussulmans,
would naturally have preserved some of the ancient patriarchal
customs.

Believing that I have sufficiently described the Indians
and their habits, I will now introduce to my readers tvvc
species of monsters that I have often had occasion to observe,
and even to combat — the one a denizen of forests, the "boa con

214 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES

stricter ; the other of lakes and rivers, the cayman or alligator.
At the period at which I first occupied my habitation, and
began to colonise the village of Jala-Jala, caymans abounded
on that side of the lake. From my windows I daily saw them
sporting in the water, and waylaying and snapping at the dogs
that ventured too near the brink. One day, a female servant
of my wife's, having been so imprudent as to bathe at the edge
of the lake, was surprised by one of them, a monster of enor
mous size. One of my guards came up at the moment she
was being carried off ; he fired his musket at the brute, and hit
it under the fore-leg, or arm-pit, which is the only vulnerable
part. But the wound was insufficient to check the cayman's
progress, and it disappeared with its prey. Nevertheless, this
little bullet hole was the cause of its death ; and here it is to
be observed, that the slightest wound received by the cayman is
incurable. The shrimps which abound in the lake get into
the orifice, gradually their number increases, until at last they
penetrate deep into the solid flesh, and into the very interior of
the body. This is what happened to the one which devoured
my wife's maid. A month after the frightful occurrence the
cayman was found dead upon the bank, five or six leagues
from my house. Some Indians brought back to me the unfor
tunate woman's earrings, which they had found in the monster's
stomach.

Upon another occasion, a Chinese was riding onwards in
advance of me. We reached a river, and I let him go on
alone, in order to ascertain whether the river was very deep
or not. Suddenly, three or four caymans which lay in wait
ing under the water, threw themselves upon him ; horse and
rider disappeared, and for some minutes afterwards tne water
was tinged with blood.

FEROCITY OF THE CAYMANS. 215

I was curious to obtain a near view of one of these voracious
animals, and, at the time when they frequented the vicinity of
my house, I made several attempts to accomplish my wishes.
One night I baited a huge hook, secured by a chain and strong
cord, with an entire sheep. Next morning, sheep and chain
had disappeared. I lay in wait for the creatures with my gun,
but the bullets rebounded, half flattened upon their scales,
without doing the slightest injury. One evening that a large
dog of mine had died, belonging to a race peculiar to the
Philippines, and exceeding in size any of the canine species of
Europe, I had his carcass dragged to the shore of the lake,
and hid myself in a little thicket, with my gun ready cocked,
in the event of any cayman presenting itself to carry off the
bait. Presently I fell asleep ; when I awoke, the dog had dis
appeared, the cayman, luckily for me, not mistaking his prey.

In the course of a few years' time, these monsters had dis
appeared from the environs of Jala-Jala; but one morning,
when out with my shepherds, at some leagues' distance from
my house, we came to a river, which could only be crossed by
swimming. One of my people said to me :

" Master, the water is deep here, and we are in the courses
where the caymans abound ; an accident soon happens, let us
try further up the river, and pass over in a shallower spot."

We were about to follow this advice, when another man, more
rash than his comrades, said : " I'm not afraid of caymans ! "
and spurred his horse into the stream. He had scarcely got
half-way across, when we perceived a monstrous cayman rise
and advance to meet him. We uttered a warning shout, the
Indian himself perceived the danger, threw himself from his
horse, and swam, for the bank with all his strength. He had
aiready reached it, but imprudently stopped behind the truni

216 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

of a tree that had been felled by the force of the current,
and where he had the water up to his knees. Believing him
self secure, he drew his cutlass, and watched the movements of
the cayman, which, meanwhile, had reached the horse just as,
the Indian quitted the animal. Rearing his enormous head
out of the water, the monster threw himself upon the steed
and seized him by the saddle. The horse made a violent
effort, the girths broke, and thus enabled him to reach the
shore. Soon, however, finding that his prey had escaped, the
cayman dropped the saddle, and made towards the Indian.
We perceived this movement, and quickly cried out: "Run,
run, or the cayman will have you !;' The Indian, however,
would not stir, but calmly waited, cutlass in hand. The
monster advanced towards him ; the Indian struck him a blow
on the head, which took no more effect than a flip of the
fingers would have on the horns of a bull. The cayman made
a spring, seized him by one of his thighs, and for more than a
minute we beheld my poor shepherd — his body erect above the
surface of the water, his hands joined, his eyes tumed to
heaven, in the attitude of a man imploring Divine mercy —
dragged back again into the lake. The drama was over : the
cayman's stomach was his tomb. During these agonizing
moments, we all remained silent, but no sooner had my poor
shepherd disappeared than we all swore to avenge him.

I caused to be made three nets of strong cords, each of
of which nets was large enough to form a complete barrier
across the river. I also had a hut built, and put an Indian to
live in it, whose duty was to keep constant watch, and to let
me know as soon as the cayman returned to the river. He
watched in vain, for upwards of two months, but at the end of
that time he came and told me that the monster had seized

ENTRAPPING THE CAYMAN }il7

a horse, and had dragged it into the river to devour at leisure.
I immediately repaired to the spot, accompanied by my guards,
and by my priest, who positively would see a cayman hunt,
and by an American friend of mine, Mr. Russell,* who was
then staying with me. I had the nets spread at intervals, so
that the cayman could not escape back into the lake. This
operation was not effected without some acts of imprudence ;
thus, for instance, when the nets were arranged, an Indian
dived to make sure that they were at the bottom, and that our
enemy could not escape by passing below them. But it might
very well have happened that the cayman was in the interval
between the nets, and so have gobbled up my Indian. Fortu
nately everything passed off as we wished. When all was
ready, I launched three pirogues, strongly fastened together,
side by side, with some Indians in the centre, armed with
lances, and with long bamboos, with which they could touch
the bottom. At last, all measures having been taken to attain
my end, without risk of accident, my indians began to explore
the river with their long bamboos.

An animal so formidable in size as the one we were in
search of, could not hide himself very easily, and soon we be
held him on the surface of the river, lashing the water with
his long tail, snapping and clattering with his jaws, and en
deavouring to get at those who disturbed him in his retreat.
A universal shout of joy greeted his appearance ; the Indians
in the pirogues hurled their lances at him, whilst we, upon
either shore of the lake, fired a volley. The bullets rebounded
from the monster's scales, which they were unable to pene
trate ; the keener lances made their way between the scales,

* Of the house of Russell and Sturges, a good and true friend, the
recollection of whom, often present to my mind, will never be effaced.

218 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

and entered into the cayman's body some eight or ten inches.
Thereupon he disappeared, swimming with incredible rapidity,
and reached the first net. The resistance it opposed turned
him back ; he re-ascended the river, and again appeared on the
top of the water. This violent movement, broke the staves of
the lances which the Indians had stuck into him, and the iron
alone remained in the wounds. Each time that he appeared
the firing recommenced, and fresh lances were plunged into his
enormous body. Perceiving, however, how ineffectual fire
arms were to pierce his cuirass of invulnerable scales, I excited
him by my shouts and gestures, and when he came to the
edge of the water, opening his enormous jaws all ready to
devour me, I approached the muzzle of my gun to within a
few inches, and fired both barrels, in the hope that the bullets
would find something softer than scales in the interior of that
formidable cavern, and that they would penetrate to his brain.
All was futile. The jaws closed with a terrible noise, seizing
only the fire and smoke that issued from my gun, and the
balls flattened against his bones without injuring them. The
animal, which had now become furious, made inconceivable
efforts to seize one of his enemies; his strength seemed to
increase, rather than to diminish, whilst our resources were
nearly exhausted. Almost all our lances were sticking in his
body, and our ammunition drew to an end. The fight had
lasted more than six hours, without any result that could make
us hope for its speedy termination, when an Indian struck the
cayman, whilst at the bottom of the water, with a lance of un
usual strength and size. Another Indian, at his comrade's
request, struck two vigorous blows with a mace upon the but-
end of the lance ; the iron entered deep into the animal's
body, and immediately, with a movement as swift as lightning,

CAPTURE AND DEATH OF THE MONSTER. 219

oe darted towards the nets and disappeared. The lance pole,
detached from the iron head, returned to the surface of the
water; for some minutes we waited in vuin for the monster's
re-appearance ; we thought that his last effort had enabled him
to reach the lake, and that our chase would result fruitlessly.

Attacking the Cayman.

We hauled in the first net, a large hole in which convinced
us that our supposition was correct. The second net was in
the same condition as the first. Disheartened hy our failure,
we were hauling in the third, when we felt a strong resistance.
Several of the Indians began to drag it towards the bank,

TWENTY YEAttS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

and presently, to our great joy, we saw the cayman upon the
surface of the water. He was expiring. We threw over him
several lassos of strong cords, and when he was well secured.
we drew him to land. It was no easy matter to haul him
up on the bank; the strength of forty Indians hardly sufficed.
When at last we had got him completely out of the water, and
had him before our eyes, we stood stupified with astonish
ment, for it was a very different thing to see his body thus
and to see him swimming, when he was fighting against us
Mr. Russell, a very competent person, was charged with his
measurements. From the extremity of his nostrils to the tip
of his tail, he was found to be twenty -seven feet long, and his
circumference was eleven feet, measured under the arm -pits.
His belly was much more voluminous, but we thought it
unnecessary to measure him there, judging that the horse upon
which he had breakfasted must considerably have increased
his bulk.

This process at an end, we took counsel as to what we should
do with the dead cayman. Every one gave his opinion. My
wish was to convey it bodily to my residence, but that was
impossible ; it would have required a vessel of five or six tons
burthen, and we could not procure such a craft. One man
wanted the skin, the Indians begged for the flesh, to dry it.
and use it as a specific against asthma. They affirm, that any
asthmatic person who nourishes himself for a certain time
with this flesh, is infallibly cured. Somebody else desired to
have the fat, as an antidote to rheumatic pains ; and, finally,
my worthy priest demanded that the stomach should be opened,
in order to ascertain how many Christians the monster had
devoured. Every time, he said, that a cayman eats a Chris
tian he swallows a large pebble ; thus, the number of pebblea

DISSECTION AND CONTENTS OF ITS STOMACH. 2121

we should find in him would positively indicate the number of
the faithful to whom his enormous stomach had afforded sepul
ture. To satisfy everybody, I sent for an axe wherewith, to
cut off the head, which I reserved for myself, abandoning the
rest of the carcass to all who had taken part in the capture. It
was no easy matter to decapitate the monster. The axe buried
itself in the flesh to half-way up the handle without reaching the
bones ; at last, after many efforts, we succeeded in getting the
head off. Then we opened the stomach, and took out of it, by
fragments, the horse which had been devoured by the monster
that morning. The cayman does not masticate, he snaps off
a huge lump with his teeth, and swallows it entire. Thus we
found the whole of the horse, divided only into seven or eight
pieces. Then we came to about a hundred and fifty pounds'
weight of pebbles, varying from the size of a fist to that of
a walnut. When my priest saw this great quantity of stones :

" It is a mere tale," he could not help saying; "it is im
possible that this animal could have devoured so great a num
ber of Chrstians."

It was eight o'clock at night when we had finished the cut
ting up. I left the body to our assistants, and had the head
placed in a boat to convey it to my house. I very much de
sired to preserve this monstrous trophy as nearly as possible iu
the state in which it then was, but that would have required
a great quantity of arsenical soap, and I was out of that
chemical. So I made up my mind to dissect it, and preserve
the skeleton. I weighed it before detaching the ligaments;
its weight was four hundred and fifty pounds ; its length, from
the nose to the first vertebne, five feet six inches.

I found all my bullets, which had become flattened against
the bones of the jaws and palate as they would have done

222 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

against a plate of iron. The lance thrust which had slain the
cayman was a chance — a sort of miracle. When the Indian
struck with his mace upon the but-end of the pole, the iron
pierced through the nape, into the vertebral column, and
penetrated the spinal marrow, the only vulnerable part.

When this formidable head was well prepared, and the
bones dried and whitened, I had the pleasure of presenting
it to my friend Russell, who has since deposited it in the
museum at Boston, United States.

The other monster, of which I have promised a descrip
tion, is the boa-constrictor. The species is common in the
Philippines, but it is rare to meet with a specimen of very
large dimensions. It is possible, nay probable, that centuries
of time are necessary for this reptile to attain its largest
size ; and to such an age, the various accidents to which
animals are exposed, rarely suffer it to attain. Full-sized
boas are consequently to be met with only in the gloomiest,
most remote, and most solitary forests.

I have seen many boas of ordinary size, such as are
found in our European collections. There were some, indeed,
that inhabited my house, and one night I found one, two yards
long, in possession of my bed. Several times, when passing
through the woods with my Indians, I heard the piercing
cries of a wild boar. On approaching the spot whence they pro
ceeded, we almost invariably found a wild boar, about whose
body a boa had twisted its folds, and was gradually hoisting
him up into the tree round which it had coiled itself.

When the wild boar had reached a certain height, the
snake pressed him against a tree with a force that crushed
his bones and stified him. Then the boa let its prey fall,
descended the tree, and prepared to swallow it. This last

iLD BOAK ATTACKED BY A BOA CONSTRICTOR. — Page 222.

BOA-CONSTE1CTOIIS. 223

operation was much too lengthy for us to await its end. To
simplify matters, I sent a ball into the boa's head. My
Indians took the flesh to dry it for food, and the skin to make
dagger sheaths of. It is unnecessary to say that the wild boar was
not forgotten, although it was a prey that had cost us but little
trouble to secure. One day an Indian surprised one of these
reptiles asleep, after it had swallowed an enormous deer.
Its size was so great, that a buffalo waggon would have been
necessary to transport it to the village. The Indian cut it
in pieces, and contented himself with as much as he could carry
off. Having been informed of this, I sent after the remains,
and my people brought me a piece about eight feet long, and
so large in circumference that the skin, when dried, en
veloped the tallest man like a cloak. I presented it to my friend
Hamilton Lindsay.

I had not yet seen any of these largest sized serpents alive,
when, one afternoon, crossing the mountains with two of my
shepherds, our attention was drawn to the constant barking
of my dogs, which seemed to be assailing some animal that
stood upon its defence. We at first thought that it was a
buffalo that they had roused from its lair, and approached the
spot with due caution. My dogs were dispersed along the
brink of a deep ravine, in which was an enormous boa con
strictor. The monster raised his head to a height of five or
six feet, directing it from one edge to the other of the ravine,
and menacing his assailants with his forked tongue ; but the
dogs, more active than he was, easily avoided his attacks. My
first impulse was to shoot him ; but then it occurred to me to
take him alive, and to send him to France. Assuredly he
would have been the most monstrous boa that had ever been
seen there. To carry my design into execution we manufactured

TWKNTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPP1NFS.

' • ;'\^

Attacking the Boa-Constrictor.

nooses of cane, strong enough to resist the efforts of the most
powerful wild buffalo. With great precaution we succeeded
in passing one of our nooses round the boa's neck ; then we
tied him tightly to a tree, in such a manner as to keep his head
at its usual height— ^about six feet from the ground. This
done, we crossed to the other side of the ravine, and threw
another noose over him, which we secured like the first. When
he felt himself thus fixed at both ends, he coiled and writhed,
and grappled several little trees which grew within his reach
along the edge of the ravine. Unluckily for him everything
yielded to his efforts ; he tore up the young trees by the roots,

A BOA-CONSTRICTOR DEVOURS A MAN. 225

broke off the branches, and dislodged enormous stones, round
which he sought in vain to obtain the hold or point of resist
ance he needed. The nooses were strong, and withstood his
almost furious efforts.

To convey an animal like this, several buffaloes and a whole
system of cordage were necessary. Night approached ; con
fident in our nooses, we left the place, proposing to return
next morning and complete the capture ; but we reckoned
without our host. In the night the boa changed his tactics,
got his body round some huge blocks of basalt, and finally
succeeded in breaking his bonds and getting clear off. When I
had assured myself that our prey had escaped us, and that all
search for the reptile in the neighbourhood would be futile, my
disappointment was very great, for I much doubted if a like op
portunity would ever present itself. It is only on rare occasions
that accidents are caused by these enormous reptiles. I once
knew of a man becoming their victim. It happened thus : —

This man having committed some offence, ran away, and
sought refuge in a cavern. His father, who alone knew the
place of his concealment, visited him occasionally to supply him
with food. One day he found, in place of his son, an enor
mous boa sleeping. He killed it, and found his son in its
stomach. The poor wretch had been surprised in the night,
crashed to death, and swallowed. The curate of the village, who
had gone in quest of the body to give it burial, and who saw
the remains of the boa, .described them to me as being of an
almost incredible size. Unfortunately this circumstance hap
pened at a considerable distance from my habitation, and I was
only made acquainted with the particulars when it was too
late to verify them myself: but still there is nothing sur
prising that a boa which can swallow a deer should as easiTy

220 TWENTY TEAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

swallow a man. Several other feats of a similar nature were
related to me by the Indians. They told me of their com
rades, who, roaming about the woods, had been seized by boas,
crushed against trees, and afterwards devoured, but I was
always on my guard against Indian tales, and I am only able
to verify positively the instance, I have just cited, which
was related to me by the curate of the village, as weil as by
many other witnesses. Still there would be nothing surprising
that a similar accident should occur more than once.

The boa is one of the serpents the least to be feared
among those infesting the Philippines. Of an exceedingly
venomous description is one which the Indians call dajon-palaij,
(rice leaf). Burning with a red-hot ember is the only antidote
to its bite ; if that be not promptly resorted to, horrible suf
ferings are followed by certain death. The alin-morani is
another kind, eight or ten feet long, and, if anything, more
dangerous still than the " rice leaf," inasmuch as its bite is
deeper, and more difficult to cauterise. I wras never bitten
by any of these reptiles, despite the slight precaution I observed
in wandering about the woods, by night as well as by day.

Twice only I endangered myself: the first time was by
treading upon a dajon-palay ; I w?as warned by a movement
under my foot. I pressed hard with that leg, and saw the
snake's little head stretching out to bite me on the ankle ;
fortunately my foot was on him at so short a distance from
his head that he could not get at me. I drew my dagger,
and cut off his head. On another occasion, I noticed two
eagles rising and falling like arrows amongst the bushes,
always at the same place. Curious to see what kind of anima.
they were attacking, I approached the place ; but no sooner
had I done so, than an enormous alin-morani, furious with tne

DANGEROUS VENEMOUS REPTILES. 227

wounds the eagles had inflicted on him, advanced to meet me.
I retreated ; he coiled himself up, gave a spring, and almost
caught me on the face. By an instantaneous movement, I made
a spring backwards, and avoided him ; but I took care not to
turn my back and run, for then I should have been lost. The
serpent returned to the charge, bounding towards me; I
again avoided him, and was trying, but in vain, to reach him
with my dagger, when an Indian, who perceived me from a
distance, ran up, armed with a stout switch, and rid me
of him.

'm

Rice Stacking m ths Philippines.

CHAPTEE XI.

The Prosperity and Happiness of my Life at Jala-Jala — Destructiveness of the
Locusts — Agriculture in the Philippines — My Herds of Oxen, Buffaloes, and
Horses — My Wife presents me with a Daughter, who Dies — The Admiration
of the Indian Women for my Wife — Birth of my Son — Continued Prosperity
— Death of my brother Henry — My Friendship with Malvilain— His Mar
riage with my eldest Sister — His Premature Death — I take my Wife to
Manilla— Melancholy Adieus — We Return to Jala-Jala — Death of my Wife
— My friend Vidie — I determine to Return to France.

\TEVER was life more actively spent, or more crowded with
•*•* emotions, than the time I passed at Jala-Jala, but it suited
my tastes and my character, and I enjoyed as perfect happi

DESTRUCTIVENESS OF THE LOCUSTS. 229

ness as one can look for when far away from ore's home and
country. My Anna was to me an angel of goodness ; my
Indians were happy, peace and plenty smiled upon their
families ; my fields were covered with abundant corps, and my
pasturages with numerous herds. It was not, however,
without great difficulty and much toil that I accomplished my
aim ; how often did I find all my courage and all my philo
sophy necessary to face, without despair, reverses which it was
impossible for me to avoid ? How often did I behold hur
ricanes and inundations destroy the fine harvest that I had
protected with so much labour against the buffaloes, the
wild boars, the monkeys, and even against an insect more
destructive still than all the other pests which I have just
mentioned — the locust, one of the plagues of Egypt, apparently
transported into this province, and which almost regularly,
every seven years, leave the isles of the south in clouds, and
fall upon Luzon, bringing desolation, and often famine. It
is indeed necessary to have witnessed this desolation to be able
to form any idea of it. When the locusts arrive, a fire-
coloured cloud is perceived in the horizon, formed of countless
myriads of these destructive insects. They fly rapidly, often
covering, in a closely packed body, a space of two or three
leagues in diameter, and occupy from five to six consecutive
hours in passing over head. If they perceive a fine green
field they pounce down upon it, and in a few minutes all verdure
has disappeared, the ground is stripped completely bare;
they then continue their flight elsewhere, bearing on their
wings destruction and famine. At evening it is in the forests,
upon the trees, that they take shelter. They hang in such
dense masses upon the ends of the boughs that they break
down even the stoutest limbs from the trees. During \~he night,

230 TWENTY Y10ARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

The Locust.

from the spot where they are reposing, there issues a con
tinual croaking, and so loud a noise, that one scarcely believes
it to be produced by so small an insect. The following
morning they leave at day-break, and the trees upon which
they have reposed are left stripped and broken, as though the
lightning had swept the forest in every direction ; they
pursue their course elsewhere to commit fresh ravages. At
certain periods they remain on vast plains or on fertile moun
tains ; where, elongating the extremity of their bodies in the
form of a gimblet, they pierce the earth to the depth of an
inch and upwards to deposit their eggs. The operation of
laying being completed, they leave the ground pierced like a
sieve, and disappear, for their existence has now reached its
termination. Three weeks afterwards, however, the eggs open,
and myriads of young locusts swarm the earth. On the spot
where they are born, whatever will serve them for food is
quickly consumed. As soon as they have acquired sufficient
strength they abandon their birth-place, destroy all kinds of
vegetation that comes in their way, and direct their course to
the cultivated fields, which they desolate until the period when

AGRICULTURE IN THE PHILIPPINES. 231

their wings appear. They then take flight in order to devas
tate more distant plantations.

As may be seen, agriculture in the Philippines presents
many difficulties, but it also yields results that may be looked
for in vain in any other country. During the years which are
exempt from the calamities I have described the earth is covered
with riches ; every kind of colonial produce is raised in extra
ordinary abundance, frequently in the proportion of eighty to
one, and on many plantations two crops of the same species
are harvested in one year. The rich and extensive pasturages
offer great facilities for raising a large number of cattle, which
absolutely cost nothing but the trifling wages paid by the pro
prietor to a few shepherds.

Upon my property I possessed three herds — one of three
thousand head of oxen, another of eight hundred buffaloes,
and the other of six hundred horses. At that period of the
year when the rice was harvested, the shepherds explored the
mountains, and drove these animals to a vast plain at a short
distance from my dwelling. This plain was covered by these
three species of domesticated animals, and presented, espe
cially to the proprietor, an admirable sight. At night they
were herded in large cattle-folds, near the village, and on the
following day a selection was made of the oxen that were fit
for slaughter, of the horses that were old enough for breaking-
in, of the buffaloes that were strong enough to be employed
in working. The herds were then re-driven to the plain, there
to remain until night. This operation lasted during a fort
night, after which time the animals were set at liberty until the
same period of the following year. When at liberty the herd
divided itself into bands, and thus roamed about the mountains
and the valleys they had previously quitted, the only trouble

232 TWENTY YEAES IN THE PHILIPPINES.

caused to the shepherds being an occasional ramble about the
spots where the animals tranquilly grazed.

Around me all was prosperity. My Indians were also happy,
and entertained towards me a respect and obedience bordering
on idolatry. My brother gave me every assistance in my
labours, and when near my beloved Anna I forgot all the toils
and the contrarieties I had experienced. About this time a
new source of hope sprung up, which augmented the happiness
1 enjoyed with her, and made her dearer to me than ever.
During several months the health of my wife had changed : she
then found all the symptoms of pregnancy. We had been married
twelve years, and she had never yet shown any signs of maternity.
I was so persuaded that we should never have children that
the derangement of her health was causing me serious un
easiness, when one morning as I was going to my work she
said to me : "I don't feel well to-day, and I wish you to re
main with me:" Two hours afterwards, to my great surprise,
she gave premature birth to a little girl, whose arrival no one
expected. The infant was born before the due time, and lived
only one hour, just sufficient to receive baptism, which I ad
ministered to her. This was the second human being that
had expired in the house of Jala-Jala; but she was also the first
that had there first drawn the breath of life. The regret
which we all experienced from the loss was softened by the
certainty that my dear Anna might again become a mother,
under more favourable circumstances, tier health was speedily
re-established, and she was again gay and beautiful as ever
indeed she appeared so handsome, that often Indian women
came from a long distance for the sole purpose of looking at her
They would remain for half-an-hour gazing at her, and after
wards returned to their villages, where they gave birth to

BIRTH OF MY SON, 233

creatures little resembling the model which they had taken
such pains to observe, with a confidence approaching to
simplicity.

Eventually Anna exhibited new signs of maternity ; her
pregnancy went through the usual course, and her health
was not much affected. In due time she presented me
with a little boy, weakly and delicate, but full of life. Our
joy was at the highest, for we possessed that which we had
so long wished for, and that which alone was in my opinion
wanting.

My Indians were delighted with the birth, and for several
days there was a round of rejoicings at Jala-Jala ; and my
Anna, although confined to bed, was obliged to receive visits,
at first from all the women and maidens of the village, and
afterwards from all the Indians who were fathers of families
Each brought some little present for the newly born, and the
cleverest man of them was commissioned to express a com
pliment in the name of all ; which comprised their best
wishes for the happiness of the mother and child, and full
assurances of the satisfaction they felt in thinking that they
would one day be ruled over by the son of the master from
whom they had experienced so much kindness, and who had
conferred upon them such benefits. Their gratitude was
sincere.

The news of the accouchement of my wife brought a very
numerous party of friends and relations to my house, where
they waited for the baptism, which took place in my drawing-
room. Anna, then almost thoroughly well, was present on the
occasion : my son was named Henry, after his uncle. At this
time I was happy ; Oh, so truly happy ! for my wishes were
nearly gratified. There was but one not so — and that was to

284 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

see again my aged mother and my sisters ; but 1 hoped that
the time was not far distant when I should realise the project
of revisiting my native country. My farming speculation was
most prosperous : my receipts were every year on the increase ;
my fields were covered with the richest crops of sugar-canes, to
the cultivation of which, and of rice, I had joined that of coffee.
My brother had taken upon himself the management of a very
large plantation, which promised the most brilliant results;
and appeared likely to secure the premium which the Spanish
government had promised to give to the proprietor of a planta
tion of eighty thousand feet of coffee in product. But, alas !
the period of my happiness had passed away, and what pain
and what grief was I not doomed to suffer before I again saw
my native country.

My brother — my poor Henry — committed some imprudences,
and was suddenly attacked with an intermittent fever, which in
a few days carried him off.

My Anna and I shed abundance of tears, for we both loved
Henry with the warmest affection. For several years we had
lived together ; he participated in all our labours, our troubles,
and our pleasures. He was the only relative I had in the
Philippines. He had left France, where he had filled an
honourable position, with the sole object of coming to see
me, and of aiding me in the great task which I had under
taken. His amiable qualities and his excellent heart had
endeared him to us : his loss was irreparable, and the thought
that I had no longer a brother added poignancy to my bitter
grief. Prudent, the youngest, had died at Madagascar ; Robert,
the next to me, died at La Planche, near Nantes, in the little
dwelling where we spent cur childhood ; and my poor Henry
at Jala- Jala I erected a simple tomb for him near the door

MY FRIENDSHIP WITH MALVILAIN. ^35

of the church, and for several months Jala-Jala was a place of
grief and mourning.

We had scarcely begun, not indeed to console ourselves,
hut rather to bear with resignation the loss we had experienced,
when a new dispensation of fate came to strike me to the
earth.

On my arrival in the Philippines, and while I resided at
Cavite, I formed a close connection with Malvilain, a native of
St. Malo, and mate of a ship from that port. During several
years which he spent at Cavite our friendship was most inti
mate. A day seldom passed that we did not see each other,
and two days never, for we were much attached. Our two
ships were at anchor in the port, not far one from the other.
One day as I was walking on deck, waiting for a boat to take
me on board Malvilain's ship, I saw his crew at work in regu
lating one of the masts, when a rope suddenly snapped, and
the mast fell with a frightful crash on the deck, in the midst of
the men, amongst whom Malvilain was standing. From the
deck of my own ship I beheld all that passed on that of my
friend, who I thought was killed or wounded. My feelings
were worked to the highest pitch of anguish and alarm; I
could not control myself; I jumped into the water and swam
to his ship, where I had the pleasure of finding him un
injured, although considerably stunned by the danger from
which he had escaped. Wet as I was from my sea-bath I
caught him in my arms, and pressed him to my heart; and
then hastened to afford relief to some of the crew, who had not
been so fortunate to escape without injury as he had been.

Another time I was the cause of serious alarm to Malvilain.
One day. a mass of black and thick clouds was gathered close
over the point of Cavite, and a frightful — that is, a tropical —

236 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

storm burst. The claps of thunder followed each other from
minute to minute, and before each clap the lightning, in long
serpent-like lines of fire, darted from the clouds, and drove 011
ttf the point of Cavite, where it tore up the ground of the
little plain situate at the extremity, and near which the ships
were moored. Notwithstanding the storm I was going to see
Malvilaiu, and was almost in the act of placing my foot on the
deck of his vessel, when the lightning fell into the sea so near
to me that I lost my breath. Instantly I felt an acute pain in
the back, as if a burning torch had been laid between my
shoulders. The pain was so violent, that the moment I re
covered myself I uttered a sharp scream. Malvilain, who was
within a few paces of me, felt very sensibly the electric shock
which had struck me, and, on hearing my cry, imagined that
I was dangerously hurt. He rushed towards me and held me
in his arms until I was able to give every assurance of my
recovery. The electric fluid had grazed me, but without causing
any positive injury.

I have related these two slight anecdotes to show the
intimacy that subsisted between us, and how I afterwards
suffered in my dearest affections.

My existence has to this day, when I write these lines,
been filled with such extraordinary facts, that I have been
naturally led to believe that the destiny of man is regulated
by an order of things which must infallibly be accomplished.
This idea has had great influence over me, and taught me
to endure all the evils which have afflicted me. Was it, then,
my destiny which bound me to Malvilain, and bound him to
me in the same manner ? I have no doubt of it.

Some- days before the terrible scourge of the cholera broke
out in the Philippines, Malvilain's ship set sail for France.

THE MARRIAGE AND DEATH OF MALVILAIN. 237

With hearts oppressed with grief we separated, after promising
each that we should meet again ; but, alas ! fate had ordained
it otherwise. Malvilain returned home, went to Nantes to
take the command of a ship, and there became acquainted with
my eldest sister, and married her. This news, which reached
me while I resided in Manilla, gave me the greatest satis
faction, for if I had had to choose a husband for my dear sister
Emilie, this marriage was the only one to satisfy the wishes I
had formed for the happiness of both.

After his marriage Malvilain continued to sail from the
port of Nantes. His noble disposition and his accurate know
ledge of his duties caused him to be highly esteemed by the
leading merchants. His affairs were in a state sufficiently
good as not to require him to expose himself longer to the
dangers of the sea, and he was on his last voyage, when, at
the Mauritius, he was attacked by an illness, which carried him
off, leaving my sister inconsolable, and with three very young
girls to lament him.

This fresh and irreparable loss, the news of which had then
reached me, added to my grief for the sad death of my poor
brother. Every calamity seemed to oppress me. After some
years of happiness I saw, by little and little, disappear from
this world, the persons on whom I had concentrated my dearest
affections ; but, alas ! I had not even then reached the term
of my sorrows, for other and most bitter sufferings were still
to be passed through.

I saw with pleasure my boy was enjoying the best health,
and that he was daily increasing in strength ; and yet I was
far from being happy, and to the melancholy caused by the
losses I had experienced was added another most fearful
alarm. My beloved Anna had never thoroughly recovered

238 TWENTY YEAES IN THE PHILIPPINES.

after her accouchement, and day by day her health was growing
weaker. She did not seem aware of her state. Her happi
ness at being a mother was so great that she did not think of
her own condition.

I had gathered in my sugar-cane crop, which was most
abundant, and my plantations were finished, when, wishing to
procure some amusement for my wife, I proposed to go and
spend some time at the house of her sister Josephine, for
whom she entertained the warmest affection. She, with great
pleasure, agreed to do so. We set out with our dear little
Henry and his nurse, and took up our quarters at the house
of my brother-in-law, Don Julian Calderon, then residing in a
pretty country-house on the banks of the river Pasig, half a
league from Manilla.

Of the three sisters of my wife, Josephine was the one for
whom I had the most affection : I loved her as I did my own
sister. The day of our arrival was one of rejoicing. All our
friends at Manilla came to see us, and Anna was so pleased
in seeing our little Henry admired that her health seemed to
have improved considerably; but this apparent amelioration
lasted but a few days, and soon, to my grief, I saw that she was
growing worse than ever. I sent for the only medical man in
Manilla in whom I had confidence, my friend Genu. He came
frequently to see her, and after six weeks of constant attention,
he advised me to take her back to my residence near the lake,
where persons attacked with the same malady as my dear
Anna had often recovered. As she herself wished to return,
I appointed a day for our departure. A commodious boat,
with good rowers, was ready for us on the Pasig, at the end of
my brother in-law's garden ; and a numerous assemblage of our
friends accompanied us to the water's edge. The moment of

•VIELAiNCHOLY ADIEUS.

separation was one of most melancholy feelings to us all. The
countenance of each seemed to ask: "Shall we meet again?"
My sister-in-law Josephine, in a flood of tears, threw herself into
Anna's arms. I had great difficulty in separating them ; but we
were obliged to set out. I took my wife into the boat, and then
those two sisters, who had always maintained towards each
other the most tender love, addressed with their voices their
last adieus, while promising not to be long separated, and
that they would see each other very soon.

Those painful adieus and the sufferings of my wife caused
the trip, which we had often previously made with the greatest
gaiety, to be melancholy and sileait. On our arrival, I did not
look on Jala-Jala with the usual feelings of satisfaction. I had
my poor patient placed in bed, and did not quit her room,

$40 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

hoping by my continual care to afford her some relief in her
sufferings. But, alas ! from day to day the malady made
fearful progress. I was in despair. I wrote to Josephine, and
sent a boat to Manilla for her to come and take care of her
sister, who was most anxious to see her. The boat returned
without her ; but a letter from kind-hearted Josephine informed
me that she was herself dangerously ill, and confined to her
room, and could not even leave her bed ; that she was very sorry
for it, but I might assure Anna that they would soon be re-united,
never again to be separated.

Fifty days — longer to me than a century — had scarcely
elapsed since our return to Jala-Jala than all my hopes va
nished. Death was approaching with rapid strides, and the
fatal moment was at hand when I was to be separated from
her whom I loved with such intensity. She preserved her
senses to the last, and saw my profound melancholy, and
my features altered by grief; and finding her last hour was
near, she called me to her, and said : " Adieu, my beloved
Paul, adieu. Console thyself — we shall meet again in Heaven !
Preserve thyself for the sake of our dear boy. When I shall
be no more, return home to thy own country, to see thy aged
mother. Never many again, except in France, if thy mother
requires thee to do so. Do not marry in the Philippines, for
thou wilt never find a companion here to love thee as I have
loved." These words were the last which this good and gentle
angel spoke. The most sacred ties, the tenderest and purest
union, were then severed — my Anna was no more ! I held her
lifeless body clasped in my arms, as if I hoped by my caresses
to recall her to life ; but, alas ! her destiny was decided !

It required absolute force to tear me from the precious
remains which I pressed against my heart, and to draw me

MY PROFOUND CHIEF. 2<il

into a neighbouring room, where my son was. While I
pressed him convulsively to my breast, I wished to weep ; but
my eyes were tearless, and I was insensible to the caresses
even of my poor child.

The strongest constitution cannot resist the fatigue of fifty
days of constant watching and uneasiness ; and the state of
annihilation in which I was, both physically and morally, after
despair had taken the place of the glimmering hope which sus
tained us to the last moment, was such that I fell into a state
of insensibility, which ended in a profound sleep. I awoke on
the following day with my son in my arms. But how frightful
was my state on awaking. All that was horrible in my position
presented itself to my imagination. Alas ! she was no more ;
my adorable companion, that beloved angel and consolatrix,
who had, on my account, abandoned all — parents, friends, and
the pleasures of a capital — to shut herself up with me in
a deserted wilderness, where she was exposed to a thousand
dangers, and had but me to support her. She was no more ;
and fatal destiny had torn her from me, to sink me for ever in
desolation and grief.

The funeral took place on the following clay, and was at
tended by every inhabitant of Jala-Jala. Her body was depo
sited near the altar in the humble church which I had caused
to be erected, and before which altar she had so often poured
forth prayers for my happiness.

For a long time mourning and consternation reigned in
Jala-Jala. All my Indians showed the deepest sympathy for
the loss which they had suffered. Anna was, during her life,
beloved even to idolatry, and after her death she was most
sincerely lamented.

for several days I continued in a thorough depression,

L

242 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

unable to attend to anything, except to the cares which my
son, then my only remaining consolation, required. Three
weeks elapsed before I quitted the room in which my poor wife
had expired. I then received a note from Josephine, in which
she stated that her illness had grown worse. The note ended
with these words : " Come, my dear Paul ; come to me : we
shall weep together. I feel that your presence will afford some
consolation."

I did not hesitate to comply with the request of dear
Josephine, for whom I entertained an affection as if for my
own sister. My presence might prove a solace to her, and I
myself felt that it would prove to me a great consolation to see
a person who had so sincerely loved my Anna. The hope of
being useful to her re-animated my courage a little. I left my
house under the care of Prosper Vidie, an excellent friend, who
during the last days of my wife's life had not quitted me, and
departed, accompanied by my son.

After the first emotion which Josephine and I felt on
meeting, and when we both had shed abundant tears, I exa
mined her state. It required a strong effort on my part to con
ceal from her my anxiety, on finding her labouring under a most
serious malady, and which gave me grounds for fearing that a
fresh misfortune was not far distant. Alas ! my forebodings
were correct ; for eight days afterwards poor Josephine expired
in my arras, after the most poignant sufferings. What abun
dant sources of woe in so short a space of time ! It required
a constitution strong as mine was to bear up against such a
number of sorrows, and not to fail under the burthen.

When I had paid the last duties to my sister-in-law I went
back to Jala-Jala. To me everything was burthcnsome. 1
was obliged to betake myself to my forests and to my mouu-

I RESIGN Mkr GOVERNMENT AT JALA-JALA. 243

tains, in order to recover a little calmness. Some months
passed over before I could attend to my affairs ; but the last
wishes of my poor wife required to be fulfilled, and I was to
quit the Philippines and return to my country. I commenced
preparations for the purpose. I made over my establishment
to my friend Vidie, who was, as I considered, the person best
adapted for carrying out my plans, and for treating my poor
Indians well. He requested me to stop a little time with
him, and to show him the secrets of my little government. I
consented, and the more willingly, as those few months would
serve to render my son stronger, and better able to support the
fatigues of a long voyage. I therefore remained at Jala-Jala ;
but life had become painful to me, and without an object, so
that it was positively a trouble. There was nothing to distract
me — nothing to remove the most painful thoughts from me.
The pretty spots of Jala-Jala, over which I had often looked
with the greatest pleasure, had become altogether indifferent to
me. I sought out the most melancholy and silent places. I
often went to the banks of a rivulet, concealed in the midst of
high mountains, and shaded by lofty trees. This spot was
perhaps known to no other person ; and probably no human
being had ever previously been seated in it. There I gave
free vent to my bitter recollections — my wife, my brothers, my
sister-in-law, engrossed my imagination. When the thought
of my son drove away these sombre reveries, I returned slowly
to my house, where I found the poor child, who, by his
caresses, seemed to try to find some way to cause a change in
my grief; but they seemed only to recall the time when Anna
always came to welcome me home, and when, clasping me in
her arms, she caused me to forget all the toil and trouble I
met with when absent from her. Alas ! that blissful time had

244 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

flown away, and was never to return ; and in losing my com
panion I lost every happiness.

My friend Vidie tried every means in his power to rouse
me. He spoke to me often of France, of my mother, and of the
consolation I should feel on presenting my son to her. The
love of my country, and the thought of finding there those
affections of which I stood so much in need, was a soft balm,
which lulled for a while the sufferings that were constantly
vibrating in the bottom of my heart.

My Indians were deeply afflicted on learning the resolution
I had taken of quitting them. They showed their trouble by
saying to me, every time they addressed me ! " Oh, master :
what will become of us when we shall not see you again ?" I
quieted them as well as I could, by assuring them that Vidie
would exert himself for their welfare ; that when my son
should be grown up, I would come back with him and then
never leave them. They answered me with their prayers :
" May God grant it, master ! But what a long time we shall
have to pass without seeing you ! However, we ehall not
forget yon "

Ajetas Indians.

CHAPTEK XII.

My friend Adolphe Barrot visits me at Jala-Jala — The Bamboo Cane — The Cocoa-
Nut Tree — The Banana — Majestic Forests of Gigantic Trees — The Leeches
— A Tropical Storm in a Forest — An Indian Bridge — " Bernard the Hermit" —
We arrive at Binangon-de-Lampon — The Ajetas — Veneration of the Ajetas for
their Dead — Poison used by the Ajetas — I carry away a Skeleton— We Embark
on the Pacific in an old Canoe, reach Maoban, and ultimately arrive at Jala-Jala.

A T this epoch of my recollections, in the midst of my

melancholy and of my troubles, I formed an intimate and

enduring friendship with a compatriot, a good and excellent

man. for whom T always preserve the attachment first formed

246 TWENTY YEAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

in a foreigii country, several thousand leagues from home. I
now speak of Adolphe Barrot, who was sent as consul-general
to Manilla. He came with several friends to spend some days
at Jala-Jala. Being unwilling that he should suffer any un
pleasantness from the state of my feelings, I endeavoured to
render his stay at Jala-Jala as agreeable as in my power. I
arranged several hunting and shooting parties, and excursions
through the mountains and on the lake. For his sake I re
sumed my old mode of life, such as I had been used to before I
was overwhelmed by misfortune.

The days which I thus spent in company with Adolphe
Barrot aroused within me my former taste for exercise, and my
ruling passion for adventure. My friend Vidie — always with
the intention of exciting me to action — pressed me very much
to go and visit a certain class of the natives which I had
often expressed a wish to examine. My affairs being almost
regulated ; my son being placed under his care, and that of his
nurse, and of a housekeeper in whom I had every confidence ; I
was induced, by this feeling of security, and by the instances of
my friend, to proceed to visit the district of the Ajetas, or Black-
men, who were a wild race, altogether in a state of nature.
They were the aborigines of the Philippines, and had for
a long time been masters of Luzon At a time not very far dis
tant, when the Spaniards conquered the country, the Ajetas
levied a kind of black-mail from the Tagalese villages situated
on the banks of the lake of Bay. At a fixed period they
quitted their forests, entered the villages, and forced the inha
bitants to give them a certain quantity of rice and maize ; and
if the Tagalese refused or were unable to pay these contribu
tions, they cut off a number of heads, which they carried away
as trophies for their barbarian festivities. After the conquest

WE START TO VISIT THE A J ETAS. 217

of the Philippines by the Spaniards, the latter took upon them
selves the defence of the Tagalese, and the Ajetas, terrified by
their fire-arras, remained in the forests, and did not re-appear
among the Indians.

The same race is found in various parts of the Malay
country ; and the people of New Zealand — the Paponins — re
semble them very much in form and colour.

My intention was to pass some days amongst those wild
savages, and our preparations were speedily made. I chose two
of my best Indians to accompany me. It is not requisite to state
that my lieutenant was one of the party, for he was always with
me in all my perilous expeditions.

We took each of us a small haversack, containing rice for
three or four days, some dried venison, a good provision of
powder, ball, and shot for gameysome coloured handkerchiefs,
and a considerable quantity of cigars for our own use, and to
insure a welcome amongst the Ajetas. Each of us carried a
good double-barreled gun and his poignard. Our clothes were
those which we wore in all our expeditions, — on our heads the
common salacote, a shirt of raw silk, the pantaloon turned up to
above the knee ; the feet and legs remained uncovered. With
these simple preparations we set out on a trip of some weeks,
during which, and from the second day of our starting, we could
expect no shelter but the trees of the forest, and no food but
the game we shot, and the edible parts of the palm tree.

I took special care not to forget the vade mecum which I
always took with me, whenever I made these excursions for any
number of days — I mean paper and a pencil, with which I
made notes, to aid my recollections, and enable me afterwards
to write down in a journal the remarks I made during my
travels. Every preparation being made, we one morning

248 TWENTY TEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

started from Jala-Jala. We traversed the peninsula formed
by my settlement, and embarked on the other side in a small
canoe, which took us to the bottom of the lake to the north
east of my habitation. We passed the night in the large
village of Siniloan, and at an early hour the following day
resumed our march. This first day's journey was one of toil
and suffering : we were then beginning the rainy season, and
the heavy storms had swelled the rivers. We marched for
some time along the banks of a torrent, which rushed down
from the mountains, and which we were obliged to swim
through fifteen times during the day. In the evening we
camo to the foot of the mountains where begin the forests of
gigantic trees, which cover almost all the centre of the island
of Luzon. There we made our first halt, lighted our fires,
and prepared our beds and our supper. I think that I have
already described our beds, which use and fatigue always ren
dered agreeable to us, when no accident occured to disturb our
repose. But I. have said nothing of the simple composition of
our meals, nor of our manner of preparing them. Our rice
and palms required to be cooked, an operation which might
seem rather embarrassing, for we had with us no large kitchen
articles : we sometimes wanted a fire-box and tinder. But
the bamboo supplied all these. The bamboo is one of the
three tropical plants which Nature, in her beneficence and
care, seems to have given to man to supply most of his wants.
And here I cannot forbear dedicating a few lines to the de
scription of those three products of the tropics, viz : the bam
boo, the cocoa-nut tree, and the banana-plant.

The bamboo belongs to the gramineous family ; it grows in
thick groves, in the woods, on the river banks, and wherever
it finds a humid Boil. In the Philippines there are counted

UTILITY OF THE BAMBOO. 'M9

wcnty-five or thirty kinds, different in form and thickness.
There are some of the diameter of the human body, and hollow
in the interior : this kind serves especially for the construction
of huts, and for making vessels to transport and to keep water.
The filaments are used for making baskets, hats, and all kinds
of basket-work, cords, and cables of great solidity.

Another bamboo, of smaller dimensions, and hollow within,
which is covered with varnish, almost as hard as steel, is em
ployed in building Indian houses. Cut to a point it is ex
tremely sharp, and is used for many purposes. The Indians
make lances of it, and arrows, and fleams for bleeding horses,
and lancets for opening abcesses, and for taking thorns or
other things out of the flesh.

A third kind, much more solid, and as thick as one's arm,
and not hollow within, is used in such parts of the buildings as
require sold timber, and especially in the roofing.

A fourth kind, much smaller, and also without being hollow,
serves to make the fences that surround enclosed fields when
tilled. The other kinds are not so much employed, but still
they are found to be useful.

To preserve the plants, and to render them very productive,
the shoots are cut at ten feet from the ground. These shoots
look like the tubes of an organ, and are surrounded with
branches and thorns. At the beginning of the rainy season
there grows from each of those groves a quantity of thick
bamboos, resembling large asparagus, which shoot up as it
were by enchantment. In the space of a month they become
from fifty to sixty feet long, and after a short time they acquire
all the solidity necessary for the various works to which they
are destined.

The cocoa-nut tree belongs to the palm family : it requires to
L*

250

TWENTY YEAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

grow seven years before it bears fruit ; but after this period, and
for a whole century, it yields continually the same product — that
is, every month about twenty large nuts. This produce never
fails, and on the snme tree may be seen continually flowers and

fruits of all sizes. The cocoa
nut affords, as everyone knows,
nutritious food, and when pressed
yields a quantity of oil. The
shell of the nut serves to make
vases, and the filamentary parts
are spun into ropes and cables
for ships, and even into coarse
clothing. The leaves are used
to make baskets and brooms,
and for thatching the huts.

A liquor is also taken from
the cocoa-nut tree, called cocoa-
wine ; it is a most stupifying drink, of which the Indians make
great use at their festivities. To produce the cocoa-wine, large
groves of the cocoa-trees are laid out, from which merely the
sap or juice is expected, but nothing in the shape of fruit.
These trees have long bamboos laid at their tops from one
to another, on which the Indians pass over every morning,
bearing large vessels, in which they collect the liquid. It is a
laborious and dangerous employment, — a real promenade in the
air, at the height of from sixty to eighty feet from the ground.
It is from the bud which ought to produce the flower that the
liquid is drawn of which the spirit is afterwards made. As
soon as the bud is about to burst, the Indian employed in col
lecting the liquid ties it very tight, a few inches from its
point, and then cuts across the point beyond the tying

The Cocoa-Nut.

THE COCOA-NUT THEK — THE BANANA

251

From this cutting, or from the pores which are left uncovered,
a saccharine liquid flows, which is sweetish and agreeable to
the palate before it has fermented. After it has passed the
fermentation it is carried to the still, and submitted to the
process of distillation, it then becomes the alcoholic liquor
known in the country as cocoa-wine.

Besides these uses, the cocoa-nut shell, when burned, gives
the line black colour which the Indians make use of to dye
their straw hats.

The banana is an herbaceous plant, without any woody mat
ter : the trunk of each is formed of
leaves placed one above the other.
This trunk rises from twelve to
fifteen feet from the ground, and
then spreads out into long broad
leaves, not less than five or six feet
each. From the middle of these
leaves the flower rises, and also the
spike (regime). By this word is to
be understood a hundred of large
bananas growing from the same
stalk, forming together a long
branch, that turns towards the sun.

Before the fruit has reached its full ripeness, tjie spike
is cut, and becomes fit for use. The part of the plant
which is in the earth is a kind of large root, from which
proceed successively thirty shoots, and each shoot ought not
to have more than one spike, or bunch ; it is then cut
fronting the sun, and as all the shoots rising from the
same trunk are of different ages, there are fruits to be found
in all the stages of growth ; so that every month or fort-

Tha Danana.

252 TWENTY TEAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

night, and at all seasons, a spike or two may be gathered
from the same plant. There is also a species of banana
the fruit of which is not good to eat, but from which raw
silk is formed, called abaca, which is used to make clothes,
and all kinds of cordage. This filament is found in the trunk
of the plant, which, as I have said, consists of leaves placed one
over another, which, after being separated into long strips,
and left for some hours in the sun, is then placed on an iron
blade, not sharp, and then dragged with force over it. The paren-
chyme of the plant is taken off by the iron blade, and the fila
ments then separate. Nothing is now wanting but to expose
them for some time to the sun's rays ; after which they are
brought to market.

I observe that I have left my journey aside to describe
three tropical plants, which afford a sufficiency for all the
wants of man. Those plants are well-known; yet there may
be some persons ignorant of the utility, and of the various
services which they render to the inhabitants of the tropics.
My readers will from them be naturally led to reflect how the
inhabitants of the torrid zone are favoured by nature, in com
parison with those of our frigid climate.

We were"* at the foot of the mountains, preparing to pass
the night. -'Our labour was always divided one got the beds
ready, another the fire, a third the cookery. He who had to
prepare me fire collects a quantity of dry wood and of brambles.
Under this heap of firewood he puts about twelve pounds of
elemi gum, which is common in the Philippines, where it is
found in quantities at the foot of the large trees from which it
flows naturally. He then takes a piece of bamboo, half a-yard
long, which he splits to its length, tears with poignard so as to
make very thin shavings, which he rubs together while rolling

OUR MODE OF LIVING ON THE JOURNEY. 253

them between his bands, and tben puts them into the hollow
part of the other piece, and lays it down on the ground, and
then with the sharp side of the piece from which he had taken
the shavings, he rubs strongly the piece lying on the ground,
as if he wished to saw it across. In a short time the bamboo
containing the shavings is cut through and on fire. The
flame rising from the shavings, when blown lightly upon, quickly
sets the elemi gum in a blaze, and in an instant there is a
fire sufficient to roast an ox.

He who had to manage the cooking cut two or three
pieces of the large bamboo, and put in each whatever he wished
to cook — usually rice or some part of the palm tree — he
added some water, stopped the ends of the bamboo with
leaves, and laid it in the middle of the fire. This bamboo was
speedily burned on the outside, but the interior was moistened
by the water, and the food within was as well boiled as in
any earthen vessels. For plates we had the large palm
leaves. Our meals, as may be observed, were Spartan enough,
even during the days while our provision of rice and dried
venison lasted. But when game was found, and that a stag or
a buffalo fell to our lot, we fed like epicures. We drank pure
water whenever a spring or a rivulet tempted us, but if we
were at a loss we cut long pieces of the liana, called " the travel
ler's drink," from which flowed a clear and limpid draught,
preferable perhaps to any jvhich we might have procured from
a better source.

It was evident I was not travelling like a, nabob ; and it
would have been impossible to take more baggage. How could
any one, with large provisions and a pompous retinue move
in the midst of mountains covered with forests literally along
untouched by human feet, and forced, in order to get through

254 TWENTY YKAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

them, at every instant to swim across torrents, and having
no other guide than the sun, or the blowing of the breeze
There "was no choice but to travel in the Indian style, as I did,
or to remain at home.

The first night we spent in the open air passed quietly ;
our strength was restored, and we were recruited for the
journey. At an early hour we wrere up, and, after a frugal
breakfast, we resumed our march. For more than two hours
we climbed up a mountain covered with heavy timber, the
ascent was rough and fatiguing, at last we reached the top,
quite exhausted, where there was a vast flat, which it would
take us some days to traverse. It was there, on this flat, that
I beheld the most majestic, the finest virgin forest that existed
in the world. It consists of gigantic trees, grown up as
straight as a rush, and to a prodigious height. Their tops,
where alone their branches grow, are laced into one another,
so as to form a vault impenetrable to the rays of the sun.
Under this vault, and among those fine trees, prolific nature
has given birth to a crowd of climbing plants of a most remark
able description. The rattan and the flexible liana mount up
to the topmost branches, and re-descending to the earth, take
fresh root, receive new sustenance, and then remount anew,
and at various distances they join themselves to the friendly
trunks of their supporting columns, and thus they form very
often most beautiful decorations. Varieties of the pandanus
are to be seen, of which the leaves, in bunches, start from the
ground, forming beautiful sheaves. Enormous ferns were to be
met with, real trees in shape, and up which we clambered often,
to cut the top branches, for their delicious perfume and which
serve as food nearly the same as the palms. But, in the
midst of this extraordinary vegetation nature is gloomy and

A VIRGIN FOREST — THE LEECHES. 255

silent; not a sound is to be heard, unless perhaps the wind
that shakes the tops of the trees, or from time to time the
distant noise of a torrent, which, falling precipitately, cascades
from the heights of the mountains to thei.r base. The ground
is moist, as it never receives the sun's rays : the little lakes
and the rivers, that never flow unless when swollen by the
storms, present to the eye water black and stagnant, on which
the reflection of the fine clear blue sky is never to be seen.

The sole inhabitants of these melancholy though majestic
solitudes are deer, buffaloes and wild boars, which being hidden
in their lairs and dens in the daytime, come out at night in
search of food. Birds are seldom seen, and the monkeys so
common in the Philippines, shun the solitude of these im
mense forests. One kind of insect is met with in great abun
dance, and it plagues the traveller to the utmost ; they are the
small leeches, which are found on all the mountains of the
Philippines that are covered with forests. They lie close to
the ground in the grass, or on the leaves of the trees, and dart
like grasshoppers on their prey, to which they fasten. Travel
lers are therefore always provided with little knives, cut from
the bamboo, to loosen the hold of the insects, after which
they rub the wound with a little chewed tobacco. But soon
another leech, attracted by the flowing blood, takes the place
of the one which was removed, and constant care is necessary
to avoid being victimised by those little insects, of which the
voracity far exceeds that of our common leeches.

Our way lay through these singular creations of nature,
and I was engaged in looking at and examining the curiosities
around me, while my Indians were seeking some kind of game —
deer, buffalo, or wild boar — to replace our stock of rice and
venison, which was exhausted. We were at length reduced

TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

to the palms as our only resource; but the palms, though
pleasing to the palate, are not sufficiently nutritive to recruit
the strength of poor travellers, when, suffering under extreme
fatigue, and after a laborious march,
,,.,, vl'.iilU1; .« , they find no lodging but the moist

ground, and no shelter but the vault
of the sky.

We directed our course as near
as possible towards the eastern
coast, which is bathed by the
Pacific ocean. We knew that it
was in that direction the Ajctas
commenced their settlement. We
wished also to pass through the
large Tagalese village, Binangonan
de Lampon, which is to be found,
isolated and hidden, at the foot of

the eastern mountains, in the midst of the savages. We
had already spent several nights in the forest, and without
experiencing any great inconvenience. The fires which we
lighted every evening warmed us, and saved us from the
myriads of terrible leeches, which otherwise would certainly
have devoured us. We imagined that we were within one
day's march of the sea-shore, where we expected to take
some time for rest, when, of a sudden, a burst of thunder at a
distance gave us reason to apprehend a storm. Nevertheless,
we continued our journey ; but in a short time the growling of
the thunder approached so near as to leave no doubt that the
hurricane would burst over us. We stopped, lighted our fires,
cooked our evening's repast, and placed some of the palm leaves
on polos by the side of a blope to save us from the heavy rain

Fruit of the Tr.lm Trie.

A TROPICAL STOilM. 257

We had not finished all our preparations when the storm hroke.
if we had not had the glimmering glare of our firebrands
we should have been in profound obscurity, although it was not
yet night. We all three, with pieces of palm branches in our
hands, crouched under the slight shelter which we had impro.
vised, and there awaited the full force of the storm. f The
thunder-claps were redoubled ; the rain began with violence to
batter the trees, and then to assail us like a torrent. Our
fires were speedily extinguished; we found ourselves in the
deepest darkness, interrupted only by the lightning, which from
time to time rushed, serpent-like, through the trees of the
forest, scattering a dazzling light, to leave us the moment after
in profound obscurity. Around us the din was horrible ; the
thunder was continuous, the echoes of the mountains repeating
from distance to distance its sound, sometimes deadened, and
sometimes with awful grandeur. The wind, which blew with
violence, shattered the uppermost parts of the trees, breaking
off large branches, which fell with a crash to the ground.
Some trunks were uprooted, and, while falling, tore down the
boughs of the neighbouring trees. The rain was incessant, and
in the intervals between the thunder we could hear the awful
roar of the waters of a torrent which rushed madly past the
base of the mound where we had taken refuge. Amidst all
this frightful commotion, mournful and dismal sounds were
heard, like the howls of a large dog which had lost its master :
they were the cries of the deer in their distress, seeking for a
place of shelter. Nature seemed to be in convulsions, and to
have declared war in every element. The loose thatch under
which we had taken refuge was soon penetrated, and we were
completely deluged. We soon quitted this miserable hole, pre
ferring to move our stiffened and almost deadened limbs, covered

258 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

with the fearful little leeches, which terrible infliction deprived
us of the strength so necessary ia our awful position.

I avow that at this moment I sincerely repented my fatal
curiosity, for which I paid so dearly. I could compare this
frightful night only to the one I had passed in the bamboos,
when .1 was wrecked on the lake. In appearance there was
not such pressing danger, for we could not be swallowed up
by the waves ; but there were large trees, under which we
were obliged to stop, and one of which might be uprooted
and fall upon us ; a bough torn off by the wind might crush
us ; and the lightning, equally terrific in its reports and its
effects, might strike us at any moment. One thing was especially
painful, and that was the cold, and the difficulty of moving
our frozen and almost paralysed limbs. We awaited with
impatience the cessation of the storm ; but it was not until
after three hours of mortal agony that the thunder gradually
ceased. The wind fell ; the rain subsided ; and for some time
we heard nothing but the large drops which dripped from the
trees, and the dread sound of the torrents. Calm was restored ;
the sky became pure and starry : but we were deprived of
that view which gives hope to the traveller, for the forest
presented only a dome of green, impenetrable to the sight.

Exhausted as we were by our exposure to the elements
and our exertions, we were so overpowered by nature's great
renovator sleep, that, notwithstanding our clothes were saturated
with the rain, we were able to pass the remainder of the night in
tranquillity. At break of day the forest, which a few hours
previously had been the scene of the terrors which I have
described, was again tranquil and silent. When we quitted
our lair we were frightful to look at ; we were covered with
leeches, and the marks of blood on our faces rendered us

THE EFFECTS OF THE LEECHES. 259

hideous. On looking at my two poor Indians I could not
avoid laughing aloud ; they also looked at me, hut their re
spcct for me prevented their laughing. I was no doubt equally
punished, and my white skin must have served to show well the
ravages of these creatures. We were, indeed, knocked up ; we
could scarcely move, so weak had we become. However, act
we must, and promptly, — to light a fire quickly, in order to
warm us ; to cook some of the palm stalks ; to cross, by
swimming, a torrent which, with a terrible noise, was rushing
on below us ; and to reach, during the day, the shores of the
Pacific ocean. If we delayed to start it might not be pos
sible to pass through the torrents, — we had left several behind
us, — we might find ourselves in the impossibility of going
either backward or forward, and perhaps be obliged to remain
several days waiting for the waters to subside before we could
proceed. Besides, other storms might arise, frequent as they
are at this season, and we should have to remain for several
weeks in a desert spot without resources, and where the first
night passed under such a bad roof was no recommendation.
There was no time to be lost. From a large heap of palm
leaves, where we had placed and covered up our haversacks in
order to preserve them from the wet, we drew them out safe ;
our precautions had fortunately been successful, they were
quite dry. We made a large fire, thanks to the elemi gum,
which burns with such ease. Our feelings were delightful
when the heat entered our frames, dried our dripping gar
ments, re-animated our courage, and gave us some strength.
But, to enjoy that satisfaction fully, one should have acquired
it at the same cost as I had. I very much doubt that any
European would like to participate in the scenes of that night
simply for the enjoyments of the following day.

260 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

Our scanty cookery was soon ready, and expeditiously dis
patched, and we moved off in quick time.

My Indians were uneasy, as they feared they would not be
able to pass through the torrent which was heard at a distance,
consequently they marched quicker than I did. On reaching
the bank I found them in a consternation. "Oh, master!" said
my faithful Alila, " it is not possible to pass ; so we must spend
some days here." I cast my eyes on the torrent, which was
rolling between steep rocks, in a yellow, muddy stream : it had
all the appearance of a cascade, and was carrying down the
trunks of trees and branches broken off during the storm.
My Indians had already come to a decision, and were arranging
a spot for a fit bivouac; but I did not wish to give up all
hopes of success so speedily, and set about examining with care
the means of overcoming the difficulty.

The torrent was not more than a hundred yards in breadth^
and a good swimmer could with ease get over in a few minutes.
But it was necessary, on the opposite side, to arrive at a spot
which was not too steep, and where one could find safe footing,
and out of the torrent; otherwise the risk would be run of
being drawn down, no one could tell whither.

From the bank on which we were it was easy to jump
into the water, but on the other side, for a hundred yards
down the stream, there was but one spot where the rocks
were interrupted. A small stream joined there the one we
wished to cross. After I had carefully calculated by sight
the length of the passage, I considered myself strong enough
to attempt it. I was a better swimmer than my Indians ;
and I was certain if I was once on the other side, that
they would follow. I told them that I was going to cross over
the torrent.

AN INDIAN BJITDGK. "2Q\

But one reflection caused me to hesitate. How could I
preserve our haversacks, and save our precious provision of
powder? How keep our guns from injury ? It would not be
possible to think of carrying those articles on my back through
a torrent so rapid, and in which, beyond doubt, I should be
under water more than once before I gained the other side.

The Indians, being fertile in expedients, speedily extricated
me from this difficulty : they cut several rattans, and joined the
ends together, so as to form a considerable length. One of
them climbed a tree which leant over the torrent, and there
fastened one end of the rattan length, while I took the other
end to carry it over to the other bank. All our arrangements
being effected I plunged into the water, and without much
difficulty gained the opposite side, having the end of the rattan
with me, which I fastened to a tree on the steep bank I had
gained, allowing a slight inclination of the line towards me,
yet raised sufficiently over the water to allow the articles
which we were anxious to pass over to slide along without
touching the water. Our newly constructed bridge was won
derfully successful. The articles came across quite safe and
dry ; and my Indians, by its aid, quickly joined me. We con
gratulated each other on our fortunate passage, and the more
so, as we expected before sunset to reach the Pacific ocean. Of
the woods we had had enough : and we now looked for the
sun, which for several days had been obscured by clouds ; the
leeches caused us considerable suffering, and weakened us very
much, and our miserable diet was not sufficient to recruit our
exhausted frames. Moreover we did not doubt that, on reaching
the sea, we should be amply recompensed for all the privations
we had endured. In fine, with renewed hopes we found our
courage revive, and soon forgot the fatal night of the storm

262 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

I walked nearly as quick as my Indians, who, like me,
hastened to get clear of the insupportable humidity in which
we had existed for several days.

Two hours after we had passed the torrent a dull and
distant sound struck our ears. At first we supposed it to be
a fresh storm ; but soon we knew, from its regularity, that it
was nothing less than the murmur of the Pacific ocean, and
the sound of the waves which come from afar to break them
selves on the eastern shore of Luzon. This certainty caused
me a most pleasing emotion. In a few hours I should again
see the blue sky, warm myself in the generous rays of the
sun, and find a boundless horizon. I should also get rid of the
fearful leeches, and should soon salute Nature, animated in
creation, in exchange for the solitudes from which we had
just emerged.

We were now on the declivity of the mountains, the descent
of which was gentle and our march easy. The sound of the waves
increased by degrees. Near three o'clock in the afternoon we
perceived through the trees that the sun was clear ; and an in
stant afterwards we beheld the sea, and a magnificent beach,
covered with fine glittering sand. The first movement of all
three was to strip off our clothes and to plunge into the waves ;
and while we thus enjoyed a salutary bath, we amused our
selves in collecting off the rocks a quantity of shell-fish,
which enabled us to make the most hearty meal we had eaten
since we started from home.

Having thus satisfied our hunger, our thoughts were directed
to taking rest, of which we stood in great need ; but it was no
longer on knotty and rough pieces of timber, that we were
going to repose, — it was on the soft sand, which the shore offered
to us, warmed aa it wa? by the last rays of the setting sun.

" BEKXAliD THE HEKMIT." 263

It was almost night when we stretched ourselves on this bed,
which to us was preferable to one of down. Our sacks served
as pillows ; we laid our guns, which were properly primed,
close by our sides, and after a few minutes were buried in
a profound sleep. I know not how long I had enjoyed
this invigorating balm when I was awakened by the painful
feeling of something crawling over me. I felt the prickings of
sharp claws, which fastened in my skin, and occasionally caused
me great pain. Similar sensations had awakened my two
Indians. We collected the embers which were still ignited,
and were able to see the new kind of enemies which assailed us.
They were the crabs called " Bernard the Hermit,"* and in
such quantities that the ground was crawling with them, of all
sizes and of all ages. We swept the sand on which we laid
down, hoping to drive them away, and to have some sleep ; but
the troublesome — or rather, the famishing hermits — returned
to the charge, and left us neither peace or quiet. We were busy
in resisting their attacks, when suddenly, on the edge of the
forest, we perceived a light, which came towards us. We seized
our guns, and awaited its approach in profound silence and with
out any movement. We then saw a man and woman coming out
of the wood, each having a torch in their hands. We knew
them to be Ajetas, who were coming, no doubt, to catch fish
on the beach. When they reached within a few steps from us,
they stood for an instant motionless and gazed at us with fixed
attention. We three were seated, watching them, and trying
to guess their intentions. One of them put his hand to his
shoulder, as if to take his bow; and I instantly cocked my

* Bernard the Hermit is a crab, which lodges in the abandoned shell of
the molluscs, and comes at night in search of food, which it finds on the sea
beach.

264 TWENTY YEAUS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

gun. The noise caused by the movement of the gun-lock was
sufficient to frighten them : they threw down their light, and
scampered off like two wild beasts, in the highest alarm,
to hide themselves in the forest.

Their appearance was enough to prove that we were in a
place frequented by the Ajetas. The two savages whom we
had seen were perhaps gone to inform their friends, who
might come in great numbers and let fly at us their poisoned
arrows. This dread, and the incessant attacks of Bernard
the Hermit, caused us to spend the remainder of the night
near a large fire.

As soon as day broke we made an excellent breakfast,
thanks to the abundance of shell -fish, of which we could take
whatever quantity we liked, and then set out again. Our way lay
sometimes along the shore, and at other times through the woods.
The journey was very fatiguing, but without any incident worthy
of notice. It was after night-fall when we arrived at the
village of Binangonan de Lampon. This village, inhabited by
Tagalocs, is thrown, like an oasis of men, somewhat civilised,
in the midst of forests and savage people, and who had no direct
communication with the other districts which are governed by
the Spaniards.

My name was known to the inhabitants of Binangonan de
Lampon, consequently we were received with open arms, and all
the heads of the village disputed with each other for the honour
of having me as a guest. I gave the preference to him who had
first invited me, and in his dwelling I experienced the kindest
hospitality. I had scarcely entered when the mistress of the
house herself wished to wash my feet, and to show me all
those attentions which proved to me the pleasure they felt that
T had given them this preference.

CURIOSITY OF THE NATIVES.

265

Inhabitants of biuangouan de Lampon

During supper, while I was enjoying the good food which
was before me, the small house in which I was seated became
filled with young girls, who gazed at me with a curiosity
which was really comic. When I had finished my meal the con
versation with my host began to weary me, and I stretched
myself on a mat, which on that occasion I regarded as an
excellent substitute for a feather-bed.

I spent three days with the kind Tagalocs, who received
and treated me like a prince. On the fourth day I bade them
adieu, and we shaped our course to the northward, in the
midst of mountains covered with thick forests, and which, like
those that we had quitted, showed no path for the traveller,

266 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

except some tracks or openings through which wild animals
passed. We proceeded with great caution, for we found our
selves in the district peopled by Ajetas. At night we concealed
our fire, and each of us in turn kept watch, for what we dreaded
must was a surprise.

One morning, while marching in silence, we heard before
us a number of shrill voices, resembling rather the cries of
birds than human sounds. We kept strict watch, and shaded
ourselves as much as possible by the aid of the trees and of
the brushwood. Suddenly we perceived before us, at a very
little distance, forty savages of both sexes, and of all ages ;
they absolutely seemed to be mere brutes ; they were on the
bank of a river, and close to a large fire. We advanced some
steps presenting the but-end of our guns. The moment
they saw us they set up a shrill cry, and were about to
take to flight ; but I made signs, and showed the packet of
cigars which we wished to give them. Fortunately I had
learned at Binangonan the way by which I was to approach
them. As soon as they understood us they ranged themselves
in a line, like men about to be reviewed ; that was the signal
that we might come near them. We approached with the
cigars in our hands, and at one end of the line I began to
distribute my presents. It was highly important to make
friends of them, and, according to their custom, to give to each
an equal share. My distribution being finished, our alliance
was cemented, and peace concluded : the savages and we had
nothing to dread from each other. They all began smoking.
A stag had been suspended to a tree ; their chief cut three large
pieces from it with a bamboo knife, which he threw into the
glowing fire, and a moment afterwards drew it out again and
handed it round, a piece being given to each of us. The

OUR FEAST WITH THE AJETAS. 207

of this steak was burned, and a little spotted with cinders, but
the inside was raw and full of blood ; however it was necessary
not to show any repugnance, and to make a cannibal feast,
otherwise my hosts would have been affronted, and I was
anxious to live with them for some days on a good understand
ing. I therefore eat my portion of the stag, which, after
all, was not bad : my Indians did as I had done. Good rela
tions were thus established between us, and treachery was not
then to be expected.

I now found myself in the midst of a tribe of men
whom I had come from Jala-Jala to see, and I set about ex
amining them at my ease, and for as long as I wished. We
fixed our bivouac some steps from theirs, as if we wished to
form part of the family of our new friends. I could not
address them but by signs, and I had the greatest difficulty in
making them understand me, but on the day after my arrival
I had an interpreter. A woman came to me with a child, to
which she wished to give a name ; she had been reared
amongst the Tagalocs; she had spoken that language, of which
she remembered a little, and could give, although with much
difficulty, all the information I desired which was to me of
interest.

The creatures with whom I had thus formed a connection
for a few days, and as I saw them, seemed rather to be a large
family of monkeys than human beings. Their voices very
much resembled the shrill cries of those animals, and in their
gestures they were exactly like them. The only difference
I could see was that they knew how to handle a bow and a
lance, and to make a fire. To describe them properly I shall
give a sketch of their forms and physiognomies.

The Ajeta, or little negro, is as black as ebony, like the

208 TWENTY YEAES IN THE PHILIPPINES.

Africans; his greatest height is four feet and a-half; his
hair is woolly, and as he takes no trouble about cutting it, and
knows not how to arrange it, it forms around his head a sort
of crown, which gives him an odd aspect, and, at a distance
makes him appear as if surrounded with a kind of halo ; his
eye is yellowish, but lively and brilliant, like that of an eagle.
The necessity of living by the chase, and of pursuing his prey,
produces the effect on this organ of giving to it the most extra
ordinary vivacity. The features of the Ajetas have something of
the African black, but the lips are not so prominent ; while young
their forms are pretty ; but their lives being spent in the woods,
sleeping always in the open air without shelter, eating much
one day and often having nothing — long fastings, followed by
repasts swallowed with the voracity of wild beasts — gave them a
protruding stomach, and made their extremities lank and shri
velled. They never wear any clothing, unless a belt of the rind
of a tree, fromeight to ten inches in breadth, which they tie round
their waist ; their arms are composed of a bamboo lance, a bow of
the palm tree, and poisoned arrows. Their food consists of roots,
of fruits, and of the products of the chase ; the flesh they eat
nearly raw ; and they live in tribes composed of from fifty to
sixty individuals. During the day, the old men, the infirm, and
the children, remain near a large fire, while the others are
engaged in hunting ; when they have a sufficiency of food to
last for some days, they remain round their fire, and sleep pell-
mell among the cinders.

It is extremely curious to see collected together fifty or
sixty of these brutes of every age, and each more or less de
formed ; the old women especially are hideous, their decrepid
limbs, their big bellies and their extraordinary heads of hair,
give them all the looks of furies, or of old witches.

I BAP1ISE SOME NATIVE CHILDREN. £09

I had scarcely arrived than women with very young chil
dren came in crowds to me. In order to satisfy them I
caressed their babes : but that was not what they wanted, and,
notwithstanding their gestures and their words, I could not
make out their wishes. On the following day, the woman
whom I have already mentioned as having lived for some time
among the Tagalocs, arrived from a neighbouring tribe, accom
panied by ten other women, each of whom had an infant in her
arms. She explained what I was not able to comprehend on
the previous day, and said : " We have amongst us very few
words for conversation : all our children take at their birth the
name of the place where they are born. There is great con
fusion, then, and we have brought them to you that you may
give them names."

As soon as I understood this explanation, I wished to cele
brate the ceremony with all the pomp that the circumstances
and the place allowed. I went to a small rivulet, and there,
as I knew the formula for applying the baptismal water, I
took my two Indians as sponsors, and during several days
baptised about fifty of these poor children. Each mother
who brought her infant was accompanied by two persons
of her own family. I pronounced the sacramental words,
and poured water on the head of the child, and then announced
aloud the name I had given to the child. Therefore, as they
have no means of perpetuating their recollections, from the
time that I pronounced the name, — Francis, for instance, — the
mother and her accompanying witnesses repeated it very often,
until they learned to say it correctly, and commit it to me
mory. Then they went away, and were constantly repeating
the name, which they were anxious to retain.

The first day the ceremony was rather long ; but the se-

270 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

cund day the number lessened, and I was allowed to pursue
my examination of the character of my hosts. I had retained
the woman who spoke Tagaloc, and in the long conversations
which I held with her, she initiated me thoroughly in all their
customs and usages.

The Ajetas have no religion ; they do not adore any star.
It seems, however, that they have transmitted to, or received
from, the Tinguianes, the practice of adoring, during one day,
a rock or a trunk of any tree on which they find any resem
blance whatever of an animal ; they then abandon it, and think
no more of an idol until they meet with a strange form, which,
for a short time, constitutes the object of their frivolous wor
ship. They have a strong veneration for the dead ; and during
several years it is their practice to visit their graves, and
there to leave a little tobacco or betel. The bow and arrows
which once belonged to the deceased are hung up over his
grave on the day of his interment ; and every night, according
to the belief of his surviving comrades, he rises up out of his
grave, and goes to hunt in the forest.

Interments take place without any ceremony. The dead
body is laid at full length in a grave, which is covered up with
earth. But whenever one of the Ajetas is dangerously ill, and
his recovery despaired of, or that he has been even slightly
wounded by a poisoned arrow, his friends place him seated in
a deep hole, with the arms crossed over his breast, and thus
inter him while living.

I thought of speaking to my interpreter on religion, and
asked her if she did not believe in a Supreme Being — an all-
powerful Divinity, on whom all nature — even we ourselves —
depend in all things ; and who had created the firmament, and
who was looking on at our acts. She looked at me with a

CURIOUS CUSTOM OF THE AJETAS. 271

smile, and said : " When I was young, amongst your brothers,
I remember that they spoke to me of a master, who, as they
said, had Heaven for his dwelling-place ; but all that was lies ;
for see " — (she here took up a small stone and threw it into the
air, saying, in a very serious tone) — " how can a king, as you
say, remain in the sky any more than that stone ?" What
answer could I give to such reasoning? I left religion aside,
to put to her other questions.

I have already stated that the Ajetas did not often wait for /
the death of a person to put him into the ground. As soon as
the last honours are rendered to a deceased, it is requisite,
conformably to their usages, to take revenge for his death.
The hunters of the tribe to which he belonged set out, with
their lances and their arrows, to kill the first living creature
which should appear before their eyes — be it man, stag, wild
boar, or buffalo. From the moment they start in search of a
victim, they take care, in every part of the forest through
which they pass, to break the young shoots of the arbustus
shrub, by pointing its tops in the direction which they are
following. This is done to give a caution to their friends,
and other passers-by, to avoid those places in which they are
searching for a victim, for if one of themselves fell into their
hands, he would, without fail, be taken as the expiatory
victim.

They are faithful in marriage, and have but one wife. /
When a young man has made his choice, his friends or his
parents make a demand for the young girl ; a refusal is never
given. A day is chosen ; and on the morning of that day the
young girl is sent into the forest, where she hides herself or
not, just as she pleases, and according as she wishes to be
married to the young man who has asked her. An hour after

TWENTY TEAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

her departure, the young man is sent to find out his hride. If
he has the good luck to find her, and to bring her hack to her
parents before sunset, the marriage is concluded, and she
becomes his wife without fail ; but if, on the contrary, he
returns to the camp without her, he is not allowed to renew
his addresses.

Among the Ajetas old age is highly respected. It is
always one of the oldest men who governs the assembled body.
All the savages of this race live, as I have stated, in large
families of from sixty to eighty persons. They ramble about
through the forests, without having any fixed spot for their
abode ; and they change their encampment according to the
greater or less quantity of game which they find in various
places.

While thus living in a state of nature altogether primitive,
these savages have no instrument of music, and their language
imitating, as I have stated, the cries of monkeys, has very few
sounds, which are extremely difficult for a stranger to pro
nounce, how much soever may be his eagerness to study them.
They are excellent hunters, and make a wonderful use of the
bow. The young negroes, however little, of each sex, while
their parents are out hunting, amuse themselves on the banks
of the rivulets with their small bows. If by chance they see
any fish in the translucent stream they let fly an arrow at it,
and it is seldom that they miss their aim.

All the weapons of the Ajetas are poisoned ; a simple arrow
could not cause a wound so severe as to stop a strong animal,
such as a deer, in its course ; but if the dart has been smeared
with the poison known to them, the smallest puncture of it
produces in the wounded animal an inextinguishable thirst,
and death ensues upon satisfying it. The hunters then cut

POJSON USED BY THE AJETA8. 273

out the flesh around the wound, and use the remainder as food,
without any danger; but if they neglect this precaution, the
meat becomes so exceedingly bitter that even the Ajetas them
selves cannot eat it.

Never having given credit to the famous loab of Java, 1
made experiments at Sumatra on the sort of poison of which
the Malays make use to poison their weapons. I discovered that
it was simply a strong solution of arsenic in citron juice, with
which they coated their arms several times. I tried to find
the poison used by the Ajetas. They led me to the foot of a
large tree, and tore off a piece of its bark, and told me that
that was the poison they used. I chewed some of it before
them ; it was insupportably bitter, but otherwise not injurious
in its natural state. But the Ajetas make a preparation of it,
the secret of which they refused to impart to me. When their
poison is made up as a paste, they give to their arms a thin
coating of it, about an eighth of an inch in thickness.

The Ajetas in their movements are active and supple to an
incredible degree ; they climb up the highest trees like mon
keys, by seizing the trunk with both hands, and using the
soles of their feet. They run like a deer in the pursuit of
the wild animals : this is their favourite occupation. It is a
very curious sight to see these savages set out on a hunting
excursion; men, women, and children move together, very
much like a troop of ourang-outangs when going on a plunder
ing party. They have always with them one or two little dogs,
of a very special breed, which they employ in tracking out
their prey whenever it is wounded.

I enjoyed quite at my ease the hospitality exercised
towards me by these primitive men. I saw amongst them, and
with my own eyes, all that I was desirous of knowing. The

274 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

painful life which I had led since my departure from home,
without any shelter but the trees, and eating nothing but what
the savages provided, began to tire me exceedingly : I resolved
to return to Jala-Jala. Having previously noticed several graves
at a short distance from our bivouac, an idea struck me of
carrying away a skeleton of one of the savages, which would,
in my judgment, be a curiosity to present to the Jardin des
Plautes or to the Museum of Anatomy at Paris. The under
taking was one of great danger, on account of the veneration
of the Ajetas for their dead. They might surprise us while
violating their graves, and then no quarter was to be expected.
I was, however, so much accustomed to overcome whatever
opposed my will, that the danger did not deter me from acting
upon my resolution. I communicated my intentions to my
Indians, who did not oppose my project.

Some few days afterwards we packed up our baggage, and
took farewell of our hosts. We shaped our course towards the
Indian cemetery. In the first graves which we opened we
found the bones decayed in part, and I could only procure two
skulls, which were not worth the danger to which they exposed
us. However, we continued our researches, and towards the
close of the day discovered the remains of a woman, who, from
the position of the body in the grave, must have been buried
before her death. The bones were still covered with skin ; but
the body was dry, and almost like a mummy. This was a
fit subject. We had taken the body out of the grave, and
were beginning to pack it up piece by piece into a sack,
when we heard small shrill cries at a distance. The Ajetas
were coming upon us, and there was no time to be lost.
We seized our prize and started off as quick as possible. We
had not got a hundred yards, when we heard the arrows

WE CARRY AWAY THE SKELETON OF AN AJLTAS. 275

whistling about our ears. The Ajetas, perched on the tops of
the trees, waited for us and attacked us, without our having
any means of defence. Fortunately night came to our aid;
their arrows, usually so sure, were badly directed, and did not
touch us. While escaping we fired a gun to frighten them,
and were soon able to leave them far behind, without having
received any other injury than the alarm, and a sufficient
notice of the danger to be encountered in disturbing the
repose of their dead. On emerging from the wood, some
drops of blood caused me to remark a slight scratch on the
forefinger of my right hand; I attributed this to the hurry
of my flight, and did not trouble myself much about it,
was my practice with trifles, but continued my march towards
the sea-shore.

We still retained the skeleton, which we laid on the sandy
beach, as well as our haversacks and guns, and sat down to
rest after the fatigue of the journey. My companions then
began to make reflections on our position, and my lieutenant,
inspired by his affection for me, and his sense of the danger
we were exposed to, addressed me in the following strain :

"Oh, master ! what have we done, and what is to become
of us ? To-morrow morning the enraged Ajetas will come to
attack us for the execrable booty which we have carried off
from them at the risk of our lives. If they would attack in
the open ground, with our guns we might defend ourselves ;
but what can one do against those animals, perched here and
there like monkeys in the top branches of the trees of their
forest? Those places are for them so many fortresses, from
which they will to-morrow shower down upon us those darts,
which, alas ! never fail to do mischief. Luckily it was night
when they attacked us just now, for otherwise we at this hour

276 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

should have a lance through each of our bodies, and then they
would have cut off our heads to serve as trophies for a superb
fete. Your head, master, would first have been laid on the
ground, and the brutes would have danced round it, and, as our
leader, you would have been a target of honour for them to
practise upon.

"And now, master, all that which would have occurred to us
if the night had not favoured our escape is but deferred, for,
alas! we cannot remain continually on this beach, although it
is the only spot where \ve can protect ourselves against these
black rascals. We must go to our homes, and this we cannot
do. without passing through the woods inhabited by these
abominable creatures, who made us eat raw meat, and seasoned
only with cinders. Well, master, before you undertook this
excursion, you ought to have recollected all that happened
to us among the Tinguians and the Igorrots."

I listened calmly to this touching lamentation of my lieu
tenant, who was perfectly right in all he said ; but when he
finished I sought to rouse his courage, and replied :

"What! my brave Alila ! are you afraid? I thought the
Tic-balan, and the evil spirits could alone affect your courage.
Do you want to make me think that men like yourself, without
any arms but bad arrows, are enough to make you quake?
Come, enough of this cowardice ; to-morrow we shall have
daylight, and we shall see what is to be done. In the mean
time let us search for shell-fish, for I am very hungry, notwith
standing the alarm into which you are trying to throw me."

This little sermon gave courage to Alila, who immediately
set about making a fire, and then, by the aid of lighted bam
boos, he and his comrade went to the rocks to find out the
shell-fish.

A FORTUNATE DISCOVERY. 277

Alila was nevertheless quite right, and I myself could not
disguise the fact, that good luck alone could extricate us from
the critical position in which we were placed by my fault, in
having thought of my country, and in wishing to ornament the
Museum of Paris with a skeleton of an Ajetas.*

From disposition and habit I was not a man to alarm my
self with any danger which was not immediate ; yet I avow
that the last words I had said to Alila : — " To-morrow we shall
have daylight, and we shall see what is to be done : " — came
back to my mind, and for a short time occupied my thoughts.

My Indians brought back a large quantity of shell-fish,
sufficient for our supper, and Alila ran up quite breathless,
saying :

" Master, I have made a discovery ! A hundred steps
from this I have found a canoe, which the sea has cast
upon the -beach; it is large enough to hold us three. We
can make use of it to get to Biriangonan, and there we shall
be safe from the poisoned arrows of these dogs the Ajetas."

This discovery was either that Providence had come to our
aid, or it was a complication of dangers greater than those
reserved to us on land on awaking in the morning.

I went instantly to the spot where Alila had made his im
portant discovery, and having disencumbered the canoe from
the sand with which it was partly covered, I soon became certain
that, with some bamboos, and by stopping a few cracks, it would
be staunch enough to take us over the Pacific ocean, away from
the Ajetas.

"Well," said I to Alila, "you see I was right, and you
must admit the hand of Providence is here. Is it not evident

* The skeleton is now in the Musee Anatomique of Paris.

278 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

that this fine boat, built, perhaps, several thousand leagues
from this, has arrived express from the Polynesian islands to
carry us away from the claws of the savages."

" True, master, true ; it is our luck. To-morrow they will
finely be taken in on not finding us here ; but let us set to
work, for we have much to do before this fine boat, as you call
it, will be in a fit state for going through the water."

We immediately made a large fire 011 the shore, and went
into the woods to cut down bamboos and rattans ; then we set
to work to stop the holes, which decreased fast enough under
our handy-work upon the abandoned canoe.

Persons who have never travelled amongst the savages can
not imagine how, without having been instructed in the arts,
and without nails, one could stop up the fissures in such a
boat, and put it in a state fit for sea. Yet the means were
rery simple; our poignards, bamboos, and rattans supplied
everything ; by scraping a bamboo we obtained from it some
thing like tow, which we put into the chinks, so that the water
could not enter. If it was necessary to stop any breach a few
inches in width, we took from the bamboo a little plank, some
what larger than the opening we wished to close, and then
with the point of the poignard we pierced it all round with
little holes, to match those which were made in the same
manner in the boat itself. Afterwards, with long strings of
the rattan, which we split up and made fine, we sewed the
little plank to the boat, just as one would a piece of cloth on a
coat ; we covered the sewing with the elemi gum, and were sure
the water could not pass through. The rattan served instead
of hemp, and supplied all our necessities on the occasion.

We worked with ardour at this our new and only means
of safety. Once caulked, we placed in it two large bamboos as

WE EMBARK IN DUE CANOE. ii

beams, for without those beams we could not have sailed for ten
minutes without being upset. Another bamboo served as our
mast ; the large sack of matting that contained our skeleton
was transformed into a sail. At last, before the night was far
advanced, every preparation was finished. The wind was
favourable, and we hastened to try our boat, and to struggle
with new difficulties.

We placed in the canoe our arms and* the skeleton, the
cause of our new troubles ; we then pushed the boat over
the sand and got it afloat. It took us a good half-hour to
get clear of the breakers. We were every moment in danger
of being swamped by the large waves, which rolled on, dashing
against the rocks that bound the shore. At last, after we
had overcome a thousand difficulties and dangers, we reached
the open sea, and the regular wave — a real movable mountain
— lifted up, without any sudden shock, our frail boat almost
to the skies, and then in the same quiet manner let it sink
into an abyss, from which it was again raised to the top of a
liquid mountain. These large waves, which follow each
other usually from interval to interval very regularly, cause
no danger to a good pilot, who takes the precaution of turn
ing the prow of his boat so as to meet them. But woe to
him if he forgets himself, and makes a false manoeuvre, he
is then sure to be upset and wrecked. Being used to the
management of canoes, and, more confident in my own
vigilance when at sea than in that of my Indians, I took the
helm. The wind was favourable ; we set up our little sail, and
went very fast, although every moment I was obliged to turn
the prow to the heavy waves. We were already a sufficient
distance from the shore not to fear, if the wind changed, that
we should be 'driven in among the breakers. Everything led

280 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

us to expect a safe voyage, when unfortunately my poor Indians
were taken ill. They had never sailed before except on the
lakes of fresh water, and were now attacked with sea-sick
ness. This was vexatious to me, for I knew from experience
that a person so attacked for the first time is altogether in
capable of rendering any service, and even of protecting himself
against the smallest danger that threatens him. I had no one
to aid me in managing the boat, and was obliged to rely on
my own exertions. I told him who held the sheet of the sail
to hand it to me, and I twisted it round my foot, for both my
hands were engaged in holding the paddle which was our helm.
My Indians, like two inanimate bodies, lay at the bottom of
the boat.

When I reflect on my position, — on the ocean, in a frail
boat; having only for helps two individuals who conld not
move, two skulls, and a skeleton of an Ajetas, — 1 cannot
help thinking that the reader may imagine that I have
concocted a story for his amusement. However, I relate
facts exactly as they occurred, and I leave all at liberty to
believe as they please.

I was, as it were, alone in my frail boat, struggling continually
with the large waves, which obliged me every moment to deviate
from the course. I longed for daylight, for I hoped to be able
to discern the beach of Binaugonan de Lampon, as a place of
refuge, where I should find the frank hospitality and the valu-
able assistance of my old friends.

At last the long-wished-for sun arose above, the horizon, and
I saw that we were about three leagues from the coast. I had
gone far too much out to sea, and had passed Binangonan a
long way. It was not possible to steer back, the wind would
not allow it ; so I decided on pursuing the same course, and on

WE ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF MAOBAN. 281

doing my best to reach, before night, Maoban, a large Tagaloc
village, situate on the coast of Luzon, and which is separated
by a small ridge of mountains from the lake of Bay. The first
rays of the sun and a little calm restored my Indians to a
state of being able to render me some service. We passed
the day without eating or drinking, and we had the regret of
seeing that we had not attained our purpose. Our position
was most distressing : a storm might riser the wind might
blow with force, and our only resource then would be to throw
ourselves into the breakers, and to reach the shore as well as
we could. But luckily nothing of the kind took place ; and
about midnight we knew, from meeting a small island, that we
were in front of the village of Maoban. I steered to it, and
in a short time we arrived in a calm quiet bay, near a sandy
shore. The fatigue and want of food had thoroughly exhausted
my strength. I had no sooner landed than I threw myself on the
ground, and fell into a deep sleep, which lasted until day. When
I awoke I found the sun's rays were shining full upon me :
it was near seven o'clock. On any other occasion I should
have been ashamed of my laziness, but could I feel dissatisfied
with myself for sleeping soundly after thirty-six hours' fasting,
and spent in such extraordinary exertions. During my sleep
one of my Indians went into the village in search of provisions,
and I found excellent rice and salt fish near me. We made a
delicious and splendid breakfast. My Indians, on behalf of
the inhabitants, asked me to go to the village, and spend the
day, but I was too eager to reach home. I knew by walking
quickly we could get through the mountains, and arrive at night
on the banks of the lake, within a few hours' journey from my
house. I determined to start without any delay. We took our
things out of the boat ; the little sail retook its former shape,

282 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

as a sack, to hold the skulls and the skeleton, the cause of
all the disasters to -which we had been exposed, and, with re
united strength, and abundant provisions for the day, we began
to mount the high hills which separate the gulf of Maoban from
the lake of Bay. The journey was laborious and painful. At
seven o'clock we embarked on the lake, and towards mid
night we reached Jala-Jala, where I very speedily forgot all
the toil and trouble of my long and dangerous journey, while
pressing my son in my arms and covering him with paternal
kisses.

My excellent friend Vidie, to whom I sold my house and
establishment, gave me letters which he had received from
Manilla, and from them I learned that my presence was desired
there on affairs of importance. I resolved to start on the follow
ing day.

View of Manilla from the Environs.

CHAPTEE XIII

I Determine not again to Separate from my Son — I take him to Manilla — The Effects
of the Wound I received among the Ajetas — My Recovery — Kindness of the
Spanish and other Inhabitants of Manilla — Illness of my Son— I return with
him to Jala-Jala—Sorrowful Remembrances — The Death of my poor Boy—
His Interment — My frantic Grief and Despair — I Determine to Quit the
Philippines — I am Called to Manilla by Madame Dolores Seneris — My Final
Departure from Jala-Jala — I Arrive at Manilla, where I resume Practice as a
Surgeon — I Embark for France — Discontent — My Travels through Europe —
I Marry again — Death of my Mother and my Second Wife — Conclusion.

TJAVING now concluded my last trip into the interior of the
Philippines, I was desirous of not separating myself again
from my son, the only being that remained to me of all those
whom I had loved so tenderly. I took him with me to Manilla ;
but I did not altogether bid farewell to Jala-Jala, yet I had
almost the intention of never going back to it.

The journey was as agreeable as my melancholy recollections

2 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

would permit. I experienced such pleasure in holding my boy
in my arms, and in receiving his gentle caresses, that I
occasionally forgot every sorrow.

I arrived at Manilla, and took up my quarters in the envi
rons, at the abode of Baptiste Vidie, brother of the friend
\\hom I had left at Jala- Jala.

After my escape from the Ajetas, I had noticed a small
wound on the forefinger of my right hand, which I attributed
to having been accidentally scratched by a branch or a thorn,
while we were endeavouring to make our escape with such
precipitation from the arrows which the savages let fly at
us. The first night I spent at Manilla, I felt in the place
where the wound was such extreme pain that I fell down
twice totally senseless. The agony increased every instant,
and became so violent that I could no longer doubt that it
was caused by the poison of an arrow, shot at me by the
Ajetas. I sent for one of my confreres, and after a most
careful examination, he made a large incision, which did not,
however, afford me any relief: the hand, on the contrary,
festered up. By little and . little the inflammation extended
itself up my arm, and I was soon in an alarming state.

In short, after suffering during a whole month, and after
the most cruel incertitude, it seemed that the poison had passed
into my breast. I could not sleep for an instant ; and, in spite
of. me, dead and painful cries came forth from my breast,
which was on fire. My eyes were veiled — I could not see ; a
burning sweat covered my face ; my blood was on fire, and did
not circulate in my veins ; my life seemed about to become
extinct. The medical men declared that I could not pass
through the night. According to the usages of the country,
I was told that I ought to regulate my affairs for death. I

THE EFFECTS OF MY POISONED WOUND. 285

asked that the consul-general of France, my excellent friend
Adolphe Barrot, should be sent for.

Adolphe I knew to be a man of true heart and affection,
and to him I recommended my poor boy. He promised to
take care of him as if he were his own son, to take him to
France, and to give him over to my family.

Lastly a good Dominican friar came, and with him I had
several long conferences, and after he had dispensed to me the
consolations of his ministry, he gave me extreme unction.
Everything was done according to the customary form, and
nothing was wanting but my death.

However, amidst all these preparations, I alone was not so
eager; and, although in excessive anguish, I preserved my
presence of mind, and declared J should not die. Was it
courage ? Was it great confidence in my strength and robust
health, which made me believe in my recovery? Was it a
presentiment, or was it an inward voice which told me : " The
doctors are wrong, and how great will be their surprise to
morrow on finding me better ? " In short. I did not wish to die ;
for, according to my system, my will ought to stop the order of
nature, and to make me survive all imaginable pain.

The following day I was better: the doctors found my
pulse regular, and without any intermitting symptom. Some
days afterwards the poison passed out to my skin : my whole
body was covered with a miliary eruption, and thenceforth I
was safe. My recovery was very gradual, and for more than a
year I felt acute pains in my breast.

During the course of my illness I received the kindest
attention from my fellow-countrymen, arid in general from all
the Spanish inhabitants of Manilla ; and here I ought to state,
to the praise of the latter class, that during twenty years spent

286 TWENTY YEAES IN THE PHILIPPINES.

in the Philippines, I always found amongst those with whom
I had dealings, a great nobleness of soul and a devotednessfree
from egotism. I shall never forget the kindnesses T received
from this noble race, for which I entertain feelings of the
warmest gratitude. To me, every Spaniard is a brother; and
to him I shall always be happy to prove that his countrymen
have not conferred obligations on an ungrateful character. I
hope the roader will pardon me for having quitted my subject
for a short time to fulfil the duty of gratitude ; but are they
not my recollections which I am detailing ? *

* Gratitude here requires that I should name some of those to whom I
am specially indebted for marks of affection and kindness. It would be
indeed ungrateful on my part to forget them, and I beg them to accept this
proof of my recollections.

The Governors of the Philippines to whom I owe these remembrances
are : — Generals Martin&s, Ricafort, Torres Enrile, Camba, and Salazar ; in
the various administrations of the colony, the Judges (Oidores) Don Inigo
Asaola, Otin-i Doazo, Don Matias Mier, Don Jacobo Varela, administrator-
general of the liquors ; Don Jose de la Euente, commissary of the engi
neers, who icndered me innumerable kindnesses; Colonel Don Thomas dc
Murieta, corregidor of Tondoc ; the colonel of engineers, Don Mariano
Goicochea; the Colonel- Commandant Lante Romana; the Governor of
the province, Don Jose Atienza ; the brothers Ramos, sons of the judge ;
all the family Calderon ; that of Seneris ; Don Balthazar Mier, Don Jose
Ascaraga ; and lastly my friend, Don Domingo Rcxas, whose son, Don
Mariano Roxas, after having received a solid and brilliant education at
Manilla, came to travel in Europe. He has acquired the most extensive
information in the sciences and arts, and when he shall have returned to
the Philippine Islands, he will most worthily replace his dignified father,
\vhom a premature death has snatched away from the industry, the agri
culture, and the advancement of his country. If gratitude has induced me
to mention here the Spaniards from whom I experienced many acts of
kindness, the same feeling compels me to allude to an English gentleman
to whom I was indebted for one of those important services which are
never to be forgotten. I allude to Mr. Thomas Dent, with whom I have
frequently conversed upon our hunting parties at Jala-Jala, in which he
was occasionally one of the principal actors.

ILLNESS OF MY SON. 287

The wish to undertake, together with my boy, the voyage
which would restore me to my country ; the hope of seeing
my kind good mother, my sisters, and all the friends whom I
had left behind, reconciled me somewhat to existence, and
made me experience a little happiness. I was awaiting with
impatience the time for embarking ; but, alas ! my mission was
not yet terminated in the Philippines, and a new catastrophe,
quickly opened afresh all my sorrows.

I was scarcely recovered, when my dear boy — my sole de
light the last beloved being that remained to me on this earth, so
fruitful in joys, and still so destructive of them— my poor
Henry fell suddenly ill, and his disease made the most rapid
progress. My friends immediately foreboded that a great mis •
fortune would befall me. I alone did not know the state in
which my child really was. I loved him with such an ardent
passion, that I believed it impossible that Providence would
deprive me of him. My medical attendant, or rather my
friend, Genu, advised me to take him to Jala-Jala, where his
native air and the country, as he said, would without doubt
promote his recovery. I liked the advice, for so many persons
had recovered their health at Jala-Jala that I hoped for my
child a similar good result. I set out with him and his
governess ; the voyage was one of sadness, for I saw my poor
boy continually suffering, without being able to afford him any
relief.

On our arrival Vidie came to receive us, and in a few
moments I occupied, with my Henry, the room which bi ought
to my remembrance two very sorrowful losses — the death of
my little daughter and that of my beloved Anna. It was, more
over, in that very room my Henry was born, — a cruel association
of the happiest moments of my existence with that when T was

288 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES

bewailing the state of my beloved bo}T. Nevertheless, I did not
altogether despair, for I had hopes in my art and experience.
T seated myself by his bedside, and did not leave him for a
moment. I slept close to him, and I passed every day in
administering the medicine and all the comforts in my power,
but without any good result, or any relief fotf his sufferings. I
lost all hope, and on the ninth day after our arrival the dear
boy expired in my arms.

It is not possible for me to give an account of my feelings
on this last trial. My heart was broken, my head on fire ! I
became mad, and never did despair take such a hold on me.
I listened to nothing but my sorrow ; and force became neces
sary to tear from my arms the mortal remains of my child.

On the following day he was laid close to his mother, and
another tomb was erected in the church of Jala- Jala.

In vain did my friend Vidie endeavour to afford me con
solation, or to change the current of my affliction. Several times
he tried to remove me from the fatal room, which I now
looked upon as a scene of misfortunes, but he could not
succeed. I hoped at the time — and I also thought that I too
had a right— to die there, where my wife and my son had
breathed their last sighs. My tears refused to flow, and even
words failed me to express the full extent of my grief. An
ardent fever, which devoured me, was far too slow for the
eagerness of my wishes. In a moment of bewilderment, I was
near committing the greatest act of cowardice which man can
perpetrate against his Creator. I double-locked the door;
I seized the poignard which I had so often used to protect
my life, and pointed it against myself. I was already choosing
the spot in which I should strike, in order by one blow to
terminate my miserable existence. My arm, strengthened

MY THOUGHTS IN MY DELIRIUM. 289

by delirium, was about to smite my breast, when one sudden
thought came to prevent me from consummating the crime which
has no pardon — although the crime of despair. My mother, my
poor mother, whom I had so much loved, my good mother pre
sented herself to my mind, and said to me : " Thou wouldst
abandon me — I shall see thee no more !" I recollected then
the words of Anna : " Go, and see thy mother again !'' This
thought changed my resolution completely. I threw the po
niard aside with horror, and fell on my bed quite exhausted.
My eyes, which during many days had been dry and burning,
were once again overflowing with tears, which removed the
heavy weight from my lacerated heart.

The force of mind of which I stood so much in need was
awakened again within me : I no longer thought of death, but
of fulfilling my rigorous destiny. Calmed and relieved already
by the abundant flow of tears, I gave myself wholly up to the
idea of embracing my mother and my sisters. Then I wished
to add the following pages to my journal. My head was not tho
roughly right. I shall translate what I then wrote in Spanish,
which was my adopted and familiar language, in preference even
to French, which I had scarcely spoken during twenty years :—

" How have I strength to take this pen ? My poor boy ! —
my son ! — my beloved Henry ! — is no more : his soul has flown to
his Creator ! Oh, God ! pardon this complaint in my distress.
What have I done to be thus cruelly afflicted? My boy ! —
my dear son ! — my only hope ! — my last happiness ! — I shall
never again see thee ! Formerly I was happy ; I had my good
Anna and my dear child ; but cruel fate soon tore my com
panion from me. My trouble was indeed great, and my afflic
tion was profound ; but thou wast still with me, Oh, my child !
and all my affections were concentrated in thee. With thy

N

290 'TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

caresses thou didst dry my tears ; thy smile was like that of
thy mother, and thy heautiful features reminded me of her,
and in thee I found her again. But to-day, alas ! I have lost
you both. What a void ! Oh, God ! what a solitude ! Ofa ! I
ought to die in this room which is the depository of all my
misfortunes. Here I bewailed my poor brother ; here I closed
the eyes of my daughter ; here, also, Anna, when dying, bade
me, bathed in tears, her last adieus ; and here at last, thou,
my son, they tore thee from my arms, to lay thee near the ashes
df thy mother.

"So many afflictions and so many troubles for one man !
Oh, God of goodness and mercy, will you not restore to me
my poor child ? Alas ! I scarcely feel that I am mistaken :
but He will pity my bewilderment — he who has been beloved
and who has seen carried off, one by one, all the elements of
his happiness. As for me, an isolated being, and henceforward
useless on this earth, it matters little where I shall sink under
the weight of my afflictions. If it was not from the hope of
seeing my mother and sisters, I should terminate my wretched
existence, my grave should be with you — you all ! — whom I
loved so much. I should remain near you, and during the
rest of my miserable existence I should every day visit your
tombs ! But no ; a sacred duty obliges me to leave you, and
to separate for ever from you. Cruel ! Oh, cruel indeed will be
the hour when I shall depart from you. And thou my beloved,
my good, excellent wife, my Anna, thy last words shall be
accomplished. I will set out, but regret and grief accom
pany me during the voyage ; my heart and my memory will
remain at Jala-Jala. Oh ! land bedewed with my sweat, with
my blood, and with my tears ! when fate brought me to thy
shores thou wast covered with dismal forests which this day

KIND SYMPATHY OF MY FRIEND YIDIE. £91

have given place to rich harvests : among thy inhabitants order,
abundance, and prosperity have taken the place of debauchery
and misery. My efforts were crowned with full success ; all
was prosperity around me. Alas ! I was too happy ! But
while misfortune strikes me down and overwhelms me, it will
have stricken me alone, my work will outlive me. You will be
happy, Oh, my friends ! and if I myself have been so in con
tributing to your welfare, let a thought sometimes awaken your
feelings towards him to whom you often gave the name of
' Father ;' and if you preserve gratitude towards him, Oh, take a
religious care of the tombs, trebly dear to him, which he now
intrusts to you."

My readers will pardon this melancholy and long lamenta
tion ; they will understand it if they examine with care my
position. Separated from my country by five thousand five
hundred leagues, the stroke of fate which laid all my cherished
hopes in the dust was the more acutely felt as it was unexpected.
I had no relatives in the Philippines ; in France alone I might
yet find some affections ; and, at the moment of quitting Jala-
Jala for ever, the idea of parting with my Indians — attached,
devoted, as they were to me — was an additional grief to the
many which overpowered me. Thus I could not resolve to
acquaint them beforehand of this separation. I remained in
my room, without quitting it even at meal times. My friend
Vidie did everything possible to prepare me for these adieus,
and to console me. He pressed me to start speedily for
Manilla, and to make arrangements for my departure; but an
irresistible force retained me at Jala-Jala. I was weak ; my
heart was so crushed by sorrows that I had no courage to
adopt any resolutions. I put it off from day to day, and from
day to day I was more undecided. An unexpected occasion

TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

was necessary in order to conquer my apathy ; it was requisite
also to triumph over me by sentiments of gratitude — senti
ments which I could never resist.

On this occasion the motive which decided my departure
was furnished by Providence. I had a friend in Manilla, a
lady of angelic goodness, gentleness, and devotedness. United
from the period of my arrival in the most intimate manner
with all her family, I had known her as a child, and after
wards married to a highly honourable man, of whom when
she was subsequently bereaved, I afforded her all the consola
tions which the sincerest friendship could offer. She was a
witness of the happiness which I enjoyed with my dear Anna,
and, hearing that I was unhappy, she did not hesitate to under
take a long journey, and in her turn to come and take a part
in my troubles. The excellent Dolores Seneris arrived one
morning at Jala-Jala ; she threw herself into my arms, and
for some moments tears alone were the interpreters of our
thoughts. When we recovered from our first emotions, she
told me that she had come to take me away, and she herself
made the preparations for my departure. I was too grateful
for this proof of the friendship of the good Dolores not to
acquiesce in her wishes, and it was decided that on the follow
ing day I should quit Jala-Jala for ever.

The report was soon spread among my Indians. They all
came to bid me farewell : they wept, and they said to me :

" Oh, master, do not deprive us of all hope of seeing you
again. Go, and receive consolation from your mother, and then
return to your children." That day was filled with most dis
tressing feelings.

The day following was Sunday. I went to say adieu to
the remains of those whom I had loved even in their tombs.

MY FINAL DEPARTURE FROM JALA-JALA. 293

I heard for the last time the divine service in the modest
little church which I had erected, and in which for a long
time, surrounded by my dearest friends, I was happy to as
semble, on the same day of the week, the small congregation
of Jala-Jala.

After the service I proceeded to the beach, where the boat
was waiting, which was to take me to Manilla. There — sur
rounded by my Indians, the good parish priest, Padre Miguel,
and my friend Vidie — I bade adieu to them all for the last time.
Dolores and I got into the boat, which was scarcely pushed
off from the shore when every arm was stretched out towards
me, and everyone exclaimed : — " May your voyage be happy,
master ! And, oh ! return soon ! "

One of the oldest Indians made a sign for silence, and
then in a loud voice uttered these solemn words : — " Brothers,
let us weep and pray, for the sun is obscured to us; the
star which is going has shed light on our best days, and
now for the future, being deprived of that light, we cannot tell
how long will last the night in which we are plunged by the
misfortune of his departure."

This exhortation of the old Indian were the last words that
reached us : the boat moved away as I, for the last time, fixed
my eyes on the beloved land which I was never again to behold.

We reached Manilla late : it was one of those enchanting
nights, which I have described in the happy period of my
voyages. Dolores insisted that I should not lodge in any
house but hers. Before she set out her careful friendship
had provided for everything. I was surrounded by all those
little attentions of which woman alone has the secret, and
which she knows how to confer with such grace on him who
is the object for whom they are designed.

294 TWENTY YEAKS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

My windows looked on the pretty river Pasig. I there
passed whole days in looking at thb graceful Indian canoes
gliding over the water, and receiving the visits of my friends,
who carne with eagerness to endeavour to divert my thoughts,
and to afford sources of pleasing conversation.

When I was alone I sought to dispel my melancholy by
thinking of my voyage ; on the happiness I should experience
on seeing again my poor mother and sisters, a brother-in-law
whom I did not know, and nieces born during my absence.

The obligation of returning the visits I received, and the
re-establishment of my health, allowed me at length to enter
into affairs connected with my departure.

My friend Adolphe Barrot, consul-general of France, was
every day in expectation of intelligence from his government,
with orders for his return home. He proposed to me to wait for
him, so that we might make the voyage together. I accepted
the proposal with pleasure, and we decided amongst ourselves
that, for our return, we should take the route of India, of the
Red Sea, and of Egypt.

While I stayed at Manilla I did not wish to be idle. The
Spaniards reminded me that at a former epoch I had carried
on the art of medicine, and with great success. I soon had
patients from all quarters of the island, and I resumed my
old profession, and gave advice. But what difference between
this time and that of my debut. Then I was young, full of
strength and of hope ; then I indulged in the illusions usual to
youth ; a long future of happiness presented itself to my ima
gination. Now, overwhelmed by the weight of troubles and of
the laborious works I had executed, there was only one wish
to excite me, and that was, to see France again ; and yet my
recollections took me continually back to Jala- Jala. Poor little

I RESUME PRACTICE AT MANILLA. 295

corner of the globe, which I civilised ! where my best years
were spent in a life of labour, of emotions, of happiness, and of
bitterness ! Poor Indians ! who loved me so much ! I was
never to see you again ! We were soon to be separated by the
immensity of the ocean.

Eeflections and recollections beyond number thus occupied
my mind. But, alas ! it is vain to struggle against one's destiny;
and Providence, in its impenetrable views, was reserving me for
rude trials and fresh misfortunes.

Having again become a doctor at Manilla, where I had
such difficulty at my commencement, I visited patients from
morning until night. To Dolores and to her sister Trinidad
I was indebted for the most touching and most delicate atten
tions, calculated to heal the wounds which were still bleeding in
the bottom of my heart. I frequently saw the two sisters of
my poor wife, Joaquina and Mariquita, as well as my young
niece, the daughter of excellent Josephine, for whom I had
entertained so warm a friendship, and who so soon followed
my darling Anna to the grave. By little and little I was
forming new ties of affection, which I was soon to break, and
never afterwards to renew. I could not forget Jala-Jala, and
my recollections never quitted that place where were deposited
the remains of those whom of all the world I had most loved.
My eager wishes induced me to hope that my work of coloni
sation should continue, and that my friend Vidie should find
some compensation for the rough task he had undertaken. At
this period, even while I remained in Manilla, a great misfor
tune was nearly the cause of throwing Jala-Jala back into its
former state of barbarism. The bandits, who always respected
the place while I was in possession of it, came one night to
attack it, and made themselves masters of the house in which

296 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

Vidie had shut himself up, and defended until he was forced
to escape out of a window, and to run and hide in the woods,
leaving his daughter, then very young, to the care of an Indian
nurse. The handits pillaged and shattered everything in the
house ; wounded his daughter by a sabre-cut, of which to this
day she bears the marks ; and then went off with the plunder
they had made. But Jala- Jala had become too important a
point to be neglected ; and the Spanish government sent
troops to it, to protect Vidie, and to maintain order.

At last, Adolphe Barrot received from the French govern
ment the long awaited instructions to return home ; all my
preparations were made for setting out. It was in 1839 :
twenty years had passed over since I left my country, which I
was now about to return to with satisfaction. For a long time I
had received no news from my mother, and the pleasure which
I anticipated from seeing her was troubled by the dread of
having new sorrows to experience on my arrival. My mother
was then very old ; her life had been passed in long tribulations,
and in complete sacrifice of self. The numerous moral troubles
which she had gone through must have affected her state of
health. Besides, I had been so unfortunate : fate seemed to
have so roughly treated all my affections, that I could not
refrain from thinking that I should never again see her for
whom I abandoned my much loved country. The day for
sailing came ; yet it was not without a heartfelt grief that I
tore myself away from my friends, and bade adieu to the
Philippines.

Here ought to terminate the account which I proposed :
yet I cannot refrain from dedicating a few lines to my return
to my native land.

MY TRAVELS ON MY WAY TO FRANCE. 297

On board various vessels I passed the coasts of India, the
Persian Gulf, and the Red Sea.

After having often admired the grand works of nature, I
felt a strong desire to see the gigantic works executed by the
hand of man.

I went to Thebes, and there visited in detail its palaces,
its tombs, and its monolithes. I descended the Nile, stopping
at every place which contained any monuments worthy of my
curiosity. I ascended one of the Pyramids. I passed several
days in Cairo, and set out for Alexandria, where I embarked
anew, to pass over the small space of sea which separated me
from Europe.

I have sometimes wished to compare the grandest of
human productions with the works of the Creator; the com
parison is by no means favourable to the former, for all those
useless ornaments are nothing but lasting proofs of pride, and
of the fanaticism of a few men, who were obeyed by a people
in slavery. I also saw all that remained of the traces of
destruction committed by two of the greatest conquerors of the
world : the first was but a haughty despot, causing cohorts of
slaves to act as he pleased, and carrying the sword and de
struction amongst peaceful people, to profane their tombs, to
follow up useless conquests, — history afterwards shows him
dying of an orgie ; and the other, alas ! was enchained to a
rock.

From the summit of one of the Pyramids, in religious
abstraction, I had contemplated the majestic Nile, which
glides serpent-like through a vast plain, bordered by the Desert
and arid mountains. Looking, then, below me, I could with
difficulty descry some of my travelling companions, who were
gazing at the Sphynx, and who appeared like little spots on

898 TWENTY YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

the sand. And I then exclaimed : " It is not these useless
monuments that we ought to admire, but rather this magnifi
cent liver, which, in obedience to the laws of all-powerful
wisdom, overflows every year, at a fixed period, its limits, and
spreads itself, like a vast sea, to water and to vivify these im
mense plains, which are afterwards covered with rich harvests.
If this immutable and beneficent order of nature did not en
dure, all these fertile districts would be but a desert waste,
where no living creature could exist."

These reflections took their origin, without doubt, from my
having spent almost all my life amidst those grand creations
of Nature, from which man continually derives sentiments that
elevate him to the Supreme Being. I had studied that Nature
— in all her details, her beneficence, and her magnificence—too
attentively to allow the productions of man's genius to make
upon me the impression which I thought might be expected,
when I first formed a wish to see the monuments of Egypt ;
and, while sailing for Europe, I already anticipated the feeling,
that a short sojourn in the midst of civilisation would cause
me to regret my ancient freedom, my mountains, and my soli
tudes in the Philippine Islands.

On arrival at Malta I was for eighteen days locked up in
Fort Manuel, and then passed the quarantine. I there re
ceived news of my family. My mother and sisters wrote to
me that they were in the enjoyment of excellent health, and
were awaiting with impatience my coming to them. After the
quarantine was over, I stopped nearly a week in the city,
while waiting for a steamer that was going to France. I
embraced the opportunity of seeing every curiosity in the
island. I then resumed my voyage to my native land, and
the following week I recognised the arid rocks of Pro-

v^ «i

I AT LAST KEACH FRANCE.

.'j^r

vence and France, from -which I had been absent for twen

V\ o J
/

In a few days I reached Nantes, where for some time I
enjoyed, in every respect, all the happiness which one feels
when with those beloved beings from whom one had been long
severed, and who formed the last living ties of affection for an
unhappy being who had been severely tried by a capricious
destiny. But the want of excitement in which I lived soon
became irksome ; my life had been too active, so that the
sudden transition could not fail to prove injurious to my health,
and the idea of submitting during the remainder of my exist
ence to a life sterile and monotonous became intolerable.
Not knowing how to employ myself, I resolved to travel
through Europe, and to study the civilised world, which was
then so strange to me. I travelled through France, England,
Belgium, Spain, and Italy, and returned to my family, without
being able to discover anything that could induce me to forget
my Indians, Jala-Jala, and my solitary excursions in the
virgin forests. The society of men reared in extreme civilisa
tion could not efface from my memory my past modest life.
Notwithstanding all my efforts, I retained in my heart a fund
of sadness, which it was not possible to conceal. My kind-
hearted mother, who with deep regret observed my repugnance
to establish myself in any part of the country, and who enter
tained fears, perhaps well-founded ones, that I should yet
endeavour to go back to the Philippines, used every means to
prevent me. She spoke to me of marriage ; and in all her
letters repeated that she should not be happy until I agreed
to enter into the ties of a new union : she said my name would
otherwise become extinct, and, as her last consolation, she
asked me to allow her to choose a companion for me.

300 TWENT? YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES.

The wish to satisfy her, and also the remembrance of
Anna's last words : " Return to thy country, and marry one of
thy countrywomen," decided my resolution.

I soon made choice of one, who would have fully rendered
a man happy who had not too frequently before him the re
membrance of a previous union. Nevertheless, I was as happy
as I could be. My new wife possessed every quality necessary
for my happiness. By her I became father of two children,
and I began to bless the determination which my mother had
contributed so much to make me adopt ; but, alas ! happiness
was never for me lasting ; the cup of bitterness was not yet
exhausted, and I had still to shed many tears.

In the cemetery of Vertoux, a modest tomb for thee, poor
mother ! is -erected, between that of a husband and a son ; and
soon after another grave was opened at Neuilly. In profound
affliction I had the following lines engraved on the latter :

" Yeille, du haut des cieux, sur ta tristc famille ;
Conserve-moi ton fils et revis dans ta fille."*

* " From Heaven's height look down and see
The sorrows of thy family ;
Preserve for me thy only boy,
And in thy daughter give me joy."

STATISTICS OP THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

The Philippines are a large group of islands in the North Pacific
Ocean, and were discovered by Magellan in 1521; they were afterwards
taken possession of by the Spaniards, in the reign of Philip II, from whom
they take their name. The islands are said to be eleven hundred in
number, but some hundreds of them are very small, and all are nominally
subject to the Spanish government at Manilla.

In order to give the reader an idea of their riches, and the vast resources
they can furnish to Spain, I shall here give some details of the division
of the country into provinces, with the number of towns contained in each,
of the population, and of the various branches of industry exercised by the
Indians, and, finally, a description of the principal agricultural products.

DIVISION OF ALL THE PHILIPPINES INTO PROVINCES AND MARKET-
TOWN DISTRICTS, AND THEIR POPULATION, ACCORDING TO THE
CENSUS TAKEN IN 1833.

Provinces. Nvmber nf Towns. Population*

Tondo 30 285,030

Bulacan 19 187,735

Panpanga 26 182,360

Bataan 10 38,920

Zambales 15 39,510

Pangasinan ... 31 215,635

Ilocos (South) ... 23 206,085

Ilocos (North) ... 14 190,160

Islas Batanes ... 3 800

Cagayan 34 107,600

Nueva Ecija ... 15 23,285

Laguna 33 135,810

Batangas 13 196,695

Cavite 10 83,010

Carried forward 1,892,635

306

STATISTICS OF THE

Provinces. Number of Towns.

Population,

Brought forward

1,892,635

Tayabas

16

77,315

Camarinco (North)

11

25,035

Camarinco (Soutli)

27

187,315

Albai

38

139,595

Zamboanga

2

10,000

Misamis

23

35,180

Caraga

30

32,510

Leite

31

91,275

Samar

28

92,730

Zebou

38

203,555

Isla de Negros

23

60,980

llaila

31

232,055

Antique

11

78,250

°2

115,440

Calami anes

12

20,730

Mindoro

8

41,190

3,345,790

In tnis number — 3,345,790 — of inhabitants, which constitute all the
population under the Spanish Government, are comprised from 25,000 to
30,000 Chinese. Exclusive of this population there exist unknown
numbers of Indians, who, to avoid the payment of taxes, have found means
to escape from the census ; and also the wild savages in the interior of
the island of Luzon, whose number there is no means of knowing.

MECHANICAL AND AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS.

The Philippines yield every colonial product that man can desire. There
are abundant crops of rice, coffee, sugar, indigo, tobacco, cotton, cacao,
abaca, or vegetable silk, pepper, gums, cocoa-nuts, dye-woods, timber
of all descriptions for furniture and for buildings, rattans of various kinds,
and all the agreeable fruits of the tropics. On the shores are found
nacre, or mother of pearl, magnificent pearls, birds' -nests, shells of every
description, an incredible quantity of excellent fish, and the trepang, or

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 307

balatt, a sea-worm, or animal substance, found on the shores of the
Philippine Islands, resembling a large pudding. The Chinese are very
fond of it, and mix it with fowl and vegetables.

The inhabitants practise various kinds of industry ; they weave matting
of extraordinary fineness and of the brightest colours, straw hats, cigar
cases, and baskets ; they manufacture cloth and tissues of every sort
from cotton, silk, and abaca ; they, from filaments taken from the leaves
of the etuana, make cambric of a texture much finer than that of France ;
and they also manufacture coarse strong cloth for sails, &c., and ropes and
cables of all dimensions ; they tan and dress leather and skins to perfec
tion ; they manufacture coarse earthenware, and forge and polish arms of
various kinds ; they build ships of heavy tonnage, and also light and neat
boats ; and at Manilla they frame and finish-off beautiful carriages ; they
are also very clever workers in gold, silver, and copper ; and the Indian
women are specially expert in needlework, and in all kinds of embroidery.

I.

OF THE SOIL OF THE ISLAND OF LUZON, AND THE SOURCES OF ITS
FERTILITY.

The island of Luzon is the largest of the Philippines, and extends from
north to south for the length of about six degrees. It is divided throughout
its whole extent by a chain of mountains, which in general owe their
formation to volcanic eruptions. Traces are found throughout of the great
convulsions produced by subterraneous fires, and in proof of this theory
I shall make some observations which demonstrate it.

In the middle of the lake of Bonbon, in the province of Batangas, the
volcano of Taal is always in combustion ; and, although during many years
there has been no eruption, enormous clouds of smoke are continually
ascending from its vast crater. From this mountain to that of Mainit
(signifying "hot"), a distance of about five or six leagues, there is sub
terraneous communication, for this latter mountain is always threatening
great eruptions, and at its summit there are various chinks, occasionally emit
ting a thick smoke, and sometimes flames. At its base, in the part bathed
by the waters of the lake of Bay, which is distant from ten to twelve
leagues from the lake of Bonbon, there are numbers of thermal springs, that

308 STATISTICS OF THE

burst forth at the temprature of boiling water. All these springs, the
waters of which discharge themselves into the lake, emit a great quantity
of vapour, so that, from a distance, one might imagine the lake to be
always boiling.

At about from three to four miles in the lake of Bay the little island
of Socolme is to be seen ; it is formed of a circular cordon of land, elevated
above the water from twelve to fifteen hundred feet, and in the middle
of this cordon is the little lake of the same name, which is evidently
nothing but an extinct crater, into which the water has penetrated.

In the provinces of Laguna and Batangas there is the high mountain
called Maijai, one of the loftiest in Luzon, which is beyond doubt an
ancient crater ; on the summit a little lake is found, the depth of which
cannot be measured. At some period the lava that then flowed from the
summit towards the base, in the neighbourhood of the town of Nacarlan,
covered up immense cavities, which are now recognisable by the sonorous
noise of the ground for a great extent; and sometimes it happens that,
in consequence of an inundation or an earthquake, this volcanic crust
is in some places broken, and exposes to the view enormous caverns,
which the Indians call "the mouths of hell."

Finally, in the district about the town of San Pablo, which is situated
on the mountains, are found great numbers of .little circular lakes and
immense heaps of rotten stones, basalt, and different descriptions of lava,
which show that all these lakes are nothing else than the craters of old
volcanoes. Altogether the soil to the southward, in the province of
Albai, is completely volcanic, and the frequent eruptions of the volcano
bearing that name may, as the natives say, be attributed to the same
cause as the earthquakes so often felt in the island of Luzon.

Over almost the whole of these mountains, where fire has thus played
so conspicuous a part, there is a great depth of vegetable earth, and they
are covered with a most splendid vegetation. Their declivities nourish
immense forests and fine pastures in which grow gigantic trees — palm
trees, rattans, and lianas of a thousand kinds, or gramineous plants of
various sorts, particularly the wild sugar cane, which rises to the height of
from nine to twelve feet from the ground ; in their interior are rich mines
of copper, gold, iron, and coal.

There are two distinct and strongly marked seasons in the island of

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 809

Luzon, namely, the rainy or the wintry season, and the dry or summer
season. For six months of the year — that is from, June to Decem
ber — the wind blows from the south-west to the north-east, and then the
declivities of the mountains and all the western side of the island are in the
season of the rains ; in the six other months, the wind changes, and blows
from the north-east to the south-west, when all the eastern parts of the
island have the season of winter.

During the rainy season, the incessant fall of rain on the mountains
causes the rivers, both large and small, to overflow and to become torrents,
that rush down upon the plains, covering them with water, and depositing
the broken earth and slirne which they have gathered in their course.

In the dry season, water is supplied for irrigation from reservoirs,
which are carefully filled during the rains. From these causes it follows
that, without any manuring, and with scarcely any improvement from
human industry, the soil of the Philippines is as fertile as any in the
world; so that, without great labour, the cultivator has most abundant
harvests.

The different products — of the cultivation of which I shall now give a
description— are rice, wheat, a vast variety of leguminous vegetables,
indigo, tobacco, vegetable silk, coffee, cacao, cotton, pepper, bamboos —
which grow almost without any culture — and, lastly, the cocoa-nut tree.

IL

RICE.

There are more than thirty kinds of rice cultivated in the Philippines,
all quite distinct in taste, in form, in colour, and in the weight of the
grain. These are divided into two classes — first, the mountain rice ;
and second, the aquatic rice. They are cultivated differently, although
the mountain rice may be treated in the same manner as the aquatic
crop.

Culture of Mountain Rice.

The mountain rice is cultivated in high lands, not exposed to the dan
ger of inundation during the rains. The following are the names of the

810 STATISTICS OF THE

different descriptions : — Pinursegui, Lanlan-Sanglay, Quinarayon, Pinu-
rutung, Quinamalig-Pinulut, Mangasarag-Puti, Binuriri, Pinagocpoc,
Quinandanpula, Quinandanputi, Mangusa, Bolivon, Binumero, Quina-
bibao, Binoliti, Quiriquiri, Binulut-Cabayo, Dinulang, Macapilaypusa,
Tinuma, Mangoles.

In the western part of the island of Luzon, as soon as the first rains fall,
towards the end of May or the beginning of June, the cultivator pre
pares the ground, by giving it two ploughings and two harrowings. The
plough represented by Fig. 1, p. 334, is the one employed for this purpose.
The harrow is triangular, and like the one used in France.

The lands being well prepared and well tilled, the rice is sown broad
cast, and, after about a month, it is well hoed and weeded, which is usually
sufficient for the removal of all the noxious weeds that have sprung up
among the plants.

If the crop be of the kind called Pinurscgui, which is one of the
earliest, the rice may be gathered in about three months or three months
and a-half after it is sown ; if it be one of the other kinds, it is necessary,
in order that the grain should come to full maturity, to wait for at least
five months, after which the rice is cut down with a hook (see Fig. 3,
p. 335), put in small sheaves, of which large cocks are made, to wait for
several fine days, in order to separate the grain from the straw. This
operation is performed by means of buffaloes, which are kept moving
round in a large area, or thrashing-floor, on which the rice is spread ; or
else on bamboo trellises, raised perhaps ten feet from the ground, on
which an Indian tramples with his feet over the rice sheaves as they
are handed up to him, and the grain falls through the interstices of the
trellis work.

Mountain rice is sometimes sown without any ploughing.

Culture of Rice for Clear ing- Grounds.

After the trees or brushwood which had covered the land are cut down,
they are burned, and then rice is sown, by making, with a stick or dibble,
a hole, into which are thrown three or four Drains of rice ; or perhaps the
rice is sown broadcast, and then, for about a month, a herd of buffaloes is
kept on the ground, so that they, by trampling, sink the seed into the
earth. In this kind of tillage, from the abundance of grass and weeds,

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 811

several hoeings and weedings become necessary ; but the labour is amply
repaid by an abundant crop, which generally yields a hundred-fold and
upwards.

In the small fields the ears are cut singly, in order afterwards to dry
them in the sun. This mode of gathering the crop is troublesome and
tedious, but it has this advantage over the process of collecting in heaps,
that a great deal of the grain is saved from the voracious birds.

All the other kinds of mountain rice are sown in the same manner as
that called Pinursegui, but this last has the advantage of being fit for har
vesting in twelve or fourteen weeks, while the others require twenty weeks.

Culture of Aquatic Rice.

There are ten kinds of aquatic rice : — Macabunutdiln, Macon, Macan,
Soulucay, Macon-Sulug, Macon-Muriti, Macon-Susoy, Macay-Bucave,
Malaquit-Puti, and Malaquit-Pula.

They are all cultivated in a similar manner in China and Lombardy.

The two last kinds, Malaquit-Puti and Malaquit-Pula, do not serve for
every-day food ; the one grain is a dead white, while the other is per
vaded by a fine violet colour. They are both used in general for delica
cies, and to make a kind of paste, a substitute for starch.

All these kinds of rice are first raised in seed-beds, from which they
are transplanted into lands properly prepared for them. For a superficies
of 40,000 yards it takes about 750 Ibs. of seed.

Seed-Beds.

When the first rains fall in June, the ground is prepared for the seed.
It is first covered with from six to eight inches of water, and then it is
well ploughed, and the comb-harrow is passed oyer it (see Fig. 4, p. 335)
until it is reduced into liquid mud ; it is then left to let the water drain off.
The seed is then cast over it ; but, previous to being sown, the seed is gene
rally steeped in water for twenty-four hours, in order to promote its vegeta
tion. When the ground is entirely covered with seed, a board of about a
yard and arhalf or two yards in breadth is passed over the whole surface,
for the purpose of sinking the grains in the mud, and of covering them.

For five or six days it is not useful to irrigate them ; but if, when

312 STATISTICS OF THE

the plants have risen some inches above ground, the drought is verj
great, it will be necessary to supply them with water, taking always great
care never to cover the young leaves, for under water they would all
perish.

Transplanting.

Porty or forty-five days after the seed has been put into the earth, the
rice plants are fit to be transplanted; the land in which they are to
be fixed is divided into large squares, and surrounded by little raised paths,
which serve to confine the water with which it must be completely covered ;
it is then again ploughed, and, as has been done for the seed sowing, by
means of the comb-harrow it is reduced into a state of liquid mud, and on
the following day the water is let off, and the plants are got ready to be
placed in it.

It is usual to have men to take up the plants, and women to fix them in
the earth. Two men are enough for this work ; one of them pulls the
plants, and the other removes them to the planting-ground, which Is never
far off, and distributes them to the women planting there. The man who
is occupied with pulling the plants has before him a little table, fixed in
the earth by a stake, and a large quantity of small bamboo strings, which
he carries fastened to his waist, as gardeners in France carry rushes when
they are pruning trees. He pulls up the plants without much precaution,
and, laying them on the table, cuts off the long roots and the leaves, and
makes them into little bundles of the thickness of his arm, and lays them
in a kind of sliding car, drawn by buffaloes, which the other Indian leads
to the planting-ground, and throws the bundles about in all directions on
the prepared land, only separating them so that the women planters may
take them up by stretching out their arms, without having to quit the
lines that they are following in the planting.

All the women planting are up to the calf of the leg in the mud ;
they follow each one a line, and, moving backwards, take up the little
bundles which are thrown behind them, undo the tying, separate the
plants from each other, and then, with their thumbs, stick the plants, one
by one, into the mud, at a distance of from four to six inches from
each other. They are so used to this practice of planting as to do it with
the greatest rapidity, and with such perfectly regularity that one would

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 313

be almost tempted to believe that they hud a measure to guide them in
their exact observance of the distances.

When the planting is finished, and although the sun is burning hot, the
rice field is not watered for eight or ten days, but as soon as the plants
shoot up their green leaves, if there have not any rains fallen, they are
irrigated, and the land is covered with two or three inches of water, and,
in proportion to the growth of the plants, the water is increased.

These lands are seldom weeded, but careful cultivators do not neglect
every opportunity of removing the large noxious weeds which might
damage the rice.

When the rice has come to its full height — that is, from forty to fifty
inches there is no longer any necessity for irrigation ; on the contrary, it
would be rather injurious at the time when the plant is in flower.

Sometimes, when the land is exceedingly fertile, the plants grow to the
height of European wheat, and then they would have become all stalk ;
to prevent this, and to force them to produce grain instead of straw, an
Indian takes a long pole and, stretching it over the, plants, stamps on the
middle of it, and thereby lays all the plants level on the earth, so that
they seem as if flattened by violent winds.

Four months after the transplanting— that is, about five months and
a-half after the sowing — the rice is fully ripe and fit for being harvested. It
is then cut with the sickle, by both men and women, and in proportion as
the bundles of sheaves are large and many, they are gathered to a high
spot, and made into cocks or ricks, to wait for the general carrying home.

In some parts of the island of Luzon the first crop of rice is followed
by a second planting of an early or precocious kind — that is, the mountain
rice, called Pinursegui ; but then the sowing of the seed is effected before
hand, and in a quite different manner from that of which I have given a
description.

Three weeks or a month previous to gathering the first crop off the
ground, the Indians place on the ponds and rivers little bamboo rafts,
which they cover over with a deep layer of straw, and on the straw they
make seed-beds ; the grain sprouts, and the roots weave themselves in
through the straw, and so reach the surface of the water, in order thence
to draw nourishment. When the first crop is taken off the ground
and the field has received a ploughing, and has been prepared for the

814 STATISTICS OF THE

second planting, the seedlings are taken off the rafts by rolling up the
straw — in the same manner as a mat is rolled up— and carried to the place
then read}7, and there the young plants are pulled, one by one, out of the
straw, their long roots and leaves are cut off, and they are stuck in the
earth. By this means in less than three months a second crop is obtained,
which is by no means as abundant, it is true, as the first one, but which,
notwithstanding, amply indemnifies the tiller for his toil.

The Indian native of the Philippines has studied every way of pro
curing his natural food, and he makes use of every means that the fertile
soil of his country offers, to gain that object. For that purpose he employs
another mode to obtain, almost without labour, abundant crops.

There is a kind of rice which is essentially an aquatic plant — the
Macon-Sulug — and it yields abundantly, although continually bathed by
water. In some parts of the island there are marshes and lakes of very
little depth, and the Indians prepare for them seed-beds of this kind of
rice, which has the property of shooting forth very long leaves. These
seed-beds are prepared in the same manner as those of the other aquatic
rice, and after six weeks' growth the plants are pulled up, and their roots
shortened, but care is taken to preserve the leaves entire in all their length.
The plants are then put on board the lightest boats, which are rowed by
Indians into the shallow parts of the lake, where the men's arms can
reach the bottom ; the plants are there stuck in the mud, and the leaves
are allowed to swim on the surface. The plants soon become strong, and
shoot up stalks — as if they were growing on earth — at the surface of
the water. If by any accident the water is increased in the lake, the rice
stalks shoot up in proportion to that increase, so that it can swim
over the water, for it would perish where it wholly submerged.

Four months after the transplanting, the crop is gathered in by the
little boats, in which the Indians go from one part of the lake to another
where any rice has been planted.

All these kinds of aquatic rice yield most abundantly ; the poorest crop
may be estimated at twenty-five, and the good at from sixty to eighty-fold.
There is, however, one scourge, which every seven or eight years, deprives the
cultivator of the benefit of his labours and toils — I mean the locusts, which
coming suddenly, like a dark cloud, alight on a field covered with luxuriant
vegetation, and then suddenly ruin it, even to the very roots. Great droughts

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 3J5

ako destroy the rice fields of the mountains ; and it is for these reasons
that the Indian says with such sincerity : " Give us sunshine, give us
water, and keep away the locusts, then our crops are safe."

IIL
INDIGO.

Culture and Crops.

In various parts of the Philippines, and especially at Luzon, indigo is
cultivated with success, yet this cultivation is that which runs most risks.
Bad weather for a few days, and strong gales, often ruin all the crop.
Sometimes, also, myriads of caterpillars devour all the leaves in a few
hours, and if any are left they are scarcely sufficient to defray the expense
of the manufacturing process. But, if the season be favourable, it no acci
dents take place, and if that process is carried on with judgment, the high
price of the indigo always indemnifies the grower.

The cultivation begins immediately after the cold season, and before the
great heats, and when there is no apprehension of the heavy rains : the
land is got ready by two or three ploughings and harrowings, and when it
is sufficiently tilled the seed is sown broad-cast. The plant shows itself
over ground on the third or fourth day, and continues to shoot up while
it finds any moisture, but if there be a drought it remains stationary
during the time of its duration. As soon as the first rains fall, at the com
mencement of the south-west monsoon, on this side of the island, its growth
is rapid and strong. But with it grow also the bad weeds, which it is
necessary to eradicate by two or three careful hoeings.

Two months and a-half after the first rains the plants have acquired
their full size, and they are known to be fit for pulling when the leaves are
thick, covered with a whitish velvety down, and are easily broken by the
slightest pressure. They ore usually thoroughly mature at the end of
July — that is, in the middle of the rainy season ; but then, every preparation
is made for their being properly handled, so that there will not be any
blunder in the matter, and that the plants may not have time to cast off
any portion of their leaves, which would occur if there was any delay.

The preparations, which are more or less considerable according to

810 STATISTICS OF THE

the importance of the crop, consist in several batteries. Each of these
batteries is composed of two large vats, from three yards to nearly
three yards and a half in diameter, and three yards in depth, one
of which is designed for the fermentation process, and the other for the
beating or churning one. This last vat is a little smaller than the former.
They are both placed on the brow of a rivulet, or of a river, in order to
have the facility of obtaining water. The vat for fermentation ought to be
placed on a spot somewhat higher than the other, so that, by means of
cocks or spiggots, which are placed longitudinally, all the water contained
in that vat may be easily removed into the churning one. There are also
one or two buckets, placed at one end of long poles, with weights at the
other end, which poles are placed across a wooden fork of two strong
pieces, and raised some yards above the fermentation vat. This appa
ratus resembles very much in construction those which are to be seen along
the banks of the Nile, and in Spain, and other parts of the south of Europe.
Two long bamboos, having fastened at one end a small board, from five to
six inches in length, and from two to three inches in breadth, are what
may be called the beating or churning dashes. Lastly, there is a small
vat under a shed, a little distance from the batteries, where there are
articles for straining, made of coarse cotton cloth, and a small press for
squeezing those articles, and large hurdles for drying the indigo.

Every arrangement being thus made, the gathering-in is begun. On
the first day, enough plants are cut down to allow the cutters to be always
one day in advance of the vats. The plant is cut level to the earth with a
kind of cutlass, which the Indian wears by his side, and is called bolo. If
the after-season continues favourable, the plant sprouts afresh, and some
times produces two or three crops in the same year.

Each battery is managed by two Indians, one fills the vat with the
plants, and the other supplies the vat with water, and the two together
beat or churn the produce. At a very early hour in the morning the
fermentation vat is filled to the brim with plants, and they are kept down
by pieces of wood, which are fastened in ledges or grooves on the inside of
the vat : without this precaution the vat would overflow. When it is full of
plants and water, fermentation takes place in from twenty to twenty-four
hours, according to the heat of the temperature. When the fermentation
has reached its greatest height, which is generally the next morning, the

PHIUPP1NE ISLANDS. 8H

plants are removed out of the vat, and care is taken that no water is re
moved with them, for which purpose they are well shaken. When nothing
remains hut the liquor, which is then of an emerald colour, the Indian puts
a certain quantity of quick lime in a bucket of water, which he very care
fully pours it into the fermentation vat. The Indian then takes one of
the heating or churning dashes, and plunges to it the bottom of the
vat, where he moves it about, so that the lime is circulated throughout
the whole. Ho soon knows if he has put enough by the colour, which
suddenly changes its shade; from an emerald green it becomes a deep
green, and the liquor appears to contain a number of little clots or
globules, which are nothing but the indigo in a state of solution. The
quantity of lime necessary for the operation cannot be calculated, but a
man of experience can give a good guess. Upon this quantity entirely
depends the quality of the product which is wished for, as well as the
shade of colour required.

After the lime has been mixed with the liquor it is left at rest for some
minutes, during which all the particles not belonging to the indigo sink
to the bottom of the vat, but the indigo remains suspended in the water.
After a few minutes all the cocks and spiggots, over one another on
the side of the vat, are gradually opened, and the liquor flows into the
beating or churning vat.

The fermentation vat is then cleared of the deposit from the lime, and
every other thing remaining at the bottom, and is immediately filled
with fresh plants for a new fermentation.

During the afternoon the beating or churning takes place. The two
Indians take their dashes, and with all their force stir the liquor up from
the bottom to the top, in order that the matter which forms the indigo
may come into contact with the air, which renders it insoluble in the water.
When the whole has acquired a fine blue colour the process is finished.
Three or four hours afterwards, all the indigo contained in the liquor de
posits itself at the bottom of the vat, and then the cocks and spiggots, one
above the other, are opened, to let the water flow off, and which does not
then contain any colouring matter whatever.

Each of these operations produces, on an average, about sixteen pounds
of indigo. Every six days, when from two hundred and fifty to three hun
dred pounds are collected, they are taken out of the vat, and removed to a

0

318 STATISTICS OF THE

much smaller vat, j laced near the drainers. The product is left for some
time, and all the water is drawn off by a syphon. At length, when there
is no more to he drawn off, the indigo appears to be a sort of mud, it is
put into the drainers, where it finishes the dripping. It is then put
into the press, and from thence it is taken out in a state resembling a
coarse cake, and is divided by a brass wire into small squares, which are
placed in the drying places. A month's time is often required for it to become
thoroughly dry, but this depends on the state of the atmosphere. When the
indigo is perfectly dry it is put into cases, and sent to the market for sale.
This mode of making indigo is practised throughout the Philippines.
Nevertheless, some of the great growers of the plant have adopted a change
in a part of the process, of which 1 was the introducer, and which has
diminished very considerably the expense of the workmanship. This
alteration consists in substituting for the fermentation Tats a large bason,
built of mason-work, and so arranged as to receive naturally the water
required for its use. In the course of an hour, from a distance of from fifty
to sixty yards, on a flat spot below the level of this bason, the number of
rats necessary for receiving all its contents are filled. This bason, of
which the brink is on a level with the ground, facilitates the process
very much, and makes a great saving in the working-men ; for first, it can
be filled with water without that water being drawn by the Indians, and
the labour is avoided of taking the plants up a height of from four to five
yards. The Indian who is carrying the plants to the fermentation vat
comes with a little car, without wheels, to the brink of the reservoir, and
then, without any difficulty, discharges his load into the reservoir. The
vats for beating or churning are placed fifty or sixty yards off on the
same line. The first communicates with the reservoir by bamboos, split
in two, and forming a kind of channel, and each vat communicates with
the others by the same means. The liquor passes from the reservoir
to the first vat, and during its passage comes into contact with the
air, and when the first vat is filled the surplusage is sent on to the others,
and so on, to the last of all. All this movement of the liquor serves a
real beating, and saves two-thirds of the workmen necessary for the
fermentation.

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 319

IV.

TOBACCO.

Next to the cultivation of rice that of tobacco is, in a pecuniary point
of view, the most important, although all the product is obliged to ba
given up to the monopolising government which is the sole purchaser, and
which, in its great establishment at Binondoc, employs continually from
15,000 to 20,000 workmen and workwomen in manufacturing cigars for
the consumption of the country and for exportation. They arc sent all
over India, where they are as much prized as are the Havanna cigars
in Europe.

In the island of Luzon, the greatest quantity of tobacco is cultivated in
the provinces of Nueva Ecija and Cagavan. The mode of cultivation does
not differ in any great respect from that followed in other parts of the
world. It consists in making great seed-beds, from which the plants are
removed out into ground that is well tilled by several ploughings and
harrowings. The young plants are set at intervals of a yard, in regular
lines, which are separated by a distance of a yard and a half from each
other.

During the first two months after the trasplanting it is indispensably
necessary to give four ploughings to the ground between the rows of the
plants, and, every fifteen days to handpick, or even better, to root out
with the mattock, all the weeds which cannot be touched by the plough.

These four ploughings ought to be done in such a manner as to leave
alternately a furrow in the middle of each line, and on the sides, and con
sequently, at the last ploughing, the earth covers the plants up to their
first leaves, and there remains a trench in the middle of the rows for
letting off the water. As soon as each plant has gained a proper height,
its head is lopped off to force the sap to turn into the leaves, and, in a
few weeks afterwards, it is fit for being gathered.

Mode of Gathering in the Crop.

This crop consits in tearing off all the leaves from the trunk, and in
separating them into three classes, according to their size, and afterwards in
making them into bunches of fifty or a hundred, and in passing through

320 STATISTICS OF THE

them, near the foot, a little hamboo cane, as if it was a skewer, by which
the bunches are afterwards hung up to dry in vast sheds, into which the
sun's rays cannot enter, but in which the air circulates freely ; they arc
left to hang there until they become quite dry, and for this, a greater or
less time is required, according to the state of the weather. When the dry
ing is effected the leaves are placed, according to their quality, in bales
of twenty-five pounds, and in that state they are handed over to the ad
ministration of the monopoly.

V.

ABACA, OR VEGETABLE SILK.

The Abaca is exclusively cultivated on the declivities of the mountains ;
it grows exceedingly well in a volcanic soil, and there shoots up in every
direction.

The Abaca produces an abundance of seed, but the seed is not used for
reproduction, as its growth would require a long time before the plant
could come to maturity fit for a crop. At the foot of the old stock the
shoots are found, and are divided into as many seedlings as there are
syptoms of germination, and they are set in the earth in such a manner
as soon to form new plants.

The ground for the plantation is got ready during the dry season, the
brushwood and the young trees are cut down, some of the lofty trees only
are preserved to afford shade to the plantation during the first two years.
When the soil is well cleared, lines are traced transversely to the mountain,
and spaced from three yards, to three yards and a-half, the one from the
other, and then holes of from ten to fifteen centimetres, and of about the
same diameter, are opened in those lines, and, when the first rains begin, a
sprout is laid in the hole, and covered up with earth.

During the two first years frequent weedings are required to remove
all the brushwood that grows around the young plants, and at different
times during the rainy season, to stir up the earth at their roots with a
mattock.

The second year, the long broad leaves rising up from four to five yards,
will keep down all weeds and brushwood.

Crops.
The plants in about threr years produce from twelve to fifteen shoots

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 321

eacli. and yield some fruit, they should then he cut down. The leaves
are now severed from the trunks, and taken to the place of manipula
tion, which is at some little distance from the plantation, where women
divide them into thin strips, of from three to four inches in length, and
separate the outward from the interior layers. The outer layers furnish the
ahaca used in making ropes, and the inner ones, being of finer filaments,
serve for weaving ; the strips are exposed for some hours to the sun, to
render them more flexible, and then an Indian places before him a small
stool, on which, by the pressure of his foot, he can force down an iron
blade ; he then places one of the strips on the stool, presses with the sole
of his foot on the iron blade, which lies on the strip, and then, with all
his strength, draws the strip to him, and by this movement and the
pressure the filaments are cleaned from the parenchyme, or soft matter
grown with them, and come out quite white, after which it is enough to
expose them for some hours to the sun, and they are fit for sale.

Every year, during the dry season, the grower has a fresh crop ; for a
plantation properly arranged, in a suitable spot, yields indefimitely.

VI.
COFFEE.

The cultivation of this shrub is carried on in the same way as im
other colonies ; it consists in making large seed-beds in places protected
from the sun, either naturally by trees, or artificially by little straw
huts.

When the coffee plants reach a height of from twelre to eighteen inches
they are transplanted in land prepared for that purpose, which is ubtuilljf
selected in large woods exposed to the rising sun, and on a slope, where
care has previously been taken to eradicate all the brushwood and small
trees, and to preserve those only whose shade may be useful ; and then in
rows, about three yards distant from each, holes are opened at every
two yards, and the young plants are put into them, and the roots are
covered up with well-tilled earth.

During the first years it is requisite with the mattock to destroy all
the weeds, but when the coffee trees are three years old, and begin to bear,
it is enough to give them every year a good weeding, after the crop ia

322 STATISTICS OF THE

taken away : they are topped in the fourth or fifth year, when about ten
feet high. If allowed to grow to too great a height, the side branches,
which are the best bearers, would be injured in their development, and, in
addition, there would be difficulty in gathering the berries.

Crops.

The crop is gathered according as the fruit changes its colour from
green to a fine red cherry hue. In our colonies, as soon as the fruits
are gathered they are laid in the sun, to dry them in their pulp, and
afterwards pounded in a mortar, to separate the dry pulp from the parch
ment, or second covering of the berry.

In the Philippines, the Indians, after each gathering, bruise the pulp
with their hands, and separate the grains by washing them in clean open
water, and, after this manipulation, the grains which retain their parch
ment or second covering are alone dried for some hours in the sun, and
then collected in sacks.

By the first method several weeks of drying become necessary before
the berries can be separated from the husks ; and if the rains occur it will
be requisite to turn over the coffee heaps three or four times every day while
they are thus drying, or fermentation will inevitably take place, which will
prove exceedingly injurious to the quality of the coffee. By the Indian
method, one fine day of exposure to the sun will be sufficient to render the
berry quite dry, and then the whole crop can be put into the stores.

VII.
CACAO.

The cacao grows with ease in every part of the island of Luzon, but
the best quality is produced at Zebon, where, also, the greatest quantity is
cultivated.

The spots best suited for the cultivation are alluvial lands, having
great depth of soil, and somewhat shaded by trees. The expense of culti
vating cacao is, for the first year, greater than that of coffee ; for, after
removing the weeds, the brushwood, and the trees that give too much
shade, a quincunx of ditches is dug, of four or five feet deep, on a square
of equal extent ; the earth is passed through a hurdle, and in it are mixed

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 323

pieces of plants which have been broken, and the earth is thrown back
into the ditches, and therein are set the young plants, of which such care
has been taken as to have them sprouting during the previous three
weeks, in a little earth laid in banana leaves.

During two or three years care is taken to dig around the young
shrubs, and to eradicate all the weeds likely to prove injurious to them.

Crops.

The crop consists merely in gathering the fruits when ripe, in opening
them, in separating the beans from the parchment, and in drying them
before the sun.

VIII.
COTTON.

The cultivation of cotton, which is carried on to a great extent, and
especially in the province of Ilocos, is, of all the products of the Philippines,
that which requires the least labour and expense ; it generally follows a
crop of mountain rice. As soon as the rice crop is carried off, the ground
receives a light ploughing, and in the tracks made afterwards by the
plough, at a distance of a yard from each other, some cotton seeds are laid,
and covered in the earth. In about two months afterwards the cotton
plants begin to flower, and to produce fruit, which is gathered in every
day during the hottest hours.

The gathering of this crop lasts until the first rains, which destroj
the shrubs, and stain all the cotton that they then produce.

IX.

PEPPER.

Formerly the island of Luzon, and particularly the provinces of Laguna
and Batay, used to produce a large quantity of pepper, which was exported
by the Philippine Company, who had a monopoly of it.

The price was at that time fixed by a measure called ganta, which was
used both by sellers and buyers. When the growers came to sell their
products at Manilla they found that the agents of the company had
altered the measure, by making that of the company double the capacity

324 STATISTICS OF THE

of the one used by the Indians, thereby cheating the sellers. The Indians,
furious at this trick, went back to their own country, and in a few days
destroyed all the pepper plantations, so that now the island of Luzon
scarcely produces pepper sufficient for its own consumption.

The pepper plant is generally cultivated near the mountains, in spots
where heavy dews fall and keep up the moisture. This parasite requires but
little care ; it is propagated by cuttings, and it is enough to take a piece
of from twelve to eighteen inches, to bend it together, to cover the middle
with earth, and to tie the two points against a prop, of from five to six
feet in height, and as far as possible of dead wood, covered with its bark, and
capable of absorbing much moisture. The young plant grows up, fasten
ing to the dend wood, and mounts as high as its top ; all that is required
afterwards is to weed around it, and to dig the earth once a year at its foot.

Crops.

The grains are gathered as fast as they change in colour from green to
black. They are collected in heaps, and spread out in the sun for some
days, in order to be thoroughly dried.

WHEAT.

Wheat produces in the island of Luzon from sixty to eighty- fold, and is
grown on the mountains in the different provinces, and in particular that of
Batangas. Before sowing it, the Indians prepare the ground altogether
in the same manner as for the mountain rice, and their seeding time is at
t'he end of December or the beginning of January. Three or four weeks
after the sowing the women give it a good weeding, and in three months
and a-half, or four months, the crop is ready for harvesting, and is saved
in precisely the same manner as the mountain rice.

XI.

SUGAR-CANE.

The cultivation of the sugar-cane takes place according to two methods,
which differ from each other : — the one is practised in lands just cleared,
and the other in lands that have been already ploughed.

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 325

First Method.

The first method affords one of the most effectual means for carrying
out a great clearing at a small expense, and is as follows :

Towards the month of October all the trees and brushwood are cut
down on the ground which is to be cleared for planting. This work must
be done with great care, and it ought not to be neglecte;!, as soon as a
tree is cut down, to lop off every one of its branches, and to strip it of the
bark ; for if any time, even a few days, are allowed to pass, the wood
becomes dry, and the barking is not only more difficult but more expensive.
Fifteen days after all the trees are cut down, a fine day is chosen, when
there is no wind, and when the sun is ardent, to set fire to them. On the
following day, when all is burned except the logs of a great thickness,
the workmen are employed in forming a fence round the plantation, to
prevent it being trespassed on by animals ; and to make this fence the
trees which have not been burned are used ; but the heavy logs, which
cannot be removed with ease, are left on the ground, to be burned in the follow
ing year. When the fence is completed, or even while it is going forward,
some workmen are employed in preparing the soil for receiving the young
cune plants ; each workman. has a line to mark out the rows, at from four
to five feet distance from each other, and in each of these rows, at three feet
distance from one another, the workmen, with a hoe, open a little hole or
furrow, a foot and a-half long, from five to six inches wide, and at least six
inches deep, in which the plants are put.

Before the holes are made for receiving the plants, it is indispensable
to divide the ground into large squares of from eighty to a hundred square
yards, and each of them is separated from the others by alleys of at least
three yards in breadth. When all the preparations are ready, the plants
are procured. They are the points of the canes which have been already
gathered in, and which serve as saplings for the new plantation. They
are cut off in lengths of from ten to twelve inches, tied up in large
parcels, like asparagus, and laid in water for at least three days,
BO as to be thoroughly steeped, care being taken that the water is not at
all corrupted. After three days' steeping the plants are taken to the
new plantation, the bundles are loosened, and the cuttings are given

3i26 STATISTICS OF THE

out to the planters, who, stripping off some of the leaves, lay two of them in
each hole, in such a manner that each plant lies at length along the
furrow or hole ; and if the bottom be not quite level, a little earth is added
to make it so. The point of a plant rises at each end of the hole, which is
then filled up with finely powdered mould. If the plantation has been
prepared during great heat, and if the drought be excessive, it is indis
pensable, before the plants are laid in the furrow, to pour into it from one
to two quarts of water.

When the plantation is finished it is not to be touched again until the
weeds begin to grow, and great care must then be taken to destroy them
as they spring up, otherwise they would soon smother the young canes ;
but as soon as the latter have grown up, and cover the ground with their
large leaves, it is unnecessary to make any further wecdings, or to do any
other work, up to the time of harvesting the canes.

It is usually from the month of March to the end of May, and even in
the beginning of June, that plantations are made according to the method
which I have described. Ten or twelve months afterwards the canes are
fit for being collected. As the canes are cut down in one of the large
j-quares that form the divisions of the plantation, the alleys round it are
cleaned with the greatest care of all the dry weeds, and of all the cane
leaves ; and at the time of the day when there is least or no wind, that
square is surrounded by the work-people, with branches in their hands, and
fire is then set to the heaps of leaves covering the ground to the height
of from one to two feet, arid in a few minutes the whole is consumed.
The precautions taken to clean the alleys, and to place the work-people
with branches in their hands, arise from the dread of the fires communi
cating with the other parts of the field from which the cane crop has not
been removed.

A few days after the leaves are thus burned, the plough is taken into
the ground, and some sods are taken away from near the stumps, so as to
strip them, and to throw the earth into the middle between the rows.
The first time that the plough is set at work in this ground great obstacles
may be met with, which require to be treated with caution ; they arise
from the great quantity of the roots of the trees, which are not yet rotten,
and ploughing there becomes, on that account, a troublesome task. If
the difficulties are too great, the pickaxe and mattock must be substituted

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 827

for the plough, and the foot of each plant must be stripped, by throwing the
earth into the middle between the rows. As soon as the first rains begin,
and that the weeds shoot up with the canes, a part of them must be de
stroyed by the plough, if possible, and the rest by the mattock. If the
plough cannot be employed, this work of weeding takes place usually three
times in the year ; at the second time, the lower part of the canes are
slightly dug around, and, at the third time, fresh earth is laid to them.
But this second digging must be varied according to the fertility of the
soil and the age of the canes, for the younger the cane and the more
fertile the soil, the less it is useful to put fresh earth to the foot of the
plant, and I shall now tell you why.

Inversely to all other plants, the cane tends always to raise itself
under the earth ; that is to say, if in the first year you plant it six inches
under ground, in the second year it will be found at only three inches, in
the third year at the surface, and in the fourth year in the earth which has
served as the second covering ; so that the more you heap earth and the
quicker it ascends, the greater the risk you run of losing several crops.
In a fertile soil, it is enough to cover lightly with earth the foot of the
stock, so that it shall sprout with vigour, and give a large quantity, and
then you may augment your second covering, by little and little, to have
from the same plantation the largest number possible of new canes.

In the third year, generally, all the stumps of the trees and their roots
are destroyed, and almost all the work can then be got through with the
plough : the mattock is used only for the second covering, which ought
then to be done so as to cover the stock of the cane to the height of from
ten to twelve inches.

Such is the course that is to be followed for making a plantation on
ground just cleared. One important advice is requisite here, and that is,
not to attempt to plant more than can be carefully attended to ; for if the
mistake is committed, of having too much ground planted, it would be
better to abandon altogether a part of the planting, in order to take
proper care of the remainder, than to manage the whole badly.
... f

Jecond Method.
The cultivation of the sugar-cane by the plough costs much less than

828 STATISTICS Ul< THE

that by clearing-grounds ; but it also gives in a shorter time two crops,
sometimes three, in very good hands.

One of the first conditions is, about the month of November, December,
or January, to plough the land three times, and to harrow it twice. When
it is will tilled and the earth quite fine, the land is divided into squares of
from eighty to a hundred yards, and along each ditch between them alleys are
left, of three or four yards in breadth : then divisions are made to facilitate
the burning of the leaves after harvest, which is done in the same way as in
the cleared lands. When the land is so divided, the third and last
ploughing is given, for the purpose of tracing the lines into rows, in which
the canes are to be planted. These rows are from four to four and a-half feet
asunder, and this last ploughing leaves a furrow, which marks the line for
laying down the plants. When the work is finished the plantations are
surrounded with palisades, to preserve the canes from animals, which
might destroy them ; and the plants are got ready in the same manner
as for the plantation of cleared lands, and the holes are opened by one set
of workmen, while others follow and lay the plants down and cover them
with earth.

If the plantations are got ready at the proper season, there is no ne
cessity for watering the plants ; but if the season is very dry, care is taken
to pour from one to two quarts of water in each hole. The plantations
are usually made during the harvest, for it is then that the tops of the
plants which are cut down can be easily obtained ; but as that occurs at
the time of the greatest drought, and water is required, the process
becomes tedious and costly, from having to bring to the ground so many
thousand quarts of water. To avoid that expense, and also that of weeding,
it has been found useful to prepare a field of canes specially designed for
plants and for nothing else. The planting is then carried on in the month
of December or January — that is, before harvest, when there are no heavy
rains, but there is a sufficiency of humidity. The plant then vegetates
luxuriously, and is strong and large when the heavy rains begin to fall.
But whether the planting be done in times of humidity or of great drought,
the process of cultivation is always the same. As soon as the rains begin
and the weeds shoot up, it becomes necessary to have recourse to the
plough, which is run within the rows, and care is taken to keep the furrow
in the middle, and to strip a little the foot of the plants ; and, after the

ISLANDS. 329

ploughing, it is almost indispensable to weed with the mattock and the
hand the ground round the plants, in order to thoroughly eradicate the
bad herbs which the plough could not reach.

Generally, during the time that the plant requires for growing up to
the height at which its leaves are sufficient to keep down the weeds, it is
necessary to run the plough three times between the rows, and also to
weed them three times. The harvesting is done in the same manner as
that of the cleared-ground plantations, and as the plants of one square
have been cut down, the leaves should be burned, and as soon as possible
the plough is to be run between the rows, and the earth thrown into
the middle. I have said that, as scon as possible the plough must be
used, because, after the leaves are burned, the ground is moist, and the
ploughing is done with great ease ; but if any delay is allowed, the glowing
sun, at that epoch of the harvest, is so strong that the ground soon becomes
parched up, and the ploughing becomes less easy, and more injurious to the
next growth.

In good lands tha same plant produces two or three crops.

Crops.

The harvesting of the sugar-canes takes place in the Philippines from
the month of January to May which is the times of the greatest heats. If
this harvesting can be effected within two months, it would be preferable
to commence it in the month of March, in order to terminate it about the
middle of May ; for it is during those months that the sugar-cane pro
duces matter, richer, and better filled with sugar. It is aiso the time when
the rains are not to be found ; but when there is a large plantation, and not
hands or machines sufficient to finish it in those two months, a beginning
is made in January, in order to finish towards the end of May, when the
heavy fall of rain commences.

The workmen are divided into four sets : two for the field — one of the
cutters, and the other of the carters or carriers of the canes to the manu
factory ; and two for the manufactory, of whom one is occupied with
grinding the canes in a mill, and the others who boil the sugar. To make
a good economical harvest of sugar-canes depends upon having a good
mill, and upon a proper distribution of the workmen. The mill is the
leader of the work ; for on its regularity depends the constant, orderly

330 STATISTICS OF THE

labour of the workmen, with advantage to the grower. When the mill
works well, and with good well-directed workmen, they who boil the sugar
have not a minute to spare ; for they are obliged to boil all the syrup that
the mill sends them. If the mill grinds many canes, the cutters are
forced to cut an abundance of them, and the men who have the duty of
transporting them to the mill cannot be idle while taking them there. It
is therefore an essential precaution to have a good mill, and a number of
good workmen to keep it properly at work.

Two days before the milling of the canes begins, the practice is to cut
as many canes as possible, and they are taken to the mill. This practice
has been adopted in order to have beforehand a sufficient quantity, so as to
avoid the vexation of seeing the mill stopped from want of a supply, since
in that case all the work is stopped, and some of the workmen have to
remain idle.

It is always recommended to the cutters to cut the canes as low as
possible — that is, on a level with the ground ; for every piece left above the
ground is so much lost, and becomes an obstacle to the next cultivation.

I shall not enter into the details of sugar boiling, for within some few
years the greatest improvements have been introduced into the apparatus
used for the purpose, and it would not be possible, in this short sketch, to
describe the new machinery, or the methods of making use of the various
utensils.

In the Philippine;?, the last improvement that has been made was to
copy that which was done, or perhaps what is now going on, in Bourbon—
that is, by working a battery, composed in general of from five to six
boilers, gradually diminishing in size ; from the first, in which the defeca
tion of the juice takes place, the syrup is successively passed on to the last, in
which the boiling of it is effected. Each operation requires forty-five minutes.
After the juice has been defecated, and the battery is in full operation, you
take of the defecated product from a hundred arid thirty to a hundred and
fifty pounds of sugar. The chief difficulty in boiling sugar is the defecation,
or clarification, by removing extraneous particles, and also the boiling it
to the proper point ; for practice alone can teach you when one has put
a sufficient quantity of lime, in order that the syrup shall be properly
clarified, and practice also can alone show when the sugar has been boiled
to the proper point.

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 331

XII.

BAMBOO.

Its Culture, Mode of Planting, Cutting, and Preservation.

The bamboo in the Philippines is a native, plant which grows there
almost without any cultivation, on the mountains and in the plains. It
presents varieties of fifteen or twenty species, from those of from two to
three inches in circumference to others as thick as a man's arm. There
are some having in the inside a hollow space, which is sometimes from
eighteen to twenty-five inches in diameter. All these various bamboos
have their different uses. With the small ones, enclosed fields are fenced
in ; with the Large ones, conduits are made for removing water. When
divided into long slight filaments they are made into hats, baskets,
ropes of considerable strength, arms and weapons which cut through
flesh with as much facility as does steel, and even fleams for bleeding
horses and buffaloes ; and even kitchen utensils for boiling food, in
the same manner as in an iron pot. It is also with the bamboo, that
the traveller can in a moment procure fire, as with a tinder-box and a
flint.

The cultivation of the bamboo is of the simplest nature ; it is trans
planted by cuttings and layers. A piece is taken, divided into five or six
knots ; a hole is made with a mattock, and this piece of bamboo is laid
therein with a slight inclination ; and is then covered up with earth.
The end above ground has two knots, and a split is made in it so as to allow
the rain-water to rest there as in a reservoir ; if there be a strong drought
at the moment of planting, this part is filled wjth water, and the plant
is left to itself. Care is however taken, every three or four months, to
remove the brushwood, which might prevent the young plants from spring
ing up to their usual height.

In three years the first cuttings may take place, but to preserve the
plant, and to cause it to produce an abundant crop for many years, care
must be taken to cut the sprouts which are to be taken at least from four
to five yards from the ground. If they are cut on a level with the earth
the plant would be entirely ruined ; perhaps because the shoots, being

332 STATISTICS OF THE

entirely stripped, would no longer be preserved from the burning rays of
the sun ; or because the branches and the leaves, which grow in abundance
round the foot of the plant, cannot receive nourishment any longer from
the air, and have, therefore, none to furnish to the roots. I state this
opinion without confidently asserting it ; but it is certain that, in order to
preserve a plantation of bamboos, and to have abundant crops of them,
the precautions I have pointed out must be adopted.

I shall terminate this sketch by some observations on the Buffalo, which
is the faithful companion of the Indian in all his toils.

XIII.
THE BUFFALO.

The buffalo, when domesticated, is an animal of more docility, and which
during its life renders more services to man than does the ox. This
benefit depends on its being tamed when young — that is, when only a year
old, and then it may be left to the guidance of a child of eight or ten
years ; but if it is allowed to live untamed until it is three years old, it
becomes too restive and wicked. It is quite certain that the tame buffalo
will never do the child any injury, for its instinct is such that it knows there
is no bad treatment for it to fear from a weak creature. In strength it is
superior to the ox ; its food is of the coarsest kind, it eats all kinds of
herbs, even those that are rejected by the more delicate beasts. The
buffalo goes to seek them in the plains, on the mountains, and even at
the bottom of every kind of water, where he browses, when the heat forces
him to take refuge therein. The Indian associates the buffalo with all his
work ; with the buffalo he ploughs, and on its back he carries and trans
ports articles across mountains, and by paths that even mules could not
travel. The Indian also mount's his buffalo to cross over considerable
sheets of water ; he places himself, standing, on the animal's broad back, and
supports himself by the leather strap. The docile animal swims patiently,
and often drags behind it the little cart, then floating on the surface.

PHlLirriNE ISLANDS. 333

The services of the buffalo are so numerous that it would be too long
to enumerate them. It is necessary to have lived among the Indians, and
to have carried on tillage with them, in order to appreciate, and to know
thoroughly, the great difference between the buffalo and the ox.

The female buffalo, being little employed in work, gives a great quantity
of milk, which contains a much stronger quantity of butter than that of
our cows. Excellent cheese is made from it.

In fine, another eminent service which the buffalo renders is, that ho
becomes a powerful means of disinfecting the marshy districts. The buffalo
is, as it were, amphibious ; he spends the night while feeding on the
plains, and in the day-time, during the heats, he is in the marshy spots ;
browsing on the river brinks, and at the bottom of the water ; everywhere
any plants grow he destroys them, by continually stirring up the muddy
bottoms ; he causes the noxious animals to perish that are to be found
therein, and changes at last the nature of the marsh, which, when
frequented by troops of buffaloes, no longer exhales those pestiferous gasses
which are the source of the marsh fevers.

P. DE LA GIRONIERE.

AGEICULTUEAL IMPLEMENTS

USED IN THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

I.— THE INDIAN PLOUGH.

It is exceedingly simple : it is composed of four pieces of wood
(1, 2, 3, 4), which the most unhandy ploughman can put together; the
mould board and share, which are of cast iron (5 and (5), are sold in the
Philippines for half a dollar.

The lightness and simplicity of this plough render it easy to be used in
every kind of cultivation, and in the plantations divided into rows, such
as those of tobacco, maize, sugar-canes, &c. It is used with great advan
tage, not only for cutting down weeds, but also for giving to each row a
ploughing, which is serviceable to the plantation, and which is less costly and
quicker than simple weeding with the mattock.

AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS.

335

II.— YOKE FOR THE BUFFALOES.

The yoke of the buffalo is of the simplest
and most commodious kind. It consists
solely of a piece of wood, bent so as to suit
in its shape to the withers of the animal ;
it is worn on its neck, extending to the
middle of the shoulder, and is fastened
under the neck by a piece of twisted liana-
or by a piece of rope ; at the two ends of this piece of wood the traces are
fastened. Buffaloes are always yoked one after the other, like the horses
of the public waggons.

III.-LILIT, OR THE INDIAN SICKLE.

With the crook the rice is caught, which being drawn
into the corner makes it easy to take a good handful of
it with the left hand ; the crook is then moved a little for
ward, by making a slight movement with the hand, which
loosens it ; and by the same movement the steel blade
comes into contact with the straw, and then by drawing
the crook towards you, the handful in the left hand is cut
by one stroke.

IV.— THE COMB HARROW.

1

This implement is used exclusively in the cultivation of aquatic rice :
for the purpose of reducing the ground to a state of liquid mud. The cross
bar (1) is of wood, and the teeth (2) are of wrought-iron.

336

AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS.

V.— A GUILIGEN, OR HAND-MILL.

A sort of hand-mortar for sepa
rating the rice from its husks (1
and 2) ; it represents two truncated
cones, made of bamboos woven to
gether like a basket. Each cone is
separated near the middle by a* bam
boo division, and the space at the
side of the head is filled with well-
beaten clay ; in this clay are in
serted, to a considerable depth,
several little boards of palm wood, as
broad as the middle finger, one third of an inch in thickness, and four inches
in length. They are so placed as almost to touch each other, and in rows,
like a mill-stone which has been just picked. These two cones, when so
ready, are placed one over the other by the top, and the upper one is
turned by means of a wrench (3) on the lower one, and the rice
passing between the two grinders is slightly brayed, and nothing is wanted
but a few strokes of a pestle, for it to be completely skinned and to show its
beautiful white colour.

VI.— THE MORTAR.

This form of mortar is found in every Indian cabin,
where it is daily in requisition for pounding the rice
consumed by the occupants.

Luzon, the name of the principal island of the
Philippines, is derived from, or rather is a corrup
tion of, the word Lugon, signifying a "mortar."

APPENDIX.

TESTIMONY OF M. GABRIEL LAFOND.

IN our own time, a Frenchman, whose name merits an honour
able distinction, has rendered an immense service to Manilla, by
introducing and perfecting the culture of coffee in the colony.
This meritorious individual is M. Paul Proust de La Gironiere,
my countryman and my friend.

M. de La Gironiere, born at Nantes, and connected with the
principal merchants of that city, left his native place in 1818, as
surgeon on board the Victprine, fitted out by his uncle for Man
illa. Seduced by the natural beauties of the country, he made
a second voyage there in the following year ; established himself,
practised medicine, married the widow of the Marquis de Las
Salinas, and eventually, having acquired a considerable estate
on the borders of the Laguna, he summoned his elder brother to
assist him in working it.

In 1828, the Spanish government, which had lost its American
possessions, felt the necessity of taking vigorous measures for the
development of its remaining colonies. Cuba was then at the
height of its prosperity ; and the same agricultural and commercial
results were anxiously hoped for the Philippines. A royal decree

338 APPENDIX.

instituted various prizes for the encouragement of the culture of
indigo, cocoa, cinnamon, cloves, tea, and coffee. Amongst these
prizes, one of eight thousand piasters,* was promised to any one who
would plant and ripen sixty thousand square feet of coffee. M. de
La Gironiere entered the field as a competitor, and sent to the
Isle of Bourbon for M. Adolphe Delaunay, an experienced colonial
agriculturist, to whom he intrusted the direction of the new
plantations. In this enterprise he had to surmount obstacles of
all kinds : want of hands, want of even pecuniary aid, fruitless
experiments, the ravages occasioned by buffaloes, by wild boars,
by stags, by monkeys, added to which, the devastation caused by
clouds of locusts, similar to those of Egypt. He was likewise
subjected to the jealous feelings of other colonists, who constantly
endeavored to thwart his efforts ; nevertheless, aided by intelligent
assistants, his perseverance eventually enabled him to succeed in
conquering every obstacle. He drew around him a large popu
lation, he built villages, he constructed store-houses, and a beau
tiful residence : in a word, he changed an unproductive soil into
a fertile and magnificent property ; and, finally, obtained the prize
of eight thousand piasters, which were paid him by Signor Enriquez
the representative of the Spanish government. M. de La Gironiere
will no doubt find imitators ; the prosperity of his wide domain
will awaken the apathetic inhabitants of the Philippines ; and this
example of the power and influence of a single human will, firm
and enlightened, cannot fail to effect beneficial results.

Jala- Jala, washed by the limpid waters of the Laguna, is capable
of transporting, by means of barges, the produce of its harvests
to the warehouses of Manilla, or even on board the vessels destined
to convey the same to China, to India, or to Europe Its situation
is admirable, and one of the finest of the entire colony. The in
terest inspired by its creation, the vast labour thereby necessitated
and the admirable results which have crowned the same, drew the
numerous foreigners, and especially Frenchmen, travelling in these
distant parts to Jala- Jala, where they were always received with
the noblest and the most generous hospitality.

* The piaste. is equal to 3s. Id. British currency.

APPENDIX.

Unfortunately domestic afflictions caused M. de La Gironierc
to leave a country where he had lost his wife, his children, and
his brother. Arrived in France, the government, upon the pro
position of M. Barrot, consul-general at Manilla, and of the brave
Marshal Soult, who knew how to reward civic as well as military
courage, accorded him the decoration of the Legion of Honour ; a
recompense deservedly merited. But Spain owes more to Paul de
La Gironiere than France. The latter had regarded him as one
of her children who has carried civilisation to the other end of
the world ; will Spain ever recognise the services he has rendered
her by the admirable perseverance he displayed with regard to
Philippine agriculture ?

II.

TESTIMONY OF H. HAMILTON LINDSAY, ESQ,

WESTDEAN HOUSE, CHICHESTER.
August 16th, 1853.

GENTLEMEN,

In reply to your inquiry as to whether I

have any notes relative to my visit to the Lake of Socolme, in com
pany with M. de La Gironiere, I am sorry to say that I can find none.
I have, however, a vivid recollection of that very curious spot,
which is quite at your disposal, should you like to insert it in the
translation of La Gironiere's work you are about to publish.

All the natives of the neighbouring villages held this lake in
superstitious terror, and declared that any one venturing on it
would inevitably be devoured by the hordes of caymans which
frequented it, so that when in one of our excursions we proposed to
explore it, not one of our boatmen would come with us, we had
therefore to go to a village many miles distant to engage a crew.
A single canoe certainly might have been exposed to danger ; so to
obviate any risk, we had two large canoes hauled over the mound
— about a quarter of a mile in width, and eighty to a hundred
feet high — which separates Socolme from the Laguna ; and, having
launched our canoes, we made a platform over them, and lashed
them strongly together ; and then with a party composed of La
Gironiere, myself, and a Chinese servant, with eight or ten stout
Tagalocs, armed with four double-barrelled guns, pikes, cutlasses,

APPENDIX.

341

and axes, to repel any attempt at boarding, we proceeded to ex
plore. The number and size of the brutes which we saw cer
tainly in some measure justified the reputation of the lake,
though they seemed more afraid of us than we of them. As wo
proceeded quietly round the banks at least thirty rushed down
into the water, we keeping up a constant fire, though without
succeeding in killing any.

The lake itself I should say was less than a mile in diameter,
nearly a perfect circle, and the sides, excepting towards the La-
guna, rising to a considerable height, and covered writh trees of
a gigantic size. Its depth rapidly shelved from five to forty
fathoms about one hundred yards from the shore, the centre
having a uniform depth of forty to fifty fathoms. It is evidently
the crater of an extinct volcano, the whole adjacent country be
ing volcanic, but its curiosity consists in its bottom being at least
twenty fathoms below the level of the sea.

I happen, among some old papers, to find a description of our
adventures in the Cave of San-Matteo, which was written the
day after our visit, and is therefore more accurate and circum
stantial than that of my friend, evidently wrritten from imperfect
recollection, many years after the event. I now forward to you
the original rough copy, as sent home at the time to my friends
in England, and, if you think it worthy of a place in your book,
you arc quite at liberty to publish it.

La Gironiere's book brings back to my mind many pleasant
recollections of early youth, arid of two summers spent in ram
bling over the beautiful island of Manilla ; and it gives me great
pleasure to have an opportunity of bearing testimony to the kind
and generous hospitality I met with at Jala-Jala, which was my
head-quarters for many months. There are certainly some strange
stories of adventures in my inend's book, to the general accuracy
of some — in which I was a participator — I can bear testimony ;
others, especially those relating to the extraordinary gallantry
and daring displayed by him at the time of the cholera, and con
sequent massacre of Europeans at Manilla, in 1820, were fresh
in the recollection of many at the time of my first acquaintance

r

342 APPENDIX.

with him. No foreigner enjoyed more completely the esteem
and confidence of all classes in Manilla — Spaniards, Mestizos,
and Tagals — than " Don Pablo" and no man can be better
qualified to give authentic and valuable information regarding
the resources and agriculture of the island than himself. I
therefore look with much interest to the additions promised on
these points in the volume you are about to publish.

I have the honour to remain,

Your obedient servant,

H. HAMILTON LINDSAY.

To MESSRS. VlZETELLY AND Co.,

FLEET STR.EET.

ACCOUNT OF A VISIT TO THE CAVE OF SAN-MATTEO, IN THE
NEIGHBOURHOOD OF MANILLA.

Manilla, May 26th, 1830.

We have just returned from a visit to the Cave of San-Mat-
teo, which has long been considered as one of the most interest
ing objects of natural curiosity to be seen in the Philippines ;
but, as we may consider ourselves as the first discoverers of the
wonders to be seen in the innermost recesses of this extraordi
nary cavern, I will forthwith commit to paper the particulars of
our journey while they are yet fresh in my memory.

"We left Manilla on the afternoon of the 24th May, and a
pleasant drive of an hour and a-half brought us to Mariquines,
a pretty village, situated in a fertile valley, which narrows gra
dually as you continue your journey towards Sari-Matteo, another
large village in the centre of the plain, and which has nothing
remarkable to distinguish it. We slept here, and, having made

APPENDIX. 343

our arrangements for horses, guides, &c., at six the following
morning started on our expedition.

As you proceed the valley grows narrower, the mountains on
cither side increase in height and grandeur, and you enjoy a
beautiful view of the mountain Pariimitan, in which the cave
is situated. On arriving at the village of Balete, we crossed the
river, which flows smoothly and silently betwixt high and rich
ly-wooded banks. Our path was in some places barely practi
cable for horses, winding along the rocky banks of the river,
which we had to ford four times before we arrived at the place
where we had sent our provisions for breakfast.

The spot where we halted was one which requires the pencil
of an artist to give an adequate description of. Directly in front
of us were two stupendous mountains, which, from their nearly
perpendicular sides, seemed to have been torn asunder by some
violent convulsion of nature, and between them flowed the Rio
di San-Matteo, no longer calm and placid as before, but foaming
and bubbling betwixt huge rocks of white marble. The scene
was so striking, that — although to my infinite regret, I have no
idea of handling the pencil — I endeavored, by the assistance of
a few outlines, and writing down where were to be rocks, wood,
and water, to carry away with me what might enable another
to delineate the scene.

I must not forget here to make honourable mention of the de
licious fish with which we were regaled, as there is something
peculiar both in the mode of catching and dressing them. The
water of the river is clear as crystal, and in some places very
deep, and when the fish are playing on the surface, an Indian
dives to the bottom and, rising directly under them, catches the
fish in his hand with surprising dexterity ; and the mode of dress
ing them is one certainly deserving the admiration of the wholo
race of gourmands. A few joints of the green bamboo, about
two feet long, are cut, into which the fish is thrust, with some
leaves of an herb much resembling sorrel, a few pimentos, and
other spices, and a little water is also put in ; the mouth of the
cane is then stuffed with leaves, and it is put into the middle

344 APPENDIX.

of a hot fire ; as soon as the bamboo begins to burn, the fish is
dressed, and I will defy any restorateur of Paris or Amsterdam
to produce a better water-souchy than we eat that morning.

All this however caused delay, and it was past ten before we
proceeded towards the object of our journey. My only compa
nion was a French gentleman, M. de La Gironiere. We had
once more to cross the river at the narrowest part of the gorge
betwixt the mountains, of which I despair to give an adequate
description — it was nature in its wildest state. The dark moun
tains frowned perpendicularly over us to the height of near two
thousand feet, and the river foamed arid rushed in numberless
cascades through the enormous masses of white marble, which
seemed in vain to endeavour to check its progress. It was a
scene which I would gladly have ridden fifty miles to see, even
if I had had no other object, and in the time of the rains, the
torrent must be awful.

We crossed the river, stepping from rock to rock, and after
scrambling about a hundred and fifty feet by the aid of rocks
and trees, we found ourselves at the mouth of the cavern, ac
companied by about twenty Indians, all provided with long
torches made of split bamboos ; we also had not forgot to bring
wax candles, which afterwards did us good service ; a line of
twenty yards to measure the cave ; flint, steel, and matches, in
case of accidents ; but, alas ! we forgot what was of much im
portance, and which no traveller who explores mountains ought
ever to be unprovided with — a hammer arid cold iron chisel.

We entered the cave, and proceeded accurately to measure its
depth, of which I had heard such contradictory reports at Manilla.
My companion walked twenty yards into the cave, and, as the
extremity of the string checked him, stopped and marked on a
slip of paper ; I then passed him another twenty yards and so on.

For the first two hundred yards the cavern varies from seven
to twelve and twenty feet in height, and about twelve in breadth ;
the roof and sides are composed of a kind of soft calcareous soap-
stone, with occasional layers of loose stones and sand ; at two
hundred and fifty yardr our way was impeded by large rocks, over

APPENDIX. 345

which we climbed, and oil the right side found a precipice, of
which we had been previously warned. We threw in large stones
which fell in a pool of water ; others which we threw in a slant
ing direction, and with more violence, escaped the well, and we
heard them bounding from rock to rock till the sound wras lost ;
having no ropes we could not descend to examine further, but
proceeded on our way.

Here we began to experience the greatest annoyance from the
torches of our Indians, which, from the dense smoke they emitted
consumed the air, and impeded our respiration . We endeavoured
in vain to persuade them to extinguish them, and finding remon
strance useless, I got hold of all I could and threw them into the
chasm ; upon which many of the fellow's got frightened, and left
us, and we were thereby quit of two nuisances at once, as the
noise they made was intolerable.

The cavern here enlarges, and becomes more irregular ; there
are huge detached rocks, through which runs a stream of clear
water frequently above our knees, in which I observed some cray
fish. Occasionally we had to clamber over masses of rock, twenty
feet in height, and carefully descend their slippery sides. The
scene was truly worthy of Salvator Rosa. The bright glare of
the torches which disturbed myriads of large bats or flying foxes
from their holes, and illuminated the dusky vault of the cavern,
and the dark forms of the half-naked Indians, formed quite a coup-
dc-theatre of the grandest kind.

At last, after having counted six hundred yards, we reached
what had hitherto been considered the end of the cavern. The
stream whose course we had followed here- formed a kind of basin
five or six feet in diameter and issued forth from a hole in the
rock, which descended till it touched the water, and formed an
insurmountable barrier.

We found, in a cleft in the rock, the broken wine bottles which
had been left ten years before by my present companion, and
several names cut in the rock. There were here, and in various
parts of the cavern, some stalactites, but of a dirty brown colour.

This seemed the termination of our journey, and as wre were

346 APPENDIX .

•

nearly stifled by the smoke of the torches, we were thinking of a
return, when rny companion — who had all through seemed bent
upon making some discoveries — descried a small stream of water
descending through a narrow aperture in the rock above us, and
immediately commenced exploring it. The Indians all declared
that it led no further, and that it was impossible to penetrate it ;
but M. de La Gironiere was already out of sight, and calling on me
to follow him, which I readily did. Only one of the Indians wrould
accompany us, and a Chinese boy whom I had brought with me.

I now found myself climbing up a narrow hole, like the funnel
of a chimney, composed of irregular rocks, wet with the constant
dripping of water ; sometimes perpendicular, sometimes slanting
or horizontal ; at times so narrow that it required the assistance
of my feet and arms to force my way through, at others large
enough to stand up and barely touch the roof with my hand ; but
conceive my delight at feeling a fresh and pure air blowing directly
in our faces, so strong as to make us fear for our candles. Fresh
ened and revived, and animated by the hope that wre were going
to penetrate to the other side of the mountain, we sat down a few
moments to repose ourselves, and examine the spot wre had attained.

The cavern had here enlarged to eight or nine feet in height
and more in breadth ; it was no longer wet and dirty like the
previous part, but the ground and sides were covered with beau
tiful stalactites of the purest white, forming numerous little pyra
mids, like loaves of sugar. After a few moments' repose wre pro
ceeded exploring, using the precaution always to have three
candles lit at once, in case of accidents. On reaching about
eighty yards from where we left our Indians, we again thought
that we were at the end of the cave. A vault or fissue of the
rock rose above us to a height that we could not distinguish the
top ; most of the rocks were covered with beautiful incrustations
and pyramids, of which I broke several to take with me.

On examining this cavern minutely, I discovered to the left
a small hole through which I could barely pass rny head, which
seemed to lead farther, and enlarge as it rose. Here began our
difficulties. "We longed to get through and pursue our researches,

APPENDIX. 347

but wo had no tools wherewith to enlarge the aperture, perseve
rance, however, does wonders, and we commenced chipping the
rock away as we could with stones. The situation was also
awkward as before arriving at the hole ; the rocks were so nar
row that only one could work at a time, and there was no room
for the arm to give force to the blow.

However, it was soon sufficiently enlarged for my Chinese
boy to crawl through, and we sent him in with a candle to report ;
he made good his entrance, ascended a kind of chimney, and
we lost sight of him, but in a few moments he returned, shouting
with joy that he had found a large room all white. I redoubled
my efforts, and, at the expense of numerous scarifications of my
knees and shoulders, forced my way, and clambered up through
narrow rocks about ten feet, when I found myself suddenly in a
large vault which rivalled the famed Grotto of Antiparos.

The ground and a great part of the walls were formed of one
mass of pure white or darker stalactites, but all glittering like dia
monds, and covered with shining pebbles of every shape and size,
with which — like Aladdin in the cave — I instantly commenced fill
ing my pockets. The farther extremity of the grotto was lost in
darkness, but the most striking object of all remains to be described.

Exactly over the spot from which I emerged, as from the
bowels of the earth, rose a pyramid, white and glittering like the
sunbeams on frosted snow, in shape and form like the altar of a
church, rising with pillars and branches of stalactites of eveiy
imaginable shape to the height of nearly thirty feet. The effect
was indescribable. Byron's fabled cave of the Island was rer ' 'zed
before my eyes —

Wide it was and high,
And showed a self-born Gothic canopy ;
The arch upreared by Nature's architect,
The architrave some earthquake might erect,
The buttress from some mountain's bosom hurled,
When the poles crushed, and water was the world ;
Or hardened from some earth-absorbing fire
While yet the globe reeked from its funeral pyre.
The fretted pinnacle, the aisle, the nave,
Were there, all scooped by darkness from her cave.

348 APPENDIX .

There with a little tinge of phantasy,
Fantastic faces moped and mowed on high :
And there a mitre or a shrine would fix
The eye upon its seeming crucifix.
Thus Nature played with the stalactites,
And built herself a chapel.

I am far from being a devotee, but I confess that for some mo
ments I felt overpowered by mingled feelings of awe and venera
tion, which can only be felt, not described. It \vas not fear ! The
violent exercise and the situation I had attained in so singular a
way had excited my feelings to a high degree, and rny reflections
were not ill-suited to the place and circumstances.

We had penetrated nearly eight hundred yards into the very
entrails of the earth, to a spot now for the first time profaned by
human footsteps, where Nature herself seemed to have raised an
altar to the honour of the Divinity. The only outlet was a nar
row aperture, which a single stone might block up for ever. At
that same hour on the very day before, an earthquake had shaken
every house in Manilla to its foundations, and the end of the very
grotto itself seemed choked by an ccroulement of stones and earth,
evidently of very recent date. I do not believe that any man,
even of the strongest nerves, could have prevented some reflec
tions of a serious nature from passing through his mind.

But all this while I have forgotten my poor compagnon dc
voyage, who, being unfortunately an inch or two broader across the
shoulders than me, was exhausting himself in vain efforts to force
his way through, and almost crying with vexation and disappoint
ment. I went to his aid, and we hammered away alternately till
the hole was sufficiently enlarged ; but still he did not get through
without some severe bruises ; and I confess I was not without con
siderable uneasiness as to how he would get back again on our
return, as the difficulty of our exit, feet foremost, would be con
siderably increased ; but reflections were useless, all we had to do
was to employ our time to the best advantage, and endeavour to
make farther discoveries while our candles lasted.

The grotto might be generally from forty to sixty feet in height,
but in the clefts of the rock the summit could not be distinguished ;

APPENDIX. 349

in breadth about twenty yards, and forty or fifty in length, but at
the farther end a great part of the roof and sides had lately fallen
in : neither was it covered with stalactites, but consisted of masses
of common rock, mixed with earth and sand, of which I brought
away specimens. "We endeavoured to climb up, but having reached
about twenty feet were obliged to relinquish the attempt, from the
extreme peril of dislodging the loose pieces of rock, and bringing it
all down together. At about thirty yards from the entrance we
found a fissure in the rock, from which issued a stream, in appear
ance like a frozen rivulet covered with snow ; the sides of the rock
were of the same, and covered with numerous pendent icicles of
various size. The want of a hammer and mallet prevented our
penetrating farther, but it is highly probable that this leads to other
grottoes perhaps more wonderful than the one we were in.

We had now passed nearly four hours in the cave, and, giving
up all prospect of getting farther, we began to collect specimens of
the various curious obj ects with which we were surrounded. Here
again, for want of proper implements, we were obliged to destroy ten
times more than we carried away. The walls were covered with the
most beautiful white flakes, j utting out like the drapery of a curtain,
from the height of eight or ten feet, which we were obliged to dash
to pieces to obtain a specimen, and it was not without a feeling of
sacrilege that I broke away a large fragment from the altar. Having
loaded ourselves with as much as we could carry, we commenced
our return. My friend went first, and, after a struggle of several
minutes — of which he felt the effects severely afterwards — he
forced his way through, and relieved my mind from considerable
anxiety. We followed without much difficulty, and returned to
where we had left our Indians, who were in great alarm as to
what had become of us, though none ventured to come in search.

We made the best of our way to the mouth of the cave, and,
having descended to the river, you may conceive how we enjoyed a
bottle of Bordeaux, &c., which we had brought with us, and I
quitted the cave of San-Matteo, carrying away with me recollec
tions of its wrondcrs which will not speedily be effaced.

350 APPENDIX.

Manilla, June 2nd, 1830.

Our curiosity was so strongly excited by what we had seen
that since writing the above we have made another visit to the
cavern, in hopes of making further discoveries, and have to
thank our good fortune that we have returned in safety.

We this time went provided with pickaxes and hammers, bags
to carry away specimens — in short, every implement that we
could think of; and three days after our last visit, a party of
four — consisting of M. de La Gironiere, two other gentlemen,
and myself — returned, resolutely bent on forcing a passage to
the other side of the mountain, if possible. We had also profited
by our experience, and had an ample supply of wax candles, in
lieu of those villanous torches which had so nearly stifled us.

Since our last visit I had also read in a French encyclopedia
Tournefort's account of the Grotto of Antiparos, which, although
on a larger scale, has much analogy with that of San-Matteo. The
most singular coincidence is that the same idea should strike the
imagination in the grottoes both of Antiparos and San-Matteo,
namely, the extraordinary resemblance of the stalactites to an altar.

M. de Nointet, the French ambassador to the Porte, who
visited Antiparos in 1760 (I forget the exact date), went so far
as to cause high mass to be celebrated before it, and had a sump
tuous entertainment served there to more than a hundred people.

We resolved in some degree to imitate his proceedings, at
least as far as carrying with us a cold dinner and a hamper of
excellent wine, with which we proposed to regale ourselves in the
grotto, and to leave some relics as an encouragement to future
visitors, to whom it would be no unwelcome discovery to find a
few bottles of Champagne and Chateau-Margaux ; but all our
projects of amusement ran rather a narrow escape of coming to
a ratal termination. We proceeded as before — accompanied by
about a dozen Indians — to the basin of water, and commenced,
one by one, to ascend the narrow aperture before described.

The Indian who accompanied us on our former visit went first,
and I followed immediately after him. On arriving at a very
narrow and nearly perpcrdicular pass, Florentine, after he had

ascended, called on me to wait a few moments, and he would en
large the aperture. Instead of chipping away the corners of the
rock, he had the imprudence to strike some violent blows with a
pi. kaxe at the rocks above him. After a few blows we were startled
by hearing him utter a loud shriek, and, at the same instant, we all
shuddered to see huge masses of rock come tumbling down through
the aperture, nearly immediately over our heads. For a few short
moments the feeling of suspense was dreadful : they were moments
which none present will soon forget. At length, thank God ! the
noise ceased, and I called out to Florentine to know what had
happened, bat received no answer. At the same moment one of our
companions below was taken suddenly ill from alarm, or some other
cause, and called out for assistance to quit the cave. La Gironiere
went to his aid, and I forced my way up through the aperture to
assist the Indian, and my alarm was great on seeing him stretched
on the ground without any signs of life. I raised him up, and as
certained that no bones were broken, and threw water in his face
to revive him, but it was a quarter of an hour before he came to
himself sufficiently to explain what had happened.

It appeared that, on dislodging a small rock, several larger ones
that were supported by it had fallen in from the roof, giving him
some severe bruises, and he, imagining that the whole vault was
about to fall in and crush him, had fainted, more from fright than
any injury he had received. I was now joined by La Gironiere,
and proceeded to examine the state of affairs, the result of which
made us doubly thank Providence for our preservation.

We now remarked what had escaped our observation in the
ardour of our first discovery, namely, that the watercourse we were
in was formed by loose detached rocks, which had fallen in from
the roof, which was about six feet high, and, on examination, we
found that the whole mass was freshly cracked in various parts,
and in a most perilous state. A very singular circumstance oc
curred to the pickaxe which caused the accident. When the Indian
in his alarm dropped it, it fell on one side, and I found it support
ing a rock of at least four hundred-weight, which had been dis
lodged, and, by a singular good fortune, had at the moment found

352 APPENDIX.

a support in the iron of the pickaxe, which was firmly wedged
there, — I would not have removed it for much. Feeling convinced
that there was considerable danger in proceeding further, we re
turned to the basin with our wounded Indian to consult.

Having there refreshed ourselves, and recovered from our
fright, the idea of coming so far for nothing was not agreeable,
and we determined at least to return to the grotto, taking care to
try no more experiments of the pickaxe nature. We passed
cautiously through the dangerous aperture, carefully avoiding to
dislodge any of the loose rocks, nor did we attempt to enlarge the
hole at the entrance of the grotto. M. de La Gironiere had suffered
so much from his last entrance that he did not again attempt it,
and I confess I could not pursue my researches in it with the same
pleasure I formerly did. I examined the fissure at the farther end
of the cavern, of which I could not see the termination, and
which evidently enlarged, but not sufficiently to make it practic
able for us to enter ; neither did we think it wise, nor had we
time enough to try to make it possible for us to force our way
through.

The system of the French naturalist, M. de Tournefort, relative
to the vegetation of stones or stalactites in the Grotto of Anti-
paros as far as my humble opinion goes, is not at all borne out by
facts here. I possess little or no knowledge of natural history, but
the observations I made convinced me that all the stalactites were
formed by the droppings of the calcareous water. The extremity
of the drapery of stalactite was always moistened, and evidently in
the process of formation ; and the beautiful pyramids on the ground
were found only in places where the roof did not exceed six or eight
feet in height, and there was always a corresponding one attached
to the roof, from which the water was continually dropping. The
ground was also covered with beautiful stones, the nucleus of which
was a black pebble, and the incrustation formed round them by
the water resembled the crystalised sugar-plums, or dragccs, so
strongly, that a few days afterwards, at a ball in Manilla, I filled a
small plate with them, wrapped up in paper, which deceived all
the young ladies till they tried to eat them.

AITENDIX. oOo

"We had visited the cave in the dryest time of the year, just
before the commencement of the rains, during which the formation
of stalactites must be much more active ; but still it must have
been the work of many ages to form masses of such magnitude as
the altar, — the depth of solid alabaster must have been five or six
feet.

Having loaded ourselves with specimens of every description as
heavily as the very inconvenient road we had to pass through W7ould
permit, we once more returned, and on our way stopped and looked
into several deep chasms which had never been explored, but which
doubtless will merit attention. I descended for about twenty feet
into one, by a kind of natural steps cut in the rock, and had we
been provided with ropes might have gone further. The air was
perfectly pure and free. At a hundred and fifty yards from the
entrance there is another branch as long as the principal one, in
which we penetrated near two hundred yards. In short, it appears
that the whole mountain is intersected and excavated in all direc
tions ; hitherto, however, no one has taken the trouble to explore it ;
indeed, the principal part of the whole island of Manilla is still a
terra incognita, even to the Spaniards. The Indians are timid
and superstitious in the extreme.

They have a curious legend respecting the cavern, which has a
singular resemblance to the German tale of the " Three Brothers,"
in the Hartz Mountains.

An Indian one day entered the cave to catch bats, with the
wings of which they compound some sort of medicine. On
arriving at the stream of water he saw a venerable old man on the
other side, who offered his hand to help him across the stream.
The Indian was rather shy of his new acquaintance, and held out
the end of his stick, which the old man took, and it instantly turned
into charcoal. Upon this the Indian became anxious to return, and
thanking the old man for his politeness, told him he did not mean
to go any further that day.

The old man then offered him three stones, and, to remove any
fear of their burning his fingers, deposited them in the stream.
The Indian took them, and retreated as quick as he could, without

354 APPENDIX.

looking behind him ; and, on examining the stones at the mouth of
the cave, to his surprise he found them to be three masses of pure
gold. The story did not go any further, as to what use he made
of his riches. The old Indian who told me this story said it hap
pened long before the arrival of the Spaniards.

H. H. L.

IIL

TESTIMONY OF M. DUMONT D'URVILLE.

residence of M. tie La Gironiere, which we reached in
the afternoon, is situated at the extremity of the lake. There,
upon a neck of land which overlooks Santa-Cruz, the chief place
of the province, is built, in the European style, a commodious
dwelling, having two stories. Large warehouses, a sugar factory
in full operation, other establishments of lesser importance, and a
Tagal village are grouped around the habitation. The wrhole of
this, which is called " Jala- Jala," is the property of a fellow-
countryman, M. de La Gironiere. Jala- Jala has been created,
organised, watched over, and christened by him. A few years
previously this spot consisted of a wild forest and an unwhole
some swamp, with here and there the cabins occupied by robbers
arid pirates. At the present time it is covered with fertile plan
tations, a profitable manufactory, a tranquil and industrious vil
lage. The native population, drawn thither by the existing
prosperity, daily increases, while the clearing arid cultivating of
the surrounding land advances in due proportion. Thus to one
of our countrymen is due the merit of having taken the initia
tive in reclaiming and fertilising this Spanish soil.

" And to accomplish this, how many difficulties, and how much
jealousy had to be overcome. An inhabitant of Manilla since
1814, M. de La Gironiere only succeeded in disarming the local
antipathies that existed by a long residence in the country, and by
a Creole marriage. What had been until then obstinately refused

356 APPENDIX.

even to a native was accorded to him, a Frenchman, who was
confident of his own powers and of the fecundity of the soil.

" We met with the most cordial hospitality at Jala- Jala, from
an excellent man possessed of many nohle qualities. The sup
per was gay and abundantly served. We chatted of Favea arid
of Luzon, and drank in excellent claret to our future voyages,
and to the prosperity of the model farm.

" The following day our excursions into the interior re-com
menced. Our host gave us jackets and pantaloons of coarse
cloth ; he caused us to cover our heads with a salacotc, which
served as a protection as well against the rain as the sun. Thus
dressed, we went to visit Santa-Cruz, a pretty little town situate
on the borders of the lake, in a plain covered with crops. The
convent, the church, the white houses, which were detached oil
the woody hills, soon attracted the eyes of all. Santa-Cruz is
the chief market-place for the brisk sale of palm wine, and of
cocoa spirits ; it is inhabited by Tagals and Chinese ; the former
being agriculturists, the latter dealers. Unfortunately the site is
not healthy, as the inundations in the rainy seasons cause fever
and cholera.

" At a further distance, and in a delightful position, is the cele
brated little village of Los Banos, which first attracted Europeans
to the province of Laguna. As its name indicates, this village
possesses baths of mineral water, the virtues of which were
formerly held in high repute at Manilla, and cures were quoted,
in support of this opinion, of such frequency, and of such an
extraordinary nature, as to confound even the medical practition
ers. The mountain, on the side of which this village is situate,
is evidently the production of a volcano, and the source spring
ing from it is at the temperature of boiling water. Although
Sonnerat assures us that he saw fishes alive in it, we must, with
other modern observers, place this assertion on the list of tra
vellers' fables. Renouard de Sainte-Croix has proved that no
plant could vegetate therein. Every animal plunged into it
loses the skin in a moment. An egg becomes quite hard-boiled
in four minutes.

APPENDIX. OO/

" The waters of Los Banos appear to be efficacious principally
in diseases of the skin. In former times it was the fashion at
Manilla to go and spend a month in the fine season at these hot-
baths, where beyond all doubt, as in all other thermal localities,
the salubrity of the air, the exercise of the body, the absence of
all broils, whether demestic or commercial, a regular and me
thodical life, and healthy and gentle mode of treatment of di
seases, produced on the bathers better effects than did the curative
properties of the waters. But during the last fifty years this
pilgrimage for health has fallen into disuse. The English inva
sion in 1762, the appearance of bandits in an island of the lake,
the high price of the baths, their being badly kept — all these
causes had the effect of keeping the crowd away from the hamlet
of Los Banos. Yet there is not to be found in the Pyrenees or in
the Alps a site of such an imposing and beautiful kind. Enor
mous volcanic blocks, with angular and facetted forms, spiral co
lumns, rocky pyramids, bearing on their very topmost crests groups
of trees, of which the age and the names are unknown. In the
rear of this row of forests and of mountains, arise other moun
tains and other forests of a different aspect and character, arid
from a distance exhibit in their great elevation the courses of
their torrents into their broad and deep fissures, where range, in
untamed freedom, buffaloes, wild boars, stags, and negro tribes,
which latter are as savage as stags, wild boars, or buffaloes.

" All these districts appear to have the evident marks of a dila-
ccration ; the sunken peaks show the extinct craters, the black
ened stones bear witness to previous eruptions, and to complete
those symptoms, Luzon itself at different periods trembles on its
basis ; the churches, the convents, the houses at Manilla, topple
and crumble to the level of the earth. The nearest of those an
cient volcanos is a mile from Los Banos. The crater, which
formerly emitted fire, is now filled with greenish stagnant water.
In this little lake, about a league in circumference, are some
gigantic caymans, who there thrive and gambol at their ease,
llcnouard de Sainte-Croix saw one, the length of which ex
ceeded fifty feet.

358 APPENDIX.

" During onr excursion to Los Banos, that which struck us
most was the prodigious quantity of ducks and ducklings, which
were sporting on this part of the lake ; the surface was covered
with them. The cause of this abundance of one kind of birds
was soon understood from knowing the taste of the Tagals, of the
Malays, and of the Chinese, who prefer them to other fowl. But
we were puzzled to find out how such a wonderful quantity could
be hatched ; our guide, however, soon solved the difficulty. To
serve as substitutes for the ovens that are used in China for arti
ficial incubation, the Tagals have employed the agency of human
heat, and they found, among their indolent servants some patient
and steady hatchers. A sort of frame is made for that purpose,
on which light sticks are laid across, well covered with thick
blankets ; the eggs are stowed up in the frame in a regular line,
being laid close to each other, and kept in their places by ashes
which fill up the interstices. The whole is then raised up in a
level position a little over the ground, and the sluggish hatcher
lays himself at length on this strange kind of sofa ; and then he
eats, drinks, and smokes, and chews his betel, taking care not to
injure the fragile shells he is to fecundate.

" Those hatching men are so clever that they follow day by
day the progress of the embryo, and they aid the young bird to
quit the shell, when the time for breaking it has arrived. The
ducklings are scarce out of the shell when they run to the lake,
and dabble in it all the day, and in the evening they hide in the
floating cages, which are erected for them on the beach. The
rearing of ducks is one of the principal branches of industry in
the village of Los Banos and of Santa-Cruz.

" On the following day, which was the last of our pilgrimage,
M. de la Gironiere made arrangements for eur having a partie
de cliassc according to the strictest rules. At break of day we
were awakened by the sounds of the horn, and in a short time
dogs and grooms, huntsmen and servants, carriages, horses, pa
lanquins, were all in movement towards the forest. It was al
most a royal party.

" The hunt began on the woody sides of a hill, marked by such

APPENDIX. 350

difficult paths as to be nearly impassable. We had scarcely got
into it than the dogs started a stag, an elegant and noble animal,
but rather smaller than our fine ones. He came close to Nor-
berg, who took aim, and the stag fell. A mile from thence the
pack gave tongue on finding a new prey, which was a wild boar,
one of the finest ever seen in the forests of Laguna. On this oc
casion the honour of the hunt was mine. Shortly afterwards we
descended from the crest of the mountains into a plain cut up by
copses and marshes, which is the usual haunt of the wild buffaloes,
that are the most dangerous animals of these countries, duiet,
obedient, and even enduring when once tamed, the buffalo is ter
rible in the state of nature. The sight of a man maddens the
brute so that its eyes glow, and its nostrils throw out its fiery
breath. The unfortunate hunter who misses his aim never es
capes : he is lost. No horse in full gallop can reach an adver
sary sooner ; no sanguinary beast maintains such rancour and
blood-thirstiness. If he reaches you he pierces you with his sharp
horns, he tramples on the earth, he tortures you while you are
alive, and he insults you when dead. Even a tree can afford no
security against his pursuit, for as he cannot reach his victim on
the boughs, the buffalo becomes the jailer before he becomes the
executioner ; he persists in vengeance, and takes his station as an
obstinate sentinel close to the tree of asylum, and never quits his
post until exhausted by hunger and thirst. M. Laplace relates
that a Tagal of Jala-Jala, while at work in cutting down wood,
had the good fortune to escape in a strange manner from a buf
falo which had for some time kept him blockaded in a lofty palm
tree. Forced by hunger, the woodman had the courage to come
down from the tree, and to begin the fight singly with his for
midable antagonist. On reaching the ground, the buffalo attacked,
but the man avoided the horns by nimbly jumping round the
brute, and at length found means with his right hand to seize it
by the tail, while with his knife in his left he inflicted many
wounds on the sides of the beast. Finding itself thus assailed
the buffalo fled like an arrow, but the courageous Tagal kept his
hold, and let himself be dragged through the brush-wood, over

360

APPENDIX.

the rocks, in the marshes, until he at last fell covered with
mire and blood in the place where his enemy lay dead.

" To tame the wild buffalo the natives lay traps in ditches
covered over with leaves, and when the brute is allowed to quit
the inclosure he is so overcome with hunger, that in his weakness
and exhaustion he lets himself be led to where the tame animals
are feeding, and thus from the example of others he learns the
habits of slavery. The buffalo born in a state of domesticity has
seldom any desire for independence ; the natives even say that
it bears on the neck the marks of the yoke of its dam, which
forms for the wild buffaloes the degrading brand of exclusion and
reprobation.

" Our hunt was accompanied by many incidents too long to be
detailed here : at one time it was a re-roused animal, which en
gaged our attention, at another a picturesque site, then it was a
hamlet, then it was a forest. But a cascade near Jala- Jala was
one of the things that made a deep impression on us. To reach
the spot it was necessary to walk in the ted of the ravine, among
sharp arid slippery rocks. Notwithstanding the dangers and the
unevenness of the way we persisted, and we were fully recom
pensed by the sight of this immense sheet of water, falling down
bet\veen walls of a perpendicular rock, and sloped over with trees
and lianas, that formed themselves into festoons over the abyss.
In this spot there was so much of wild and primitive nature to
be observed, the most remarkable silence in the presence of so
loud a noise, that our admiration, like our attention, was fully
absorbed in the contemplation of the scene. No animals, not
even birds, in a spot where water alone seemed to possess life ;
sometimes, indeed, a bat would dart out from a split in the rock,
and hover for a time in the atmosphere, which was impregnated
Avith a thin rain. There was but one way to get out of the bed
of the torrent, that of the rock, which appeared to be cut quite
perpendicular. The Tagals who accompanied us began the at
tempt. One of them seizing a long liana which hung from the
top to the foot of the granite wall, climbed up, as a mason would
do on his knotted rope. Although we had but little practice in

APPENDIX. 361

this mode of ascent, \vc made the attempt, and by imitating them,
and profiting of the lianas that hung around to aid us, we were
successful. The liana which we saw appeared to us to be the
same as that which abounds in the virgin forests of America.
Its long trunk, which laces itself round the tree and creeps there
every way, is covered with a brown, stringy, and coarse skin.
When it is cut there flows from its greyish interior a limpid
water, without any smell, and not having a disagreeable taste.

" After the great hunt came the little one, which consisted in
some small turtles called, "poniard wounds" from the small
tufts of blood-coloured feathers which they have on their necks.
AYe killed also two monkeys in the thicket, into which they had
retreated, and also a gazelle of the kind which La Perouse de
scribes in his voyage.

" Thus in two days, one of promenade and the other of active
and fatiguing hunting, we explored the greatest and the richest
portion of the district of Laguna ; and there wre found a country
fertile in rice, in pepper, and in indigo ; forests which afford the
finest wood, as wrell for drying as for building ; and we also
learned from the example of a French colonist, the wonderful
advantages which can be drawn from such a soil, from such a
climate, from such water, and from all such nature.

" Delighted with our trip, we bade adieu to our hosts, and got
on board our bark, which speedily took us back to Manilla."

17.

TESTIMONY OF ADMIRAL LAPLACE.

J GLADLY accepted the pressing invitation of M. de La Giromere,
our fellow-countryman, and proprietor of a handsome residence on
the banks of the Laguna, and on the morning of the 1 7th October,
accompanied by Mr. Paris and by Mr. Puissell, an American mer
chant of eminent respectability, and one of my most agreeable
acquaintances at Bidondo, I left Manilla in a small boat, manned
by Tagals in the service of M. de La Gironiere, whose brother
obligingly acted as pilot. To reach our destination we had to ascend
the rapid current of the stream. At nine o'clock we halted at
Pasig, a Tagal village of some importance, which gives its name to
the neighbouring river.

Breakfast was laid out on the grass, and our hunger and good
spirits imparted to it a peculiar relish. The lively remarks of the
party on the social scene around us made the moments fly rapidly.
Before us was a wooden bridge, partly destroyed by time ; around
its ruins were mooted several fishing-boats, with immense nets like
an overhanging cloud upon the water. M ear the banks innumer
able flocks of ducks furrowed the stream in every direction. The
number of those domestic birds, all of the same size, excited my
curiosity. To my great astonishment, I learned that they were the
produce of eggs, hatched by men, who, for a small stipend, have the
patience, or rather laziness, to lemain constantly lying on the future
ducklings. For this purpose the eggs are stowed side by side in a
layer of ashes, so as to form an even surface, protected by a trellifl

APPENDIX. 363

frame, and covered thickly with wool or cotton. The whole appa
ratus is contained in a sort of truckle bed, slightly raised above the
floor of the close hut in which it is placed. Such is the sagacity of
this novel tribe of cluck hatchers that they can tell to a moment
when the shells are about to break ; then opening them with great
* great dexterity, they allow the y.oung broad to run to the river,
whence they return every evening with a more experienced guide to
floating cages, fitted with little drawbridges, which are raised every
morning, and let down again at night after the flocks have returned.
Indeed, the breeding ducks at Luzon, were they twice as numerous,
could never supply the enormous consumption of their offspring by
the inhabitants, who have a national relish for that kind of poultry
to the exclusion of all others.

After leaving Pasig we continued for some time to coast along
grassy banks well shaded by trees. Uneasy glances were cast on
us as we passed by buffaloes, lying listlessly on the sod awaiting the
hour of labour, while others, wallowing in the slimy water, indicated
their presence only by the loud snortings from their nostrils, which
alone appeared above the surface of the river.

The increasing rapidity of the current, patches of inundatedland,
and the distance of the rice plantations from the houses, soon ap
prised us that we were approaching the Laguna. We came up
with extensive fisheries. A quantity of long bamboos, half buried
in the slime, and bound together by ropes of Indian weed, rise
above the surface of the water, notwithstanding its great depth, like
partitions. These partitions form a narrow laybrinth, in which
the fish getting more and more entangled are ultimately taken in
nets placed at every outlet. These fisheries bring large revenues to
the proprietors who consequently pay a heavy duty, in consideration
of which the government overlooks the many injurious effects to
navigation, necessarily caused by such establishments. We, too, had
to encounter some of these inconveniences, but the magnificent view
of the lake extending before us quickly caused us to forget them.
The Laguna, of an irregular shape, may, according to the Spanish

SCJ: APPENDIX.

estimate, be about thirty leagues in ciicumference, and the general
depth varies from twenty-five to thirty feet. This body of fresh
water is supplied by a number of streams descending from the
higher levels, which are covered with sombre forests, and form, as
it were, the first steppe of those different chains of mountains which
extend to the interior of the island, and lose their summits in the
clouds. The side by which we entered is the only one where the
coast is low. It was then completely inundated by the overflow
of the lake during the late rains.

The dwelling to which we were directing our course was con
cealed from view by islands, we were therefore obliged to pass
through one of the deep and narrow channels between them ; but
a strong head wind springing up, our little craft could make no way,
and our sailors were completely worn out with fatigue. It was four
o'clock : all our efforts to proceed just then would have been vain.
We landed accordingly at a point that jutted into the strait, and
took refuge in the hut of a poor fisherman, the only inhabitant per
haps of this little desert peninsula. This poor and unfortunate
native of Luzon, cut off" from all human society, dependant for
support only on his own industry, nevertheless kuew how to read
and write ; and this in a country reduced by its masters to the
lowest stage of ignorance and degradation. How far does not such
a fact as this go to redeem the charges made against the monks of
Luzon.

The part of the coast on which we had landed is mountainous,
steep, thickly wooded, and impassible, except to wild boars; it
presents a reef of rocks extending to the bank, and terminating in
a sheer precipice ; but all this side of the lake is by no means of
such difficult access. Before entering the little strait we had passed
a beautiful village, situated on the extremity of a plain bounded
by mountains.

Night was approaching, and we had as yet made but half our
journey. The breeze, instead of lulling, which is usually the case
before sunset, had increased; on the other hand, the chill which wa

APPENDIX. 865

began to feel, together with the clouds of mosquitoes, promised un
favourably for a night of repose ; all these powerful considerations,
nnd the rest that our Tagals had enjoyed, decided us to proceed at
all hazards. Several times during the- remainder of the passage
my travelling companions were alarmed by the swell of the lake
breaking, from time to time, over our heavily laden boats, by tho
violence of the wind and the intense darkness. It was eleven
o'clock at night before we reached our destination, drenched, be-
immbcd, and starving; but a kind reception, an excellent supper,
nnd the considerate attentions of our hosts, followed by a good
night's rest, effectually revived and cheered us.

The proprietor of the residence where I met with such warm
hospitality had left France in 1814. The signal services rendered
by him to the colony during the terrible ravages of the cholera,
his worthy character and amiable disposition, had won him the
esteem and goodwill of the principal authorities of Manilla, and
the permission, until then steadily refused, even to Spaniards, to
possess and cultivate land on the banks of the Laguna. Great
energy and perseverance were requisite to carry out, or even to
atterr.pt, such a difficult task. These rare qualities were united in
our fellow-countryman with varied information and some know
ledge of agriculture. He gave up a tranquil and easy life, and
with his wife, a pretty Spaniard, belonging to one of the first
families of the colony, he came to found, in a wild and almost un
inhabited country, an establishment which, by its astonishing
progress and the happy effect of example, has taught the Spaniards
the value of these hitherto reglected lands, and has thus opened to
the colony a new source of prosperity.

I soon rallied my spirits at this delightful spot after the recent
depression of Manilla ; I even forgot its annoyances, and rejoiced
in the freedom which the affectionate attention of my hosts enabled
me to indulge. Each day brought some new diversion. Some
times we set out early in the morning on a sporting excursion,
our retinue consisting of nine huntsmen, many of whom, I admit,

866 APPENDIX.

owed this title chiefly to the fact of their carrying a gun. Our
accoutrements were all in keeping with the wild state of the country.
They consisted of, for head gear the salacote, equally effective
against sun and rain, cloth jackets, ample and stout trousers, and
thick-soled shoes. We took with us twenty dogs, in rather poor
condition and of different breeds, but staunch veterans, up to any
fatigue, and the terror of stags and wild boars ; they could scarcely
be kept in order by several pikemen acting as whippers-in. Lastly
came sundry led horses, a resource in case of need for the laggards,
and the whole assemblage, collected by appointment under a huge
tree, till then standing in utter solitude, formed a " meet " inde
scribably novel, animated, and picturesque.

The hunt started in the direction of a lofty hill, covered towards
its summit with long grass, and thickly wooded at the sides. We
wound slowly up the acclivity by a scarcely preceptible path : the
pikemen took the lead. Nets to insnare the game were placed at
every pass. Presently the hounds were heard to give tongue in
the distance, and the increasing animation of their cry, which every
moment became more distinct, proved them to bo on the true
scent. At length we reached the hunting ground. The post as
signed to me was to watch the nets and the pikemen placed at in
tervals to force the stags to our side. Three of these fine animals
had just passed me, so rapidly that I had scarcely time to notice
them, and I was in the act of lamenting my want of promptness,
when a shot, followed by triumphant shouts, went off at a few
paces from me. My host, an expert and indefatigable sportsman,
had struck the animal as it was bounding over a marsh, and about
to plunge into the thicket. Some of the hounds were already
closing round the expiring prey, with flashing eyes and jaws in
flamed and distended, as if devouring by anticipation the promised
reward of their toil. The entrails of the victim, thrown to them by
a pikeman, were demolished in an instant. The body, slung across
a horse, was carried home in triumph, to make its appearance at
supper.

APPENDIX. 307

The concluding part of the sport was not so successful as might
have been expected from this brilliant debut. The game took
refuge amid the steep acclivities, where the dogs alone could follow
it. We continued, however, to ascend by a circuitous path, and at
length, after having made our way through a quantity of long,
tough, and matted grass, we arrived at the summit of a hill, whence
we had a magnificent prospect of the lake. The weather was serene ;
the water, like a sheet of glass, reflected the mid-day rays of the
sun, and threw a gorgeous light upon the distant pile of mountains.
This majestic spectacle struck me as contrasting sadly with the
insignificant works of man, of which we recognised the feeble
effects on the banks of the lake, forming an almost imperceptible
speck in the midst of the rich vegetation so lavishly spread around
by uncultivated nature. The chain of islands stretching across
the Laguna seemed to lie at our feet. My attention was first at
tracted to the smallest of these islets ; it is round, and contains the
crater of an extinct volcano, into which the sea has found a passage,
and which abounds in fish as well as crocodiles of an enormous
size. The- curious spot awakens superstitious terror in the minds
of the Tagals, who have a strong repugnance to accompany Euro
pean thither.

Deeply intent upon the magnificent and varied scene before me,
I quietly enjoyed the luxury of solitude, the more so that the
audible cries of the huntsmen, and the barking of the dogs, secured
me from all apprehension of being molested by any of the ferocious
animals that infest the country. But when the chase sped down
the plains, which all consisted of marsh and jungle, my fears of
the wild buffaloes made me anxious to regain the protection of the
hunters. This animal, so gentle and tractable when domesticated,
is terrible in its untamed state; the sight of man renders it fu
rious, its eyes glare, its nostrils dilate and seem to breathe flame, its
unwieldy bulk becomes wonderfully active in the pursuit of its
enemy. Nothing can stop its headlong course towards the unlucky
sportsman, whose ill-aimed shot has missed or only slightly wounded

868 APPENDIX.

it. The infuriated beast gores him with long and sharp horns ; or
should the aggressor seek to escape its vengeance by climbing up a
tree, the animal constantly keeps guard below, gloating on tho
view of its prisoner, until compelled by hunger to depart. A Tagal,
from the village of Jala- Jala, engaged in cutting wood, had the good
fortune to escape in this manner from an enormous buffalo that
attacked him : finding pasturage in the vicinity, the buffalo never
for an instant lost sight of the tree in which the woodcutter was
concealed ; the poor fellow carried no arms except the long knife
that the natives always wear in their girdle, and which they handle
very expertly. Impelled by hunger he at last descended from the
tree, but only to be more vigorously pursued than before. Juet,
however, as the terrible horns were withdrawn for an instant to
gore him, he contrived to seize hold of the buffalo's tail with his
left hand, whilst with his right he stabbed him repeatedly with his
knife. The astonished animal darted off like an arrow, but being
soon exhausted by loss of blood he slackened his pace, and fell
dead by the side of tho Tagal, who was himself a mass of wounds
blood, and mire.

At these hunting parties I was more a spectator than an actor,
but exercise restored my health, and when I regaled myself at
dinner on the venison or the wild boar, it mattered little to me
that they had fallen by a more practised hand.

Shortly before sunset we generally commenced another less
fatiguing chase, and one better suited to my sporting talents. It
was that of a specious of large, cunning, and mischievous ape,
which made great havoc in the sugar cane and rice plantations.
These exploits bring it into great odium with the natives, and
particularly the children, who are obliged to mount guard day and
night to protect the crops from the ravages of the enemy. Guided
by these willing auxiliaries, and by dogs trained to this novel
species of warfare, we easily tracked these apes to their strong
holds, then stratagems, and more frequently their nimbleness,
baffled our skill; but in the long run, by blockading some isolated

APPENDIX. 3G9

troc, where a number of them had taken refuge, they were brought
down by a discharge of musketry, and bit the dust with loud cries
of rage and despair. Their remains were then ornamentally sus
pended on the branches of some tree near the scene of their depre
dations. These animals are amazingly strong, they make enormous
springs when pursued, and can be stopped only by a mortal wound ;
they are no less destructive than fierce, and their teeth are not less
formidable than those of beasts of prey.

In the evenings we used to assemble round a table, waiting for
supper and listening to the gossip of the village. A little scandal
often crept into the conversation, and jokes would pass round at
the expense of the Cure, a robust, jovial, arid merry Tagal, whose
breviary was the sum total of his knowledge, but who, nevertheless,
had some natural talent and a great desire for instruction. Not
over strict in his own practice, he cordially detested the monks,
and had no mercy on his parishoners who were defaulters at tho
r.oly table or the confessional, the dues from these sources form
ing the chief part of his revenues. He was unmercifully rallied
on the score of a new niece, who, as well as her intended, was,
according to the usual custom, lodged at the presbytery, until such
time as her parent should consent to the marriage, which ceremony
was to bring a handsome fee to the good Padre Miguel.

The demoralising tendency of this custom in favour of an ui>
scrupulous clergy is obvious ; still it goes far to prove their influence
over a population, whose distrustful and jealous character they
have thus been able to mould to their wishes.

Sometimes the conversation took a more serious, though to me
a no less interesting turn. Explanations were given of the system
adopted to maintain order in the populous districts destitute of
regular troops, by means of an organised militia, upon which
subject our host, who was captain of the corps stationed at Laguna,
gave me detailed information, which led me to conclude that tho
Spanish, or rather monastic government, warned by past experience
had taken duo precautions against a new attack of Europeans.

370 APPENDIX.

The point where the peninsula of Jala-Jala is connected with
the mainland, by mountains rising gradually to a considerable
elevation, is remarkable for many picturesque sites. To that quarter
therefore, we often directed our morning walks. The coast abounds
in rice plantations, through which we were obliged to pass, along
embankments constructed for the purpose of irrigation. The ground,
moistened by previous rain, gave way beneath our weight, and wo
sank knee deep in the mud; but our good humour and perseve
rance were unconquerable, and, indulging at each other's expense
the merriment caused by our begrimed condition, we rapidly scaled
the mountain.

Our course was guided by the distant roar of the splendid cas
cade to which we were proceeding. The bed of the torrent, strewn
with gigantic rocks, among which the water seethed and bubbled as
it clashed towards the lake, was our only path, but of a break-neck
character at every step. Nothing however could check us, and the
whole party reached the spot without mishap. An admirable scene
of savage grandeur then presented itself. From towering rocks,
crowned as with a canopy of majestic trees, monster tendrils of the
liana hung in immense festoons, forming a vast and gloomy vault,
deepened to sepulchral darkness by a cloudy sky. Here the torrent,
swollen by long rains, dashed with a stunning noise down the pre
cipitous cliffs, and, bounding over the huge stones piled below,
expanded into a beautiful sheet of foam, and sped its impetuous
course through the ravines. All animals seemed to have fled this
spot, and its gloom and isolation inspired an involuntary emotion
of fear. Neither the song of birds, nor the hum of insects was to
be heard ; our sounds alone mingled with the monotonous sound of
the water-fall. Some lugubrious bats, the only tenants of this soli
tude, emerged from the clefts of the rocks, and wheeled in circles
above us, yet the 'report of a gun seemed to cause them no ad
ditional alarm. At length, after much fatigue and some risk, wo
reached the summit of the cascade, by means of the branches of the
liana, one of which, breaking in my hand, left me on a rugged and

APPENDIX 871

slippery rock. I was in a groat dilemma, and, until rescued by my
friends, bad borrible misgivings tbat my untimely fato would add a
tragical celebrity to the cascade*of Jala-Jala.

After enjoying for a considerate time this new and picturesque
scene, we quitted tile waterfall and pushed on through the wood to
inspect some of the objects of curiosity, — one of them, a brook
of singularly limpid water, acrid 1o tho taste, and depositing j
a slight sediment, resembling in colour oxide of copper. It
may, perhaps, have washed in its course some veins of that metal.
The natives do not consider it unwholesome, yet they rarely drink
it. I thought the taste disagreable, and for some time after
drinking it my mouth and throat felt unusually parched. I re
marked in these mountains the liane da voyageur, so common in the
forests of America ; its long tendrils, covered with brown fibrous
and thick bark, fell in festoons from the apex of a large tree, that
seemed bending under their weighty net- work. From the stem that
I cut, a few feet above the ground, flowed, through large pores of
greyish and well-compacted pulp, a stream of fresh clear water,
which had no perceptible odour nor any nauseous taste. Thus has
all-provident Nature placed this plant in the burning climate of
the New World, and of the Asiatic Archipelago, as an immediate
resource to those unfortunate human beings whose lot it is to
traverse the vast forests of these regions.

Surrounded by such delightful amusements, and treated with the
kindest attention by my host and charming family, I felt the days
glide away too rapidly. My health was perfectly restored. The
north-east monsoon was about to set in, and the fine season had com
menced. I was therefore compelled to resign the delights of so
soothing a mode of life, and to return to Manilla, there to make
arrangements for quitting Luzon. I took leave with real regret, and
the kind concern testified by M. de La Gironiere and his whole
family at my departure, increased my earnest desire to meet them
again at some future period.

TESTIMONY OF M. MALLAT.

SPEAKING of Jala-Jala, M. Mallat, a French geographer, and
author of a work on the Philippines, says : — " The neighbourhood
of the lake abounds in every kind of game, and the lake itself is
covered with wild-fowl. The property of Jala-Jala, which may be
looked upon as a kind of model farm, contains vast woods, where
the stag and the wild-boar are hunted. On all sides horses and
oxen are met with, which the proprietor sells to the dealers from.
Manilla.

" The lake abounds with fish, and daily supplies the market of
Manilla. Its borders are inhabited by caymans, or crocodiles,
amongst which some enormous specimens are to be met with;
as, for example, the monster that one day M. de La Gironiere,
the intrepid occupant of Jala-Jala, took by nets and killed. It
is in the narrows of Quinabutasan that these animals mostly
abound, but they are not the only predatoiy creatures encountered
upon the lake, which is infested by pirogues worked by piratical
robbers."

THE END.

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